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i got another ANOTHER FD. what is wrong with me

Old Mar 20, 2014 | 06:28 AM
  #201  
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Originally Posted by jacobcartmill





What the hell is going on under that car?

Get some degreaser under there stat. That is disgusting.



Originally Posted by jacobcartmill

Also, attach that haltech relay box man. This car is some ghetto rigged vehicle.


It is nice you got to drive the FD. I wish I could say the same.

Last edited by RENESISFD; Mar 20, 2014 at 06:31 AM.
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 07:13 AM
  #202  
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Any reason you decided to keep the AST?
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 12:39 PM
  #203  
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Originally Posted by RENESISFD


What the hell is going on under that car?

Get some degreaser under there stat. That is disgusting.

Also, attach that haltech relay box man. This car is some ghetto rigged vehicle.

It is nice you got to drive the FD. I wish I could say the same.
brosio, this is a track/weekend car, not a unicorn/car show vehicle. my oil pan leaks, so going full Cartmill's Disease (compulsively cleaning stuff that will never be seen) is going to be pointless. not only do i not really care what the under side looks like (to an extent), but it will be filthy in about a week because i actually drive the damn thing.
my fabricator buddy wanted to drop the subframe and pull/re-seal the pan while we had all the turbo stuff off, but i am just going to deal with the leak until i can "do it right" and seal it at the time of a rebuild, immediately after assembly while the sealant in the housings'/irons' legs is still wet. i'd basically be paying him the labor time to re-seal it, and i'm not going to do it without an oil pan brace, so i thought that investing $400 into a relatively minor oil leak isn't very cost-effective.

Originally Posted by djseven
Any reason you decided to keep the AST?
good question. i don't really have an answer. i've never had an issue with it, and it's mounted and functional (and not the plastic stock one), so i've just kept it in there. i guess i could swap out the filler necks with the nipple type, but what's the point? is there any benefit to eliminating the AST other than simplification? just curious.
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 12:48 PM
  #204  
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AST delete=simplification. not really any other reason. I like things simple so I got rid of it.

I really like how low that turbo sits though, really nice job on the manifold. That thing is going to scream when it's all done.


BTW, all of our cars are unicorns in their own way, lol
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 12:54 PM
  #205  
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I like AST.
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 01:00 PM
  #206  
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also, an update:

i have the cat installed currently, but i have boosted through 3rd and 4th gear and the boost held strong at 10psi --no creep. the response is also quite good, even with the cat. it seems similar to my 6262 response with no cat (and the smaller .84 hot side).
this could possibly change when i remove the cat and free up the exhaust flow, but i am guessing it's going to be fine.

today i'm planning to setup some dyno time for this weekend (cat removed), but i dont have anything locked in yet.
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 01:47 PM
  #207  
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Originally Posted by Herblenny
I like AST.
I'm going to miss it when I have to fill, drain, fill, drain my coolant, lol
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 02:08 PM
  #208  
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Less failure points deleting the AST. For a track car that sees high pressure and high temps in the coolant system to me it makes sense to delete it. Also cleans up the engine bay a great deal.
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 10:52 AM
  #209  
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did some work last night just cleaning up a few things.
cleaned up the AST area and changed one of the coolant lines for the turbo.

Attached Thumbnails i got another ANOTHER FD. what is wrong with me-fd-bay-1.jpg  
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 01:19 AM
  #210  
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well i have another update:

i was driving the car with the catalytic converter installed, and the boost was stable and didn't go over ~10psi.

so, tonight i swapped out the cat with the straight pipe, and the internal wastegate is getting overrun at peak torque. the boost shoots up quickly and uncontrollably at 5500rpms and hits my 13psi boost safety fuel cut.

i had the pre-load set at 6mm initially, and the boost shot up, so i unloaded it down to 2mm and it does the exact same thing.

we also tested the wastegate with my air compressor to verify that it's opening fully. here's a video:



TL;DR EFR IWG fail.
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 01:29 AM
  #211  
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Bummer Now what are your plans?
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 02:06 AM
  #212  
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Originally Posted by Rxmfn7
Bummer Now what are your plans?


i dont know. i'm still reeling from this borg warner rectal exam.
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 08:30 AM
  #213  
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3 solutions really; A) run the cat, B) run 15-19 psi C) bigger w/g flapper, enlarge runners etc

When he told me it was running 10psi, with the wastegate set to 6/7psi with the cat, I was a little worried...
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 09:58 AM
  #214  
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Looking good Jacob!
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 12:00 PM
  #215  
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Originally Posted by Turblown
3 solutions really; A) run the cat, B) run 15-19 psi C) bigger w/g flapper, enlarge runners etc

When he told me it was running 10psi, with the wastegate set to 6/7psi with the cat, I was a little worried...
but elliot, i read here that running one on the rotary won't be a problem: !!!
BorgWarner EFR IWG turbochargers and the Rotary Engine | TurboSource


A) if i track with the cat it will melt.

B) if i track with 15-19 psi i will be at much higher risk of detonation, and i will be putting a lot of extra heat/wear on my drivetrain and break something.

C) i am curious as to what you're thinking for this. the wastegate runners look pretty damn efficient. i'm wondering how you could get them any better than they currently are.
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 12:54 PM
  #216  
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did some GIMP'ing and overlayed two screenshots of the wastegate rod and arm fully open and fully shut, and it looks like the angles are within spec:

Attached Thumbnails i got another ANOTHER FD. what is wrong with me-wastegate-angles.jpg  
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 01:03 PM
  #217  
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also used the measuring tool in gimp to measure the wastegate arm angle.

wastegate arm is exactly as the borg warner installation manual says it should be at full stroke (~50 degrees)

the point of view isnt perfect, but it's close enough:

Attached Thumbnails i got another ANOTHER FD. what is wrong with me-wastegate-arm-angle.jpg  
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 02:13 PM
  #218  
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Ive never seen the internals of these new IWG turbos. Are they like that of a OEM wastegate where the hole can be ported and a larger flapper welded on?
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 02:38 PM
  #219  
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Originally Posted by Rxmfn7
Ive never seen the internals of these new IWG turbos. Are they like that of a OEM wastegate where the hole can be ported and a larger flapper welded on?


good question. from what i can tell, the answer is "not really."

i think the divide removes a lot of the surface area, but removing that would get rid of the divided pulses and probably create turbulance. i'm not sure. here's a picture though:

keep in mind though, that the flapper doesn't actually open "fully" as shown in this pic. it only opens ~50 degrees, according to the EFR turbo training manual. this may not be relevant, as there is a graph showing the effectiveness of the flapper opening angles and how it affects exhaust flow.

(picture from TurboSource)
Attached Thumbnails i got another ANOTHER FD. what is wrong with me-efr-wastegate-hole.jpg  
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 03:38 PM
  #220  
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I just spoke to him, he said his initial intesting its holding 16 psi. He's going to do some more pulls, and post some datalogs. Hopefully he will raise the actuator preload for 1 bar and hit the dyno . He said he thinks he is getting 8 psi by 2400rpms. That's 2 psi faster than Shawn's old tdx61 kit...
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 05:44 PM
  #221  
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yes i just got back from some street testing with the low boost actuator set to very little preload (2mm). so the wastegate pressure is ~5psi, and it creeps up to about 15psi and stabilizes.

i used the haltech boost control to set the boost straight to 15, but i had to run 100% wastegate duty, so i'm going to replace the low boost canister with the original medium boost canister and preload it to run 15 psi and do some fine tuning with the boost control solenoid.

the turbo response is great. had 15psi by ~3300rpms, and this turbo is physically bigger (comp wheel, turbine wheel, and turbine A/R) than the previous Precision 6262 setup and has better response.


i am not happy that i can't run less than 15psi. i am going to see if i can do anything about it.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 11:24 AM
  #222  
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I'm hoping you get boost control sorted out. I would have thought the EFR turbo setup had been tested and verified to work properly. Instead it sounds like you're basically a beta tester.

I'd love to run the EFR on my car and planned on it, but not if you have to run 16+lbs of boost at all times. Looking forward to seeing more updates!

-Dan
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 11:48 AM
  #223  
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Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
yes i just got back from some street testing with the low boost actuator set to very little preload (2mm). so the wastegate pressure is ~5psi, and it creeps up to about 15psi and stabilizes.

i used the haltech boost control to set the boost straight to 15, but i had to run 100% wastegate duty, so i'm going to replace the low boost canister with the original medium boost canister and preload it to run 15 psi and do some fine tuning with the boost control solenoid.

the turbo response is great. had 15psi by ~3300rpms, and this turbo is physically bigger (comp wheel, turbine wheel, and turbine A/R) than the previous Precision 6262 setup and has better response.


i am not happy that i can't run less than 15psi. i am going to see if i can do anything about it.
I think I recall you not being a fan of water/meth injection or saying you didnt want to go that route for some reason? I would think with the addition of water injection your intake temps will be lower at 16psi than they would be without it at 10psi on your old 6262. Not to mention a way better torque curve if you can get the boost to come on soon and stabalize.

If you are against it I understand but the AEM basic water injection kit is ridiculously simple. No need to tune for it but should be great for a track car.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 01:36 PM
  #224  
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When Jacob ordered the turbo and manifold from us I was very clear that he would be the 1st one, and we didn't know anyone who had run an efr iwg before. Further more I made it clear that I could not guarantee it would hold low boost. Also I declined deposits on about 20 plus of these systems because I needed results first. Jacob said he knew someone with one and wasn't worried about it. This other person is either running 15 plus psi, has a restrictive exhaust system, or his turbo manifold uses larger tubing which greatly slows down exhaust velocity(making boost control a lot easier). I never designed this system to run low boost. 95 percent of my customers run 15 to 30 psi.

Originally Posted by Scrub
I'm hoping you get boost control sorted out. I would have thought the EFR turbo setup had been tested and verified to work properly. Instead it sounds like you're basically a beta tester.

I'd love to run the EFR on my car and planned on it, but not if you have to run 16+lbs of boost at all times. Looking forward to seeing more updates!

-Dan
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 02:06 PM
  #225  
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this setup is very intriguing to me. even with the boost issues. ive always wanted the fastest spooling setup possible without topping out at 380-400whp. Good luck Jacob!
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