Ultimate Street build NZ
#151
These are stainless swivel fittings. There a bunch of different tubing sizes and materials. Same for the fittings. Got the idea from the green brother's 323 wagon were using them on there water Inj setup. I'm using nylon tubing as it's good for 300psi but has much higher temp threshold then other materials. I'm using for Wastegate solenoid and water inj solenoid and fuel pressure reg. So have eliminated all other vacuum ports on mani
#154
Full Member
Thread Starter
Some oiling updates!
Finally got my Mazda speed Dry sump after a lengthy 6month, tiresome deal with a forum member.
https://www.rx7club.com/bad-fugly-me...-loss-1079903/
Don't deal with David Eppinger. 1FaastFD3s
In the time where I thought this Dry Sump wouldn't turn up at all, I ordered this cool gated Wet sump. A definite step up from my Xcessive Alloy sump, which I thinks only advantage is better sealing than the factory sump.
And its final design has a integrated Baffle
And also a Oil pick up sandwhich plate to lower the pick up tube to the bottom of the deeper pan.
Hit up Len Bacon on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/len.bacon.1?fref=ts
or Wilmeranic Mazda
https://www.facebook.com/wilmeranic?pnref=story
Cost me around $820 NZ shipped
Finally got my Mazda speed Dry sump after a lengthy 6month, tiresome deal with a forum member.
https://www.rx7club.com/bad-fugly-me...-loss-1079903/
Don't deal with David Eppinger. 1FaastFD3s
In the time where I thought this Dry Sump wouldn't turn up at all, I ordered this cool gated Wet sump. A definite step up from my Xcessive Alloy sump, which I thinks only advantage is better sealing than the factory sump.
And its final design has a integrated Baffle
And also a Oil pick up sandwhich plate to lower the pick up tube to the bottom of the deeper pan.
Hit up Len Bacon on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/len.bacon.1?fref=ts
or Wilmeranic Mazda
https://www.facebook.com/wilmeranic?pnref=story
Cost me around $820 NZ shipped
#155
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Thread Starter
Sprang a leak in the weekend,
Heard a little fizzing after shut down, found coolant bubbling from between the centre plate and front rotor housing near the primary injectors. Im now in the process of pulling the engine, going to check the torque of the engine bolts first.I haven't re torqued since the initial build.... Hoping for the best.
Heard a little fizzing after shut down, found coolant bubbling from between the centre plate and front rotor housing near the primary injectors. Im now in the process of pulling the engine, going to check the torque of the engine bolts first.I haven't re torqued since the initial build.... Hoping for the best.
#157
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Thread Starter
Thats was an older issue about month before this thats why theres some/alot spray to the left there. But it was definitely bubbling from the housing gap and filled the recess in there with a pool of coolant.
#158
Full Member
Thread Starter
#159
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Thread Starter
Pulled my engine this week for some upgrades,
Mainly to upgrade the wastage lines and fix the oil loop line leak and heat shield both.
I posted i had upgraded the lines previously but i never got to replacing the rear wastage lines, with the engine out it was a perfect opportunity.
Starting with the rear , i used silicon double layer and inner braided hose wrapped with heat shield separately then again half way and another layer combining the two lines.
On the front I used a rubber inner braided line and used some high temp silicon over the top.
Now some random garage pics haha
Thats it for now ...
Mainly to upgrade the wastage lines and fix the oil loop line leak and heat shield both.
I posted i had upgraded the lines previously but i never got to replacing the rear wastage lines, with the engine out it was a perfect opportunity.
Starting with the rear , i used silicon double layer and inner braided hose wrapped with heat shield separately then again half way and another layer combining the two lines.
On the front I used a rubber inner braided line and used some high temp silicon over the top.
Now some random garage pics haha
Thats it for now ...
#160
endless build
iTrader: (15)
Ultimate Street build NZ
Hey nice build , specially work , that oil loop line leak your have, are you able to elaborate about it .
I'm currently doing the "oil mods" , the direct front bearing and return on front iron now have -8orb fitting, just wondering if that's what your talking bout.
I'm currently doing the "oil mods" , the direct front bearing and return on front iron now have -8orb fitting, just wondering if that's what your talking bout.
#161
Full Member
Thread Starter
Thanks
Ah i didn't mean a true loop line, i was referring to the oil vent line from the exhaust side if the engine back to the catch can and filler neck . Sorry! It totally burnt thru the braided line and ill be repairing and heatsheilding that in a post tonight !
#162
endless build
iTrader: (15)
Ultimate Street build NZ
Whoaw eh, how many clicks you did before that line cooked ? I'll have to protect mine
Really well taken care car here
It's nice to follow you.
Ooo about that "full oil loop line"
I believe it will be a mandatory process once you install that dry sump you finally got.
Really well taken care car here
It's nice to follow you.
Ooo about that "full oil loop line"
I believe it will be a mandatory process once you install that dry sump you finally got.
#163
Full Member
Thread Starter
Alright Oil vent line protection time !
I burnt thru pretty much right away ...
Something that didn't work initially was using a normal 90 Deg bend , it stuck too far out and was touching the wastage's dump pipe.
So i used one of these instead , its sits much better... and gives a lot more clearance .
Now with the heatsheild , covers over the top of the fitting too.
I thought it would be cool to document this a little bit as its something i haven't seen too much on this forum specifically , and when it / if it burns out could be a very tricky thing to fix on the go (not to mention catch on fire )
I burnt thru pretty much right away ...
Something that didn't work initially was using a normal 90 Deg bend , it stuck too far out and was touching the wastage's dump pipe.
So i used one of these instead , its sits much better... and gives a lot more clearance .
Now with the heatsheild , covers over the top of the fitting too.
I thought it would be cool to document this a little bit as its something i haven't seen too much on this forum specifically , and when it / if it burns out could be a very tricky thing to fix on the go (not to mention catch on fire )
#169
Full Member
Thread Starter
So after back to back late nights and all today, i finally got it back together.
But within 2 minutes of starting , it started bellowing white smoke.
It wasn't doing this before i pulled it ... is this common to just occur on an engine sitting for a month ?
Just wanna confirm too, white smoke .. coolant leak?
Better start the pull down
But within 2 minutes of starting , it started bellowing white smoke.
It wasn't doing this before i pulled it ... is this common to just occur on an engine sitting for a month ?
Just wanna confirm too, white smoke .. coolant leak?
Better start the pull down
Last edited by lukes; 07-18-15 at 03:11 AM.
#170
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Edmonton, Canada
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Did you change your catch can setup at all? Excessive crank case pressure will push oil into the combustion chamber.
Before you do anything drastic like pulling the engine, check the basics. if you think your burning coolant you will definitely smell it and see your coolant level dropping significantly. A very quick test would be to start the car and take the oil filler cap off and see if the smoke persists. If the excessive smoke was caused by oil it may take a couple minutes after start up to clear up.
Before you do anything drastic like pulling the engine, check the basics. if you think your burning coolant you will definitely smell it and see your coolant level dropping significantly. A very quick test would be to start the car and take the oil filler cap off and see if the smoke persists. If the excessive smoke was caused by oil it may take a couple minutes after start up to clear up.
#171
Full Member
Thread Starter
Did you change your catch can setup at all? Excessive crank case pressure will push oil into the combustion chamber.
Before you do anything drastic like pulling the engine, check the basics. if you think your burning coolant you will definitely smell it and see your coolant level dropping significantly. A very quick test would be to start the car and take the oil filler cap off and see if the smoke persists. If the excessive smoke was caused by oil it may take a couple minutes after start up to clear up.
Before you do anything drastic like pulling the engine, check the basics. if you think your burning coolant you will definitely smell it and see your coolant level dropping significantly. A very quick test would be to start the car and take the oil filler cap off and see if the smoke persists. If the excessive smoke was caused by oil it may take a couple minutes after start up to clear up.
It still smoked a little bit but definitely not as much when fully warm, maybe could be deposits on the exhaust and changing to a thinner oil... i usually run thicker.
I prepped the car up to take it for a drive and to get the exhaust nice and warm,
hopefully burn anything out ......but i knocked the Air temp sensor off and broke it
Just my luck haha new one is $60
#173
Full Member
Thread Starter
If theres any Kiwis out there looking for a rolling shell without an engine or a project car, this street legal car is for sale
Mazda Other Efini Rx7 1993 | Trade Me
Im going to be looking for a Version 6 Series 8 2001-2002 or get my hands on a Spirit R if possible.
Mazda Other Efini Rx7 1993 | Trade Me
Im going to be looking for a Version 6 Series 8 2001-2002 or get my hands on a Spirit R if possible.
Last edited by lukes; 07-30-15 at 03:40 AM.
#175
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Thread Starter