1983 Mazda RX-7 GSL-SE
#1
1983 Mazda RX-7 GSL-SE
This project started as a 1983 RX-7 GSL with front end damage. The previous owner had full intention of repairing his RX7 .. however life happens and the vehicle sat in a garage (shed) for 17 years.
I acquired the car in the dead of winter and waited until the spring before removing the front bumper, front valance, headlights and other damaged parts. After weighing several options for what to do with this build .. I've decided to rebuild and convert this GSL into a GSL-SE.
After consulting with the owner of a local bodyshop who has previously built and raced RX7's, I started my search for the front end of an undamaged 81-85 RX7.
What I found was a rusted out 1984 GSL-SE that had been completely gutted and parted out with the exception of SE brakes and suspension. Despite the sorry looking condition of the car, this presented a win/win scenario. I've now got a solid front end needed for repair, as well as the SE brakes and suspension suitable for swapping over into my project car.
I posted some of these photos in another thread .. however I will include them here as well for members who want to follow along with this build.
The 1983 GSL Project Car (Blue) is already on the rack.
The 1984 GSL-SE Donor (Black) will never be road worthy again .. however it has helped to ensure that many other RX7’s will be able to live on.
After ensuring the front end had been pulled straight and square, the welds along the forward side of the shock towers were drilled out and the front end was removed. This will provide a great reference point to cut off the front end of the donor car.
Next week I will be working in the bodyshop removing the GSL-SE brakes, suspension, wiring harnesses, and anything else that might be needed for this project. I'm sure there will be some parts of value that other members might be interested in.
I acquired the car in the dead of winter and waited until the spring before removing the front bumper, front valance, headlights and other damaged parts. After weighing several options for what to do with this build .. I've decided to rebuild and convert this GSL into a GSL-SE.
After consulting with the owner of a local bodyshop who has previously built and raced RX7's, I started my search for the front end of an undamaged 81-85 RX7.
What I found was a rusted out 1984 GSL-SE that had been completely gutted and parted out with the exception of SE brakes and suspension. Despite the sorry looking condition of the car, this presented a win/win scenario. I've now got a solid front end needed for repair, as well as the SE brakes and suspension suitable for swapping over into my project car.
I posted some of these photos in another thread .. however I will include them here as well for members who want to follow along with this build.
The 1983 GSL Project Car (Blue) is already on the rack.
The 1984 GSL-SE Donor (Black) will never be road worthy again .. however it has helped to ensure that many other RX7’s will be able to live on.
After ensuring the front end had been pulled straight and square, the welds along the forward side of the shock towers were drilled out and the front end was removed. This will provide a great reference point to cut off the front end of the donor car.
Next week I will be working in the bodyshop removing the GSL-SE brakes, suspension, wiring harnesses, and anything else that might be needed for this project. I'm sure there will be some parts of value that other members might be interested in.
The following users liked this post:
mazdaverx713b (11-05-22)
The following users liked this post:
RX7_Renesis (11-05-22)
#3
Senior Member
Looking good.....
You won't need the wiring harness unless you are going to use the factory 13b from the GSL-SE.....
You won't need the wiring harness unless you are going to use the factory 13b from the GSL-SE.....
#4
Slow Car Fast
So many first gens have been sent to the crusher over the years over body damage, rust, or scrap value being worth more than the car (at the time). It is good to see another saved. I remember you were contemplating what engine and configuration to drop in it, what did you choose?
#5
So many first gens have been sent to the crusher over the years over body damage, rust, or scrap value being worth more than the car (at the time). It is good to see another saved. I remember you were contemplating what engine and configuration to drop in it, what did you choose?
I've got an original set of SE wheels. The donor car has SE suspension and brakes. So it only makes sense to use my 13B engine and turn this project car into a 1983 GSL-SE (hence the title).
A big shoutout to Joe Phillips (here in Canada) who use to build and race RX7's. Joe is one of the few experts in the bodyshop industry who didn't roll his eyes when I told him what my plans were.
The following users liked this post:
VA RX7 (11-05-22)
#6
Surgery on the front end of the donor car today.
The front end of the project car was cut off on the seamed edge ahead of the shock towers. The front end of the donor car will be placed on top of the shock towers, carefully positioned, and then cut and tack welded into place.
The lower frame rails are comprised of different layers (like an Ogre). The cut for each layer is staggered .. so when the various sections of the lower frame rail are lined up and welded, the final result should be stronger than if it was just a clean straight cut.
Take note of the lower frame rail on the project car where the steering connects on the right side. It is solid and rust free.
The passenger side door (LHD) of the donor car is in surprisingly good condition. Based on the condition of the underside of the donor car, I fully expected the doors to be totally rusted out and useless. Maybe they were replaced by the previous owner.
I will get the door listed in the NEW RX7 Marketplace.
The only other major component left on the front end of the donor car is the steering column and related steering system. Any thoughts of whether this is worth saving?
The front end of the project car was cut off on the seamed edge ahead of the shock towers. The front end of the donor car will be placed on top of the shock towers, carefully positioned, and then cut and tack welded into place.
The lower frame rails are comprised of different layers (like an Ogre). The cut for each layer is staggered .. so when the various sections of the lower frame rail are lined up and welded, the final result should be stronger than if it was just a clean straight cut.
Take note of the lower frame rail on the project car where the steering connects on the right side. It is solid and rust free.
The passenger side door (LHD) of the donor car is in surprisingly good condition. Based on the condition of the underside of the donor car, I fully expected the doors to be totally rusted out and useless. Maybe they were replaced by the previous owner.
I will get the door listed in the NEW RX7 Marketplace.
The only other major component left on the front end of the donor car is the steering column and related steering system. Any thoughts of whether this is worth saving?
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
You're always doing interesting stuff!
You should definitely hold onto the old steering bits from the donor car. I just installed the MTheory rack and pinion kit and it hurt me a little to cut the steering tube and shaft that came from the factory. The R+P payoff is huge and I'd not go back, but I would have rather cut a donor shaft and tube assembly, put the factory setup in the parts closet. But then I'm also a pack rat.
You should definitely hold onto the old steering bits from the donor car. I just installed the MTheory rack and pinion kit and it hurt me a little to cut the steering tube and shaft that came from the factory. The R+P payoff is huge and I'd not go back, but I would have rather cut a donor shaft and tube assembly, put the factory setup in the parts closet. But then I'm also a pack rat.
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#8
THX Toruki. The forums have been pretty quiet lately, so it's good to know that members are still active on the site. You never know if you are just posting into thin air.
That's a great suggestion! I was seriously looking at the MTheory rack and pinion kit .. however between US Dollar exchange rates and the increase in cost price, the rack will have to be put on hold for now.
I will read up this weekend on how to pull the steering column and tackle that project next week.
You should definitely hold onto the old steering bits from the donor car. I just installed the MTheory rack and pinion kit and it hurt me a little to cut the steering tube and shaft that came from the factory. The R+P payoff is huge and I'd not go back, but I would have rather cut a donor shaft and tube assembly, put the factory setup in the parts closet. But then I'm also a pack rat.
I will read up this weekend on how to pull the steering column and tackle that project next week.
#9
Yesterday I picked up my new Mariah Mode 4 front bumper/airdam. This is going to be a great addition to the project and eliminates the need to source a good condition front bumper cover and lower valance.
A huge thanks to Marc (eprx7) for the front bumper crash bar to replace the damaged one.
A huge thanks to Brandon from Rotary Engineering for supporting our community.
https://www.rotaryengineeringsb.com
A huge thanks to Marc (eprx7) for the front bumper crash bar to replace the damaged one.
A huge thanks to Brandon from Rotary Engineering for supporting our community.
https://www.rotaryengineeringsb.com
#10
Rotary Enthusiast
I agree, it's been quiter around here, but a few new folks are showing up. That's good to see.
Removing the steering assembly is super easy when the front of your car is missing :P
1. Remove the ptiman from the drag link
2. Remove the steering box bolts from the frame, might want to support it.
3. Inside the car, pull off the steering wheel (21mm (?) and you might need a puller), cowling (3 philips and a bolt), and combi switch (one screw strap), make a note of the plug positions, there are 2 that could swap physically
4. Remove the 2 12mm bolts holding the steering tube up into the dash (they are behind the wire harness runs along the tube
5. In the driver's seat pull the black tube toward yourself (maybe a friend pushes the box a bit from the other side) to give you room to work on removing the ignition key/lock assembly. The bolts that hold it are breakaway heads that have broken away upon installation. Just notch them with a dremel and use a flat blade to unscrew them. They are not that tight. I sued the same bolts on reassembly, but you could buy new ones. Remove the lock assembly.
6. The black steering tube just pulls out of the steering box, maybe silicone spray the firewall grommet. Don't be shy and just pull it off.
7. Then the whole box and shaft pull out from the front. Since you have no engine, frame, or hood in the way, super easy.
At this point you could adjust it and rebuild it on the bench, which is what the FSM wants you to do.
When reattaching the steering wheel, make note of the 2 holes on the back of the wheel and that it engages with the 2 pointed plastic posts on the combi assembly, those return the blinker and could easily break if you don't align when push the steering wheel onto the shaft spline.
Removing the steering assembly is super easy when the front of your car is missing :P
1. Remove the ptiman from the drag link
2. Remove the steering box bolts from the frame, might want to support it.
3. Inside the car, pull off the steering wheel (21mm (?) and you might need a puller), cowling (3 philips and a bolt), and combi switch (one screw strap), make a note of the plug positions, there are 2 that could swap physically
4. Remove the 2 12mm bolts holding the steering tube up into the dash (they are behind the wire harness runs along the tube
5. In the driver's seat pull the black tube toward yourself (maybe a friend pushes the box a bit from the other side) to give you room to work on removing the ignition key/lock assembly. The bolts that hold it are breakaway heads that have broken away upon installation. Just notch them with a dremel and use a flat blade to unscrew them. They are not that tight. I sued the same bolts on reassembly, but you could buy new ones. Remove the lock assembly.
6. The black steering tube just pulls out of the steering box, maybe silicone spray the firewall grommet. Don't be shy and just pull it off.
7. Then the whole box and shaft pull out from the front. Since you have no engine, frame, or hood in the way, super easy.
At this point you could adjust it and rebuild it on the bench, which is what the FSM wants you to do.
When reattaching the steering wheel, make note of the 2 holes on the back of the wheel and that it engages with the 2 pointed plastic posts on the combi assembly, those return the blinker and could easily break if you don't align when push the steering wheel onto the shaft spline.
The following 6 users liked this post by RX7_Renesis:
ATC529R (10-25-23),
diabolical1 (08-20-23),
mazdaverx713b (11-13-22),
Richard Miller (08-22-23),
Toruki (11-13-22),
and 1 others liked this post.
#13
My apologies for disappearing for several months. Getting old sucks (health issues).
My plans are to repaint my '83 GSL project car in Ceramic Metallic White (Mazda CX-3). I had one of my wheels refinished in blue as a sample.
I know colour and style are personal .. however I just thought I would share with the group to get some feedback.
My plans are to repaint my '83 GSL project car in Ceramic Metallic White (Mazda CX-3). I had one of my wheels refinished in blue as a sample.
I know colour and style are personal .. however I just thought I would share with the group to get some feedback.
The following 3 users liked this post by RX7_Renesis:
#14
Moderator
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that color combo will work, this car looked great https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/m...ouring/1365544
its almost that the more bright the blue the better, its kind of subtle in person.
its almost that the more bright the blue the better, its kind of subtle in person.
The following 2 users liked this post by j9fd3s:
diabolical1 (08-20-23),
VA RX7 (08-20-23)
#16
Senior Member
I like the combo color.......go for it......
#18
seniorchief
I like the look of the blue rim, but my "personal" choice would be black for the center cap and lug nuts.
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j9fd3s (09-19-23)
#19
Dashboard Removal
Who would have thought that late October in Canada would provide us with 19ºC or 66ºF of beautiful weather. Perfect for working on a project car.
Yesterday I worked on pulling out the dashboard. Yes .. my back is paying for it today.
A huge thanks to a previous post on the RX7 Club for step-by-step instructions.
Next step will be cutting a hole through the firewall for the GSL-SE wiring harness to the ECU.
Yesterday I worked on pulling out the dashboard. Yes .. my back is paying for it today.
A huge thanks to a previous post on the RX7 Club for step-by-step instructions.
Next step will be cutting a hole through the firewall for the GSL-SE wiring harness to the ECU.
The following users liked this post:
VA RX7 (10-25-23)
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