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Hello all:
I first posted on this site back in DEC, 2019 to introduce myself (https://www.rx7club.com/introduce-yo...-club-1140791/) with high hopes to get my 83 GSL back on the road soon thereafter. Less than a month later the world came to a complete stop, as I am sure ALL of you know, due to COVID-19. As unfortunate as this event has been for the world (millions of people dead, the world economy is trying to recover and many memories lost with our friends and family), I had to make "lemonade" out of the situation. I began my 2 year-COVID-19 journey to bring "Max" to life. After many significant delays on getting parts and a very, very steep learning curve, I have completed the best restoration I could do within my skills set and budget. Below is a very condensed picture diary of this project.
AE_Racer and mazdaerx713b provided some feedback on how/where to start: compression test of the engine. It sounded really rough...really rough
After much deliberation, I decided that the engine needed to be rebuilt. I followed the "Mazda Engine Overhaul Criteria" book I found on this site to guide my decision
JUL.2020
The transmission needed new seals and fluid flush
The engine had about 2 mm of grime, oil, sand and who knows what else on it.
Once I had the engine on the stand and started to undo the cake layers, it became very clear that rebuilding the engine was the right decision -- just look at the rear rotor and rear housing :-( -- I was surprised to see that the center and rear irons were not damaged at all
JUL-AUG.2020:
Once I had my shopping list ready and began my search for parts. There wasn't much out there.
I finally came across an auction on Ebay of a complete 1983 12A engine an hr away from where I live. So, I contacted the seller and he offered to let me see the engine before purchasing. I went over to his garage (yes, I was wearing a mask) to inspect the engine and decided to purchase it - I did some rough measurements of all the parts before cash was exchanged. He added a few other items to sweeten the deal: carb rebuild kit, fusible links and other miscellaneous parts
Once I got all the parts back to my house, I began the very time- consuming task of ensuring all the parts met the Mazda spec tolerances.
Now that I was happy with all the engine parts being within spec, I started the cleaning, sand blasting and painting process
I chose high heat paint: metal gray and Mazda blue (not an actual color, but the closest I can get to the air horn blue)
NOV.2020:
With all the engine parts ready for assembly put aside, I rebuilt the carburetor and cleaned the engine bay the best I could while I waited for many parts to come - the supply chain really slowed down my progress...weeks and weeks of waiting
Last edited by luv2rdtrip; 03-12-22 at 02:41 PM.
Reason: repeated comment
Yes, it took me about two months to get it put together as I was being very **** about every step - this is not my field of expertise, so I wanted to get it right the first time - this project is not cheap
Things that are new - mostly from Atkins:
rebuild engine seal kit
apex seals springs, corner springs/seals and side pieces
side springs & seals
oil rings
water pump and thermostat
belts
NGK spark plugs and wires
Measuring the end play Engine ready to go back in Engine going back in the car
transmission dust boot, release bearing and front/read seals
I checked the compression in both rotors with the "RotaryCompressionTester" prior to first start up:
Front Rotor = 108-110-112
Rear Rotor = 110-112-114
Since both rotors compressed at above ~110 (I ran the test several times and achieved consistent readings) I finished putting the rest of the engine components to get the car started
Added some fuel to the tank, sprayed a little starter fluid in the carb, closed my eyes and turned the key...it took a few tries, but on the 5th try, the car came back to life and idled at about 800 RPM after the choke released
I can't tell you how wide my smile was that night!!!
MAR.2021:
Now that I knew the car started and the engine ran pretty well, it was time to spend some more cash in phase -2 of the rebuild:
suspension
new exhaust system from Racing Beat - it took 7 weeks for the entire system + springs to arrive -- supply chain issues
interior
APR-MAY.2021:
I ordered every single piece of the suspension (front & rear) and changed it all:
bushings
springs - all 4 corners
struts/shocks
and while I was at it, I also changed:
brake rotors/pads/fluid
rebuilt all 4x calipers
wheel bearings
tie rods
JUN-AUG.2021:
While doing the suspension, I noticed two critical parts of the rear that seemed to have an excessive amount of rust. It turns out that the car had what I have seen in several places on this site referred to as: "the rust of death"
The significant amount of rust is located in the rear wheel wells where the upper arms attach to the frame. I really thought this was the end of my journey until a US Marine friend of mine (OORAH!!!) said he could help me fix it. He gave me a shopping list and he got to cutting, and molding and fabricating and welding...and I was back on track! Thanks again Chuck!
Once all the welding was done, I used 3M heavy-bodied seam sealer, rustproofed and painted black. I think it came out pretty good...
Driver side exterior Pass side interior Driver side finished Pass Side Exterior Drive Side interior Pass side finished
Since I had to take most of the carpet off to address the rust, I decided to get new carpeting and add some sound deadening/insulation to the interior - I was surprised how well it works!
I also took the window motors and mechanisms out to give them a good cleaning and add new grease to the gears. The motors work so much better and faster.
The Racing Beat exhaust system finally arrived and it was time to take the old system off
I followed all the RB instructions of how to remove the air pump and add the block off plates
Torqued everything to spec and started the car. Well, here is where all my problems began. I spent the next month or so trying to figure out why the car was now backfiring and I could not get it to idle right.
I finally reached out to a fellow Rx7 owner on this site (thank you Ralph!) and he has been very helpful in guiding me through some ways to fix the issue.
In trying to pin point the problem, I changed all of the vacuum lines in the rat’s nest and the carb. that did not help
I made sure the carb was nice and snug to the air intake. that did not help
I measured the fuel coming into the carb and I was only getting 300 cc/min - the spec is ~1200-1400 cc/min. So, this is something...
began inspecting the wiring to the fuel pump and I was getting 12 V at the pump. inspected that the lines were not clogged.
Changed the fuel filter AGAIN, as I had changed it a few months prior to starting the car after the engine rebuild.
Retested the fuel flow and it was now pumping 1000 cc/min. Better, but the right flow was not there yet. Since I had to change the filter 2x within a few engine starts, I decided to drop the tank and get it cleaned out and sealed.
When the tank came back, I also changed all the soft fuel lines
reinstalled the tank, put on another fuel filter (third in a few months), added 6 gallons to the tank and measured the fuel output again...still about ~1000 cc/min
I really did not want to take that fuel pump out again, but did it anyway. I gave it a good cleaning inside and out, rechecked the pump leads and at closer inspection, they looked a little "green". cleaned out the leads to make sure they are making good contact and retested the flow. That was the solution...the pump is now pushing ~1200 cc/min.
I put it all back and started the car. Same issues: backfiring, rough idle and stalling
I took some time off to think about the issues I was having with the car and finally decided to put the air pump back and all the other emissions crap and see if that would fix the issue
that, my friends, fixed the issue. The car started right away, idles at ~800 RPM, does not backfire and does not stall.
I took the car out for a test drive and the car drove pretty well. I did not push it past 3.5K RPM just to give it some break-in time.
FEB.2022:
The next item on the list is to buy new tires. I really want to get the Bridgestones with RWL, but we all know that is not going to happen.
I also need to register/insure the car, but I think I will wait until it gets warmer and there is no more salt on the streets. This car will never see rain or snow again as long as I own it.
As far as future projects for the car go:
a paint job - the paint looks good on pictures, but up close, you know it needs some love
LEDs all around - I feel like I need people to see me since this car is so small.
Last edited by luv2rdtrip; 03-13-22 at 02:29 PM.
Reason: Spelling
I did everything you've done.... except the engine rebuild and the sound deadening . .... currently working on get her started...... hopefully will be done next weekend....
Great build thread. I've been thinking about getting the sound deadening and your pics are inspirational.
Thank you!
I got the sound deadening from Amazon: KILMAT 50 mil for $62 for a 50 sqft box. I used about 1.5 boxes. Make sure you clean the surfaces well before putting the sheets on. Good luck!
Have enjoyed reading your build. Thanks for the motivation on my own. Wife got me to do a laundry room and bathroom remodel so the GSL-SE has been neglected in the garage. Inspired!!
Have enjoyed reading your build. Thanks for the motivation on my own. Wife got me to do a laundry room and bathroom remodel so the GSL-SE has been neglected in the garage. Inspired!!
Thank you! I have learned a lot from many contributors on this forum and wanted to give back with some of lessons learned.
I have put 100 or so *EASY* miles on the car since April 9th, 2022 and kept the car under 50 MPH. Last weekend I took it on the highway for the first time and the would not go over 65 MPH and wanted to stall at that speed. So, I would let off the accelerator pedal and the car would normalize. What could be making this happen? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
I could be totally off - but I would look at the secondaries to see of they are opening at higher throttle. I think they are opened with a link that's part of the mess at the rear of the carb - maybe that didn't get hooked up right?
03-12-22, 02:03 PM
