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Not sure if you are aware of this or not, but the EFR compressor housings can be cut down to utilize a v band connection instead of welding a cast elbow or using a silicon elbow to make some bends. I didn't know that when I made my piping and wish I did before I tore in to it lol. Build is looking great, you'll be very happy with this turbo!
Thanks for mentioning this - I only became aware of this option two days ago. Had I know earlier I would have already had the compressor housing cut/machined. If I am unable to get a clean setup using standard straight couplers and the preformed pipes, I will pull the housing off and make this happen.
It's been a little while since I've updated this. Work was exceptionally busy in February, so not much time to work on it on weekdays. Also managed to have plans nearly every weekend, so no time to mess with it then, either. Fortunately, March has been a little less hectic.
I threw her on my trailer to take her to a local shop for some TIG work on the IC piping. Loaded it the night before and she was running great. When I got to the shop the the next morning, I went to start it to unload off the trailer - go figure, only running on one rotor. lol It was good enough to limp it off the trailer and make it over to the shop bay. After the work was done, I went to start it and it just wouldn't run. A Good Samaritan hanging out around the shop grabbed a jumper box to help the effort and this somehow managed to blow my main fuse. I'm suspicious that the cables were hooked up backwards when he turned the power on to the jumper . Ended up pushing it back onto the trailer to take her back home.
I checked over every fuse and opened up the ECU to look for anything burnt. Fortunately, everything was good. After replacing the main fuse I powered on ignition and everything seemed normal. I turned it over a few times to and found that it still wouldn't start. Pulled the spark plugs to check for spark, and it was there, but pretty weak. Checking resistance on the coils showed that the leading was ok, but trailing coils were out of FSM spec. Put it all back together and tried again to confirm no start. Just for fun, I decided to hook up the Twin Power expecting no change... low and behold, it started right up! Proof that these things are indeed effective!
With concerns over the the integrity of my stock ignition components, I decided to order some IGN-1A coils (Twin Power up for sale soon).
Despite all of that, I now have functional intercooler piping. Next things to do are figure out a decent air filter setup (FFE idler pulley prevents me from putting a filter directly on the compressor housing) and secure my battery. Then it's time to put some break-in miles on this thing.
Time really has a way of flying by... I can't believe my last update was March of last year. I stopped updating this thread as I focused on what I thought was a problem with the engine - it seemed to be consuming more oil than typical. Anyway, after changing the oil and giving it more miles at higher engine loads, the problem completely went away. I think maybe it wasn't much of a problem to begin with, but I made it out to be something major.
At any rate, the car is an absolute blast and has been super reliable. I drive the car nearly every day (functioning A/C, heat, power steering, and power windows FTW) and have managed to put several thousand miles on this setup. I've reached a point where I'm just able to enjoy the car without having to worry about the next major fix/upgrade. I there's anything I do, it might be to get some more aggressive brake pads. Also, I’d like to get an EBC dialed in (have an AEM TruBoost, just no boost solenoid installed) – for now, I'm using a MBC to keep it simple.
Here's a summary of everything up to this point:
Powertrain, Exhaust, and Fuel OEM 13B-REW, stock-port/unmodified Borg Warner IWG EFR 8374 w/ inconel turbine housing heat shield Turblown Engineering investment cast 347 SS turbo manifold Turblown Engineering 3” 304 SS downpipe Bonez resonated mid-pipe Racing Beat twin-tip cat-back exhaust Banzai-Racing block-off plates (double throttle, ACV, split air, EGR, AWS deleted; ISC retained) FFE idler pulley kit RP SS braided OMP lines FFE fuel rail step-up kit w/ ID2000 secondary injectors, new OEM 550cc primaries Fuel Lab adjustable FPR w/ fuel pressure gauge AEM 340LPH fuel pump Greddy intake elbow Greddy FMIC Turbosmart MBC AEM V3 Water/Meth injection Sakebomb Garage trunk mounted W/M tank JP3 W/M pump mounting bracket Fluidyne radiator Aluminum AST Jaz breather tank LRB Speed aluminum undertray B&M short throw shifter w/ aluminum shifter bushing ACT Street/Strip clutch SS braided clutch line Banzai-Racing polyurethane engine mounts (street version)
EMS, Ignition, and Electrical Apexi Power FC w/ Commander FC Edit Black Box LMS-EFI engine harness IGN-1A Smart Ignition Coils Triumph fast reacting IAT sensor Mazda FC fan switch AEM wideband & TruBoost Miata battery relocated to RH bin
Suspension, Wheels, and Brakes Tein Flex Z coilovers SuperPro suspension, differential and steering rack bushings J-Auto pillow ball bushings New OEM rear LCA inner bushings Moog tie-rod ends and sway bar links Work Emotion CR Kiwami wheels 18x9.5 Falken AZENIS FK510 255/35ZR-18 Project Mu heptagonal locking lug nuts StopTech blank rotors w/ OE equiv pads
Interior Nardi Deep Corn 350mm wheel / BellWorks hub Banzai Racing FC Commander mounting bracket Tripower dual dash pod for AEM gauges LRB Speed battery relocation tray
Miscellaneous Maintenance Gauge cluster capacitors replaced (functional odometer)
New gauge hood (thanks to the gauge cluster removal) New 5th gear synchronizer w/ front and rear transmission seals Rear brake calipers rebuilt New engine oil and coolant level sensors New OEM upper/lower rad hoses, P/S hose New clutch master and slave cylinders New OEM shift ****
...that's the high level rundown of what it took to get to this point. I might make some posts later that cover details of some of these parts and installs. For now, here's the latest photo of the car.
This was the first thread suggestion on my build thread and one of the first few build threads I've read through. Sometime in the long future, think we may end up having a very similar setup if/when I need a new engine and my twins go out.
I drive the car nearly every day (functioning A/C, heat, power steering, and power windows FTW) and have managed to put several thousand miles on this setup. I've reached a point where I'm just able to enjoy the car without having to worry about the next major fix/upgrade. I there's anything I do, it might be to get some more aggressive brake pads. Also, I’d like to get an EBC dialed in (have an AEM TruBoost, just no boost solenoid installed) – for now, I'm using a MBC to keep it simple.
Car looks great and awesome results on your build... thanks for updating
My car is similar to yours in turbo set-up and functionality. I too am just enjoying it and not worrying about what to do next!
Love the fact that everything works like stock....a/c, cruise control and such but now she has more power.
With the EFR 8374, I don't miss the twins at all... she's plenty quick and the spool is almost like the twins.
Love this build. Mine is similar as well. Curious - can you speak at all to your approach to grounding everything properly? With the relocated battery, ignition, AI, and new engine harness, I'm wondering if any specific approach/steps was taken to ensure good grounding and limit resistance and EMI?
This was the first thread suggestion on my build thread and one of the first few build threads I've read through. Sometime in the long future, think we may end up having a very similar setup if/when I need a new engine and my twins go out.
Be prepared to dump a significant amount of cash; I think it's worth while, but if the twin turbos are still in good working condition, enjoy them for as long as you can!
Originally Posted by estevan62274
Car looks great and awesome results on your build... thanks for updating
My car is similar to yours in turbo set-up and functionality. I too am just enjoying it and not worrying about what to do next!
Love the fact that everything works like stock....a/c, cruise control and such but now she has more power.
With the EFR 8374, I don't miss the twins at all... she's plenty quick and the spool is almost like the twins.
Steve
There's so much that can go wrong with the TT control - going single is a fresh breath of air, especially with spool time not being significantly affected, and such an incredible power band.
Originally Posted by cloud9
Love this build. Mine is similar as well. Curious - can you speak at all to your approach to grounding everything properly? With the relocated battery, ignition, AI, and new engine harness, I'm wondering if any specific approach/steps was taken to ensure good grounding and limit resistance and EMI?
I'm kind of **** about wiring - I ran 2AWG power AND ground from the battery up to the original terminal locations. I try to star pattern my grounds to a common location. Also, additional grounds from engine iron to chassis, grounds on top of engine that link housings and irons, etc. Just remember that grounds are equally important to power wires as all current has to flow through them just the same
I'm kind of **** about wiring - I ran 2AWG power AND ground from the battery up to the original terminal locations. I try to star pattern my grounds to a common location. Also, additional grounds from engine iron to chassis, grounds on top of engine that link housings and irons, etc. Just remember that grounds are equally important to power wires as all current has to flow through them just the same
Thank you for the summary. I'm trying to make sure I do a good job with this as well, so I have a few more questions:
Without the battery in the front, there is no factory negative terminal location; so what spot did you pick? Or did you mean the engine? If yes did you replace the factory ground wire coming off the engine?
"Star pattern to a common location" is popular guidance for how to approach system ground, my question for you is - what is your 'common location'?
"grounds on top of engine that link housings and irons" - struggling to make sense out of this. Is this literally a copper wire that runs the length of the engine with a connection along each iron and housing, respectively?
01-24-20, 11:51 AM
. Ended up pushing it back onto the trailer to take her back home.
Super Clean!!
