I had the left rear wheel bearing replaced about 17,000 miles ago when a rear wheel stud broke. You have to press out the wheel bearing to replace the studs and you can't press the bearing out without destroying it.
I noticed last weekend that the left rear spindle seemed loose when I was changing tires. Sure enough the wheel bearing was shot. Seems to me it would be quite impossible to eat a bearing so quickly so I figure the machine shop I had do the work at the time damaged the new bearing when they installed it. Now that I have my own hydraulic press replacing the bearing was a cinch; I finished in an hour and a half.
The rear wheel bearing is a typical sealed bearing with a split inner race. The bearing presses into the upright and then the spindle presses into the bearing. To remove the bearing have someone hold the brakes and bust the 35mm axle nut loose (I use a 24" breaker bar with a 36" length of pipe on the end). I don't bother to unstake the nut because it takes so much force to remove the nut I find you don't need to. If the axle has never been removed from the spindle it will most likely stick and refuse to come out. Soak the axle splines liberally with penetrating oil and try to hammer the axle out after letting it sit. If it still refuses to budge heat the spindle with a torch and try tapping it out again. Mine came out this time with just a few hard whacks of the hammer since it had been apart just a couple years ago and I was careful to clean the rust off when I reassmebled at the time. The axle and spindle are raw steel and surface corrosion tends to form on the splines and make them stick. Same as what happens when the brake rotors stick to the spindle.
Once the axle is loose of the spindle remove the brake caliper and the rotor. Then remove the abs sensor and the bolt through the outer toe control bushing. Now remove the upper and lower bolts on the upright which pass through the pillowball bushings. You now have the upright with its wheel bearing and spindle free of the car.
First the spindle has to be pressed out and this will destroy the wheel bearing as it must seperate for the spindle to come out. It doesn't take much force to get the spindle out and I just supported the upright on the press with a couple blocks of wood. Press the spindle out using a socket just smaller in diameter than the spindle and the spindle will pop out right away. You'll notice that one of the inner races of the wheel bearing is still attached to the spindle. Set it aside for now.
With the spindle out you now see a large c-clip which holds the wheel bearing in the upright. Remove the clip. Support the upright in the press once again and drive the bearing out by using a socket large enough to press against the outer of the bearing. Always remove/install bearings by only pressing them from their outer edges or you will damage them! My bearing acted stuck at first but once it broke free it pressed out easily.
Thoroughly clean the bearing bore of the upright as well as the groove the c-clip sits in. Now it's time to press in the new bearing. I used the remains of the old bearing to press the new one in. Do not ever press on anything but the outer diameter of the bearing or you will damage it! The new bearing will press easily into the upright; be certain it's driving in square. Once the bearing is seated fully insert the c-clip to hold it in place.
Now you have to remove the bearing race that is stuck to your spindle. The FSM says to grind a notch most of the way through the race and then use a hammer and chisel to break the race off the spindle. I was able to remove mine with a bearing seperator and a gear puller without much trouble. Once the old bearing race is removed the spindle is ready to be installed. You might consider replacing the wheel studs before installing the spindle; they hammer out easily.
Since the spindle presses into the inner race of the bearing you want to support the inner race when the spindle is installed or risk damage to the bearing. I supported the inner race from the rear with a suitable socket sitting on the press and then pressed in the spindle. It will slip in pretty easily. It is my theory that this is how the shop damaged my old bearing. If you don't support the inner race when you press the spindle in then the race will try and seperate slightly from the bearing. This will destroy the bearing quickly.
All done, just install the upright back on the car. Be certain to use a new axle nut. The nut is so tight that they are normally slightly damaged whenever they are removed.
I jacked the car up and removed the rear wheel at 4:30 and had the car off the stands by 6. The only real hurdle in the entire project is getting the axle free of the spindle as they usually stick. This project could easily take twice as long if you have trouble getting the axle free. I had one stick so bad a while back that I mushroomed the end in trying to hammer it out. Don't do that
if the axle doesn't turn loose after half a dozen hard whacks I would try heating it with a torch. I had to grind the "mushroom" off the axle at the time in order to install the axle nut again.