Thanks for the compliments guys! Unfortunately I won't be able to work on the 7 again until some time in February most likely. I managed go get my hands on an FJO low impedance injector driver, so I may be able to get that installed in between my upcoming vacation and work.

Looks amazing sooo clean the entire car. It inspires me to be more attentive to detail it turns out really well!

I haven't been able to do any more work on the car the last few months but I managed to post up a video slideshow of the build today. I recommending clicking on the video and watching it at YouTube so you can go full screen though.

http://youtu.be/7_3BaTEbxU4

great job, beautiful build

As far as the emissions are concerned, my car wont pass either, so I went down to Woodland park and got a PO box at a mail boxes etc. They give you a physical address. Took that to the DMV is Colorado Springs and walked out with plates 20 minutes later.

Only downside is once a year I'm going to have to renew the po box and drive down there to pick up the replacement tag.

i cant wait to go single on mine!

Oh what! Your in Colorado too :), im in the springs by the way, but I never been to "Erie" before or heard of it. But anyways nice build and car cant wait till I go single as well

I got my tags last week and was really excited to get the 7 out of the garage and actually put some miles on it and work on the tune. Unfortunately, I had a dead battery to start out with, which really sucks because it is a new battery. I even had the negative terminal unhooked for the last 4 months. Then, after hooking up the jumper cables, it started but was only firing on the rear rotor. I assumed that the plugs were fouled since I'm still working on getting the base map dialed in. After pulling the plugs, they were dripping wet with fuel. I cleaned and reinstalled them many times over, but began to notice that it was getting harder and harder to get it to fire at all.

Now, it will not start at all and I have to leave town for work again. I guess I'll start digging into this issue when I get back in 2-3 weeks.

One hell of a build thread!

car looks amazing, you did a fantastic job on her. but may i suggest some darker 99spec turn signals up front, while the chrome ones look ok IMO a darker housing would make it look that much better. but thats just my .02 cents

Sweet video, good job :icon_tup:

have you considered an attempt at getting grandfathered out of emissions?

my current state doesnt do emissions (SC) but my old state did (NC)

NC emissions were obdII based, so only 96+ vehicles applied. Anything older was exempt.

Thanks guys. I wish I could get grandfathered out of emissions, but unfortunately, they don't have anything like that in Colorado as far as I've ever known. At any rate, the problem was easily resolved by talking to the DMV. I was able to register it at my parents house where there aren't any emissions.

I considered the smoked turn signals but opted to go for more of an OEM look. They were cheap enough though so I may experiment with the darker ones down the road. For now, I don't want to spend anymore money on unnecessary items until I get some new wheels.

^ I hate that you have to spend so much time away from the build hahaha I always check for updates! Know what wheels you'll be going with?

^ I really like the Advan RGII wheels but they're a bit pricey for me (especially my wife!) I will find something similar once I manage to scrape up some cash.

GreAt job !

Well, I tried to get the car out of the garage again today, but I'm still having issues getting it started. At one point, it started and idled on the front rotor only for a little bit, but I can't seem to get any spark on the rear rotor. I pulled the plugs and found that the leading plugs were dripping with fuel to the point that I could sling them and leave a wet stripe on the driveway. The funny thing is that I can only get it to fire for the first 5 or 6 times I try to start it, but after that, it gets harder and harder to get the damn thing to spin around without the starter pushing it if you know what I mean. It's like the coils (especially the rear) give up after the first few minutes.

To be honest, I have been a little lazy in this trouble-shooting process and I opened up another thread on this issue, which some of you may have seen in the 3rd Gen section. A long story short, I've always had my doubts as to the "REAL" benefit of the HKS Twin Power (which I currently have installed) and I jumped the gun this afternoon and ordered an MSD 6AL and 4 Blaster coils without really doing much research beforehand, or even knowing what to order. I wish I hadn't ordered them now. I see a lot of people out there still swearing by the Twin Power and it's ability to make reliable power over 500 HP even with AI.

I haven't really committed to a decision on exactly what I expect to get out of my set up, maybe because I don't want to fall short of my goals, or maybe because I have seen so much conflicting information out there. If I had to give a number, on the spot, I would have to say that I would be happy with 450 rwhp. Whether that is possible or not, I guess I don't know. However, it is a target I can use when I try to explain where I would like to be when I'm trying to decide on which route to go in my current predicament.

So... What we have is a goal of 450 rwhp, 1680 primaries, 850 secondaries, Dual Walbro fuel pumps, Water/Meth AI (not set up yet, but installed), Greddy T04Z, and an HKS Twin Power on NGK B10EGV's all around. See signature for other mods. I'm good at fabricating, and all of the other B.S. but I just don't feel that I have the experience necessary to KNOW what I should do here. Reading about this stuff on paper (or the internet) is one thing, but reality is often another. I would love to hear from people with first hand experience on the matter. Honestly, if it hadn't been for a thread I read on Howard Coleman's CDI setup that he used to have, I would have just stick with the Twin Power. (If your reading this Howard, please chime in).

I have done some searches, but I didn't really find much in the way of 3rd Gen's. What I did find was mostly people saying, "I run this", and "I run that". I would like to avoid that here if possible.

If you have first hand experience, would you...
1. Go with the MSD 6AL and Blaster 8207 coils
2. Stick with the HKS Twin Power
3. Go with some other option

Stick with the twin power. Your coils are probly fine...

honestly just sounds EXACTLY like you just need knew plugs. These cars are by far the most finicky when it comes to spark plugs. It happened to me 3 or 4 times over about 18000 miles or so. The car runs fine and all the sudden it doesn't start or it idles bad after sitting a day or so. Put some fresh plugs in it man... guarantee it'll start. I'd go with the newer Rebadged greddy 7420's... they seem to last MUCH MUCH longer than the NGK 6725's.

but if you decide to go with the MSD ign... I got first dibbs on the HKS twin power =-)

Twin Power. Plug n Play, realible, bulletproof and gets the job done up to 600hp

Have you checked to make sure you have spark on the rear rotor? If you do have spark, any you are fouling plugs trying to start the car, lean out your starting enrichments.

Another item to check is your rear primary injector. If it's stuck it might be the cause for excess fuel fouling the plug.

@ mannykiller - My plugs are brand new and are still quite shiny due to them soaking in fuel all of the time.

@ TwinCharged - The only thing I have done so far to see if there is any spark is to put a timing light on each of my plug wires while cranking it and I didn't have anything on any of them. I plan to spend some more time actually trouble-shooting it this afternoon. I also checked the duty cycle on the PFC while cranking it and it was only ~1.5% which I thought was low.

I'll let you guys know what I find later this afternoon.

if you havnt done so yet....Pull the plugs and egi fuse. Crank it over.. may be flooded.

how new is brand new? And what brand? You'd be surprised how quickly the "Bur" plugs faul out..

If that.s not it....pull the EGI again and the rear plugs. connect them to the plug wires and fire away.. check and see if there's spark. May be able to see if they're firing or not (coils) etc.

The plugs are NGK B10EGV's and they only have about 75 miles on them. We're going to take my son out to dinner for his birthday tonight so I most likely won't be doing any work on it tonight.

Nice!

After failing to find anything wrong with the ignition, I checked the one thing that I should have checked first, but like an idiot, I didn't; I checked my plugs with a MM and found that 2 of them were bad. I ignored them all this time since I had just put them in.

So... After installing them, the car fired right up without any issues. It seemed to be running good, other than being cold, so I backed it out of the garage to take it for a slow drive around the neighborhood to check it out. Shortly thereafter, I noticed I had low fuel pressure and it died on me. It was acting like I had the exact same problem at first, so I pulled the plugs to check them out and they were completely dry this time. After some serious hassle getting it back to the house, I found that my fuse had blown for my fuel pumps and I remembered that I never bought the 30 Amp fuse that I had intended to run. After putting in the 30 Amp fuse, it fired up fine again, but my fuel pressure was only at 20 psi @ idle. I adjusted the regulator up to 40 psi and then the 30 Amp fuse also blew.

After studying the spec sheets for the pumps, and some talk with a company that specializes in the Walbro high pressure/high flow pumps, I determined that a 30 Amp fuse should be more than enough for the 2 pumps, as well as the wiring I have in place, which left me with what is most likely a bad pump.

I disconnected one of the pumps to see if I could identify which one was bad, and the first one seemed ok initially. The fuse was holding up, but the pressure was low again. I tried to adjust it back up to 40, but it won't go above 26.

Of course, I got called back to work again, so I haven't had a chance to check the other pump to see if it responds the same way yet. I've been thinking about my entire fuel setup now and I'm concerned that I may have too much restriction in the -10 fuel line for both of the fuel pumps. Either that, or I have something in my fuel filter that needs to be cleaned out so when I return home, my first order of business will be to clean the filter element. I have also decided that I will run a completely separate power wire and fuse for each fuel pump which will allow me to use the N/C connection on each fuel pump relay to light a red LED if the relay looses power indicating a blown fuse. I might even tie these into the datalogit.