Road car to race car.
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Road car to race car.
I think its about time i put together a build tread on my FD. bought the car back in December 06 from a rotary specialts in the uk,Hayward rotary. from a long time back i had always wanted a FD so i went for it when i had the chance. was just 17 at the time. used it on the road every day for about a year and a half. The car i thought was a waste on the road so slowly started turning it into a time attack/road car. since then its went from mint road car to pure race car,
a few days after i picked it. cleaned and the RE rims refurbed
As with most red FD's the paint had faded badly over the years so some new paint was needed. I went with Lamborghini Atlas orange.
First parts i fitted to the car was a Racing Beat usa cat back and R-magic rear spats Apxexi twin filters kit, sparco wheel and lots of elbow grease
next up was a Re-Amemiya rear diffuser.
a few months later the engine gave up and was time for a rebuild.and there was no way in hell the standered power would still be in it when i got it back from hayward rotary.
i went a bit mad at this stage looking back on the parts i bought
full engine rebuild. by hayward rotary in the uk
extended street port
exhaust ports extended
vacum lines where changed to braided ones,
garret gt35r (t4 flange) dual ball bearing turbo, v band
tial 44mm externalwaste gate with 10pound spring
Bosch 044 comp Fuel Pump
Competition Fuel Rail
1600cc injectors x2
Fuel Pressure Regulator (SARD)
new fuel line fitting kit
braided feul lines
sard FPR Gauge
stanless manifold
samco hose clamps
Apexi avcr limited edition black boost controller
greddy spec m FMIC with all pipeing
HKS ssbov
greddy trottle body intake elbow
dry cell race battery
light weight underdrive pullies
aircon and emision stuff completly remoced
mazdaspares 16 pc block of plates
koyo tripple pass aliminium race rad
feed cabon fiber vented bonnet
re amemiya facer n1 front bumper.
hks water temop guage
blackdiamon driled and groved disks
goodrich braided break lines all round.
ap racing break fluid
d2 coil overs
hid light conversion(hi/low)
sparco fixed wrap around bucket seat.
act 6 puk race clutch and 40% stiffer presure plate.
dragon racing geearbox solid brace
dragon racing solid diff brace
eibach springs
sparco 3 inch. 6 point harnesses
some of the parts
a few days after i picked it. cleaned and the RE rims refurbed
As with most red FD's the paint had faded badly over the years so some new paint was needed. I went with Lamborghini Atlas orange.
First parts i fitted to the car was a Racing Beat usa cat back and R-magic rear spats Apxexi twin filters kit, sparco wheel and lots of elbow grease
next up was a Re-Amemiya rear diffuser.
a few months later the engine gave up and was time for a rebuild.and there was no way in hell the standered power would still be in it when i got it back from hayward rotary.
i went a bit mad at this stage looking back on the parts i bought
full engine rebuild. by hayward rotary in the uk
extended street port
exhaust ports extended
vacum lines where changed to braided ones,
garret gt35r (t4 flange) dual ball bearing turbo, v band
tial 44mm externalwaste gate with 10pound spring
Bosch 044 comp Fuel Pump
Competition Fuel Rail
1600cc injectors x2
Fuel Pressure Regulator (SARD)
new fuel line fitting kit
braided feul lines
sard FPR Gauge
stanless manifold
samco hose clamps
Apexi avcr limited edition black boost controller
greddy spec m FMIC with all pipeing
HKS ssbov
greddy trottle body intake elbow
dry cell race battery
light weight underdrive pullies
aircon and emision stuff completly remoced
mazdaspares 16 pc block of plates
koyo tripple pass aliminium race rad
feed cabon fiber vented bonnet
re amemiya facer n1 front bumper.
hks water temop guage
blackdiamon driled and groved disks
goodrich braided break lines all round.
ap racing break fluid
d2 coil overs
hid light conversion(hi/low)
sparco fixed wrap around bucket seat.
act 6 puk race clutch and 40% stiffer presure plate.
dragon racing geearbox solid brace
dragon racing solid diff brace
eibach springs
sparco 3 inch. 6 point harnesses
some of the parts
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Here it was after the rebuild with new bumper bonnet and HID's fitted.
Sparco wrap around fitted. a snug fit
spent some time making up places to mount the multiple gauges and controllers,
bought a R-Magic PFC commander holder and Re-Amemiya steering column boost guage holder.
a set of 35m+ front fenders & rear diffuser air divert where ordered from shine auto in the us to allow for the new 5 zigen 10x17 inch rims with 888s.
new VS old
i then painted under the bonnet to match the rest of the car.
Sparco wrap around fitted. a snug fit
spent some time making up places to mount the multiple gauges and controllers,
bought a R-Magic PFC commander holder and Re-Amemiya steering column boost guage holder.
a set of 35m+ front fenders & rear diffuser air divert where ordered from shine auto in the us to allow for the new 5 zigen 10x17 inch rims with 888s.
new VS old
i then painted under the bonnet to match the rest of the car.
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first time competing was at japfest 2008 in Mondello park International race track. for this i went ahead and pulled out the interior.
out on track
on the way home
after competing it was time for some changes. the car now had the power i wanted but breaking and cornering needed to impove quite a bit. fasted i could do was 1.07s on the national circuit. the pace for a win was closer to a 61 second lap.
new parts ordered to try get my times down,
D2 8 pots up front with 320mm rotors
D2 6 pots for the rear again with 320mm rotors
ebc yellows
braided lines
castrol SRF fluid.
old vs new stoppers
fitted
rears. new vs old
out on track
on the way home
after competing it was time for some changes. the car now had the power i wanted but breaking and cornering needed to impove quite a bit. fasted i could do was 1.07s on the national circuit. the pace for a win was closer to a 61 second lap.
new parts ordered to try get my times down,
D2 8 pots up front with 320mm rotors
D2 6 pots for the rear again with 320mm rotors
ebc yellows
braided lines
castrol SRF fluid.
old vs new stoppers
fitted
rears. new vs old
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so that was the anchors sorted... time to move onto the handling department.
A racing beat anti roll bar was got. along with a racing beat short shifter.
full solid durlin bushes with bearings then fitted, a lend of a mates press and a few nights work they where in,
new set of wide *** rims. 5 Zigen 10 x17s all round with a +25 offset to widen the track. i love these rims
255s 888s fitted to each corner
A racing beat anti roll bar was got. along with a racing beat short shifter.
full solid durlin bushes with bearings then fitted, a lend of a mates press and a few nights work they where in,
new set of wide *** rims. 5 Zigen 10 x17s all round with a +25 offset to widen the track. i love these rims
255s 888s fitted to each corner
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the sparco wrap around was a little to big for the small rx. so swaped them out for a set of carbon kevlar corbeau pro series buckets, only 6.5kg and hold me like glue.
new solid diff mounts.
all bolted back together and out for some mid night testing...and go go juice
at the track.
a nice shot
picked up a set of slicks for a mice price and put them onto my spare rims
new solid diff mounts.
all bolted back together and out for some mid night testing...and go go juice
at the track.
a nice shot
picked up a set of slicks for a mice price and put them onto my spare rims
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old livery removed and ready for the new design.
next big thing to do was sort out the cooling on it. as it was i could only do maybe 4 hard laps before it started to get very hot. so V-mount was the only salution. didnt have the money to buy a proper set up so made do with what i have, spent hours just trying to line tings up and make it fit .its not ideal but should do the trick for now.
dragin racing diff and gearbox mounts
picked up a set of rear upper and lower RS-racing toe links. the standered ones had alot of movement on them when hard cornering witch resulted in the rear toe changing when cornering and under acceleration. .. not good. also got RS-racing pillow ball tie rod ends again just to tighten things up. only 2 original busses are left in the car at this stage. while i was fitting these i cleaned down the upper and lower wishbones front and rear with some alliminium polish. while the front end was striped i decided to seam weld the front end for now. the rest will be done when time allows.
old vs new
fitted
finnaly got some new coilovers. the D2s had been in the car nearly 3 years now so time to swap them out. picked up a set of apexi N1 evo circuits along with some new springs.
solid engine mounts
next big thing to do was sort out the cooling on it. as it was i could only do maybe 4 hard laps before it started to get very hot. so V-mount was the only salution. didnt have the money to buy a proper set up so made do with what i have, spent hours just trying to line tings up and make it fit .its not ideal but should do the trick for now.
dragin racing diff and gearbox mounts
picked up a set of rear upper and lower RS-racing toe links. the standered ones had alot of movement on them when hard cornering witch resulted in the rear toe changing when cornering and under acceleration. .. not good. also got RS-racing pillow ball tie rod ends again just to tighten things up. only 2 original busses are left in the car at this stage. while i was fitting these i cleaned down the upper and lower wishbones front and rear with some alliminium polish. while the front end was striped i decided to seam weld the front end for now. the rest will be done when time allows.
old vs new
fitted
finnaly got some new coilovers. the D2s had been in the car nearly 3 years now so time to swap them out. picked up a set of apexi N1 evo circuits along with some new springs.
solid engine mounts
Trending Topics
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ITCC time. i loved doing time attack and after 2 years of it i decided to enter ITCC. The car was now doing 1.02s on the national so it had pace but not reliability as i found out in my first race. i started 7th after bad qualy, got up to forth and moving forward but engine failure ment i had to retire.
any one recognise the crx
since then ive decided to strip it back to a shell and start again. if i can do low 1.02s as it was with the plans i have for it im looking for a 60 second car,
a few pictures from the last few years that i like.
any one recognise the crx
since then ive decided to strip it back to a shell and start again. if i can do low 1.02s as it was with the plans i have for it im looking for a 60 second car,
a few pictures from the last few years that i like.
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and some vids from the years.
when it was pretty much standered out on the international
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubNwayFKD8E
out testing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cdm8N7j4rm4
0 to 100 in 9 seconds
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NE2mEGve9cg
car went well this day and was great crack
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1b1yhg9Ul8
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the cage is still a work in progress but its getting there.
all parts have been sand blasted and painted with mazda royal purple and a few coats of lacquer. very happy with the results.
Differential
rear disks
diff mount
rear control arms
steering rack clamps
rear sub frame
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front sub frame with solid mounts
front and rear hubs along with under body brace.
i wasn't happy with the finish of the white paint so decided to get the chassis back to bare steel and paint it my self. it will also take a few KG'S of the weight of the car. this is one hateful job :evil: i near have it all done. id say a few more days and it will be ready for its new colour. it will be going a mazda gun metal grey.
more updates soon:icon_ tup:
front and rear hubs along with under body brace.
i wasn't happy with the finish of the white paint so decided to get the chassis back to bare steel and paint it my self. it will also take a few KG'S of the weight of the car. this is one hateful job :evil: i near have it all done. id say a few more days and it will be ready for its new colour. it will be going a mazda gun metal grey.
more updates soon:icon_ tup:
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As far as i know it was a 4.333. wasnt idea but Funds didnt allow for a better ratio.
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Slowest Build EVER!! time to get stuck in again and get this thing ready. The cage is now finely finished. Happy with the results each suspension turret is now connected to each other and should have the chassis as stiff.
Door bars along with the newly introduced compulsery touring bar
More diagonals added
cage connected up to the front shock tops.
another bar added and cage joined up to rear sub frame mounts.
Door bars along with the newly introduced compulsery touring bar
More diagonals added
cage connected up to the front shock tops.
another bar added and cage joined up to rear sub frame mounts.
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New engine bought for the Rx7! 13b periferal port. Racing beat USA PP housings. lightened Hi comp rotors. Racing Beat intake manifold. 55mm dual throttle bodies. fuel injected running a microtec lt8. Ali fly wheel. Davies Craig electric water pump + controller Pwr oil cooler and fan. Making just shy of 300 hp for now.
I have not yet figured out what Gearbox ill be using. im looking into a Quaife dog box to keep the revs where they should be but money might put a damper on that idea for now. Id say ill be using a rx8 6 speed with a 4.777 final drive until i can get the cash for a proper race box.
Few pics