Knee-deep in my current build
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
^^Funny you mention that. I posted those pics partially in jest, b/c I don't think that setup is making it onto my FD, which is built for street and road race (not drag). It's made by Virtual Works, who specializes in custom Supra parts. I snagged it here on the forum. It's either going to be the basis of an IRP project or I'm going to sell it off to someone who can use it 
boooooooooo! someone needs to use that beauty. you will never know whether it helps or hurts low end.
^^Funny you mention that. I posted those pics partially in jest, b/c I don't think that setup is making it onto my FD, which is built for street and road race (not drag). It's made by Virtual Works, who specializes in custom Supra parts. I snagged it here on the forum. It's either going to be the basis of an IRP project or I'm going to sell it off to someone who can use it
Problem persisted, I was incredulous that it might be the OMP squirters, in my experience they seldom (if ever) fail. Plus, mine were new ones that came with the new engine.
Well, they were definitely bad. Pulled mine (thank god for being single turbo) and tested them. You're supposed to be able to blow through them but not suck..... sounds kinda gross, but that's they way the one-way valves work
Mine had the opposite mojo going on-- you could suck, but not blow.
Well, they were definitely bad. Pulled mine (thank god for being single turbo) and tested them. You're supposed to be able to blow through them but not suck..... sounds kinda gross, but that's they way the one-way valves work
Mine had the opposite mojo going on-- you could suck, but not blow.Rich in higher boost applications, the OMP nozzles aren't going to last as long. The internal check valve can only withstand so much boost. It's no different than with the stock vacuum check valves except you can't upgrade the OMP nozzles. I think this is something that gets over looked on higher boost engines. I would inspect them every six months in your application.
Speculative engineering??? LOL! I will say this! Top end will be far superior than the stock version, however off throttle response will suffer a bit because he will lose delayed secondary runner control. In the Rx8 Mazda doesn't even open the secondary's till 3,750rpms. The primary runners do all the work up until that point for good reason.
hey rich what does that intake manifold look like installed? got any pics?
also why are you using jacks to prop up the car? i thought you just usually just dead-lift it with one hand, while removing the lug nuts with your teeth, and using your other hand to moderate rx7club posts via laptop...?
also why are you using jacks to prop up the car? i thought you just usually just dead-lift it with one hand, while removing the lug nuts with your teeth, and using your other hand to moderate rx7club posts via laptop...?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,804
Likes: 646
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Rich in higher boost applications, the OMP nozzles aren't going to last as long. The internal check valve can only withstand so much boost. It's no different than with the stock vacuum check valves except you can't upgrade the OMP nozzles. I think this is something that gets over looked on higher boost engines. I would inspect them every six months in your application.
Small update, my OS Giken forged close-ratio gearset just arrived (thanks Dave!). Now to take my pick from one of the six transmissions we have stored at the shop..... I'm replacing most of the guts anyway, so it shouldn't matter which one
Also putting my RPF1 on the market soon, but for local buyers only. I'm sick of shipping wheel & tire combos, I must be getting old
Progress on my FD has slowed to a crawl b/c of a combination of the horrible weather we've been having and also a few buds have had engine failures so I'm trying to squeeze them in before DGRR 11 in addition to our existing workload.....
What size are those black lug nuts on your rpf1 wheels? I'm assuming 35mm cause it looks like the centre of the rx7 rpf1s have shallow profile to use open ended (48-50mm) lug nuts without the lug nuts sticking out.
A few pics from this past weekend comparing the oem us OMP to the jdm Mikuni unit.... you can see the size difference, which allows you to mount the RA adapter. Last pic shows just how tight the fitment is on my setup between the us OMP and the A-Spec long runner manifold 
Lastly some different views of the RA adapter installed on a customer's engine
Lastly some different views of the RA adapter installed on a customer's engine
goodfella,
i found one of these OMP s on a JDM engine that i purchased for rebuild. i have pfc installed already. can i use that OMP? did you checked the wiring before you install yours?
did you noticed anything?
i heard that mazda changed the OMP operation on those but i cannot confirm it.
also thinking a rotary aviation adapter with my a-spec 3574 kit manifold.
thanks
Rich, answer your PM's! The new wheels look awesome, I thought you were going with Race Black? Either way, looking good... are you going to track these wheels?
Also, what company do you insure your FD under? I remember you told me once that you had an agreed upon value with them but I can't remember the name. I'm in need of some FD insurance for my yellow girls.
Thank youuuuuu
Also, what company do you insure your FD under? I remember you told me once that you had an agreed upon value with them but I can't remember the name. I'm in need of some FD insurance for my yellow girls.
Thank youuuuuu
I think its American collector. I asked that yesterday haha. I didn't get a definitive answer though.
http://www.americancollectors.com/
http://www.americancollectors.com/
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,804
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From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
FINALLY a real update Spent all day yesterday doing a ton of work to prep my FD for the upcoming track season 
*Replaced damaged rear subframe with 'upgraded' 1996 unit.
-------back in 1999 I had an unfortunate run-in with a traffic island which damaged the passenger side lower mounting point of the lower control arm in the rear subframe. The car had been (barely) able to be aligned over the years, but the replacement pillow ***** on that arm were wearing out more quickly and it had always bugged me.
*Swapped in factory Torsen w/4.10 final drive pumpkin.
------my existing T2 LSD/4.30s setup was making some noise and when drained the fluid had a lot of metal dust in it. I'm thinking that when my fluid was last changed the replacement didn't have friction modifier. I always make it a habit to check such things, but I had a non-car buddy lending a hand and, well.... you get what you pay for I guess
[the diff and subframe came from Japan2LA at a very fair price and they were in very packed well and arrived in good shape]
*Replaced fuel filter soft lines.
-------my relocation had been done back in ~2002, so while the subframe was out of the way I changed to fresh fuel lines from the top hardlines going to the filter.
*Installed new Endless MX72 rear brake pads.
-------my current ET700 pads had about 30% life left. enough for the street, not for the track. I have to say that they did last quite a long time. The Endless pads (sourced from Ganesh/Miata_mx5 here) are a hardcore 'Racing Blue' that I like quite a bit. This was very easy to do b/c the calipers had to come off the car when the subframe was removed. The lines are captive within the rear brake mounting tab.
*Installed new OEM Mazda front wheel bearings.
---------very easy job, much much easier than the rear because the front bearings come already installed within the hub with studs and abs sensor ring included. List price is $200 each, but got them much cheaper from Raymond Crowe at Malloy Mazda.
Below you can see the damaged rear mounting tab..... pretty ugly. Amazing that the car drove straight and was able to be aligned.
Rotary Extreme toe links and trailing arms, with Super Pro bushings and recent new mazda pillow *****.
Tanabe rear sway bar and newish OEM catback heat shield. My old shield had cracked badly.... you don't want to know how much they are new.
Spent all day yesterday doing a ton of work to prep my FD for the upcoming track season *Replaced damaged rear subframe with 'upgraded' 1996 unit.
-------back in 1999 I had an unfortunate run-in with a traffic island which damaged the passenger side lower mounting point of the lower control arm in the rear subframe. The car had been (barely) able to be aligned over the years, but the replacement pillow ***** on that arm were wearing out more quickly and it had always bugged me.
*Swapped in factory Torsen w/4.10 final drive pumpkin.
------my existing T2 LSD/4.30s setup was making some noise and when drained the fluid had a lot of metal dust in it. I'm thinking that when my fluid was last changed the replacement didn't have friction modifier. I always make it a habit to check such things, but I had a non-car buddy lending a hand and, well.... you get what you pay for I guess
[the diff and subframe came from Japan2LA at a very fair price and they were in very packed well and arrived in good shape]
*Replaced fuel filter soft lines.
-------my relocation had been done back in ~2002, so while the subframe was out of the way I changed to fresh fuel lines from the top hardlines going to the filter.
*Installed new Endless MX72 rear brake pads.
-------my current ET700 pads had about 30% life left. enough for the street, not for the track. I have to say that they did last quite a long time. The Endless pads (sourced from Ganesh/Miata_mx5 here) are a hardcore 'Racing Blue' that I like quite a bit
. This was very easy to do b/c the calipers had to come off the car when the subframe was removed. The lines are captive within the rear brake mounting tab.*Installed new OEM Mazda front wheel bearings.
---------very easy job, much much easier than the rear because the front bearings come already installed within the hub with studs and abs sensor ring included. List price is $200 each, but got them much cheaper from Raymond Crowe at Malloy Mazda.
Below you can see the damaged rear mounting tab..... pretty ugly. Amazing that the car drove straight and was able to be aligned.
Rotary Extreme toe links and trailing arms, with Super Pro bushings and recent new mazda pillow *****.
Tanabe rear sway bar and newish OEM catback heat shield. My old shield had cracked badly.... you don't want to know how much they are new.
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; Jun 9, 2011 at 05:33 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,804
Likes: 646
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Some pictures showing the differences between the 1993 and 1996 Rear Subframe. From 1994 and up these improvements to the bracing can be found
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; Jun 9, 2011 at 05:33 PM.
