Meanwhile in Russia. 92' JDM FD single turbo build
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Meanwhile in Russia. 92' JDM FD single turbo build
Hello, here is my introduce thread -
https://www.rx7club.com/introduce-yo...ussia-1002471/
I've blown my engine this autumn, so building of little monster is started.
disassembling:
little disaster inside but after all car still driveable, with good idle
sorry for vid quality, i've tried to record the sound.
one rotor and one rotor housing was killed, but i was lucky to find used ones in my city, and bought them next day after engine disassembling.
Got overhaul kit from RA with classic seals and racing springs.
Almost everything is ready to assemble the engine:
Weather in Russia now is good for rebuild, not to drive
https://www.rx7club.com/introduce-yo...ussia-1002471/
I've blown my engine this autumn, so building of little monster is started.
disassembling:
little disaster inside but after all car still driveable, with good idle
one rotor and one rotor housing was killed, but i was lucky to find used ones in my city, and bought them next day after engine disassembling.
Got overhaul kit from RA with classic seals and racing springs.
Almost everything is ready to assemble the engine:
Weather in Russia now is good for rebuild, not to drive
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#8
Goodfalla Engine Complete
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Why is the back edge of your hood raised?
Aerodynamic tests have shown that area to be a high pressure zone and thus air moves into that spot and not out of it. This will mean that the area behind your radiator and intercooler will be higher pressure than normal and actually restrict flow through them.
Aerodynamic tests have shown that area to be a high pressure zone and thus air moves into that spot and not out of it. This will mean that the area behind your radiator and intercooler will be higher pressure than normal and actually restrict flow through them.
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Why is the back edge of your hood raised?
Aerodynamic tests have shown that area to be a high pressure zone and thus air moves into that spot and not out of it. This will mean that the area behind your radiator and intercooler will be higher pressure than normal and actually restrict flow through them.
Aerodynamic tests have shown that area to be a high pressure zone and thus air moves into that spot and not out of it. This will mean that the area behind your radiator and intercooler will be higher pressure than normal and actually restrict flow through them.
I know the way how to check aerodynamic of this thing without wind tunnel: anyone remember old method with cars wrapped by thin stickers? i promise - i will make real high speed experiment as soon as my car will return to the streets.
i dunno, i think it is too hard to find lhd fd even in europe. most of fd in russia is rhd, i think more than 90%.
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Porting: exhaust
I's not easy to get branded porting templates in Russia. shipping is ****. its expensive, and very slooooow. So i dont wand to wait, i maked my own templates maybe in 60 minutes or so from thin sheet of clear plastic.
For good positioning template on the housing i used the masking tape:
someone, maybe, using pencil to draw the line, but tape is useful, because is has some thickness, and help support the template.
on the left you can see my survived housing. on the right - one, that i have buy from some guy. somebody already ported it. but i want a little more advance in exhaust opening timing
this is my almost invisible template placed and secured on housing
both housings are marked, and ready to grinding and polishing.
final look.
thank you.
For good positioning template on the housing i used the masking tape:
someone, maybe, using pencil to draw the line, but tape is useful, because is has some thickness, and help support the template.
on the left you can see my survived housing. on the right - one, that i have buy from some guy. somebody already ported it. but i want a little more advance in exhaust opening timing
this is my almost invisible template placed and secured on housing
both housings are marked, and ready to grinding and polishing.
final look.
thank you.
Last edited by vl-alexander; 12-23-13 at 07:14 AM.
#14
Goodfalla Engine Complete
iTrader: (28)
Hmmm... never think about this that way. i was sure that this area has less pressure than underhood air... i'm really confused... also, re-amemya has hood with holes in this area - why? anyway in slow traffic, when aerodynamic means nothing, raised hood really helps hot air escape.
I know the way how to check aerodynamic of this thing without wind tunnel: anyone remember old method with cars wrapped by thin stickers? i promise - i will make real high speed experiment as soon as my car will return to the streets.
I know the way how to check aerodynamic of this thing without wind tunnel: anyone remember old method with cars wrapped by thin stickers? i promise - i will make real high speed experiment as soon as my car will return to the streets.
As you increase speed, eventually the yarn will be pulled towards the engine bay. Unless the FD is different from the other vehicles I have tested this theory with. I have not personally performed this test on my FD.
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I dont like additional gauges, because they ruin interior look. But....
Got nice 1.5" OLED display.
It will be fitted right into stock tacho:
photoshop magic for now, but this device almost finished, soon will be real one
Also, on this picture you can see my custom 300 km/h speedo, that i've made one year ago.
Got nice 1.5" OLED display.
It will be fitted right into stock tacho:
photoshop magic for now, but this device almost finished, soon will be real one
Also, on this picture you can see my custom 300 km/h speedo, that i've made one year ago.
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Made some changes in stock wire harness. All emission and seq. turbo solenoids removed, so i have a LOT of spare wires. I used it to wire oil temp sensor, oil pressure sensor, egt sensors (x2), LS2 truck coils (x4). So every device mounted on the engine that require wires now connected to stock harness. Looks clear and this is very convenient on engine installation/removal. Also solder in 2 resistors, need for driving low impedance secondary bosch 1600cc injectors.
This is my DIY super exclusive ECU. it is hybrid of stock ECU and Megasquirt-3 daughter board. It control everything - Spark (fully COP - rx8 mode), fuel (staged, fully sequential) , boost, OMP.
The last feature is my proud. I put my code in original MS3 firmware to make OMP support. This is how omp settings look in my ecu:
standard 2D table allow to set target OMP position depends on RPM and load. (load can be MAP, MAF, or TPS based) Also i have coolant temperature correction. Because over lubrication in warmup will be useful.
New more performance secondary fuel rail in place:
DIY
This is my DIY super exclusive ECU. it is hybrid of stock ECU and Megasquirt-3 daughter board. It control everything - Spark (fully COP - rx8 mode), fuel (staged, fully sequential) , boost, OMP.
The last feature is my proud. I put my code in original MS3 firmware to make OMP support. This is how omp settings look in my ecu:
standard 2D table allow to set target OMP position depends on RPM and load. (load can be MAP, MAF, or TPS based) Also i have coolant temperature correction. Because over lubrication in warmup will be useful.
New more performance secondary fuel rail in place:
DIY
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I connect it to arduino board - arduino read analog data from sensors and visualize it on display.
Tuner studio have native versions for windows, mac and linux.
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I've converted stock metering pump to be fed by 2T oil.
1. blocked plunger feed line by epoxy.
2. made custom plate with nippel
Also, got turbo
Who asked about vodka?
I'm confused about oil drain line. I was sure that drain line must be bolted by bolts with M8 thread. But M8 bolts too small.
who know the actual thread size on BW turbos? I guess it maybe 3/8 inch in diameter. but whitch one - 3/8-16 or 3/8-24 ?
It is impossible to find non metrics bolts in Russia, i have to buy it in US
1. blocked plunger feed line by epoxy.
2. made custom plate with nippel
Also, got turbo
Who asked about vodka?
I'm confused about oil drain line. I was sure that drain line must be bolted by bolts with M8 thread. But M8 bolts too small.
who know the actual thread size on BW turbos? I guess it maybe 3/8 inch in diameter. but whitch one - 3/8-16 or 3/8-24 ?
It is impossible to find non metrics bolts in Russia, i have to buy it in US
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