Pics of My Build
05-12-08, 07:39 AM
#76
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
ernie, so what rwhp level did you specifically see failure at in your car with the ra seals, I was just looking at their website agian and it looks like some pretty insane drag cars are running them with what I would imagine would be well over 700hp. Just thought I would pick your brain a little, it would not be a big deal to throw some new seals in there after this summer if these are garbage.
05-12-08, 05:14 PM
#78
Living life 9 seconds at a time
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ernie, so what rwhp level did you specifically see failure at in your car with the ra seals, I was just looking at their website agian and it looks like some pretty insane drag cars are running them with what I would imagine would be well over 700hp. Just thought I would pick your brain a little, it would not be a big deal to throw some new seals in there after this summer if these are garbage.
09-26-08, 05:23 PM
#79
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Just finished on the dyno....roughly 620 at 24psi. Injectors were basically maxed out so this will do for now. There was room for a bit more, but we kelp it fairly safe.
https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/full-bridge-gt42-dyno-789741/
seems like the 600 the old setup put down still holds true in our set up....this should be a fun dubbed out shopping cart
https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/full-bridge-gt42-dyno-789741/
seems like the 600 the old setup put down still holds true in our set up....this should be a fun dubbed out shopping cart
09-27-08, 06:06 AM
#80
the mazda zoom zoom store
I think you should enjoy the car for now, next spring why don't you come back down after you add some more fuel upgrades. let's tune it for more boost, That motor and turbo just wants more boost as you can see from the dyno.
11-15-08, 08:33 PM
#81
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Updating this thread a bit...
Plans for the near future include an Excessive lower intake manifold, or perhaps custom, along with a custom upper intake manifold. Another rail of 1600 secondaries will also be added.
Studs and a 2 piece shaft will also be used, perhaps a custom shaft....this is still being looked into, along with some other drive line bits further on down the road. The current power is more than enough for the stock wheels and tires as it is.
In the current state the motor made 620 at 24 psi... if we had leaned it out a bit, it was guessed that 640, maybe 650 could have been done (just speculating based on what we saw while making numerous pulls on the dyno). We played it safe though as the injectors were basically maxed.
With the supporting fuel, new lower and upper intake, and a few more psi, I would think 700 rwhp could be achieved at 27 or so.... Not trying to open a can of worms or anything, but by going off the claims I've seen others document when using custom manifolds, and say 15 rwhp per psi, that would put it right in the ball park of 700. I feel like we've been challenged!
In all seriousness though, it does seem doable, no?
I'm not trying to take any sort of superior attitude over anyone, I simply want to push the limits. I do not believe 600 rwhp has been done with AI on a 13B until now (a few others have just done it now too!), which, is exciting. It would not have been done without the advice and knowledge gained from others. As far as physics goes... it is exactly that which tells me the limit has not been reached. Based off what I know, and what I've seen from others, there's room for much more...700 plus on a two rotor...not a problem. Ernie is proof enough of that, and there are others. 700 plus on pump gas and AI...I'm thinking yes.
And what I meant when I said the wheels were different, was simply that. They're not the stock 5 spokes. Gaudy, yes perhaps.
The lag really isn't too bad.... on the street, anything above 4500 and it gets scary. The low end isn't real responsive, but that was never one of the goals to begin with, so its really no big deal. It makes driving around town quite easy as its so docile.
Thanks on the piping, I'm happy with the way it turned out too
Not sure why we should have stuck with supras... they're heavy and we wanted a much lighter platform.
The old setup was basically identical minus the exhaust from the DP back and the intercooler and piping.... so unless something is seriously messed up, one would think the numbers would be fairly similar, which they were.
Nitrous will not be used. There is no need for it.
I do not see the how building a high horsepower car that can be easily driven on the street can be compared to a "shopping cart with dubs." It's unique, fun to drive (perhaps too fun...I wont get into that), easy enough to drive, and is not done in poor taste. The wheels...ok, so they're a bit ostentatious. They'll fit in alot better and make more sense once the body is done. Trust me. Or not.....
I don't like you? I wouldn't say that... I don't even know you. Just some of your comments are a bit childish and lack technical support, thats all.
700 + rwhp does not equate to blowing the motor, as Ernie already pointed out.
Plans for the near future include an Excessive lower intake manifold, or perhaps custom, along with a custom upper intake manifold. Another rail of 1600 secondaries will also be added.
Studs and a 2 piece shaft will also be used, perhaps a custom shaft....this is still being looked into, along with some other drive line bits further on down the road. The current power is more than enough for the stock wheels and tires as it is.
With the supporting fuel, new lower and upper intake, and a few more psi, I would think 700 rwhp could be achieved at 27 or so.... Not trying to open a can of worms or anything, but by going off the claims I've seen others document when using custom manifolds, and say 15 rwhp per psi, that would put it right in the ball park of 700. I feel like we've been challenged!
In all seriousness though, it does seem doable, no?
I'm with Barban on this one. What is going on with those wheels? And 700hp on a 2-rotor motor? Come on man. Don't develop an "I'm different than everyone else here" complex. Everyone here is trying to give you advice... Thats it. Physics is physics. Its not gonna change because you want your 2-rotor to push more than everyone elses. There are a number of well known FDs which push 700+ hp but they are 20b motors. You should look into ceramic seals and zermet rotor housings. Thats all that comes to my mind. I can't even imagine the lag on this thing.
Who is going to build your drive-train for this? Are you really trying to make a street car out of this? Man I cant wait to see this thing. BTW Piping job... Real clean. Good work!
Who is going to build your drive-train for this? Are you really trying to make a street car out of this? Man I cant wait to see this thing. BTW Piping job... Real clean. Good work!
And what I meant when I said the wheels were different, was simply that. They're not the stock 5 spokes. Gaudy, yes perhaps.
The lag really isn't too bad.... on the street, anything above 4500 and it gets scary. The low end isn't real responsive, but that was never one of the goals to begin with, so its really no big deal. It makes driving around town quite easy as its so docile.
Thanks on the piping, I'm happy with the way it turned out too
1) 2500 miles is NOTHING.
2) Your previous setup has nothing to do with your current setup.
3) Nitrous WILL blow your engine and the only people that use it need it to spool up turbos about the size of yours on track cars that make few passes before rebuilds.
4) Youre "building" a 700hp streetcar which is akin to putting dubs on a shopping cart(its a waste of money and it makes you look like an idiot).
Let me help you figure it out: you don't like me. In fact you hate me because i try to pack your crack pipe with common sense.
Youre gonna want to look at some NRS ceramic seals to hold that kind of power. They will destroy your engine when it blows(thats what 700hp 2 rotors do: they break, ask ernie)The seals are well over a grand so get out your checkbook.
you should have stuck with supras,
barban.
2) Your previous setup has nothing to do with your current setup.
3) Nitrous WILL blow your engine and the only people that use it need it to spool up turbos about the size of yours on track cars that make few passes before rebuilds.
4) Youre "building" a 700hp streetcar which is akin to putting dubs on a shopping cart(its a waste of money and it makes you look like an idiot).
Let me help you figure it out: you don't like me. In fact you hate me because i try to pack your crack pipe with common sense.
Youre gonna want to look at some NRS ceramic seals to hold that kind of power. They will destroy your engine when it blows(thats what 700hp 2 rotors do: they break, ask ernie)The seals are well over a grand so get out your checkbook.
you should have stuck with supras,
barban.
The old setup was basically identical minus the exhaust from the DP back and the intercooler and piping.... so unless something is seriously messed up, one would think the numbers would be fairly similar, which they were.
Nitrous will not be used. There is no need for it.
I do not see the how building a high horsepower car that can be easily driven on the street can be compared to a "shopping cart with dubs." It's unique, fun to drive (perhaps too fun...I wont get into that
), easy enough to drive, and is not done in poor taste. The wheels...ok, so they're a bit ostentatious. They'll fit in alot better and make more sense once the body is done. Trust me. Or not.....I don't like you? I wouldn't say that... I don't even know you. Just some of your comments are a bit childish and lack technical support, thats all.
700 + rwhp does not equate to blowing the motor, as Ernie already pointed out.
11-16-08, 05:43 PM
#82
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Dyno vid...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zv3IvzewIdg
Next step is getting coilovers under her and prepping for the fiberglass widebody to fit the new shoes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zv3IvzewIdg
Next step is getting coilovers under her and prepping for the fiberglass widebody to fit the new shoes.
11-16-08, 11:03 PM
#86
So here you are with an engine that belongs on a dragstrip(but is not intended to see one), wheels straight out of The Fast & The Furious(that cringe at the first mention of a pothole), A body kit that probably resembles something from JGTC(though I've never seen it), and coilovers that are too stiff to street but too soft to race(which you dont want to do anyways).
So, what it all adds up to is a "street car" with road manners, practicality, and driveability far inferior to that of my 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis(which is not something I would say about most of the single setup Rx7s on this forums; much less, a stock Rx7)
You are essentially building the largest, shiniest, loudest, fastest ***** to ever see a four-lane highway. But you seem to be having fun; which is really what it's all about, right?
cheers,
Barban.
11-17-08, 01:09 PM
#87
Bosozoomku
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Dude, nice! From the pics, it looks like you're doing some quality work. I, for one, really like your Veilside wheels, to each his own... It's your car, you're doing your thing with it, I respect that. New pics?
11-17-08, 01:56 PM
#88
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
it's that time of year in Packerland where we sick-os start doing all kinds of crazy mods. while the snow piles up.
just a few thoughts on your project for 09.
you are combining monster hp w monster stick. the poor old fd trans is stuck in the middle. you will be stripping 3rd gear teeth out of your trans lots. it is going to be a major issue for your car no matter how you drive it.
the rear end can hold up o k if it is properly gusseted. axles o k too if you aren't drag racing.
i currently have a T56 on my shop floor and am planning to swap it into my FD. it will need to be spaced back just under 4 inches from the FD bellhousing to clear the starter. Libertys gears will make a longer input shaft. in addition the front plate on the trans case will have to be machined to just outboard of the 11 bolts so as to reduce the outer dimension to 10 inches. a spacer w a 7 inch tube will connect the T56 and the FD bellhousing. with a minimum of GTO syncros the trans will shift at 8250 and you will not break it. you could go T56 or you could just break a whole lot of FD boxes. maybe you might consider partnering up on my project. make one, make two adapters... what's the diff.
i am doing the swap because i want to run 200 in the Texas Standing Mile and need the additional gearing.
ratios for me will be: 2.97, 2.07, 1.43, 1, .8, .62
you really are going to need more trans.
the other issue is your motor above 600 rwhp. while i have not yet made 600, but expect to next year, it seems that anything much over 600 and you start to get e-shaft flex to the point where your rotors are not happy w the irons. many that run in that hp area run 2 piece cranks w center main bearings.
or
you might find it pleasant to just tool around the street w paltry 600 hp.
and then knowing you, you might not.
don't go too crazy this winter.
regards,
hc
just a few thoughts on your project for 09.
you are combining monster hp w monster stick. the poor old fd trans is stuck in the middle. you will be stripping 3rd gear teeth out of your trans lots. it is going to be a major issue for your car no matter how you drive it.
the rear end can hold up o k if it is properly gusseted. axles o k too if you aren't drag racing.
i currently have a T56 on my shop floor and am planning to swap it into my FD. it will need to be spaced back just under 4 inches from the FD bellhousing to clear the starter. Libertys gears will make a longer input shaft. in addition the front plate on the trans case will have to be machined to just outboard of the 11 bolts so as to reduce the outer dimension to 10 inches. a spacer w a 7 inch tube will connect the T56 and the FD bellhousing. with a minimum of GTO syncros the trans will shift at 8250 and you will not break it. you could go T56 or you could just break a whole lot of FD boxes. maybe you might consider partnering up on my project. make one, make two adapters... what's the diff.
i am doing the swap because i want to run 200 in the Texas Standing Mile and need the additional gearing.
ratios for me will be: 2.97, 2.07, 1.43, 1, .8, .62
you really are going to need more trans.
the other issue is your motor above 600 rwhp. while i have not yet made 600, but expect to next year, it seems that anything much over 600 and you start to get e-shaft flex to the point where your rotors are not happy w the irons. many that run in that hp area run 2 piece cranks w center main bearings.
or
you might find it pleasant to just tool around the street w paltry 600 hp.
and then knowing you, you might not.
don't go too crazy this winter.
regards,
hc
11-17-08, 02:29 PM
#89
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
I dont know how to explain this to you subtly; but that is a me problem. The fact of the matter is that high horsepower rotaries are failure prone. More to the point: all high horsepower engines are failure prone due to the additional stresses that kind of power entails. And,(everyone cover your ears) rotaries are more failure prone than piston engines.
So here you are with an engine that belongs on a dragstrip(but is not intended to see one), wheels straight out of The Fast & The Furious(that cringe at the first mention of a pothole), A body kit that probably resembles something from JGTC(though I've never seen it), and coilovers that are too stiff to street but too soft to race(which you dont want to do anyways).
So, what it all adds up to is a "street car" with road manners, practicality, and driveability far inferior to that of my 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis(which is not something I would say about most of the single setup Rx7s on this forums; much less, a stock Rx7)
You are essentially building the largest, shiniest, loudest, fastest ***** to ever see a four-lane highway. But you seem to be having fun; which is really what it's all about, right?
cheers,
Barban.
So here you are with an engine that belongs on a dragstrip(but is not intended to see one), wheels straight out of The Fast & The Furious(that cringe at the first mention of a pothole), A body kit that probably resembles something from JGTC(though I've never seen it), and coilovers that are too stiff to street but too soft to race(which you dont want to do anyways).
So, what it all adds up to is a "street car" with road manners, practicality, and driveability far inferior to that of my 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis(which is not something I would say about most of the single setup Rx7s on this forums; much less, a stock Rx7)
You are essentially building the largest, shiniest, loudest, fastest ***** to ever see a four-lane highway. But you seem to be having fun; which is really what it's all about, right?
cheers,
Barban.
The "Big Stick" supra and the Veilside drag R34 were the inspiration for those long before that stupid movie... Whatever, I love em:-D
The Texas Mile is the main encouragement for the power. Granted, its more failure prone at those levels. And practicality was never the goal with this car, thats why we all have our daily drivers, right?
Couldn't agree more with your last sentence.
it's that time of year in Packerland where we sick-os start doing all kinds of crazy mods. while the snow piles up.
just a few thoughts on your project for 09.
you are combining monster hp w monster stick. the poor old fd trans is stuck in the middle. you will be stripping 3rd gear teeth out of your trans lots. it is going to be a major issue for your car no matter how you drive it.
the rear end can hold up o k if it is properly gusseted. axles o k too if you aren't drag racing.
i currently have a T56 on my shop floor and am planning to swap it into my FD. it will need to be spaced back just under 4 inches from the FD bellhousing to clear the starter. Libertys gears will make a longer input shaft. in addition the front plate on the trans case will have to be machined to just outboard of the 11 bolts so as to reduce the outer dimension to 10 inches. a spacer w a 7 inch tube will connect the T56 and the FD bellhousing. with a minimum of GTO syncros the trans will shift at 8250 and you will not break it. you could go T56 or you could just break a whole lot of FD boxes. maybe you might consider partnering up on my project. make one, make two adapters... what's the diff.
i am doing the swap because i want to run 200 in the Texas Standing Mile and need the additional gearing.
ratios for me will be: 2.97, 2.07, 1.43, 1, .8, .62
you really are going to need more trans.
the other issue is your motor above 600 rwhp. while i have not yet made 600, but expect to next year, it seems that anything much over 600 and you start to get e-shaft flex to the point where your rotors are not happy w the irons. many that run in that hp area run 2 piece cranks w center main bearings.
or
you might find it pleasant to just tool around the street w paltry 600 hp.
and then knowing you, you might not.
don't go too crazy this winter.
regards,
hc
just a few thoughts on your project for 09.
you are combining monster hp w monster stick. the poor old fd trans is stuck in the middle. you will be stripping 3rd gear teeth out of your trans lots. it is going to be a major issue for your car no matter how you drive it.
the rear end can hold up o k if it is properly gusseted. axles o k too if you aren't drag racing.
i currently have a T56 on my shop floor and am planning to swap it into my FD. it will need to be spaced back just under 4 inches from the FD bellhousing to clear the starter. Libertys gears will make a longer input shaft. in addition the front plate on the trans case will have to be machined to just outboard of the 11 bolts so as to reduce the outer dimension to 10 inches. a spacer w a 7 inch tube will connect the T56 and the FD bellhousing. with a minimum of GTO syncros the trans will shift at 8250 and you will not break it. you could go T56 or you could just break a whole lot of FD boxes. maybe you might consider partnering up on my project. make one, make two adapters... what's the diff.
i am doing the swap because i want to run 200 in the Texas Standing Mile and need the additional gearing.
ratios for me will be: 2.97, 2.07, 1.43, 1, .8, .62
you really are going to need more trans.
the other issue is your motor above 600 rwhp. while i have not yet made 600, but expect to next year, it seems that anything much over 600 and you start to get e-shaft flex to the point where your rotors are not happy w the irons. many that run in that hp area run 2 piece cranks w center main bearings.
or
you might find it pleasant to just tool around the street w paltry 600 hp.
and then knowing you, you might not.
don't go too crazy this winter.
regards,
hc
The trans and diff will be braced up. The axles will most likely be left alone for now...I doubt it will see too many hard launches.
I like the idea of the T56, that may be something we'll look into.
We have all the gearing we need with the auto diff and taller tires, but like you say, who knows how long it'll hold up making hard pulls.
Not too much else will be done power wise until the shaft is addressed. Either 2 piece or something else...along with studs.
I'll be shooting you a pm...
01-24-09, 05:27 PM
#90
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Just got some coilovers for the ol' birthday, so we got the car down to where it needs to be.
Trimmed the rear fenders a bit to allow for the talller tires. Next step is the body...
Trimmed the rear fenders a bit to allow for the talller tires. Next step is the body...
01-25-09, 12:56 PM
#94
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
I think guys shooting for the Texas Mile can do anything they want. However, I think the bigger issues with doing well there are aerodynamics and not JUST horsepower. Six or 700 rwhp in a 2800 pound car with the right gearing will easily get you well over 200 mph. I saw 175-180 with my old car with about 500+ rwhp and have seen several vids with the speedo over 180.
I remember seeing a car at LeMans going airborne at 200 mph because they had made an error in the aerodynamics. Not good. You need to be sure you don't get too much lift under the front and ideally need to reduce lift on both ends the right amount, I think. Running water injection and other aids to let you shut down the grille even more would help as well.
Anyway, just my 2 cents on the Texas Mile thing.
Nice build going. You seem to be rushing ahead with your own ideas and telling a lot of people, "hey, it'll work... regardless of what you think." Always admire self-assurance.
Gordon
I remember seeing a car at LeMans going airborne at 200 mph because they had made an error in the aerodynamics. Not good. You need to be sure you don't get too much lift under the front and ideally need to reduce lift on both ends the right amount, I think. Running water injection and other aids to let you shut down the grille even more would help as well.
Anyway, just my 2 cents on the Texas Mile thing.
Nice build going. You seem to be rushing ahead with your own ideas and telling a lot of people, "hey, it'll work... regardless of what you think." Always admire self-assurance.
Gordon
The next big step for this car will be the body, and everything will be done in the consideration of being as slippery as possible, as well as keeping the car planted at speed.
The front of the car will be elongated approx. 8" at the bottom, coming to more of a point. The rear bumper will be brought downward to match the reast of the body to further increase the distance the air must travel under the car. A flat tray with two diffuser channels will take care of the bottom, and we are still playing with where the new exhaust will be routed. Wheel wells vented, mirrors replaced, possibly smoothing panel seams...It'll look pretty radical. Tastefully radical however. No akward lines, no buldging flares that dont follow body lines... smooth.
I remember there being a thread sometime ago where someone recorded the time it took to go from 60-160 or so with the headlights up, the headlights down... the wheel well plastic in, and with it removed, and I want to say there was over a second to be gained from just simple mods like these. Add it up and there's a few seconds to possibly be gained... a few seconds within a 20-24 second window is huge.
01-25-09, 06:05 PM
#95
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
04-05-10, 01:56 AM
#96
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Update:
New suspension and brake lines are in. Carbon seats are in. Cage installed. Engine Bay cleaned, fuse boxes/etc. relocated. Fenders trimmed. Turbo machined, blanket on.
The new body (longer/wider/aero friendly) is being finished up along with undertray and diffuser, should be complete within the next 1-2 months.
More pics and video to come soon.
New suspension and brake lines are in. Carbon seats are in. Cage installed. Engine Bay cleaned, fuse boxes/etc. relocated. Fenders trimmed. Turbo machined, blanket on.
The new body (longer/wider/aero friendly) is being finished up along with undertray and diffuser, should be complete within the next 1-2 months.
More pics and video to come soon.
04-05-10, 05:10 AM
#97
Sheriff´s FD
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Impressive build up !!!
But im wondering and asking myself WHY would someone go from 600 horses up to more horses??? HP-Junkie? Was there a faster car that beat you???
WHEN my FD runs fine, my goals are about 300-400 hp :-)
But im wondering and asking myself WHY would someone go from 600 horses up to more horses??? HP-Junkie? Was there a faster car that beat you???
WHEN my FD runs fine, my goals are about 300-400 hp :-)
04-05-10, 09:23 PM
#98
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
The reason for more power would be the Texas Mile... that, and to see just how far we can take it.
First drive of the year. 150 without doors is an uneasy feeling. New body panels are almost finished up... fiberglass is a PITA.
First drive of the year. 150 without doors is an uneasy feeling. New body panels are almost finished up... fiberglass is a PITA.
