Get one of these...

FLO~PRO - TWISTER Race Mufflers

 

..experience with those?

 

My buddy Ulysses with an LS2 powered FD has one of those mated with a Greddy muffler out back and it's super quiet when driving around town.

He told me the difference was night and day.

I have one sitting in my garage that will be added to my midpipe.

 

i like the name "manny" better

 

Well I know that muffler is huge in the diesel community to keep noise down and still be free flowing.

And at $60 for an 18" length muffler, it doesn't hurt to try it out. No?

 

Hey Gordon, likewise, been a while Good to see you're still an active FD owner

Honestly, it was a little on the warm side of perfect. I think the high was in the low 80's. But the sun... the sun just bakes the **** out of you. And I was putting on sunscreen about every two hours and still got cooked. This time of year is so nice. Good to hear of your maiden voyage. Told you that thing is gonna be loud.

Because race car

Post more vids!

 

Let us know how well that holds up for you. Rotaries have a habit of melting things that work well on piston cars. Would be nice to get your feedback after 10k miles or so.

 

^Again, the piece was $60 shipped to my door. If it doesn't work, I'll look for other means for silence.

 

^That thing looks good though... How are Diesel motor EGT's on average? should be much lower than what were running..but at the same time... They can't be bad because they're definitely selling. your buddy is running one or two of these?

 

Even though my fuel level sensor isn't working yet....I knew I was getting a little low on fuel. So I started her up and drove to the gas station about 3/4 of a mile away. I stalled once. And it was a bit Hairy because All I had was my hand brake since my speed bleeders havn't come in for all 4 corners yet. But It was nice to get on the road and actually feel the car ya know? I need to adjust my coilovers and had them at all the way stiff to start with. Also all 4 corners needed to be adjustes as far as coilover ride height. Front's ranged from 24.25" (drivers side) to 24.83" (Pasenger side). The rear was 25 inches even on the pasenger side and 25.25 inches on the drivers side. I'll most likely go 24.25 in the fronts and 24.50" in the rear but I want to wait till I get my new tires to set the ride height. The rear tires are 265/35's but i'll be running 245 or 255/40's in the rear. We'll see. Anyways here's a clip of my maiden street voyage!

Suicidegasstationrun_zpseb250296.mp4 Video by mannykiller | Photobucket

After I got back from the gas station I was afraid coolant temps were going to be higher....but it was about 78 degrees yesterday when I went. Coolant temps never got over 83...and cruising at 45mph they were even cooler @ 81 Celsius. I know people say thats too cold but you know what. When the summer heat hits 118 F like it did last year... I'll be happy. I'd much rather have temps a bit colder than running hot. Maybe I could even experiment with different weight oils. Right now i'm using 5W30. Anyways.. My oil drain leak is fixed. but my heater core drivers side coolant line is leaking. I used a worm clamp on it and I think it's just too tight. I'll fix that as soon as possible.

Havn't had time to hook up the AEM boost control Solenoid yet and don't really need it yet.
Only need to do about 10 more min of figure 8's before the Carbonetic 2-way diff is broken in but I may do a few more just for kicks. It's noticeably quieter than when I first started doing the 8's with it. It clunked LOUD when I first started. Now it's much quieter. Feels great though. After it's done being broken in I'll change the diff fluid and be done with it for the time being.

Orderd a pack of 8 Little 16 oz plastic squeeze bottles with caps so I can keep Pre-mix with me. Also finally ordered my Triumph Fast Acting AIT sensor because the OEM unit is soo damn slow it's literally pointless. 43 bucks shipped online from some cycle shop. Clutch feels good..Nice tight and not overly stiff. Engagement window feels like it's about an inch in length. I may end up extending my Piston because I don't like pushing all the way in for the clutch. I would much rather push in a couple inches and then have it start to release/engage.

Thats about it as far as updates go. After this stuff is finished the car should be dyno ready and abel ibarra can do his thing. Looking forward to it!

More updates soon!

 

Watched your video. Yup, its LOUD Nice! Love the "ah ****' moment...

 

Yeah, "ah ****" lol!

 

Diesel EGT's are through the roof. If that muffler works on diesels it will be fine for a rotary.

 

Aaron, he's just running one 18" ...I think

 

^ haha

Small Update:

Well I wasn't able to get much done on the car this past weekend as i've been working since fri...and I won't be off till Wed. But on saturday morning I had an hour free...so I went out and finished breaking the diff in. After that I figure'd I'd go ahead and go around the block just for a nice cruise. Well Temps stayed cool enough.....but then all the sudden halfway around the block temps started creeping up towards 91C etc... Then 99..and when It got to 108C I was at my driveway.. Pulled up and into the garage and shut it off. Cooled off reasonably quick but water was boilover over and I lost a little bit because I don't have an overflow cap on the tank.
This worries me because it hasn't gotten hot before. And 108 isn't damaging hot but why did this happen is my major question. THe fans came on...and I didn't go over 3K RPM and no faster than 40MPH. Running straight distilled water and water wetter.
The only thing I can think of was that my Radiator hose was kinked a little bit. And I guess that is enough to overheat the system.. but I'm not sure if I even want to deal with the problem. I feel like at this point I don't want to do R & D. I want to drive the car. I have no interest in seeing if I can make something work and so if fixing the kink in the radiator hose doesn't fix the problem... Im going to pull the whole thing out and put in a Mishimoto Universal Race dual pass with -16 fittings and dual high flow fans with the alum Shroud.

I really need to get everything in the motor in tip top shape. Everything is ok, but I don't want to "think" my cooling system will be able to handle demanding conditions. I want to "know." I want to know that my coolant system is strong enough to handle track duty, high load conditions.

So it may just be the kinked radiator hose from Thermostat housing to upper radiator inlet. So i'll fix it and see how it goes. What warrants this? well the fact that temps havn't gotten hot before this. I've let the car idle long enough without temps rising. I also had driven to the gas station and done figure 8's afterwards without any heat problems as well... So the kinked radiator hose is the only culprit. If un-kinking the hose doesn't fix the problem I'll most likely blame the radiator. Someone had mentioned the system may have a harder time controlling "runaway" coolant temps... SO if this is one of those instances.. then It's not for me. My goal is to be out there doing an extra lap while everyone else is pulling off the track to cool down. I don't want to be the first guy off the track.

Also, since i'm slightly aggitated with the cooling problem... I was installing my Russel Brand speed bleeders and the drivers side rear fitting Snapped off INSIDE the brake caliper. Perfect huh? hahaha. I seriously got pissed... then laughed..Tightned my Manual Brake Bias to eliminate any pressure to the rear...dropped my tools and went inside. I'm pretty accepting of user error..but this time was BS. All of the other fittings were able to be tightened just like the non-ez (speedbleeders) bleeders. This one HAD to be defective. I even looked at the threads and it still had a good 1/4 of the length more to go before it should have been tight/sealed. Now I have to contact them and try to get a new one.

 

You probably just had an air bubble in the system and was just low on coolant.


If the system has worked well in the driveway then it should be fine at low load/speeds. Especially limping it home. Heavy load, I think your intercooler... err... radiator is too small due to the reduced surface area of the fins.

 

Agreed... either air bubble or possible thermostat temporarily stuck. Did you use a new thermostat when you rebuild the motor?

 

I would say this is a possibility....but I'm pretty meticulous when it comes to doing fluids. Filled it up, let it idle for like 20 min. shut it down cool it off 3 times. The fourth time I used a lisle funnel to get any stubborn air bubbles out. If there were any pockets of air....they had to be very small unless for some reason the new Radiator set up isn't very good at letting go of air bibbles and traps them. The ONLY thing I caught was that I forgot to put in the Water wetter. So it was about 95% Distilled water with no real lube...only leftover coolant for the remaining 5% or so.

We'll find out whether or not the IC converted to Radiator works at higher loads soon enough. But you guys have to remember Yes maybe exterior surface area is decreased. But due to the Increased thickness of the actual unit 3" opposed to say 2-2 1/2 inches AND the internal fins running through the veins... It "should" be...or were betting on increased cooling capacity on the inside. I've done a bit more research on this and there are A LOT of guys running IC converted to Radiators...mostly in the UK from what i've seen.

Yes, Its a brand new OEM mazda 93 Thermostat. But like I said....Maybe the fact that I didn't use watter wetter (LUBE) played a role in making the thermostat stick. We'll see. I'll filler her up and try try again

 

Hmmm.... probably would be easy to remove the thermostat and boil it with a thermometer to make sure it's opening at the right temp. Also... the thermostats you get now (OEM) are of a slightly different design than the old ones. I'm attaching a few pics... I enlarged the bypass hole on my old one and drilled a hole in the new one (during water pump replacement) when I was rotary and never ever had cooling problems. Only cooling mods were a koyo dual pass rad, 70/30 water/coolant mix, re-medy water pump, and pineapple idler pulley.

You sure you have the right pressure rad cap and it's working?

You sure the water pump is actually working (as in the pulley is spinning freely and the pump impeller/shaft isn't moving)?

Maybe you're getting belt slippage? Check belt tension?

Dunno, just thinking out loud bro. Attaching a few pics of the new (1st three, and old) OEM stats.

 

Man this is amazing... what an awesome read!

 

Hey I appreciate the possible causes!!

Pretty sure I have the correct Radiator pressure cap. The Water pump is working with no belt slip because I have the Pineapple idler pulley that wraps over 3/4 of the pulley so I'm pretty sure thats not it. I have thought about drilling out the Thermostat though.... What exactly does that do? and what are the advantages of doing it mike? Heard of people doing it but never looked into fully...

 

Small update:

Well I havn't touched the car in a few days. Just finished working 86 hours in the past 6 days so needless to say I'm pretty tired. I did come home to 2 nice packages waiting for me at the front door:

Fronts Finally came in - Advan Racing TC III 18x9.5 +45 (yikes) would've liked a better offset but this was the only thing available. Threw some old spares on them so I could roll around and figure out spacing. These are too narrow at 225. I'll be running a 245 min up front,..need that grip!
Advan TCIII

mounted with 225's

 

And to get rid of that stretched look!

 

I actually dont so much mind the stretched look as long as it's not unsafe. Some cars can really pull it off...and if that's your thing then sweet!

 

sweet motorcycle tires bro