85 Montego Blue Build
#26
bcrotary.
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Abbotsford, British Columbia
Posts: 513
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I think it's safe to say you picked the right color. Big thumbs up here. Glad the interior's getting some attention too, that part normally gets looked over. Looking forward to the progress.
#27
Thanks guys ^. I agree with the interior comment. I have a thing about really sweet interiors. If I can help it I want to try to modernize it as much as possible without crossing into that cheesy rice spectrum we all despise. With that being said I believe changing everything to a black interior, super white LED conversion for the entirety of the interior lighting, and ofcourse the seats posted above.
I forgot in my initial build thread post I had no definite plan for power. Since then I have acquired a large streetport S5 motor with 500 miles on it.
I also bought a Dellorto 48mm. I need a manifold however. So I did some scrounging around and found that our old buddy Rotary Shack sells a polished 1 piece manifold that will look great with the all black and polished engine bay scheme. It will also have superior flow to the two piece that utilizes the stock LIM.
I am at crossroads with my ignition setup though. I could go direct fire, but I think running blaster 2 coils would be fine and maybe a 6al box for the leading.
I forgot in my initial build thread post I had no definite plan for power. Since then I have acquired a large streetport S5 motor with 500 miles on it.
I also bought a Dellorto 48mm. I need a manifold however. So I did some scrounging around and found that our old buddy Rotary Shack sells a polished 1 piece manifold that will look great with the all black and polished engine bay scheme. It will also have superior flow to the two piece that utilizes the stock LIM.
I am at crossroads with my ignition setup though. I could go direct fire, but I think running blaster 2 coils would be fine and maybe a 6al box for the leading.
#29
Update
I got my interior HVAC components in and added new foam to the contact points between the 3 for a good seal.
Power window conversion
I decided ultimately for the modernized theme of the car I really should install the power windows from my parts car. So far the wiring is complete and the passenger side is installed. I have a little DIY for those who also would also like to get their hands on the components.
As far as the parts list goes for the conversion, there is less to it than I thought. Our Fbs are for the most part prewired for power mirrors and windows to an extent. The harness for each side runs up to the edge of the dash on either side right by the speakers. It will have two wires. Red and Green. If you have a parts car with power windows or looking to buy whats needed I recommend asking for jumper harness between the motor and the interior for each side. You will also need the harness that runs underneath the drivers side seat. All Fbs have one there already but are missing the heavier gauge wiring up to the switch on the center console as pictured here.
This harness is only about 2 foot long. Our FBs are wired up to that point for the switch.
As for hardware. You only really need the the motor and the rail mechanism and a few more screws that hold it all in place. It isn't too difficult to figure out. I highly suggest greasing every contact point that moves on the rail bracketing. We all know how FB power windows usually work. For installing, the trick is to pull the mechanism down to the positioning it would be in if the window were down and have a buddy attach the motor to the bracketing to hold it down. If you let go or slip, it will hurt, a lot.Once the 3 screws are bolted on, holding the motor to the bracketing, you can work it up into the bigger hole in the door. When bolted in the gear position should look similar to this.
Here is a picture of all the mounting points for the 10mm screws. The two arrows are for the pivot arm on the bracket you will see that clearly has places for two screws.
Once this is all bolted in, all that is left to do is install the glass. For god sakes dont break one of those plastic tabs like I did. Luckily I got one off the parts car to pop out and replaced. This is the front pointing point for the glass.
If I had the battery and wiring finished Id show a video of it working. But that's all for now folks !
I got my interior HVAC components in and added new foam to the contact points between the 3 for a good seal.
Power window conversion
I decided ultimately for the modernized theme of the car I really should install the power windows from my parts car. So far the wiring is complete and the passenger side is installed. I have a little DIY for those who also would also like to get their hands on the components.
As far as the parts list goes for the conversion, there is less to it than I thought. Our Fbs are for the most part prewired for power mirrors and windows to an extent. The harness for each side runs up to the edge of the dash on either side right by the speakers. It will have two wires. Red and Green. If you have a parts car with power windows or looking to buy whats needed I recommend asking for jumper harness between the motor and the interior for each side. You will also need the harness that runs underneath the drivers side seat. All Fbs have one there already but are missing the heavier gauge wiring up to the switch on the center console as pictured here.
This harness is only about 2 foot long. Our FBs are wired up to that point for the switch.
As for hardware. You only really need the the motor and the rail mechanism and a few more screws that hold it all in place. It isn't too difficult to figure out. I highly suggest greasing every contact point that moves on the rail bracketing. We all know how FB power windows usually work. For installing, the trick is to pull the mechanism down to the positioning it would be in if the window were down and have a buddy attach the motor to the bracketing to hold it down. If you let go or slip, it will hurt, a lot.Once the 3 screws are bolted on, holding the motor to the bracketing, you can work it up into the bigger hole in the door. When bolted in the gear position should look similar to this.
Here is a picture of all the mounting points for the 10mm screws. The two arrows are for the pivot arm on the bracket you will see that clearly has places for two screws.
Once this is all bolted in, all that is left to do is install the glass. For god sakes dont break one of those plastic tabs like I did. Luckily I got one off the parts car to pop out and replaced. This is the front pointing point for the glass.
If I had the battery and wiring finished Id show a video of it working. But that's all for now folks !
Last edited by FCinWV; 05-21-13 at 07:12 AM.
#31
Dash is in !! Thanks to my handy dandy 1/4" Snap on drill it went in fast. Would have done more today but I start a new job tomorrow.
I'm thinking of replacing the Quarts clock in the center of the dash but Im not sure what to put in its place. Ideas on something more modern or functionally sweet would be great.
I'm thinking of replacing the Quarts clock in the center of the dash but Im not sure what to put in its place. Ideas on something more modern or functionally sweet would be great.
#38
Ah man. Right now i cant paint someone elses car. It would take me a really really long time. I work 6 days a week on a pipeline. Then i have a fb,fc, and fd thats all in build mode. If you found a place to shoot it, I could come shoot it on a sunday but thats about it.
#40
Dash Revamped / Dash Wiring / Carpet
As of now I have the dash wiring complete and harnesses in the correct places. It it took me a little longer because I had to swap the center console lid hinge and placed the air vent decals back after refinishing the dash. The front carpet seems to fit perfectly. I am going to re staple the long plastic hangers that clip under the door sill.
I may also use a wet shot of nitrous just for the fun of it. I know I know. But for those who are actually curious about it, I'm setting my system up on a window switch method. Meaning one switch to engage the system and it will spray between a determined rpm range. My switch to engage will not be some goofy battle switch. It will be a discrete recessed button where the fade and balance joystick was, just behind the window switches.
As of now I have the dash wiring complete and harnesses in the correct places. It it took me a little longer because I had to swap the center console lid hinge and placed the air vent decals back after refinishing the dash. The front carpet seems to fit perfectly. I am going to re staple the long plastic hangers that clip under the door sill.
I may also use a wet shot of nitrous just for the fun of it. I know I know. But for those who are actually curious about it, I'm setting my system up on a window switch method. Meaning one switch to engage the system and it will spray between a determined rpm range. My switch to engage will not be some goofy battle switch. It will be a discrete recessed button where the fade and balance joystick was, just behind the window switches.
#42
Looks great! I found this thread at random at the perfect time, too. I have acquired all pieces for a power window conversion and am about to start. My dash will also be replaced. Is dash replacement all that difficult? Any tips?
#43
Other than that its pretty straight forward.
#44
Weber 48/ 1 piece manifold/ Mesh Filters
Just received the Weber 48 and one piece manifold from papsmagu. Lovin it. I think it will really make the engine bay pop. He also sent mesh filters which I will be using as well.
Im still debating on what to do with the engine cosmetically. I can take the time to polish the housings and spray everything else black OR I can spray the whole engine black and just have "MAZDA" polished on the housings.
I feel like its going to be a pain in the *** to constantly polish the housings. Not too sure how a whole black engine would look either though..... suggestions and guidance appreciated.
PICS !
Nitrous System Design Layout and switch placement
I have decided on the wet shot kit I will use with a RPM window switch.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ed...a/instructions
I will be running a 75 shot. I plan to tap the one piece manifold 2 inches below the carb flange and installing 2 Victor foggers. 1 per barrel. I will also plumb them in with black AN fittings and stainless hard line.
This is where the power for the window switch will be. Just had a local shop make the label for me. haha. I know. Cheesy, but I like it.
Thats all for now. I will update with more progress soon.
Just received the Weber 48 and one piece manifold from papsmagu. Lovin it. I think it will really make the engine bay pop. He also sent mesh filters which I will be using as well.
Im still debating on what to do with the engine cosmetically. I can take the time to polish the housings and spray everything else black OR I can spray the whole engine black and just have "MAZDA" polished on the housings.
I feel like its going to be a pain in the *** to constantly polish the housings. Not too sure how a whole black engine would look either though..... suggestions and guidance appreciated.
PICS !
Nitrous System Design Layout and switch placement
I have decided on the wet shot kit I will use with a RPM window switch.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ed...a/instructions
I will be running a 75 shot. I plan to tap the one piece manifold 2 inches below the carb flange and installing 2 Victor foggers. 1 per barrel. I will also plumb them in with black AN fittings and stainless hard line.
This is where the power for the window switch will be. Just had a local shop make the label for me. haha. I know. Cheesy, but I like it.
Thats all for now. I will update with more progress soon.
Last edited by FCinWV; 07-05-13 at 06:40 PM.
#47
A/C Condenser
Installed the consdenser and bracketing today. I screwed up and put the base model a/c unit in the dash and now the lower fitting doesnt match the GSL hose. Not too big of a deal since I do have the other one. Just have to swap them out. I also need a GSL-SE compressor bracket to mate the 12a compressor to the 13B block. I posted a WTB.
Thats about it today. I'm refinishing the GSL master cylinder now to utilize rear disk brakes. I will install it then the headlight motors next most likely.
Installed the consdenser and bracketing today. I screwed up and put the base model a/c unit in the dash and now the lower fitting doesnt match the GSL hose. Not too big of a deal since I do have the other one. Just have to swap them out. I also need a GSL-SE compressor bracket to mate the 12a compressor to the 13B block. I posted a WTB.
Thats about it today. I'm refinishing the GSL master cylinder now to utilize rear disk brakes. I will install it then the headlight motors next most likely.