Assembling the Long Block
 

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...946f89b0c0.jpg
Fresh from IRP


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...607a2cd0cf.jpg
OMP and Primary Fuel Rail


I decided to go external OMP tank route and installed a Rotary Aviation adaptor and practically new Mikuni OMP. Since I had an extra OMP, I initially tried to tap an oil feed into that, but couldn't find a good hose barb to fit the space so just went the RA/Mikuni route. The Mikuni OMP is necessary with the RA adaptor as it's thinner. The USDM OMP with the RA adaptor is too thick for the turbos. The only problem I had with this setup was that the bolts supplied with the RA adaptor were not long enough so I had to get longer ones

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7a44d1702c.jpg


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8b36bb7799.jpg
New SS OMP lines


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...051f9d6291.jpg
Exhaust Manifold


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...47edff7cfe.jpg
No cracks!


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cb7ada058e.jpg
LIM/Turbos/Effini Y-Pipe


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...aefc69a8f2.jpg
Mazmart Remedy Water Pump


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9da994efe0.jpg
Ready for install :icon_tup:

Interested to see how your omp setup turns out. Looking good!

PITA #1: Mating the Tranny
 

No pics, but connecting the transmission to the block was a real PITA. For the life of me, I simply could not get the transmission shaft to mate with the clutch wedge collar. The ACT clutch kit came with a monoloc collar which is supposed to be an improvement over the stock wedge collar. Only problem is I could not get the transmission shaft to click into it no matter what I tried. :ponder:

Part of the problem might have been that the engine was still on the stand and I was supporting the transmission with the engine lift and I just couldn't get enough lateral pressure from the transmission against the engine, even with someone pushing against the engine. I ended up getting it mated by reversing the disassembly, I took the clutch off the flywheel and mated that to the transmission. That worked! Only problem now was getting the clutch bolted back onto the flywheel. Since the way I got the transmission separated from the engine was by accessing the flywheel bolts through the bell housing access plates, I just reversed disassembly and torqued down the bolts via same access plate. It worked, but would have been much easier if I could have gotten the transmission to mate that monoloc. What a pain. :uh:

PITA #2: Dropping the Engine
 

Thought mating the transmission was a pain, but that was a cake walk compared to dropping the engine. How hard could it be, it was fairly simple to pull, right :nod:

OMG. It took me almost all day to get that mother in. The major problem was the Xcessive motor mounts. They are like a square peg going into a round hole. Compounding this was the Banzai oil pan brace. This and the mounts increased the effective height of the engine which was enough to make the install a real bitch. I also left the DP on, because it was on when I pulled it, which was easy. I tried all kinds of angles with the engine and it was either too steep and I couldn't clear the firewall, or not steep enough and I couldn't clear the subframe. :banghead:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8dbfc8dbfa.jpg

All of this in and out trying different angles really buggered up the aluminum heat panels. Ok then, off with the DP. This helped with the DP hitting the heat panels, but I still couldn't clear the subframe w/o hitting the firewall. Alright then time to lower the subframe. I nearly had to remove it to get enough clearance to get it to fit.

Finally :us4allswi

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...700be6f850.jpg

Coming along nicely. Gonna take it to ECRC in virginia for a breakin? lol

PITA #3: Shifter Alignment
 

My short lived celebration ended when I noticed my shifter was way right in the transmission tunnel

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...985c28cbe1.jpg

Argh :scratch:

So initially I tried unbolting the subframe mounting bolts and physically moving the shifter over. No go. After some back and forth on the forum https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...nment-1085345/ thought it might be the motor mounts.

Sure enough. The Xcessive mounts I got were for the stock arms. The steel arm I have is slightly different than the stock aluminum arm. I contacted Xcessive and they got me a smaller mount

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4d41b80650.jpg

This seemed to do the trick

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5ec8b49b67.jpg

The smaller mount effectively rotated my engine/transmission counterclockwise as evidenced below. Don't think this should be a problem though. Back in business :D

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6834a55d52.jpg

PITA #2.5: Downpipe
 

Forgot to mention this one. While removing the DP made the engine install much easier, it left the tricky proposition of getting the DP on with the engine installed. The donor car came with some no name DP so I planned to use that. It had been attached with hex bolts which. I put back a couple of the studs to make it easier to hang. The problem was one of the created clearance problems, so I removed that and replaced it with a hex bolt. The next problem was getting one of the nuts installed at the bottom where there's not a lot of space between the pipe and the stud for the nut flange, esp with the heat wrap (see pic in post #56). In the end, after a multitude of stud/bolt combinations, I was able to get it installed.

[Notice in the same picture the wideband bung. AEM makes (what I think) is a nice bung that hopefully keeps the O2 sensor cooler. http://www.aemelectronics.com/produc...o2-sensor-bung]

Have to say having the right tools makes a world of difference. Assenmacher stud removers are great. This leads to...

Tools
 

Thought I had a lot of tools, but guess not enough. If you plan to work on the car yourself, plan a sizable investment for tools. While not comprehensive, below is a list of what I used

- Sockets and Ratchets (reg stubby/long, impact (stubby/long))
- Wrenches (reg and stubby)
- Torque Wrenches (3 for different torque ranges to include a 2' wrench*)
- Pliers (all sorts to incl c-clamp plyers)
- Hex Wrenches/Sockets
- Flaring Tool
- Taps/Thread Reamers
- Pullers (various to incl clutch pilot bearing puller)
- Drills and bits (to incl a right angle drill)
- Air Compressor and tools
- Various testers (compression, mityvac, coolant, fuel press)
- Grease Gun/Oil Injector
- Metal Brake
- Jig Saw
- Grinding Wheel
- Hole Saw
- Rivet Gun
- Engine Hoist/Leveler
- Engine Stand
- Screwdrivers (incl impact)
- Picks
- Bench Vise
- Clamps
- 20 Ton Press
- Jacks/Stands
- Electrical Tools (multimeter, crimpers, pin tools)
- Hose Cutter
- Breaker Bars (incl 3')
- Etc

Garage
 

....and you need a garage to put all that crap in.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...370c3fc22c.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...51dc5fc0c3.jpg

notice the sweet toolbox...

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...821239a171.jpg

Think this is like the third time I knocked this effer over :rant:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...427f3a4833.jpg

So I'll be in the same spot you were in with the engine install. So you still left the trans in and just attached the clutch through the bellhousing? Was there enough space or was that the only way you could get it to work after trying with the clutch on the engine? I feel like with the engine in such a far back position, it will cause issues for me as it was right on the front metal of the engine bay.

Yes, I pulled the transmission with the engine. I have pulled several (non-FD) engines in the past and found it easier pulling the transmission with the engine rather than unbolting the bell housing and the subsequent pain of getting the engine aligned and bolted when installing.

While getting the transmission and engine out was a relative breeze, I had issues getting the transmission mounted to the engine out of the car. I replaced the clutch with a ACT SS clutch/HD pressure plate. This came with a Monoloc wedge collar which is supposed to be an improvement

ACT Releases New One-Piece Wedge Collar for Pull-Type Clutches / ACT News // Advanced Clutch Technology

Problem was I could not get the release collar to engage the monoloc to save my life, and I'm not the only one. Part of the problem was I had the engine on a stand and was trying to mate the transmission suspended from an engine hoist. Even with one person holding the engine/stand, I could not get enough force against the engine to mate the transmission. Maybe if I tried it on the ground it would have worked.

I eventually gave up and took off the pressure plate and was able to engage just the pressure plate (with monoloc) onto the release collar. I then had to get the pressure plate bolted to the flywheel through the small inspection access port in the bell housing. Not hard, but tedious.

Finally, while getting the engine and transmission out was easy, getting them back in together was a real pain in the ass. The problem was the motor mounts and DP. I had to remove the DP and lower the subframe to get the engine back in with my motor mounts (which were elevated by a new Banzai oil pan brace).

Engine Harness
 

The obligatory engine harness rehab. I checked all wires for resistance/continuity and it checked out ok. The harness is temporary and will be replaced when I eventually go single. Even though it's temporary, and checked out, I'm still nervous that I put it back on. In the grand scheme of things, what's another $700 (or whatever a new harness goes for these days).

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c27acdf2f8.jpg

Threads that helped:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ctures-892648/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...part-s-984160/
http://www.blackgto.com/RX7/wireharness.jpg
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...dex%2A-971065/
https://www.rx7club.com/attachments/...nectors2-1.jpg

While threads are good reference, it helps to truly understand the electrical diagrams in the FSM
http://www.halfspec.com/downloads/RX...or%20Index.pdf

Cooling - Oil Coolers
 

Since overheating was cause of premature death of my 13brew, cooling was my number one priority for this build. Plan is bigger radiator, dual oil coolers, and larger bumper openings, ala 99 spec.

For the oil coolers, I opted to design my own system vs. go with the tried and true Sakebomb unit. I'm not really sure why I did this as the cost was more and it took a lot of time designing, fabricating, and cussing (I really hate fabricating).

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7264e4d27c.jpg
Dual 25 row Setrabs :nod:


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d875f7d915.jpg
Improved Racing 185F T-stat mounted on the frame


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cd9cc250b6.jpg
XRP fittings and push-loc hose

I'm a little worried about the lack of hose between the T-stat and the block. Too much vibration may break the hose or the fittings. Will keep an eye on that.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d990a44f68.jpg
T-stat hooked up. Small amount of hose wrap to protect against chaffing


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2c21318086.jpg
Sakebomb oil pedestal

The SB pedestal allows AN fittings as well as gauge ports with additional benefit of being smaller to allow use of larger 929 oil filter


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9ee375db86.jpg
Banzai oil cooler supports

Had to drastically shave down the lower outer support to get the 99 spec bumper to fit


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c244b39502.jpg
Driver side cooler installed


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7bdf6d0797.jpg
Both coolers installed


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3c7aa4e8bf.jpg
99 spec rebar interferes with the large cooler

I could have cut the rebar down, but decided against it to preserve the rebar. Will reassess this when I see what oil temps I get


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5d4e562571.jpg
99 spec bumper installed

Opening is much larger than USDM, but the aftermarket setup is offset in the opening. Not too happy about that. Will have to fab up some ducts. :banghead:

Nice setup. I went with dual r1 oil coolers with R magic ducts. Everything fit bang on.

Nothing beats stock fitment :icon_tup: It seems to me, more often than not, aftermarket is a pain in the ass. It never fits right and you need to fab something here or there.

I neglected to mention in my last post that I ran the hose from the driver side cooler to the passenger through the rebar support. The problem I had was getting the fitting on the cooler snug with the rebar in place. The angles were tight and it was pinching. What I did was to remove the rebar support from the rebar, run the hose, then attach the rebar. You can see this in the driver side picture, but I went ahead and circled it below. The circled support is normally attached to the rebar. Taking it off the rebar made installing the hose a lot easier. I used double sided tape to hold it on temporarily until I got the rebar bolted up

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...85b03c4d47.jpg

Cooling - Radiator
 

Went with a Ron Davis radiator. These used to be popular back in the day and believe RD was supplier to Mazdaspeed. This is a direct fit replacement. No mods needed :icon_tup: However, it's not cheap. If I had to do it again, would probably go with the N-flo

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...42801aa386.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bcef46c728.jpg

I also replaced all the water hoses prior to dropping the engine back in.

Good thread on cooling...

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...thread-571088/

This thing will have no excuses for getting hot. I like the 25 row coolers but went with dual 19 row and got the SakeBomb Kit. I will still have to duct them but that should be all the custom fab I need. Fourtyounce did the 25 row coolers and said it was a real chore with fitment. That was enough for me to go with the 19 row coolers. You really made it extra tough on yourself here lol.

I have the exact problem with my trans laying over. I've yet to see if it's the PPF needing proper alignment or the motor mounts. I going to try the PPF first. Crossing my fingers.

I envy your garage. I have a small garage and I'm sometimes falling over myself trying to get work done.

That line for the oil cooler thermostat from the motor looks a bit short. I would be concerned with the engine torquing over and it not having enough slack and dumping all your oil if it fails.

What would it take to dual pass that RD radiator? Not looking forward to koyo fitment issues.

While driving around to break in the engine, once the oil temps get up to 185, bam, the T-stat opens and it drop to like 165. This may actually be a little too cold, but since this will be primarily a track car I will see how the temps do in that environment. And yes, fitment was a little bit of a problem, but it did fit with the 99 bumper after I ground down the hangers. I think I'm making this entire build tough on myself :lol:

Yeah, I tried messing with the PPF but that never seemed to help. Did you replace the stock AL motor mount arm with a steel one? Think that's the culprit (combined with an oil pan brace and aftermarket mounts). The steel arm looks to be different thickness than the AL one which would mess with the alignment.

Arlington VA is a compact suburb but I'm fortunate enough to have enough space for a somewhat decent garage (but not a 2 car attached). I had it built, but didn't have enough foresight to build it high enough for a lift. :banghead:

I'm concerned as well. When I installed it, I was guessing on placement of future adds (oil catch can, AI, etc) and tried to account for that as well as keep clear of the steering linkage. Now that it's all back together, I will probably relook at the routing. I'm not too worried though as I doubt the engine will twist that much with the xcessive mounts and banzai transmission brace.

I think it's a dual pass, but not positive. It's perfect fitment, but is not cheap (shipped costs is ~ $600). Think you only need to mess with one tab (if that) on the Koyo to get it to fit.

glad to hear its up and moving around. Eventually ill change out this trans and be able to drive mine lol

Looking really good :) did you fix that oil cooler alignment ?
we want some pics !! :P

Unfortunately there's no real way to move the cooler inward due to the brackets. I do need to duct them but will wait to see what the temps are first. They are pretty close to the bumper so not much air is bypassing the top and bottom, it's only getting by through that gap.

Brakes - MC
 

Figuring I will probably upgrade to a BBK, I went ahead and upgraded to a 929 MC when I had the engine out.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2b34fdd54f.jpg

You have to bend some custom brake line (circled) because the stock line in that location is a banjo fitting. Also went ahead and installed an IRP MC brace (to the right of the MC).

[And the crap on the shock tower is gasket material to keep the shock tower strut bar from scratching the paint]

After I got the MC mounted with custom brake line fabricated, found out about this... :(

Master Cylinders - chipsmotorsports

Costs more than a stock 929 MC, but you can use the stock banjo fitting. Worth it in my book

Don't forget to bleed the MC too...

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...29bfcd8d5e.jpg

Yeah someone posted that in my thread after I bought my 929 MC so I sold my 929 MC and went to buy Chips and he raised the price up. Maybe enough that I may be up for making my own brake line again. Lol
I've yet to repurchase a MC. BBK will have to wait since I started buying a bunch of expensive rotary specific bling parts.

PITA #3 - Rats Nest
 

Really, this was not that much of a pain, just meticulous. Important thing is when using silicone, which is not formed, is to not crimp it when everything is mashed back down under the UIM. The red color was chosen because I really hate having a matching color scheme (actually I used as much as I could off the donor car which was red - I'm really more into function vs form)

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6273abe210.jpg

Couple of resources that really helped me out:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...our-fd-904277/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-stuff-802060/

I went through all my solenoids and actuators and even though the car had 60k, half my solenoids tested bad hot and as well as my turbo actuator. If you're testing your solenoids, make sure you test them hot.

Before putting that rat's nest back on, I covered the block with a DEI heat blanket. I'm having second thoughts about spilled oil getting on it tho. Next time i'm down there, i'll rip it out

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...82428ea6dd.jpg

Also installed an IRP oil neck. These things are a work of art. Went with the dual -6 AN fittings, but now wish I got the -10. Eventually, i'll probably go single and could feed one of the lines to the rear oil return so think i'll keep it. The oil cap is Super Now that I picked up from RHD Japan when I got a bunch of other stuff.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...363a13c565.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5e7426a825.jpg

Oops
 

Here's the con for silicone. Good thing I noticed this (turbo actuator)

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d0e9697399.jpg

PITA #4: Shifter Engagement
 

So went to install my new REA shifter and was stoked at finally starting to the light at the end of the tunnel :celebrate

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9c72521fa0.jpg

Then I went to try to move it and it wouldn't budge out of 1st.

F^%%$!!!!

Can't believe this. This was like around 10 pm and I just wanted to get this thing done. I've been working on it for well over 18 months and wanted to get to the end.

I knew I screwed something up when I redid my synchro, so I was looking at having to pull the transmission out and break it down to figure out what I did wrong. This was extremely depressing to say the least :crying:

Of course I couldn't end the day like this, so I had to get to a place where I was in a better shape. I decided instead of pulling the transmission, I could get the extension housing off with the transmission on the car. Holy crap was this a pain. It might have been easier than pulling the transmission, but had to get all the sensors off as well as the shift select spindle and the opposing spring as well as the the upper mounting bolts (which are a lot harder to access than the upper bell housing bolts). Oh, and on top of that, another bout of automobile bodily fluid all over the place.

The problem was I didn't have the control rod (#15) correctly mated to the doglegs

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e228a1d284.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bed0dafb6e.jpg

And in the process of wrestling with that under jack stands at around 2 am in a really pissed off mood, I broke a rib :eek:

A couple days later, I got the extension housing back on and mated correctly.

Lesson learned: Make sure things work before you put them back together and if you F something up, give it some time before you deal with it.

No A/C!
 

The large condenser before the radiator can't help with cooling, so I yanked it. Also gained some room in the engine bay for an oil catch can or coil relocation. I really can't stand A/C so this was a no brainer.

I left the evaporator in for now (capped off),

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d9b95a3f31.jpg

but scored one of the last, if not last, evaporator delete ducts for if and when I decide to remove the evaporator

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9c3c150d78.jpg

I have a bunch of the caps left over (you can't get just a couple from McMaster Carr) and will ship for cost of shipping. PM me if interested (PNs are 84735K93 & 84735K95)

Exhaust
 

While titanium is awesome, goal on this build is the 85% solution. To me, the benefits aren't worth the cost. Instead went with a used Peter Farrell exhaust and barely used Bonez high flow cat. The mild steel downpipe came with the donor car so I painted it with exhaust paint and went crazy with DEI titanium wrap (ok, I did go with titanium)

Weight savings is around 35 lbs not counting weight of exhaust wrap and paint

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...be57bae2cf.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b17b7d04f4.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a2e7601483.jpg

OMP Tank
 

As mentioned in post #51, I went with the Rotary Aviation OMP adapter.

https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post12063132

Now, I just needed to figure out how to feed it. I mounted an aluminum expansion tank to a thick piece of aluminum tapped to the frame rail.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6b13834486.jpg

Doesn't look pretty, but hope it does the job (function over form). Only concern is with the tank full, there may be tendency for the tank to create a moment where the plate is bolted to the frame which may work the bolts loose. I'll probably zip tie the top of the plate to provide a little added stability to the top.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...81fcf09519.jpg

I am using Legend ZX-2SR for both the OMP tank and pre-mix.

ZX-2SR | Legend Performance Inc.

When you say you broke a rib, it wasn't your own right?

It was. Certainly a low point on the build. More so because of the transmission, but this was definitely icing on that shit cake

Oil Catch Can
 

Had a catch can before. It was an ebay el cheapo, but it worked. Problem it only held a pint or so and I was emptying it after every run

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2ae110c182.jpg

Since I've got some added real estate from pulling the A/C and PS, decided to go with a bigger unit (did I just say that???). The space next to the vacuum chamber seemed like a perfect spot, and there's already a couple mounting points

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b8c5bd544b.jpg

Fabbed up another mounting plate. Problem was the vacuum chamber protruded ever so slightly that I had to cut a cutout

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...15753ecb0d.jpg

and a nut behind to keep it straight

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f697ffb2a4.jpg

With the added space, I now can go with a larger can. I wanted a quart capacity with baffles and some kind of level indicator. Problem is there's not a lot of baffled cans out there and most are rather pricey (Radium & Mishimoto) or too small. Decided to get a Prosport. It fits all my criteria except it does not have a sight glass or dipstick. Oh well, guess i'll have to figure out how often I need to dump it through trial and error.

Prosport billet Aluminum baffled Oil Catch can - Black. Vented Dual Baffled Oil Catch Can

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...45786381ec.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...941b58b5cb.jpg

Mounted...

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a62c1b045c.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...97b5c5c9df.jpg

Another problem was routing the hoses. I wanted to go with rubber due to it's resiliency to oil, but I already had a silicone hose connected to the metal tube that runs under the UIM/rat's nest to the primary turbo and I couldn't get to that w/o a lot of removal. Figured if the can was doing it's job, it would only be vapor and not oil going through this line so I left it silicone until I have an opportunity to get down there. Only other problem was the size of the hose. Had to go with an adaptor to bump up the size to fit the 3/8 barb fitting on the can.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d18cfee42e.jpg

You should just do the evap core now, took me maybe 20 minutes to put the one I got from you in and just needed to take out the glove box. The hardest part is just the one nut at the top but I got it with an extension. Funny how you took all your out and I am putting it all in mine.. ~__~

Did you notice the aftermarket steering rack bushings? Driven the car since installing?
I have pretty decent access to mine at the moment. Oh wait that's a manual rack?

Unfortunately instead of cutting to the chase, I take the journey (because I'm a masochist)

Went with the Super Pro bushings all around except for the front sway bar which I went the same as yours but got the installed zerk fittings (similar to the below). Super Pro does not make non-standard bushing sizes (could be special ordered??)

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8eb7e3d1b0.jpg

Emissions/Intake
 

In Northern Va, emissions are required until 25 yrs when you can register as an antique. That pretty much means stock intake, cat, and air pump. I've got a '94, so that means I've got 2 more emissions tests to pass. I decided to keep the stock ECU, intake, cat and air pump to pass my second to last emissions. Also the stock ECU will tell me if I screwed up anything putting it back together. On the next one, i'll take more risk (aftermarket ECU, intake, and cat)

All that said, I thought I could get by on the stock ECU and pass emissions with the PFS exhaust and a "cheap bastard intake"

So I proceeded to cut up my intake ala https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...intake-628764/, but w/o the fresh air duct

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...faec5706d4.jpg

Uim
 

The UIM runners were pretty grody, so I honed them with a flex hone (Flex Hone, Cylinder Hone)

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...62c92cf747.jpg

To keep the UIM from getting heat soaked, I glued some heat fabric to the underbelly. I also installed a Triumph fast acting IAT sensor.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8787c4f27b.jpg

Ignition
 

Went tried and true HKS Twin Power. This should be adequate for my current config (stock twins)

Mounted on the firewall behind the cruz control

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a3cbe757c4.jpg

And glued some rubber to isolate vibrations (a little?)

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7f80c0bdbe.jpg

A break from the build
 

If you have never been to the Rolex Reunion at Leguna Seca, I highly recommend it.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5a20dd5751.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f91e9483f3.jpg

The Mazda tent...

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e5bc28336f.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...32c1968e8c.jpg
Did not know the Spirit R was LHD

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f0cc4fda6c.jpg
767B

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...729350a767.jpg
787

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e1b46ab362.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...568ad0df3a.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...32b4b2a476.jpg
RX-7 GTO

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7d9ff50ccc.jpg
792-P

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7e13afc2b3.jpg

...and they raced them
 

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4a8b8cc5c9.jpg


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a4d7083204.jpg



https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...173bbc1e5b.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...83d4b72969.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...10575c97d5.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f88eac01ac.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7bef28aff7.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a9caacb057.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5373e2c931.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...18b8cf35f9.jpg

Even more
 

I have no idea how many hundreds of millions of dollars worth of cars doing what they were intended to do

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ca1ca4a347.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...678e48bfe9.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0ab8a3ed32.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e1586e2b72.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9409cb4bb0.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4d93a10b69.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b56ce90349.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...35376420e9.jpg



https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...dab51153d2.jpg


Getting gas...

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c0f5730d24.jpg

The more mundane cars were relegated to the parking lot...

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ff6a53758c.jpg

Went last year. What a great event! Did you go to concours?

Nope. Those guys are posers

More on the Mazda cars...

Motorsports Journal: Motorsport News, e-Media Headline News

Ecu
 

Back to the build. Went with tried and true PFC and Datalogit. May update to a more modern ECU when I go single, but for stock twins, this is the way to go.

Got the TurboJeff PFC holder. That's certainly a well crafted item
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bd1a920b5f.jpg

And got a patch harness since I did not want to cut the factory harness
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d2edbe9e06.jpg

All buttoned up
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2d2d984336.jpg

It Started!
 

:rock:

Unfortuneatly, haven't figured out how to embed a video :scratch:

Pulled out of the garage under it's own power for the first time in over 2 years....

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e623ddc865.jpg

and another GD leak....

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...552afcec1a.jpg

That's progress right thur.

It's a game of inches :lol:

Idle
 

So I put back on the stock ECU and cat on to pass emissions but it produced a real lumpy idle and bucking around 2k. This wasn't too surprising since it had an aggressive street port. What was surprising, was it passed emissions :blue:

Passing emissions, I reinstalled the PFC and exhaust. While the idle smoothed out somewhat, it surged from 500 to 1300 rpms. I played with the bleed air and got it somewhat stable (but high). What I really need is a tune :icon_tup: