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Dang sorry to hear. What are the plans?
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Damn man. I got furloughed today so this news doesn't make me feel any better.
What happened and what's the plan? |
Warped seals is my guess.
Shipped it up to IRP https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b93908e6b9.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9a98cbfe31.jpg |
Tom I do not see where your pre mixing. I remember a thread you had for an omp mod, but are you premixing?
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Yes. I have a Rotary Aviation dedicated OMP feed (think there is a post somewhere in this on that) as well as pre-mix. Using Legend ZX2-SR, because you can't have too many Zs or Rs or 2s in what ever you use :ylsuper:
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Gotcha.
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A dedicated OMP feed is probably overkill BTW. There's blah blah this and blah blah that about oils and using synthetic in a rotary. If it's quality oil and you change if frequently, you probably don't need a dedicated feed.
Then of course, there's always overkill :nod: |
Originally Posted by TomU
(Post 12405812)
A dedicated OMP feed is probably overkill BTW. There's blah blah this and blah blah that about oils and using synthetic in a rotary. If it's quality oil and you change if frequently, you probably don't need a dedicated feed.
Then of course, there's always overkill :nod: I am running a test at my home in a few days. I want to see how idemitsu burns vs say castrol. Depending on the results is what I will run since I am still all over on type of oil lol. I will probably be breaking it in with pennzoil 40 then running idemitsu and idemitsu pre mix. Probably premixing a lot. I looked into the separate omp tank, but I change the oil so often I am not sure if it will be worth the extra $. well, I hope your housings look good. Good luck with the build! |
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Originally Posted by TomU
(Post 12405896)
I just expected you to get a little more life out of your engine as your build is a cooling monster. I guess we won't really know till you crack it open. |
Coronavirus Downtime
Rebuild the Norton
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...335fb1c17e.jpg Or tear down the old block? https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...671d06a41a.jpg |
Ahhhh man, that is a tough one. To be honest if I had another block and my car was away I would build the bike. Especially if the car hinders space for rebuilding the bike.
I look fwd to the day I have another block on standby though. I say bike!! Looks pretty badass. Btw. I am running out of projects that don't cost any real $. I am too skeeeerd to spend. Damn this virus. I may order my head unit for the car and finish that. I have everything except a 4 channel amp and head unit. Hmmmmm |
That’s a sweet bike.
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Where can I find parts
I'm kinda new to all this and I have no clue where to buy parts for a 1993. The few websites I've found have most of the parts discontinued so I've hit a wall. I'm looking for interior and exterior body parts and I was hoping some of the more experienced users could help point me in the right direction for places to buy parts. Thanks in advance for any info provided
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Originally Posted by Testrun
(Post 12406160)
To be honest if I had another block and my car was away I would build the bike.
Originally Posted by Testrun
(Post 12406160)
I am running out of projects that don't cost any real $.
Originally Posted by Testrun
(Post 12406160)
I may order my head unit for the car and finish that. I have everything except a 4 channel amp and head unit. Hmmmmm
Originally Posted by Caleb Anderson
(Post 12407327)
I'm kinda new to all this and I have no clue where to buy parts for a 1993. The few websites I've found have most of the parts discontinued so I've hit a wall. I'm looking for interior and exterior body parts and I was hoping some of the more experienced users could help point me in the right direction for places to buy parts. Thanks in advance for any info provided
If you are looking for stock OEM, contact Ray Crowe (you can search for his email on the forum). He was the parts manager at a Mazda dealer and knows FD parts in his sleep. For used, there are several members that part out cars. Get your post count up and then post a Wanted to Buy post for what specific part you need. And read up as much as you can (but take everything with a grain of salt). If you have any questions, post them. You will get an answer |
Thank you very much
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Since the car is in the shop, i have nothing to post. Other than comics (which for some reason is required posting material)
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...24f40d602c.jpg And my bike After about 30 kicks, some starting fluid, and some backfires, she starts! After about 30 kicks, some starting fluid, and some backfires, she starts! |
Tom, how is life? You figure out why the seals warp? Was it too much heat or am I limited on my milage with the seals? Any other word on the build?
Did you ever re wite the fuel pump? I have Sakebomb's harness coming and will be doing it before the tune. It idles great now and I hope it doesn't change too much. |
Don't think IRP has started working on it yet. Until they do i'm assuming heat was what did in my seals. Plan to go with the I-Rotary seals. Hope they do better. Did not rewire the pump. That was next on the to-do list before the seals went. Personally, not sure a relay is needed if the wiring to the pump is upgraded as well as the ignition bypass
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Originally Posted by TomU
(Post 12428732)
Don't think IRP has started working on it yet. Until they do i'm assuming heat was what did in my seals. Plan to go with the I-Rotary seals. Hope they do better. Did not rewire the pump. That was next on the to-do list before the seals went. Personally, not sure a relay is needed if the wiring to the pump is upgraded as well as the ignition bypass
I just recieved my Sakebomb's harness a few min ago. With your power level why not stick with oem seals? I forgot your reasoning. I was thinking about it, but the thought of brand new turbos getting possibly shredded made my decision. |
Going 8374 so i'm guessing high 300 HP. More than that, other stuff starts breaking :bigthumb:
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Are you going iw? Are you going to make any other changes to your set up?
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Originally Posted by Red94fd
(Post 12428784)
Are you going iw? Are you going to make any other changes to your set up?
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Cool man..
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Hey Tom hope all is good. Just to let you know I was running g a bit lean on the top end with the dyno we just did. I believe it was for fuel pump wire in tank. I told you I did the Sakebomb's rewire, but I never changed the wires in tank. I was just thinking of your issue. I wonder if that was a possible cause of you warping the seals..... maybe you were running lean on the top end also.
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Not sure, but i doubt it. It was tuned fairly rich at load which i would assume would account for any voltage drops. However, you really should rewire the in-tank wiring to include the bulkhead connector. I was about to do that before i lost compression
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The Damage
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Just a thought as we were/are tuning rich, but I don't think it will compensate for low voltage. (Of course wth do I know?).
What's your opinion on those seals now that you see the damage? The rotor housing looks like it got raped. Thanks for the pics btw! BTW the leanness I was speaking about was intermittent and was only towards the end of the session. Like something got heated up. It was rock solid at the beginning. Speaking about AFR and FP |
Looks amazing.. soooo..clean...
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You’re going to be rippin with that setup Tom. Very similar to my setup. It looks beautiful btw. I’m hoping those seals work out for you! Your housings look terrible. Worrisome for me as I’m running RXparts seals as well. God luck with the build Sir.
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Ihor thinks it was lack of pre-mix. I was using 1 oz/gal and OMP, but the meth may have washed it out. He recommended Klotz for meth injection https://klotzlube.com/shop/ols/produ...er-techniplate. I dunno about brands making that big of a difference tho. IMO it may be amount of premix and maybe just maybe, the seals. That said, 80% of the mileage on the ODO is WOT. RXparts seals are probably fine for the street.
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Hmmmm, well that seems a bit strange to me. (The lack of premix that is). I often wondered about the meth or even water washing away any lube, but then again it seems like the process of combustion would be so fast it wouldn't matter much. I am still thinking the seals. I will up to maybe 1.5 oz per gal on mine as I was thinking about that before your issue. I am also wondering if a thicker oil on your omp may be better with a meth injection. Either way I am excited for your new build and am sure it will be a wicked setup! Looks awesome and promising!
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I had been wondering the same thing with water/meth and pre mix. I use a 1.3 ratio. I will try 1.5 from now on.
What nozzel size were you using on your water system , Tom? |
I was using the medium jet (500cc/min) with the controller coming on at 7 psi and full at 11 psi. Meth mix was 50/50 by volume. Ihor told me i should have been mixing 2 oz/gal (with the OMP) for track conditions.
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Tom I don't recall if you tuned with the injection, pretty sure you did not. Also did you have any issues with the 500 nozzle? I am still on the smallest as I read the twins can be overwhelmed by the 500 even though the aem manual states 500 for our power output level.
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It was tuned with the injection, but i was only pushing 12 psi so it wasn't like i was using meth to get a lot of boost. As for the nozzle size, you bring up an in interesting thought. Wonder if there are differences between a rotary (essentially 2 cycle) and a 4-cycle piston IRT the AEM chart which is probably based on piston engines. Need to think about that one
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Wonder if there are differences between a rotary (essentially 2 cycle) and a 4-cycle piston IRT the AEM chart which is probably based on piston engines. Need to think about that one[/QUOTE]
I was wondering the same. Off my small nozzle I definitely lower the intake temp (mostly just the affect of it hitting the sensor probably), but no idea what it is doing internally if anything. I am sure it helps. I just started to add a little meth and will see how it affects the afr. I should have a better understanding of what's going on after that if anything will register on the gauge. |
Bike= Awesome
Engine= Awesome Very cool to see this coming back together! Are you going to break in before a power tune or just go for it? |
Hey Tom hope all is well. Any progress on the bike or the rebuild?
Not to kick a dead horse, but did you have the "coated" apex seals? I have the coated seals myself. I was just thinking that it is inevitable the coating will wear off. When it does I am sure it isn't pretty. Awesome for drag, but street or road racing maybe not. |
IRP is saying Dec, "maybe" :sad:
I'm going with the I-Rotary seals. I don't think there's any additional coating and i've never heard of such a process. If there is coating for seals, I'd think it'd have to be ceramic due to the high temps. And just like ceramic seals, i'd think it'd be brittle and potentially prone to breaking. Not sure the adhesion if it were to break. Unlike a solid ceramic seal, the coating may stay adhered to the seal. The bike is completely broken down (every single part on it) and has taken the form of boxes in my basement. Goal is to have it put back together by next summer. That thing is going to cost almost as much as the 7 :eek: |
Originally Posted by TomU
(Post 12489444)
IRP is saying Dec, "maybe" :sad:
I'm going with the I-Rotary seals. I don't think there's any additional coating and i've never heard of such a process. If there is coating for seals, I'd think it'd have to be ceramic due to the high temps. And just like ceramic seals, i'd think it'd be brittle and potentially prone to breaking. Not sure the adhesion if it were to break. Unlike a solid ceramic seal, the coating may stay adhered to the seal. The bike is completely broken down (every single part on it) and has taken the form of boxes in my basement. Goal is to have it put back together by next summer. That thing is going to cost almost as much as the 7 :eek: |
Originally Posted by Testrun
(Post 12489446)
Are they really that busy?
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Originally Posted by TomU
(Post 12036692)
Got them from a forum member. Probably not that hard to fab with some basic tools (may not look as nice). Think the hardest would be getting the dimple in the pipe. Next time I have the brakes off, will pull them off and draw up a template.
Originally Posted by TomU
(Post 12065422)
No pics, but connecting the transmission to the block was a real PITA. For the life of me, I simply could not get the transmission shaft to mate with the clutch wedge collar. The ACT clutch kit came with a monoloc collar which is supposed to be an improvement over the stock wedge collar. Only problem is I could not get the transmission shaft to click into it no matter what I tried. :ponder:
Part of the problem might have been that the engine was still on the stand and I was supporting the transmission with the engine lift and I just couldn't get enough lateral pressure from the transmission against the engine, even with someone pushing against the engine. I ended up getting it mated by reversing the disassembly, I took the clutch off the flywheel and mated that to the transmission. That worked! Only problem now was getting the clutch bolted back onto the flywheel. Since the way I got the transmission separated from the engine was by accessing the flywheel bolts through the bell housing access plates, I just reversed disassembly and torqued down the bolts via same access plate. It worked, but would have been much easier if I could have gotten the transmission to mate that monoloc. What a pain. :uh: On the topic of the new build, you're going to love that turbo setup. I have the same turbo but with the Turbosource short runner manifold, and it's my favorite setup yet. Good job on the build! |
Just catching up on this thread…
A couple questions 1. What weight oil do you run on track? 2. Any smoking with a working omp and 1 oz a gallon? That seems like plenty of premix. In fact that’s what I run normally. The new motor looks great, so clean and shiny 😁 |
Man December!! Didn’t you bring This to them last year? I’m prob going to be dropping mine off to them this winter since my coolant seal decided it had enough. Planning on going I’m with those same apex seals too
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Originally Posted by speedjunkie
(Post 12490197)
You're the only other person I've ever seen with this gauge pod. I bought one but only used it for a short time.
Originally Posted by silverTRD
(Post 12490541)
Just catching up on this thread…
A couple questions 1. What weight oil do you run on track? 2. Any smoking with a working omp and 1 oz a gallon? That seems like plenty of premix. In fact that’s what I run normally. 2. Don't really recall. Think there may have been slight smoking at start up
Originally Posted by almcbs
(Post 12490621)
I’m prob going to be dropping mine off to them this winter since my coolant seal decided it had enough. Planning on going I’m with those same apex seals too
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https://mazdatrix.com/i-rotary-steel-apex-seals-review/
Of course they sell these, but I thought it was cool. |
Tom I just skimmed through your thread again and must have missed your old fuel setup. Where you stock?
Have you 100% decided on your new setup? |
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