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Cheers,
I may have a go at chasing a reader down.
I have one I used on my Subaru but not sure if it will work on the 7
I don't even know were the access port is.
is it a standard OBD 2 poet?
I've replaced every vac hose I could get to and all the external solenoids but at 800 bucks a pop I haven't replaced the solenoid box at this point.
I'm a fan of good cooling so a new PWR radiator went in with hoses and rubber mounts.
I'm hoping the effort pays off
(p.s it will not let me log on. But maybe you are already a member?0
(p.s. 2: Yes it is not a standard OBD 2 port. It is a JDM something or other.)
Our cars don't have check engine lights. Instead the ecu throws the car into "limp mode". You are supposed to go to the dealer if your car starts running bad (limp mode).
If you do not know this, you will be chasing phantom issues forever.
Thanks for that, I'll have a look tonight.
yes stock ECU , have a power FC but waiting till I have exhaust and injectors and a twin turbo upgraded wheels.
Was chasing a passengers side window problem that was resolved.
Decided that might as well replace front speakers as I already replaced the rears.
Managed to fond a direct fit Kenwood 6" which was fine with me.
Desoldered the OEM wires and plug and all fit sweet
Finally got all the stuff I needed in from Japan to sort out this sloppy shift.
Was sorta amazed to to the reminants of the bottom bush. There was nothing left on the shifter.
Anyway needless to say with everything replaced shifting is so much nicer
Those little lengths are a lot different looking than the hoses in the standard vacuum system diagram. Haha.
Changing out the shifter bushings was very rewarding. I wondered why I waited years to do that. My shifter was really flopping around.
The stock shift **** is quite heavy (maybe 300 grams). I also added some collar weights under the shift boot, so I have about 700 grams of top swing weight in the shaft.
Surprisingly it makes shifting a lighter touch.
When you have the door cards off, look to replacing all the anti squeak stripping and rattle proofing foam. The foam on the metal door hangers disappears over time and those metal clips can me a major source of annoying rattles.
Those little lengths are a lot different looking than the hoses in the standard vacuum system diagram. Haha.
Incredible how fragile they become after a bucket load of heat cycles under that manifold.
Trying to remove them is near impossible
Originally Posted by Redbul
Changing out the shifter bushings was very rewarding. I wondered why I waited years to do that. My shifter was really flopping around.
It's so good Mazda have still managed to keep the whole process quite simple still, I love the feel of the fresh bushings. Lucky shifting has always been a pet hate of mine.
I still was a little unsure about the metal aftermarket bushing so stayed with OEM
Originally Posted by Redbul
The stock shift **** is quite heavy (maybe 300 grams). I also added some collar weights under the shift boot, so I have about 700 grams of top swing weight in the shaft.
Surprisingly it makes shifting a lighter touch.
That's very interesting, I have always preferred the heavier shift **** for that lightness you mention but have never actually thought about adding addition weight
Originally Posted by Redbul
When you have the door cards off, look to replacing all the anti squeak stripping and rattle proofing foam. The foam on the metal door hangers disappears over time and those metal clips can me a major source of annoying rattles.
i've been pretty lucky that all the door hardware seemed to be surprisingly intact,
My biggest drama has been trying to locate a rattle in the back. It drives me nuts. I have replaces the two side bushing rubbers for the tail gate, I have padded and secured the jack equipment and made sure nothing is loose but still the bloody rattles.
I think I may need to do bushing and pillow ball stuff in the suspension and possibly drive shafts, From initial looking the shafts don't seem serviceable
Yeah I spent a ton refurbishing my suspension and got rid of the random clunkiness (pillow ***** come to mind) One early and short lived remedy was to spray liquid wrench (or equivalent) on some of the control arm bushings. Seemed to loosen them up.
Check the actual latch of the hatch. ( I used chair leg bottom foams to cause the rubber bumpers to hold the hatch up higher and make the clasp hold firmer. Still there today.)
The spare tire hold-down.
Muffler hangers vs tie down hooks.
Dust guards for the brakes.
For a while recently, I had a bothersome squeal every time I started up the car. Thought maybe a water pump dying.
Turned out it was the power antenae going up, as I had the radio on. Took a while to get penetrating oil to quiet it down.
I can definitely appreciate the time and effort that you put into suspension, I've also priced new bushings for all components and it definitely not cheap.
Plan is to buy used components and swap new bushings in offline. There is a bit of a clunk fest going on but not too bad.
Actually surprised the rear latch doesn't have some degree of adjustment.
Played around with a few other things today so will test it out tomorrow. It goes in for final inspection tomorrow
I thought you wee going for final inspection today.
I did and the b astards knocked me back on a worn pillow ball 😞
I've ordered two locally at a stupid inflated price from Mazda and I'll order another set for the drivers side ( RHS ) from japan at half the price and do them a little later on
In Canada we are sent to private garages, who then have us at there mercy. Is it the same way in your state?
We used to have government inspection stations that every car had to visit every year.
They morphed into emissions testing only stations.
Which were shutdown after almost all modern cars easily passed.
Now the police are charged with responsibility to send cars for Vehicle Inspections and those powers seemed to have been disproportionately used against the tuner community.
I think you guys are basically on the same deal as us or vice versa.
New cars are exempt from inspections for 5yrs as far as I know
After that you need a yearly Pink Slip inspection that is done at certified garages.
If your car has been out of rego for "X" amount of time or in my case not registered at all in Australia you need to get a Blue slip.
These are done in selected garages and is a more thorough inspection, if it fails then you have 2 weeks to fix the issues and have them cleared or after 2 weeks you then need to have it inspected again and pay the fee.
Our police force has always had the power to defect our cars for as long as i can remember, you then need to present it to a specific garage to have the defects cleared.
Also the "Tuner" " Enthusiast " " Street Racer " seem to all get lobbed into the same pot. I suppose you have there also the 1 D 01 T crowd who can not but help lower everyone's reputation into the gutter and put targets on all our backs
In our defense I think there is also the HERO Police guy who gets off on chasing down and defecting cars
Hi Cousin across the sea. Here is my 99. I am experimenting with colour matched base lip from an S6. Needs to be better mounted by a body shop (next week).
A good evening to you Sir,
I think the color coding and the subtle lines of the S6 lip actually work quite well.
Never really taken the time to compare the two but i think you might have nailed it my friend.
I have a brand new S8 lip stashed away in my ever increasing stash of new OEM bits I have been squirreling away.
I had thought about color coding the one already on the car as it's in good nick.
Did you spray it yourself
I've been playing around trying to make up a compression mount for my catch can so I can mount it on the firewall lip without having to drill holes. Pre paint, first test fit
Nice fit, I have a big empty space on the RHS that I thought i would take advantage of. I need to get into the LHS shortly to mount up some sensors for oil pressure and water and oil temp
05-26-22, 10:46 PM
