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My What Have I Gotten Myself Into FD Build Thread
I have been in the process of my build for some time and thought I’d start this for others as build threads have helped me and for assistance from others in what lies ahead.
As intro, I’ve owned all three gens as well as a '67 Triumph GT-6, '65 Lemans convertible (with a transplanted 428), '83 Dodge D150 and a '71 Norton Commando (only the Commando and FD remain). Obviously, I’m pretty much a gear head (as I’m sure as most are on this site). I’m the second owner of a '94 Touring MB FD since 1999 and my dad was the original owner, so it’s been in the family since day 1. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2f45558da0.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9b8130ff9d.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b0df036f87.jpg It was pretty much babied and left alone for 15 years, that is until I started tracking it, COMPLETELY STOCK! It did great (for a while). It really hugged the curves and had just enough power to keep up with most of the pack. The only issue I had was brakes. The stock brakes were not enough for track abuse so I upgraded to Hawk DTC pads which was a much needed improvement. More recently I added an oil catch can and relocated the battery to the hatch. Being completely stock with the stock gauges, ignorance was truly bliss. I was fat dumb and happy for three or so years until the NASA mid-Atlantic finale 2013 when I got on the track four times vice the usual three. Well that pretty much cooked my O-rings. I actually had installed an oil and water temp gauges just before that event, but was having too much fun to accept what the new gauges were telling me, especially since i had tracked it numerous times before to no avail Luckily (for me), a local Mazda club member indicated he totaled his FD with a practically new reman engine. I jumped at this as the insurance price was only slightly more than the cost of a new reman. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6d7a4d6cbc.jpg After I got the donor engine out, I read about quality control issues... https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...inues-1035361/ F----! I now have to rebuild a practically new engine. F____! . |
Getting The Donor Engine Out
First time doing this, but found it fairly easy and straightforward (taking things apart is the easy part, putting them back back together is the hard part).
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3be57df62b.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c8f197fa83.jpg I found the FSM and instructions at Rotary Resurection quite helpful (though it would be even better if their pictures were a little bigger) Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild. Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild. I also toyed with the idea of fixing the donor car as a dedicated track car. https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...eable-1059483/ I decided against that as the frame is undoubtedly bent and paying to have that fixed and then rebuilding my original engine just wasn't worth it. Plus i don't have the space for two FDs, nor have a trailer for a dedicated track car. After i got the engine out, i tore it down and drove it up to IRP for a rebuild. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...357d248a00.jpg Transmission removed https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5e28b24505.jpg Nicely fits in a keg cooler https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...281aaf5fe9.jpg Tearing down at IRP. Somebody may recognize their car in the background https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...de1853d4c1.jpg Note rust in lower coolant passages. Although this is new reman, it had been sitting for several months in the insurance lot before i got it. My goals for the build is a dual purpose car, but with a nod to track use. I know the road down this path is a waste of money as the road usually ends up with a full track car. Oh well, i guess i'll go down this road anyway. Maybe by the time i get to the end of that road, i will have moved to Charlottesville and have a nice three car garage for both my track and DD FDs Anyway, with dual purpose in mind, i spec'd an aggressive street port, RX Parts Seals, and viton water seals. Also had the oil and water passages as well as the turbo wastegate ported. |
I'm really loving that keg cooler pic. Nice build BTW!
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....and The Patient
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a2716b1454.jpg
Before... https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bacf3a7531.jpg ...and After I must say, dealing with two engine removals is a real PITA https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c29c10f495.jpg |
With the engine out and the donor being rebuilt at IRP, thought i'd get around to the to-do list.
1. Upgrade suspension and shocks 2. Manual steering rack 3. Relocate gas filter 4. Dual oil coolers 5. Dedicated OMP oil feed 6. Radiator 7. 929 MC 8. Oil catch can 9. 99 bumper and wing 10. ECU and wideband 11. AI 12. Single Turbo and with the transmission off, replace the 5th gear syncro Easy Peasy |
Front Suspension
Primary use will be track days with some street driving. Know Ohlins are the way to go with Teins a good budget compromise, but not knowing exactly what I need, decided to go Ground Control/Koni route first and see how they do before spending big bucks. Also, at only 65k miles, my bushings were ready to get replaced.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...217f5bf47c.jpg <br/>Tearing down the front suspension https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e54ec902cc.jpg LCA With the suspensions components out, thought i'd clean them up. Got a cheap soda blaster from Eastwood that worked ok for the few parts i needed to clean. [http://www.eastwood.com/soda-blast-intro-kit.html] Even for the small use, the hose needs to be replaced with something more beefy as the one that came with it kept collapsing. After shot... https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...86d9964c84.jpg Overall, I was pleased. |
and the reason I needed to upgrade my suspension...
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3f8bd202f5.jpg The mustang kicked my ass BTW |
Great writeup.
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Bushings
While somewhat of a puzzle, pushing the bushings was actually fun (except for the trailing arms)
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8999a358d8.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...11e477e209.jpg |
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https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7e35cba762.jpg New pillowballs.... (and yes, dust caps were installed) https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...12f5ea1aae.jpg and new Super Pro bushes throughout with zerks.... I used Neo Watercraft grease (Watercraft Grease - Neo Synthetic Oil) and that stuff is a real pain to get off if it gets on stuff you don't want it. No pictures, but the bushings are drilled at the fittings for the grease to reach the crush tubes and then the inner diameter was routed to allow even dispersal. This was a pain for each bushing. Overall, think it took me a couple months to do the suspension from getting the components off, cleaned, old bushings removed, zerks installed and new bushings pushed as well as having to buy a 20 ton press The following helped me in the process: - https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-w...shings-648765/ - Part 1: Powerflex Bushings Miata Polyurethane Bushings Installation - Polyurethane bushing grease fitting install - Nissan Road Racing Forums - Pillow Ball Replacement |
I like what you did with bushings. Thanks for providing the links they are very helpful.
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Originally Posted by TomU
(Post 12018432)
While somewhat of a puzzle, pushing the bushings was actually fun (except for the trailing arms)
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Differential Bushes/Axle Bearings
Now these were a different story. Knowing the fuel filter is a real pain to get to and wanting to replace the diff bushes, which is also a pain, I decided to drop the sub-frame. The driveshaft/exhaust/ppf were already removed when I pulled the engine which made it a little easier.
Now I could have simply either dropped the sub-frame with the differential and axles connected, or even pull the axles (which is rather simple) and drop the diff, but nooooo, I decided to pull the rear hubs :wallbash: This required breaking the inner race and then getting the outer race separated. This is a real pain of a job, but allowed my to replace the bearings (which probably didn't need replacing), install longer wheel studs (which I probably don't need), and remove the brake dust shield (for marginally better brake cooling). https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c2a8b7e5dc.jpg Pulling the hubs (which breaks the inner bearing race) https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3eecb42ff2.jpg Hub off :icon_tup: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2f5ef2b260.jpg Pulling the outer race. Lot of heat was required as well (did not need to grind anything though) More detailed instructions on replacing the bearings: - https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...cement-401595/ And the easy part, pushing in the new bearings... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...eeb6607f86.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...31c1dc63e9.jpg New bearings installed :nod: With the hubs off, it was easy job removing the axles. They pop out with a pry bar https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...dcc83570df.jpg And the differential free... https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4cb760dce6.jpg |
The differential bushes are oil filled and if you don't get the press on the outside edge of the bushes, it squirts out the inner part with the all the oil on the floor. They are also in there good so the come out with quite a bang. I followed these instructions:
- https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...nstall-645194/ And the new bushes in... https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...784374c133.jpg Lubed real good because i'm not getting to that thing again anytime soon :fingersx: I must say if I had to do it again, I would have taken the components (esp the hubs) to a machine shop. I doubt they'd charge much and would have saved me some hassle. |
That's something I'd like to do soon. I think I'll take your advice and take it to a machine shop. Keep us posted on how it feels with the new bushes, mine are probably worn out and I don't know. lol
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You can tell if they are worn by doing the wiggle test. Stick a screw driver in and wiggle them around. You can feel if they have any resistance or not. The only ones I had that were good were the trailing arms. Unfortunately, there's no replacements for the front control arm ball joints unless you replace the arms. Mine seemed marginal and I opted to re-grease and re-install. Not sure that was the right decision because it doesn't feel as tight as it should, esp with poly all around. I have some dialing in to do on the shocks so maybe that will help
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I regreased and put new boots on the ball joints too. I just wish I took the extra step to get the arms painted when I replaced all the bushings like your doing. Oh well, it still drives amazing and like a new car. I put in the Mazda competition bushings from Mazda motorsports which is 40% stiffer then stock but still rubber. The only thing left for the job are the motor mounts but they cost 800 for both from Mazda motorsports. I would like to get the job finished soon because I feel a bit of drivetrain slack when shifting and you can see it in my autocross videos.
Sorry for the rant. Your work is similar to mine but a couple things different are that your doing the work. I didn't. And your putting a bit more detail to the job. Keep up the good work and I will frequent your build for updates. |
IMO, stock is nearly perfectly balanced for street and occasional autocross. I predominately track mine and wanted a little stiffer (and cheaper) suspension. I am finding though that aftermarket parts (in general) are not designed as a system and when you start replacing stock parts, it creates imbalances that need addressing. If I wasn't tracking, Mazda comps are definitely the way to go (and maybe even the way to go for tracking).
As far as engine mounts, you may want to try Banzai's tranny brace, esp before shelling out $800. I put one on before I made any suspension changes and it really helped the "drivetrain slack". Only issue I had with it was minor clearance issues with the SAB tube where it mounts to the tranny. You have to cut off a tab from that for the brace to fit. A rather easy mod. |
Fuel Filter Relocation
Now onto the beast to change fuel filter. Not wanting to have to get at it again, I chose the relocate route.
dropping the subframe... https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e3e400b6df.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...864f49dc1b.jpg and the resulting void... https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...db622369ce.jpg The offending culprit (never been changed!)... https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...615defb48a.jpg I went with a Fuelab 6 micron 818 fuel filter which is rated for E85 as a potential future option and mounted to the subframe as high as possible (and w/o obstructing the diff fill hole). I hate AN hose and prefer to use metal tube as much as possible. Unfortunately, i'm not a professional fabricator so it took some stock to get something that is merely ok. In the process I replaced all the rubber fuel hose with new and double clamped where it connects to the tube. Thankfully no leaks :icon_tup: which would have been a major cussing event because i didn't connect the fuel until after all the rear driveline/suspension/exhaust was reinstalled. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...566f762b50.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...94dee007fd.jpg More help on the subject: - https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...cation-730863/ |
Wow, good work on the bushings and bearings. In for pictures of the Norton.
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I bought the Norton because I was tired of exhaustive car builds and wanted to simplify my projects. Of course the simplification never happened (mainly due to two reasons below). Maybe someday I will get to it
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...54e4e88d04.jpg and a previous build (with my FC in the background) https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b9f034b629.jpg Unfortunately don't have pictures of my previous FB, GT6, or Trophy TR6 |
FD Weight Reduction
If you want to reduce weight, remove the drivetrain.... :lol:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d604d28fba.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...24a18ac18f.jpg |
Brakes
Tracking a stock FD, OEM brakes are fine, except for the pads. I tracked about 6 events on stock pads and rotors when they started to warp (actually think warped brakes are a misnomer in that the pads material transfers unevenly to the rotor creating the warped sensation). Anywho, I upgraded to Hawk DTC pads and Stoptech cryo'd slotted rotors. Can't really comment on the rotors as I don't have enough track time on them, but the DTC pads are great. Big improvement.
However, in dismantling the car, I noticed the front piston dust covers were melted. Hard to see here, but numerous holes were experienced. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8d8df6ca7f.jpg When I installed the new pads, i also installed titanium backing plates and used ceramic paste. Not sure if that contributed, but i'm pretty sure the culprit was the higher temp pads. I did not rebuild the brakes when I put in the new pads, so since I needed to replace the dust covers, I thought I'd go ahead and do that. Popped the pistons... https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...dcbafce2f9.jpg They look pretty good https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...266b7673da.jpg So cleaned and reinstalled https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0700971a18.jpg Also when I first replaced the pads, I installed speed bleeders. Be careful torqueing these as the break rather early. I broke the one on the rear. To get it out, I had to drill a hole then hammer a hex bit in the hole. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5aa2b478ee.jpg Also picked up some ducted backing plates. They were originally tack welded so I had them strengthened. Thought the welds turned out nice (for a brake duct). https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ea7599b1ec.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...02cbd7009c.jpg Instructions: not FD specific, but you get the idea... Brake Caliper Rebuild - Do-It-Yourself Instructions For Racers - Circle Track Magazine |
Where'd you pick up those ducted plates? Tre cool.
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Got them from a forum member. Probably not that hard to fab with some basic tools (may not look as nice). Think the hardest would be getting the dimple in the pipe. Next time I have the brakes off, will pull them off and draw up a template.
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Shocks
For me, suspension and brakes are more important than HP. Even so, cost is always a consideration so I decided to give the tried and true GC/Koni combo a try. This decision was made before I blew my engine when my objectives were to have a fun track car on a budget. Of course, that plan has quickly gone out the window. Since I've got them, will see how these do. I went with 9/7k spring rates and hope that's not too soft with 255 RE-71Rs. I did replace the sways with Peter Ferrell bars. Will see how that combo works.
Fronts https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e6ae41835f.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...baf769d040.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b39ddb6ae5.jpg Rears https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...99f6dd075d.jpg |
Sway Bars
Without any road feedback on the new bushes and coilovers, I went ahead and replaced the sway bars. I got a used PFS set cheap so thought I'd give it a go. I can always revert back to stock if they are too aggressive. I also went with Improved Racing end links. These provide more adjustability which is good if you know how to fine tune a suspension, which I do not. Thankfully RP Performance Racing at Summit Point know their stuff.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d76c280cb1.jpg I also installed Super Now sway bar brackets. These are shorter than stock which raises the bar and seem beefier. Gotta love the Super Now colors :lol: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...932e8cb138.jpg |
Steering
I always found the FD power steering fine for track duty, but have read a lot on the subject of going manual, so I thought I'd give it a try. Besides the potential benefits of driver feedback, you also loose some weight in the engine bay and make room for cooling or other aftermarket parts. I knew I wanted a better rack than a simple looped setup and was contemplating full depowering ala https://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php or going the Maval route when a Chips Motorsports rack came up for sale with little mileage. I jumped on it
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b843403d0e.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...68d7f7b5c5.jpg I have since gotten it on the road and I must say, driving around town is a pain and I still am running stock tires. I would not recommend this mod for a street car. |
Love your build! Keep those updates coming :)
Few questions: How do you like the konis with the groundcontrol? How do the 9/7k spring rates feel driving around town? Most people had good comments about the de-powered rack. So how bad is it for you? I'm still debating on doing this...so I'm just curious why you think its a pain... |
Honestly, I don't have enough miles yet to evaluate the coilovers. They seem a little soft, but are currently dialed back all the way. Hope to get on the track soon to truly evaluate (this thread is lagging somewhat). As for steering, it's a real chore to turn the wheels at low speed. Forget trying to hold a cup of coffee, turn, and shift at the same time. At speed, it's still tough but much more manageable. Again, will see how my arms feel after a 20+ turn road course over the span of 25 mins.
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Can you post a picture of your car with the Ground control on? I want to see the ride height.
At the moment, I have Koni Yellow's and H&R springs. |
Originally Posted by 7_rocket
(Post 12050618)
Can you post a picture of your car with the Ground control on? I want to see the ride height.
At the moment, I have Koni Yellow's and H&R springs. http://www.ground-control-store.com/...hp/II=42/CA=23 |
Don't have any pictures at the moment, but when I first put them on, the front ride height was way low, I'm talking maybe I could barely get to 25" with everything set to max height. Seems the threaded sleeves that fit over the shocks were too short. I got new ones from GC that fixed the problem and I now have good ride height range (Don't know min to max but guessing around 23-27 +/- an inch)
See: https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-w...-help-1088830/ |
Oh man i just realized you are right around the corner from me!! If you ever need a hand just hit me up!
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I've got a sweet set of swaybar mounts, but I'm holding off cause I've been thinking the swaybar should low-point the frame in case the car ever high sides on something. And, in that case you'd want to throw away your swaybar mounts and not straighten your frame. Thoughts?
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Not really sure in what situation where you might "high side" on something where the sway bar would protect the frame. At the track, I'm worried about going into a wall and don't think a lower bar will help there.
Think the higher bar is more about suspension geometries, but I'm no expert in that area. I ended up getting the Super Now's not because they were shorter, but because they are beefier than stock, which are a known weakness, especially with the beefier bar. I also was making a RHD Japan group purchase and that made the decision easier. If I wasn't getting anything else from them, I'd get the beefed up Mazdatrix mounts which I believe are AWRs |
Sure, consider this:
All those broken stock swaybar mounts are impact related, it's not metal fatigue from normal use. They impact things because they're the low point on the front frame. Changing their mode of failure and location is going to have some implications, not necessarily related to cornering performance. |
Originally Posted by TomU
(Post 12050614)
Honestly, I don't have enough miles yet to evaluate the coilovers. They seem a little soft, but are currently dialed back all the way. Hope to get on the track soon to truly evaluate (this thread is lagging somewhat). As for steering, it's a real chore to turn the wheels at low speed. Forget trying to hold a cup of coffee, turn, and shift at the same time. At speed, it's still tough but much more manageable. Again, will see how my arms feel after a 20+ turn road course over the span of 25 mins.
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I am where you are on the fuel filter relocation and I don't want to do it lol.
Replaced the fuel hat today and tried to use some barbed fittings with the stock rubber hoses and it's a no go. Looks like I will have to go AN 90's off the hat and I'm trying to decide how far I'm going to go with it. Relocating and upgrading the fuel filter wasn't on my list but it rapidly becoming part of the scope creep we all know and love. |
Originally Posted by Narfle
(Post 12051301)
Sure, consider this:
All those broken stock swaybar mounts are impact related, it's not metal fatigue from normal use. They impact things because they're the low point on the front frame. Changing their mode of failure and location is going to have some implications, not necessarily related to cornering performance.
Originally Posted by afterburn27
(Post 12052431)
I'm not sure what your alignment specs are, but you could always try running with less caster angle to reduce steering force.
Believe it's set at 6 deg of castor, camber is around -2
Originally Posted by ZoomZoom
(Post 12052910)
I am where you are on the fuel filter relocation and I don't want to do it lol. Replaced the fuel hat today and tried to use some barbed fittings with the stock rubber hoses and it's a no go. Looks like I will have to go AN 90's off the hat and I'm trying to decide how far I'm going to go with it. Relocating and upgrading the fuel filter wasn't on my list but it rapidly becoming part of the scope creep we all know and love.
That said, like what you are doing BTW |
Originally Posted by TomU
(Post 12053193)
The plan is to have no impacts :nod:
Believe it's set at 6 deg of castor, camber is around -2 Relocating the fuel filter was easy for me since I had the rear sub-frame out anyways. Since I still have the stock hat and no AN fitting, I went with fuel line/hose. For the new line, just had to bubble flare it for the hose connection. IMHO, hard line is better/cheaper than AN hose, but it's a given it's harder to work with. That said, like what you are doing BTW |
Fuel Hardlines
Here's what I'm talking about....
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post11409480 https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post11704760 And the proper tool... https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post11007735 I used the ATD inline flaring tool. ATD-5483 - Master In-Line Flaring Tool Kit - ATD Tools, Inc. It's ok, but the hydraulic is def the way to go. And AN is 37 degrees so you need to make sure you get the right tool if you are flaring for AN |
Just found this , can't wait to see more of it !
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Battery Relocation
Did this mod before joining the forum. Primary reason was to improve airflow in the engine compartment and secondary was better weight
distribution (and to allow room for my sub-amp, see next post). https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d3d523f52b.jpg I mounted the battery in the rear deck. It fits in a Summit/Jegs battery box underneath the rear strut bar. It's bolted to the floor with threaded rod. If I had to do it over, i'd use nutserts as it was a pain getting the nuts on the underside. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8c66eb4c41.jpg I connected the positive post to a cutoff switch, then to a 150A ANL fuse. If I did it again, i'd use a breaker vice a fuse. The neg is connected to the strut brace nut and the positive is routed through the cabin on the passenger side then underneath the dash and through the firewall by the clutch pedal. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f0952ebd0b.jpg I went through the firewall before I learned there was a convenient opening under the fender. :banghead: Next was connecting to the main fuse block. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...35b541af69.jpg If you notice, I ghetto rigged a support to zip tie the fuse block to (not connected at the moment). I wish there was a better way to do this w/o redoing the harness wiring. This will be something to get to later tho. |
Stereo
This was actually my first mod. Not having a bose unit, it was a pretty straight forward install. In my previous post, you may have wondered
why I didn't mount the battery in the rear bin as it would have a lower center of gravity. First, I did not want to hack up my bin and second, that's where I installed my subwoofers. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...878ad38e66.jpg I removed the bin lids and mocked up replacement lids using plexiglass which I connected to the hinges and drilled holes for 6" subwoofers. The sub-amp and woofers were from my FC, so I thought i'd throw them in the FD (the 6" woofers fit perfectly in the FC rear speaker holes BTW). The head unit is a Kenwood and I thought you could change the light color. Apparently, that's the more expensive model so I am stuck with blue light, but that's ok because that goes with the bright white gauge colors in my gauge pod. :lol: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4387efe9f1.jpg The stereo was nice when I was running the stock pre-cat and catback and everything was nice and quiet. Not now though :p: Since this is becoming more and more of a track car, i'll probably rip it out, but for now it's installed and not going anywhere. |
5th Gear Synchro
With the tranny out, thought i'd change out the 5th gear synchro even though I wasn't having any real problems other than a couple missed shifts.
This wasn't a super complex repair. Biggest issue was making the extended gear puller. Mahjik has a good how-to: THIS IS NOT MY WRITE UP. I simply saved this for other people so DON'T contact me about the tools David Geesaman also has a very good how-to on a complete transmission rebuild. It's a 28MB pdf that's well worth seeking out (can email if anyone's interested) https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2b46967038.jpg Extension housing removed https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5fc36e3e1a.jpg Bearing Housing Plate removed exposing the dreaded 5th gear synchro (arrow) https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d3b3b2245b.jpg Synchro out, no apparent issues I went ahead and replaced the synchro anyways. Another if I had to do it over again would be to replace the mainshaft rear bearing. This needs to be pulled to access the synchro and pressure is applied to the edges of the bearing when pulling. This could damage the bearing and should have been replaced as a cautionary procedure since it's not that expensive. I went ahead and reinstalled it. Since I had placed a RHD Japan order for other things, I picked up a Super Now transmission cover. It's thicker and has beefy radiant fins. Not sure how effective it really is, but since I was paying freight on other things, the price of the cover wasn't outrageous (unlike the Greddy diff cover) https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5196b23267.jpg Stock cover vs. Super Now Main gears exposed. They seem in good order :icon_tup: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d3f07ce36c.jpg I also put on a new clutch fork. Think this was an issue on '93's and was upgraded for the '94's so mine should have been fine, but I replaced it anyway. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c8896ba006.jpg New fork is on the left |
Clutch
Went with the ACT HD Pressure Plate and Street Clutch (ZX6-HDSS). Hopefully this should be good for my 350-400 power goals
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5b612d5d55.jpg Note new Excessive motor mounts I was initially concerned about the clutch feel, esp for road course use. Hinson modified a Wildwood master cylinder to fit so I thought about using that https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3911589f13.jpg I ended up going OEM (new) https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d05d84b8c5.jpg I don't have any hours under this setup so don't have any feedback yet. |
Something to think about with synchro's. The FD and FC TII synchro's are interchangeable. There is a small difference and it's the FD ones are lighter. They made them lighter so the car would shift very quickly but due to this they can damage easily. The TII synchro has more mass and can take a bit more abuse in theory.
Just wanted to drop that info in case someone reads this and is tranny mauler :) |
Originally Posted by ZoomZoom
(Post 12060705)
Something to think about with synchro's. The FD and FC TII synchro's are interchangeable. There is a small difference and it's the FD ones are lighter. They made them lighter so the car would shift very quickly but due to this they can damage easily. The TII synchro has more mass and can take a bit more abuse in theory.
Just wanted to drop that info in case someone reads this and is tranny mauler :) |
Porting
Picked up the engine from IRP (over a year ago :sleep:)
Ihor's handiwork.... Aggressive street port :nod: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5229fabe1f.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ffa73c5916.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2fbeee8d48.jpg |
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