Road car to race car.
#53
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Got to work on cleaning down the underside of the car. Hopefully by tomorrow it will be all done and primered. My new lift seems to have done the job
Had my friend Ben come over and he got stuck in to fixing up both quarter pannels. Should have them finished by tomorrow. The man is a genius with body work.
Had my friend Ben come over and he got stuck in to fixing up both quarter pannels. Should have them finished by tomorrow. The man is a genius with body work.
#54
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messing around with my Mazdaspeed rear spoiler and random wing i had lying around. What are people opinions on it? Its only mocked up for now. Im loving it!! something a little different than everything else ive seen.
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Time to start bolting it all back together finished up painting the chassis last night in are make shift spray booth .
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Got back at the car today for a little bit. Work is restricting me big time with how many hours I get to work on the car but no work no car. I spend this evening cleaning out the old grease in the bushings and replacing it with fresh stuff along with a quick polish to the wishbones. Got the front end bolted together and rear subframe mounted. although a trip to Mazda is in order as a few nuts and bolts have gone missing. Not looking forward to hearing the extortionate prices they will want. I really am enjoying finally getting to piece the car back together. There has been plenty of times i thought it would never happen or i wanted to just give up on the project.
With the sleepy head on me I made a little mistake when putting the front end together... Anyone spot it?
With the sleepy head on me I made a little mistake when putting the front end together... Anyone spot it?
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After nearly 2 years the 7 has touched the ground with its rubber. got all 4 corners finished tonight along with getting the diff dropped in. Don't mind the way in with the car is sitting as I just dropped the shock and arms in as they where.
Front hubs now on the correct side
Front hubs now on the correct side
#66
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Started on fitting some of the electrical items. I've fitted th e coils on board for 2 reason 1 to keep the dry and 2 to keep the engine bay clean and simple and as much of the loom inside the car. I have to make up some rubber ending to keep the leads from getting frayed on the sharp metal where it passes through the bulk head.
[IMG][/IMG]
The microtec ecu in its new home well out of harms way and mounted on rubber bushings.
As for cooling I have desired to run the rad as far back into the engine bay to keep as much of the weight as close to the front axel as possible for better weight distribution. I have it in the location I want it and have to get to work on making up some brackets and then ducking to force as much air as I can get through it to try keep this engine cool. I was going to run my oil cooler out on the front corner but with the class I'm racing in being a bit of a contact class I'll be keeping it well into the engine bay. Ill be running some ducting to drag air up into the cooler.
I have ran into my first 2 major problems. The first of witch I'm kind of glad has become a problem. I set to work on fitting the pedals along with the clutch and brake master. When I went to fit the brake servo It became pretty obvious that by running the cage out to the front shock towers that I had left no room to fit the servo. I completely over looked this when doing the cage. But now this means I'm just going to have to fit a pedal box to get around the problem. I had wanted to fit a pedal box as ive driven a few race cars with a proper brake system set ups and i just loved the response and fell it gave. Much more driver friendly but funds were not there. Now I have no option but to hand over the euros I'd allocated for other items to get this done.
Problem number 2 is a kick in the stones. The engine I bought has the engine mounts on the front cover so I'm going to have to pull of the rear plate and replace it with a fd rear plate to get the engine to drop in. I really didn't want to have to open the engine up but no option now. Am I right in saying that all I should have to do is replace the inner and outer water seals and fill in the stock port on the new rear plate with some Devon to fix my problem? Any help will be appreciated
[IMG][/IMG]
The microtec ecu in its new home well out of harms way and mounted on rubber bushings.
As for cooling I have desired to run the rad as far back into the engine bay to keep as much of the weight as close to the front axel as possible for better weight distribution. I have it in the location I want it and have to get to work on making up some brackets and then ducking to force as much air as I can get through it to try keep this engine cool. I was going to run my oil cooler out on the front corner but with the class I'm racing in being a bit of a contact class I'll be keeping it well into the engine bay. Ill be running some ducting to drag air up into the cooler.
I have ran into my first 2 major problems. The first of witch I'm kind of glad has become a problem. I set to work on fitting the pedals along with the clutch and brake master. When I went to fit the brake servo It became pretty obvious that by running the cage out to the front shock towers that I had left no room to fit the servo. I completely over looked this when doing the cage. But now this means I'm just going to have to fit a pedal box to get around the problem. I had wanted to fit a pedal box as ive driven a few race cars with a proper brake system set ups and i just loved the response and fell it gave. Much more driver friendly but funds were not there. Now I have no option but to hand over the euros I'd allocated for other items to get this done.
Problem number 2 is a kick in the stones. The engine I bought has the engine mounts on the front cover so I'm going to have to pull of the rear plate and replace it with a fd rear plate to get the engine to drop in. I really didn't want to have to open the engine up but no option now. Am I right in saying that all I should have to do is replace the inner and outer water seals and fill in the stock port on the new rear plate with some Devon to fix my problem? Any help will be appreciated
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Time for some updates.
Got my Corbeau Carbon/Kevlar pro series seat mounted in the car nice and far back. Had to get a removable steering wheel boss kit for me to be able to fit it!
After finding out that the rear iron on the engine I had bought was from and fc meaning I had no where to mount the rear engine mounts to suit the FD subframe. I had a fd engine I had bough a year or so ago sitting around so pulled the rear iron from it to sway out on the PP engine. I've never worked internally on a rotary but I was time to get in there, the rear iron from the donor engine was in perfect condition thankfully.
I cleaned down the intake port and drilled some small holes to help keep the jb weld locked into place.
And old red bull can, kettle and we have jb weld that is very easy to poor into the port.
Port filled.
]
Got my Corbeau Carbon/Kevlar pro series seat mounted in the car nice and far back. Had to get a removable steering wheel boss kit for me to be able to fit it!
After finding out that the rear iron on the engine I had bought was from and fc meaning I had no where to mount the rear engine mounts to suit the FD subframe. I had a fd engine I had bough a year or so ago sitting around so pulled the rear iron from it to sway out on the PP engine. I've never worked internally on a rotary but I was time to get in there, the rear iron from the donor engine was in perfect condition thankfully.
I cleaned down the intake port and drilled some small holes to help keep the jb weld locked into place.
And old red bull can, kettle and we have jb weld that is very easy to poor into the port.
Port filled.
]
#73
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Next up its was time to open up the pp engine and swap over the rear iron.
My car lift also doubles as a engine crane to
Flywheel removed and opening sequence marked.
Through bolts removed and rear stat removed.
Rear iron removed and to my delight what looks like brand new rotors and housings!
Like new in there.
Cleaned up.
New inner and outer seals Vaselined up onthe new rear iron and ready to go back together.
Finished
My car lift also doubles as a engine crane to
Flywheel removed and opening sequence marked.
Through bolts removed and rear stat removed.
Rear iron removed and to my delight what looks like brand new rotors and housings!
Like new in there.
Cleaned up.
New inner and outer seals Vaselined up onthe new rear iron and ready to go back together.
Finished
#74
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Now that the block was finished I had to do some fab work on the sump for it to work with the engine mounts now attached at the back. Angle grinder time
#75
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Altered sump fitted and new HImni solid engine mounts fitted and engine ready to drop into the bay,
Drivable engine crane time!
My friend Alan in the bay.
The PP motor looks completely lost in the FD3 chassis!
Drivable engine crane time!
My friend Alan in the bay.
The PP motor looks completely lost in the FD3 chassis!