Well..... That escalated quickly.

LOL, well bottom line is its fine- just needs a catch can or intake/exhaust scavenged sump.

Mazda's allowable side seal gap is huge and people have been porting wrong since the 70s damaging side seal corners and the engines run fine.

 

The "problem" will decrease drastically when a different ECU is installed and tuned. I love the Pettit ECU but this is one if its downsides.

 

ok small update, i bought a used Haltech platinum sport 1000 ECU from a forum member, and i pulled the trigger on a Ludwig engine wiring harness.

the plan is to use the PS1000 box until the haltech Elite has rotary support (as the ECUs use the same plug), then just swap ECU boxes and have all of the Elite functionality. ludwig is building me a harness to make this possible with the elite ecu i'll be running drive-by-wire with a FFE DBW kit (including launch control and cruise control) and several other cool things. the DBW is pretty exciting, but really the main thing i like about the ECU is the long-term fuel trim table, which i was doing manually with my PS1K datalogs via excel pivot tables...

i'll probably have to use the PS1K for 2-3 months until Haltech gets their S together and makes the Elite have timing split.

i'll post an update next week. such excitements!

 

^ I was curious by what you posted here. I find it interesting and obviously more contemporary to incorporate a DBW but I was wondering how you were going to go about it.

Are you going to run the FFE adapter plate with a GM throttle body? Or, are you going to run the stock TB and run something that haltech sells?

You've perked my interest on the haltech elite series (2500) ecu. It seems to be pretty incredible by what haltech is saying it can do.

 

i'm planning to use the FFE adapter plate, a GM DBW throttle body, and a custom (or the IRP) oil filler neck.

also, i'm hoping to run the 1500 series of the elite ecu, which is rumored, and would be a slightly watered down version of the 2500 (like the PS1000 vs PS2000).

 

No rumor about it. Haltech was showing the Elite 1500 at PRI.

 

^ah, i wasnt sure if your info was discovered via SEMA show of not. thanks

 

ok, while waiting on my harness from ludwig i decided to do some small work to the car, including:

re-wrap the charging/ignition harness and re-do the main engine ground

install 850 primaries (stock rail bored for the stock 850 secondaries)
remove FPD and install barb fitting
install new injector diffusers
install new injector grommets for the primary rail to iron

hopefully i'll have my nice ludwig haltech harness this week and i'll do a nice update next weekend


here are some pics.

 

a few more pics:

 

Well done!

I should have used that tape when redoing mine. There's always next time, lol.

Always nice to see oil in your OMP lines huh?

Looking good buddy.

 

that is 3m friction tape (3m # 1755) i got on amazon for like $2 a roll... it's great stuff. it's really not necessary, but i thought it looked nice. i'm not sure what other benefits (if any) friction tape provides. i know most high quality german cars in the 90s used it on all their wiring harnesses though.

 

I've used friction tape in the past. Nice stuff I still prefer the plain electrical tape cause it's easier to wipe clean. Looking good.

 

How you like these coilovers compare to Stance?

 

Any noticeable differences after cleaning up the charging harness?

 

They are much nicer for the street. The 12k/10k is just too damn hard to cruise around in. We'll see if they are stiff enough at the track this spring though

 

I had already sold my engine harness and pettit ecu before pulling the charge harness and re-doing the ground harness and cleaning it up.
There were no broken wires or anything, but the main ground wire was in pretty bad shape on the engine end. And it was bolted to the engine with a little m6 10mm bolt, onto a painted iron.

 

I found that running a dedicated ground wire (6 ga) from battery directly to chassis helped a lot with my car since the stock grounding scheme isn't exactly ideal.

 

helped in what way? something you could actually notice, or even measure?
i noticed absolutely no difference when adding a large ground straight from the battery to the chassis.

 

My radio stopped turning off when I pushed on the brake peddle

My car was just inadequately grounded in the first place, as you know, the PO didn't exactly give me a sturdy foundation to work with.

 

current status of the FD:





i should have the nice new ludwig harness by next weekend. pretty excited

 

i did a little piddly work tonight; i made an aluminum bracket for the GM 3 bar MAP sensor and mounted it to the UIM. nice and clean.

not as nice as AX75F92's bracket, but it'll do





nice little straight shot vacuum line for the MAP sensor

 

I need to copy you on a few things, and now is the time while the motor is going back in. Namely the primary rail grommets and redoing the charging harness. Just longevity mods really, lol. One step beyond reliability mods. hehe Why did you remove the FPD since you have the ability to keep it?

Also, why the switch to DBW?

 

i removed the FPD because the modified primary rail i bought (modded for 850cc injectors) already had it removed. i didnt want to go through the trouble of removing the FPD from my previous fuel rail and installing it onto my new rail.

also, running DBW gives you the ability to do some really cool stuff, like cruise control, idle control, traction control, launch control, etc. this also allows you to ditch stuff like the archaic BAC and the cable-type cruise control actuator, which will free up that driver side firewall corner of the engine bay.

 

another sweet pic of my engine, from underneath, a problem i noticed when reinstalling my charge harness.

so i have no oil level sensor. #addictedperformance





yea

 

And looks like an oil leak to go with it ?