thanks for the info. at least i know what i can use to remove it then. i did some more research and it seems the gun forums don't like the rustoleum bbq paint as it flakes/wipes off when they oil the gun. i'm just going to keep it as it...just want to put the motor in and finish the swap. in the future, i may redo it and even attempt to clean up the wiring once i figure out what i can keep/remove/etc.

i mated the REW motor and TII tranny today. also modified the GSL-SE transmission brace so it will mount up to the TII tranny (S4 version). hopefully when i go to install it, it all lines up.

 

alright, i attempted to put the REW in. all was going too good, had no issues doing it myself w/o any help...BUT i ran into an issue which doogy2 had tried to point out to me...

so it's not a matter of the front mount being the issue (which i read this as the front brace and motor mounts), it's the front subframe. the actuator for the twins hit it. from the passenger side mounting hole, a cylindrical notch needs to be done to the subframe starting 2 inches behind the hole towards the back and 2 inches down in order for the actuator to fit.



not quite sure what to do now. i do have a good 110v mig which i bought to learn how to weld (haven't touched it and have zero experience) items like the exhaust which are non-structural welds but i'm not sure about modifying the front subframe without any welding experience. any ideas anyone?

the easiest thing to do is to go single but that costs more $ which i was not planning on spending, especially during the holidays.

 

ok, quick look at the diagrams for simplifying the vacuum lines, i noticed that going non-sequential removes the actuator. my initial plan was to go simplified sequential but i may have to changed it to non-sequential now...

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-turbo-749702/

 

CUT IT! Just do a little practice on some random metal first. Once you get some decent penetration, then do the subframe. The reason I say this is because the sequential system is awesome! I've driven an FD with & without sequential, and for me, I prefer sequential, hands down. The early boost response is really spectacular, I don't think you'd regret it. But at the end of the day, 'tis your call. After all, you're the one who has to do the work, lol.

 

Or, take careful measurements and take to someone that can cut it and weld it for you. Shouldn't be too expensive.

 

thanks guys, here's my thinking...

i know i can be a pretty good welder once i start using it but my biggest issue is time. if i do chose to modify the subframe, i can guarantee you that this project would take forever to finish as i would want to do it myself and learn in the process. going non-sequential takes maybe 2-3 days at the most (reading the instructions by Rotary Resurrection: Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.

i know about the difference between sequential and non. have driven a proper sequential setup but not a non-sequential but i'm not too concerned about losing a little low end torque...i can overcome some of the downsides by shifting a little higher in the rpm's. so right now, i'm thinking non-sequential.

 

non-sequential mod done. rats nest has been eliminated along w/ the all the solenoids. all that's left under the intake are just wires (most of which can be removed as well but it's staying there until i get the confidence to tackle the wiring).



it's raining down here currently and will be for the next 2 days as well so installing the motor will have to wait.

 

Yes crazy that wat I ment I to the cross member pass side. Myn hit the actual mount that bolted to the front cover

 

Ah, ic. Not a huge loss...I just like the sequentialness. Will still be loads of fun obviously. Hopefully you get her running soon!!

 

motor is in!!! scratched the firewall a little cause i could not get the rear to level out...nothing a little more paint can't fix though. no clearance issues anywhere.











gotta grab the downpipe from the shed and see if that's going to be a problem. i sure hope not...

 

Looks great!!

 

thanks steve.

was too impatient to wait for the rain to stop so got a little wet but grabbed the downpipe. no clearance issues!


the easiest part is done (in my eyes). need to figure out how i'm going to vmount the radiator and intercooler now as well as take an existing exhaust which I picked up from a 1st gen race car and modify it to fit. with this work, it gave me an excuse to buy the welder i mentioned earlier...always wanted to learn how to weld so wish me luck!

 

Do you think the "middle" of the trans/engine will have a substantial amount of stress? It seems that you relocated the fd motor mounts to the front of the engine? And I'm assuming the trans mount are in stock location of the trans?

If what I see is actually correct, won't that the middle to be stressed like crazy potentially leading to problems?

I've never owned an fb or know many things about fbs (as they are not my cup of tea), but this just seems like it'll be a problem down the road....

 

i've never seem or read anyone having issues w/ front mounting any motor. those crazy ausies and puerto ricans do it all the time with their high power builds, and 20b's can be done similarly so i don't think i will have any issues...knock on wood.

 

I second this.
I'd be more worried about the rear diff, it's not going to last to long above 300hp and aggressive driving.

.

 

don't jinx me steve...lol. i am not planning on doing anything to the rear end for now.

decided not to mess with the crossbar on the front of the chassis. again, not wanting to do any welding to structural elements. that being said, no way a FD radiator will not fit if wanting to vmount it, there just isn't enough room. have the Fluidyne up for sale now and ordered a dual pass aluminum radiator.

 

Looking good your. Catching up to me now lol I'm just messing with wheels and stuff now we Deff have more room in the back or bigger trying to figure 17x 12. Or bigger

 

first time welding!!! the flange doesn't look pretty cause i was messing with the settings due to the different metal thicknesses but the pipe to pipe weld came out pretty good.




exhaust is almost done but i do need to order a 2 bolt 3in flange as i could not find it locally anywhere.

 

Dang! Looks good! What kind of welder setup did you use. Looks a lot better than my first welds!

 

it's a miller 135 using .24 wire and argon/co2 mix. i got it from craigslist last year for terrific deal which included brand new welder (sat in his closet for years), full tank, small spool of wire, gloves, helmet, cart, and table...everything i needed to weld.

 

That's awesome! You did a great job Craaaazy.

 

thanks woodmv. figure if i ever sell it, i can ask more than what i paid for it.

ordered the flange i needed. also received the radiator today...need to figure out if it'll fit the way i have it in my head.

 

No jinx, just don't do any hard launches and she'll last a while

Keep up the good job on the build!

 

is the LSD the weak link or the axles? i thought it was the axles...