sounds like its coming along well Aaron! I got all my kinks worked out on my base map so far.. other then it being so dam cold out the car does not want to start when its cold... (Water temp corrections are not added)

 

Buy a new clutch master cylinder from Ray. IIRC, it was about $125, not much more than the autozone special, plus it comes with a new fitting and hose to the master cylinder reservoir. A low mileage used one is still going to have 20 year old seals in it.

RE: playing with the idle tune, you really cant blow up the motor, if it runs lean it will just stall... no big deal.


I cant wait to see some vids of this on the dyno.

 

^ thinking about it. Might as well go with a 929 then huh?

I know its not going to literally blow up, I was just joking man! I'm looking forward to the dyno as well! Sounds great already!

 

Isn't Abel Ibarra famed for close to 1700 HP from his 20B??

Once your engine gets run in your idle will change about so I wouldn't worry about it too much.

 

Short walk around after I got the Idle lowered some.

Really need to get the Brakes finished and Clutch Properly Bled

 

linky no worky

 

try this one

Walkaroundamplightrev_zps94176401.mp4 Video by mannykiller | Photobucket

 

lol dafuq

edit: nvm

 

Holy epic thread. I dig what you've done.

 

^ Hey thanks much!

 

Update:

Well After many many failed attempts at Bleeding my clutch and brake system... I finally bit the bullet this morning and ordered 4x Speed Bleeders, and 1 Speed bleeder for the Clutch Slave. I think I pretty much Mico-bubbled my entire system earlier on when I was bleeding the system incorrectly, and now I'm left cleaning up the mess. Anyways... They'll be here in a couple days.

In other news...I got the car to idle around 850rpm and even got it to hold steady at 750 messing with the adaptronic fuel table, but 750 although steady..was just a little bit lumpy for my likeing. The best investement ever was the Lisle Funnel. My cooling system is ROCK steady, and I'm thinking I'm going to be just fine with my I/C core converted Radiator and the 2x Mishimoto slim fans. I'm still going to purchase some Higher CFM fans just for my own piece of mind but I'm not entirely sure they'll even be necessary. Yesterday in the 88 degree desert heat my car idle'd for 35 min and did not get any higher than 81 Degrees Celsius. Thats exactly what I was hoping for.. Rev'd to 2k for 3 min to get the temp up and it rose to 85...Fans kicked on and held at 85 C @ 2k RPM for 2 MIN and raised to 86. I'd really like the temp to drop, but I guess I can't expect that with just the fans, no ducting and the water pump only turning at 2k rpm. We'll see what happens once I get some Load on the system. Still need to hook up my Oil cooler fans though as well. Was thinking of putting them on the same switch as my radiator fans so they'd come on at the same time. What do you guys think?

Also Made a temp template gauge plate for my DIN pockets for the battery on/off switch, And Dual EGT Digital displays. I like it...but still need to cut a hole for the Innovate Mtx-l wideband gauge.
heres a pic..cardboard....may just keep it like this forever ;-)

night view.. havn't hooked up the dimmer wire yet...but it ties into the dimmer switch so you can adjust the brightness to your likeing
Also fixed my Turn signals because the whole unit snapped when I was putting the dash in. Stupid and expensive mistake. But Got a nice low mileage one and installed it. Thanks dan!
Old Busted one

Nice low mileage unit

Installed

Finished


Also I know I post a lot of pictures of the bay...but I just love it. This is what I've built over the past 2 years...and it is now 100% complete as an engine bay...aside from I/C & Radiator Ducting.
Top View

Front View


Also, I had to re-make the water feed line to the turbo because I was tightening it and actually Cracked the flare right off the tube. I used a -6 90 degree black push-lock fitting to replace it. I think it suits the build a little better and is more durable. Could've used stainess tube instead..but I wanted alum because it was easier to work with and has better cooling characteristics. The push loc line is a great compromise though and i'll just cover it with some DEI.

Raised my suspension a half inch in the front because the car was literally SLAMMED. I can't believe how low I can go on these coilovers.. I'd probly be able to put the car on the ground if I wanted to. There is so much room for adjusment. looking forward to getting everything dialed in to see if my 8/10k swift springs are too soft. We'll see soon enough. Although they've been re-nammed and re-configured I"m pretty happy with the build quality/adjustment of the Stance XR coilovers thus far.

There's still a lot to do before I can hit the dyno. But most importantly I need to get:

1. Brakes/Clutch Bled
2. Oil pressure gauge working
3. Carbonetic 2 way Metal LSD unit Broken in/fluid change
4. 4" exhaust completed

More updates to come!!

 

^Thanks much!!!

I actually have the coolant fans set to come on at 85 degrees C and turn off at 83 degrees C. I just wanted to make sure they worked and came on when they were supposed to. I'm a bit paranoid when it comes to overheating. I'm going to change those settings to have them come on at 86 Degrees C and turn off when the temp drops to 85 C. Pretty easy in the Adaptronic software. I'm going to mount the Oil-coolers today and wire them in with the radiator fans.

 

as you lower the ride height the race structured FD suspension gains negative camber at an aggressive rate.

there will be a point where you are unable to adjust out the negative camber to the point where you wish to be static.

i am working w this on my car as i want it on the deck for the Texas Mile. i also want zero camber at 200 mph. (of course no guarantees i get there). i want zero air under the nose.

initially i was going to make adj upper A arms. lots of work. i am now thinking of making offset bushings for the inner upper A arms. easier perhaps.

your wastegate pipes may be the most badass thing on the forum

like your steering wheel too.

howard

 

My goal is to run as low as possible @ 0 degrees camber in the rear. The front may have a degree depending...

I love my set-up.. Looking forward to power numbers especially my tq curve. Hopefully abel can pull a little extra tq magic from my long runner turbo mani and i'll have exactly what i'm looking for out there on the track.

The OMP Corsica is such a classic classy wheel. I like Nardi..but I'm a huge fan of european track/drift builds and OMP seems to be much more popular over there.. I saw it...fell in love and ordered it Cheaper than the Nardi deep corn too...by a hundred bucks! I think I paid 250 shipped for the OMP wheel through Touge Factory.com

 

Hey Manny, did you ever get a chance to take pics of your EGT bung location on your manifold? Would be interested to see where you mounted yours.

Looking and sounding GREAT!!

Thx

 

ooooh shoot I totally forgot about that.... Sorry man! Here you go though

installed bungs

 

Can't wait to see this thing sideways at the track. We'll definitely have to do some drift days with the guys up at Willow. We just need to get more of them on board/get their cars running. haha

 

^ sell the nissan mike... Build one car...build it right, and drive it "real good."

What city are you moving to? We'll definitely have to meet up man

 

Thanks! So quick question regarding positioning since I haven't done mine yet. Is the optimum position at 8 o'clock for the rear housing and 4 o'clock for the front versus 6 and 6 as you've done, or doesn't it make any difference? Appreciate the feedback, and thanks again for sharing pics of your setup!!

 

You know what...truthfully I'm not sure about the "optimum location." But before I installed them I looked at a lot of set up's....eventually I e-mailed Parts Shop Max and they told me to mount them 2-4 Inches away from the ports. I don't think the circumferential position matters really. If it did..it would only be in case of a mis-hap. Say your motor blew a coolant seal or something and you let it sit...if the sensors are made from steel (which I'm sure they are of higher grade) you wouldn't want them to sit and rust. You want the temperature of the exhaust exiting the rotor housing so you can see if there is a problem. It may change if placed further up stream in long runner applications. I put the sensors on the bottom so I wouldn't have to run the lines in a hotter place and they're much easier to access from the bottom as well

What sensors and readouts are you going with? Martin at Parts shop Max has been running these sensors and the same egt probes in his manifold for 2 years without any problems

 

Not sure yet, but I like your setup! Those square small displays are the bomb. Would go well with my Innovate wideband Autotimer display. How do I contact "Parts Shop Max"? I see he has a FB account, but any web info would be appreciated!

Thx Manny!

 

^I love Innovate. I was looking into their dual Oil temp/Pressure 2 in one gauge as well but decided to stick with my oem pressure gauge for now. The Gauges are awesome because they're also Volt meters and rpm readouts as well!! i'm just keeping them on the EGT screen because I don't need to monitor the other ones atm. You can also switch to monitor 2 on one screen, for instance EGT and RPM or EGT and Volts. Pretty sweet. You can contact them via e-mail here:

maxusa@poweredbymax.net

Anyone there can help you.

But I'd ask for Martin as I saw the set up on his track car and he walked me through the set up. Let me know how it goes!!

 

I'll be in Long Beach.

haha the S-chassis is made for drifting. The FD will still get built right, don't worry.

 

Awesome build!

 

Can't wait to hear those dump tubes scream and blow mass amounts of fire when you really lay on it