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just need to remove the glass... then I am set to do build a tip over rig to restore the underside and work up from there. Also going though and restoring parts using electrolysis. Currently I have the radiator support housings in the tank. If I can swing it... Ill see if I can weigh the stripped chassis.
Last edited by Richard Miller; Sep 17, 2017 at 09:35 PM.
Reason: and yes. I have given up on picture orientation.
Part of the issue when I bought this car, the wiring was gutted. So i happened into a 1983 harness, which I am going through and cleaning and bench testing. My goal is to be able combine the newer electrics using the existing headlight switch. After tracking down the schematics I am confident I can use the 1980 headlight switch.
a bit more work, I did find some rust spots underneath the undercoating, but nothing that was serious. In my dry climate and not being a daily driver it could have been fine I'm sure. Well outside of removing the last traces of the undercoating I would say this was worth the effort. At least I know the chassis is/will be in top shape for a 37 year old car.
Next issue is what color to paint the chassis. I know I do not want black. I am thinking a grey to keep things affordable, but would consider going with the factory stardust blue or a custom color though HOK. I do know I want to keep it blue. just thinking aloud...
Last edited by Richard Miller; Dec 29, 2017 at 07:05 PM.
Pinch welds have taken some time to get right, I am also nor sure if I can get the passenger side as straight. These are not jack points people! The car is currently leaning against my garage wall, my 8 inch thick solid concrete wall..and resting on two large light truck tires. straps were anchored to the upstairs flooring joists for added for stability.
Hay Richard, just ran crossed your build thread. Great Work! The REPU is going to need a Maiden Voyage in the spring/early summer. you still live in Moses, if so maybe we can make a time for me to check out your work and catch up.
Last edited by spokanerxdude; Jan 1, 2018 at 02:00 PM.
Reason: Can't Spell.
Hay Richard, just ran crossed your build thread. Great Work! The REPU is going to need a Maiden Voyage in the spring/early summer. you still live in Moses, if so maybe we can make a time for me to check out your work and catch up.
Sounds like a plan, are you looking at doing any shows in the REPU? Do you have any pictures or such of your truck? PM me when you are making the trip.
Sounds like a plan, are you looking at doing any shows in the REPU? Do you have any pictures or such of your truck? PM me when you are making the trip.
OK I'll PM you when I'm ready to go. The REPU isn't show worthy right now, my son and his brother did the seat thats about it.
Ordered a NOS ignition and key set today!! Now I can finish up on the electrical and come to think of it , I'll have keys, too. Hopefully I can get a locksmith to reset the tumblers in the door and hatch keys to match the <gush> BRAND NEW <gush> ignition switch.
Hey Richard,
That's a Master Rebuild Project you got there. Not that many people would go this far with any type of vehicle restoration. Stay motivated man and keep up the good work.
Testing all of that before it goes back into the car is smart! lol
I admire your patience in restoring the car and from the looks of it it's going to look great.
small but pivotal updates. New tie rods and parts to rebuild the control arms are in transit. I am rebuilding the rear SE calipers but the left brake was frozen . A day in the electrolysis tank, some mechanical leverage and a air compressor got me back from in business. The bore of the piston is clean and the rust was on the edge of the piston. The calipers were low mileage but rusty AF, so I think I can massage this out. Media blasting to follow...Picts when I have em. Oh yeah.... I was working on the electrical harness today also. I’m using the SA turn signal with the FB harness and have about 1/2 converted.
small but pivotal updates. New tie rods and parts to rebuild the control arms are in transit. I am rebuilding the rear SE calipers but the left brake was frozen . A day in the electrolysis tank, some mechanical leverage and a air compressor got me back from in business. The bore of the piston is clean and the rust was on the edge of the piston. The calipers were low mileage but rusty AF, so I think I can massage this out. Media blasting to follow...Picts when I have em. Oh yeah.... I was working on the electrical harness today also. I’m using the SA turn signal with the FB harness and have about 1/2 converted.
If ever run across this again,another way to remove stuck piston from any brake caliper... find proper fitting for caliper brake line,attach zerk grease fitting and pump grease into caliper. Hydraulic action forces piston from caliper no matter how badly frozen with no ill effects to either.
Cleanup in parts washer and assess condition of parts.
Started on going through electrical. half the light bulbs were bad. I have no hazards or turn signals. Wiper motor draws current but does not operate. voltmeter works, dash lights work, headlight retractors kinda work, but I don't have the headlight pop up switch wired in. hand brake light works, low coolant light works, fuel gauge does not work but the sender was toast. fuel pump gets voltage test through multimeter, windshield fluid motor did not engage I did not pursue, marker light worked. Oh yeah, the blower motor works, but I will need to go through it as it sound like there are some leaves inside.
got the turn signals to work, mostly. I need some more bulbs. Windshield wiper fluid motor now works. No wipers yet. starter solenoid, hatch solenoid and fuel door solenoid are functional. door buzzer works. Brake light work through switch. fuel gauge does work, sender does not. all other gauges function, except for the overheat warning. which Im not sure if that is a battle to fight. Horn relay functions, but did not test voltage to horn harness.
Pending is wiring in SA defroster and Headlight retractor switch into FB harness. Haven't tested the power antenna. mine is an SA and busted. possible replacement or non powered option. I'm also designing for EFI and perhaps AC that is tied into said EFI. But first I get things in order. wire wrap with Tesa high heat harness tape.
