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Supra goes on the dyno on Monday 7/17. I'll be tuning my Haltech Elite 2500.
After driving the RX-7 around through some of the summer heat, the added fan on the condenser with the GReddy VMIC is just not cutting it. The design of changing the condenser into a splitter that doesn't get sufficient airflow is just not going to work with 100-115F ambient temps.
So then plan is to purchase the @JP3 Motorsports RX-8 condenser relocation / upgrade kit. I'll be replacing my RX-7 compressor with the RX-8 as well because it will allow me to run JP3's line kit. I'll just end up shelving and storing my RX-7 compressor since it works fine (as well as all the lines, etc). Hoping to get this done after Hurricane season ends here in FL.
Also got a beautiful upgrade to my garage in the way of an air conditioner. So I plan to also insulate the garage further to boost its efficiency. Currently takes only about 30 minutes to cool my 3 car garage down from 90F to 75F.
Dyno day arrived! So spent a good part of the day doing a full tune. But like every dyno day, it will find the weak points on the car! Car is running 93 octane. We don't have E85 here where I live and I refuse to pay stupid prices for it.
After getting strapped in and doing some light steady state testing for both AFR (I tune in lambda) and timing, I began to move to some of the higher ends of the rpm range. After getting about 50% into the throttle, the car would cut out. Puzzled... it ended up being my traction control kicking in...
Then after getting past that quick fix, the boost was going out of control. I had turned off the boost control settings on the Haltech so that way I'd run spring pressure. With the PHR S23 kit, I had installed twin 46mm Precision wastegates that open dump. I was noticing that they were not in fact opening when I'd get to 100kpa. (I tune in metric - ie 14.5psi). But for ease of reading, I'll use imperial here lol.
The car was making around 18psi and I was constantly having to bail out of the steady state because it would easily pull 18-20psi at 4000-4500 rpm in steady state. Then POP... it sounded like a coupler had blown loose, but was in-fact, my HKS BOV coming off it's housing. The C-clip that is used must not have been installed properly (by myself)... I hadn't used enough pressure to seat it evidently because we had to use a damn vice in the shop to get it right. This didn't become evident until I had hit 18psi.
With wastegate pressures not being low enough, the next thing was to pull the wastegates and install "smaller" psi springs. Ended up going with the 9lb springs and that allowed me to keep a consistent wastegate boost pressure of 12.5-13psi.
Sadly, after all that work and some pulls, the day was over. I was able to do a couple ramp runs to clean up the fueling, which is now completely on point. The timing, however, will be left for another day. I was able to do some timing work but due to the time to do it right, I figured to schedule another dyno day down the road once my new clutch is in and I'm ready to turn the boost up to 18psi. I plan to stay conservative with 18psi because after already seeing it make 400+ torque down low, it will be more than enough for being a street car. Plus, I plan to keep a tune that isn't going to cost me in the end by being too aggressive.
Me fixing my underpanel which scraped on the way in with the Lord's fix-it-all: the ziptie. Plan to order a Dewla Dezigns later.
Doing one of the final pulls.
Me trying to get that tune dialed in. The dyno operator was sitting next to me adjusting load for steady state and allowed me to monitor torque output directly from the dyno laptop he had when doing ignition timing. I have headphones in under the ear protection so I could audibly listen to knock from my Link Knockblock and wideband knock sensors. Afterwards I would be able to tune the knock sensors for the Haltech based on the no knock tune.
1993 Mazda RX-7: Planning to purchase the @JP3 Motorsports AC kit as previously mentioned. I did some engine dress up stuff but for the most part the car remains running like a champ. The reason for going with the AC kit is to just make the AC completely updated so future proofing it. Also condenser placement with the kit is much better than the GReddy VMIC placement.
1996 Toyota Supra: Putting a new Southbend clutch and flywheel on. It will go back to the dyno to push it to 18-19psi (550+ rwhp range). I'll probably order up some APG brakes if I get this sponsorship and BCForged LE10 wheels.
2020 Subaru STI: It is for sale! I'm replacing it with a 2024 Ford Raptor. So pictues of that will hopefully be here in February/March. Currently "in production" at the Ford Plant.
I've also been working on a buddy's MR2. Its a 2.2L stroker. The original owner "built" the car, but it was a horrible mess of cheap parts, short cuts, and a hacked up wiring harness. I've stripped it down for him, fixed and updated some issues, and will be building a new motorsports harness for it to use an ECUMaster EMU.
Car up on the lift. How it started Mocking up the wiring harness. Example of some of the wiring hack jobs. It was so bad once I pulled it all. Straight to the trash can. Fire hazards abound. Stripped down To the block.
I've already removed the distributor system and converted it to coil on plug. We're replacing all the fuel lines, vacuum lines, new intake manifold, properly coating the exhaust. Installing titanium studs and nuts everywhere. It will be a monster.
Engine back together with newly powder coated parts and Cerakoted manifold. Installed all new titanium studs.
New intake manifold and RMR throttle body. New fuel system with id1050x injectors. Added a bunch of new sensors. Car is going to be mint when she’s done.
Couple of updates for the forum for anyone following along!
Below is the 98% completed MR2 wiring harness. There was still some booting to finish prior to final fitting. Afterwards I had to build out the relays for the intercooler pump, intercooler fan, and fuel pump.
The car heads to the dyno on 4/13/2024. I'll be tuning the ECUMaster EMU Classic. Hoping to make a good bit of power.
Did some street tuning to get the idle and some driveability before getting it on the dyno. The completed engine bay below with the coil on plug conversion and Precision 6266.
With the MR2 out of the garage and about to head to its owner, I was able to clean out most of the area and get the Supra and RX-7 sitting with each other. The Subaru STI is for sale and my 2024 Ford F-150 Raptor should hopefully be here within the month.
While I had some time, I had the front and rear bumpers repainted. Took them to one of the local restoration shops and they stripped them back down to the ABS. Next I removed the JDM side skirts and JDM rear spats and put the more often seen USDM/ non-RZ style rocker panels on. I feel the car looks cleaner this way and the wheels don't look as small. I also installed new headlights and tail lights to freshen everything up. The car will go for paint correction and ceramic coating at the end of May. I also installed a new flywheel and Southbend Stage 3 Endurance Clutch. So I'm in the break-in period for it. Hoping this fall to get on the dyno again and finish my tune with higher boost.
Little bit of the driveway while I was doing the garage clean out!
07-13-23, 04:26 PM
