Inevitably, a four rotor is a four rotor. Its a four rotor so it's cool that it stands out, but I'd personally rather have a color scheme that flows better. That's just too random for me. Reardless, finding a buyer may not be difficult because it's such a rarity. That being said, that color scheme could definitely deter potential buyers, or be a haggling tool for them.

 

If you are going to sell it do regular colors. Keeping it i don't think colors matter, once all the parts are on it you won't see the engine anyway

 

Annnnnnd ALL day!! Not only is it a 4 rotor its got the best color scheme EVER! -I'm soOo F*cKin' sick & tired of the same old silver/black/grey **YAWN** engines!!!! THEY'RE THE HEART/SOUL OF THE CAR, DAMMIT!! GIVE IT SOME FLAVOR!!!

 

I think the question boils down to "Who wouldn't buy a four-rotor, regardless of colour?". Seriously. If someone came up to me and offered to sell me a properly-built, ported 4-rotor, I'm not going to look at it and go "I dunno... It's great and all but I just don't like the colour"

What I'm wondering though is how the hell you fit that into the car? I was looking at DivinDriver's pic and thinking about previous engine installs I've done, and I realized that it'd be a bitch to get into place. Can it actually go in from the top without a transmission, or would you need to get the car on a hoist, remove the front crossmember, lift it into place and build your crossmember/cradle then?

I'll be very interested to see how this thing goes in. I seriously wish I had one of these. I'd run it N/A with a dual carb setup, it would be simple, reliable, powerful and awesome!

Now that you've finished building the engine Jeff, you should make a summary post of all that went into making it. Sort of a point form "if you're even thinking of doing this, here's what it took and where I got everything" and maybe a ballpark total cost so that people know what they're getting into.

Aweseome Job Jeff. I'm super jealous of whoever gets this engine!

Jon

 

It goes in the car easily. I test fitted it in a first gen several years ago, back when it was just a mockup. You drop it down through the bay. No need to take the hood off. You leave the tranny in the stock position (couldn't do that if it was 13B based). The alt stays in the stock location but you use a short belt (30"). Also the dizzy cap needs to be a short points style. It's just to keep dust out as it's direct fire obviously.

The engine still needs work. The stationary gears need to be taken out and machined down because the slip-on journals are about 1mm too long. It leaves no room for the shaft to have any end play. I asked others with the 13B version and they had no problems. Weird. Also should get a hardened oil pump, but it's not needed for test running. If RPMs are kept at 7k or below, no need for hardened at all, as I'm going to use a 1:1 oil pump drive sprocket. Also still need to purchase an aluminum plate for the oil pan. Haven't done that yet.

I've had too many other things on my plate. I've got an engine install today (13B into REPU). Actually I've had to do various engine pulls/installs once a week for the past several weeks. After the install, I get to tear down the one I just pulled yesterday to confirm the full flow oil squirters in the R5 shaft are what was causing a low oil pressure issue at idle. Plus I can swap in stronger R5 side plates and do some exhaust port work to drive a turbo, so it's worth it, I think. Just gotta wait for nicer weather on the rebuild, but an install is strictly mechanical so I can do it as long as the engine crane hydraulic ram can handle the cold (and so can I).

By the way the Jeff Bruce 4 rotor shafts require oil squirters. I went with the small checkball style from early engines as they were designed for small oil pumps and usually have decent oil pressure despite the lower volume. That was the theory anyway. So maybe I don't need to drive the oil pump at 1:1, but the piece of mind factor is kicking in since there are twice as many bearing surfaces. Besides I already did the work to mod it. So if it fits with an FC chain and an R5 tensioner, I'm good to go.

 

amazing cant wait to see it when its done

 

keep it rainbow 70's all bout crazy colours etc suits it and who cares what the colour is its a 4 rotor based from 12a componets twin carbied side port awesome!!!!! love the build congrats on everything so far can wait to hear this animal going will be rev happy sound awesome :-) i want to build a 4rotor one day carbied n/a 26 tho hard to find 12a parts nos or mint now im trying tho haha

 

Where does these plates come from? Rather small ports on the outer, and the intermediate plate are big when worked on :-)

 

79 to 85 12A

 

i guess you sold this?? or is that another that was brought and is for sale

 

The owner decided to sell it.

 

Super cool looking build! Too bad you sold it, would have liked to see it in your car finished.

 

Why did you paint the housings grey again before selling? RBD was too cool
really…. If I ever find time ill make it rainbow again and peripheral ported with a pair of annular discharge IDA’s. Managed to find 4 new 12A hsgs and 4 new 83-85 rotors for it. Does one think the rotor gear will walk out at 9000 rpm because it has 3 less spring dowels compared to the usual s5 NA rotors used in a 13B PP? Thinking the shaft flex would be only be marginal compared to lets say a 12A or 13B because of the length and having twice the bearings..