When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I haven't done much to the car, but I do have some work planned for it. A few like new offset bushings for front upper control arms, a new 2 stage 22 inch Burns Stainless racing muffler and widen wheels for 315 size tires. I am still undecided about the rear. Should I go to 315 or add fender flares and go to 335. I hate to have to cut the rear fenders to install the fender flares.
OK, It might be time to bring this old build thread up to date. I have recently been completely changing the set up on the car for the last 3 years. Unfortunately I have had major bugs and issues to work out but I think I am getting a handle on them and finishing the car up and getting it to the track is and will be in the near future.
Updates:
Engine/Power adders
Semi P-port installed
BW 8374 turbo with short runner manifold
JGS wastegate
Air to Water IC
6 2000cc ID injectors ( Full Function rails)
Electronics:
New Syvec S8 ECU
Plex tuning dash SD500
DBW throttle body
RX8 gas pedal
Other:
MCS triple adjustable coil overs
Tex Racing T101A dog box
Spec twin disk clutch
Tilton Clutch master cylinder
Bunch of Titanium
11 gal Fuel cell
x4 Walbro 450 fuel pumps
Radium Engineering fuel surge tank
Left on the list to finish:
Finish up Fuel cell install and Bulk head
Finish Air to Water set up
8.8 rear diff install with Drive shaft shop axles.
Finish up front aero ( no ideas yet)
Tune
Race
Hey Jim! Thanks for the good luck wish at National. Due to my work schedule, I haven't driven at any autocross events other than Spring National this year. Also, no test/tune with the car this year after I made some changes with spring rates, wheel/tire size and a new aftermarket left rear trailing link. Hopefully, I will have better opportunity to attend more autocross events next year.
I was almost ready to get on the Dyno and decided to double check the compression on the new Semi P port engine. Unfortunately it was low, both rotors had very low compression in the 65-72 psi on all faces. here are some pictures of the tear down.
I found that I had some wear on my irons which I was not happy with and looks to be some blow by after the exhaust port. After doing a quick check on the Apex seals they did not look flat to get a good seal. This engine just has one dyno session on it and a bunch of idling that is about it. I did see that I need to make sure I clearance the side seals better as the clearance was out of Mazda spec. That was my bad.
So now I have boxed the parts up and I will be getting the irons resurfaced and get some work done to the rotors which I should have done before putting it together last time.
I can empathize with your frustration from my own experiences!
Went through this with the aftermarket seals many years ago.
My experience was I had to use Mazda OEM seals for any heat and wear resistance. 3mm Mazda 2 piece if you want more strength.
Mazda seals use an electron beam to heat the wear surface of the seals and then chill it quickly to form a cerametallic wear surface that is very hard (low wear on rotor housings) yet still has a seal body with some ductile properties unlike a full ceramic apex seal.
The tool steel apex seals are tougher against the shock of detonation because they don't have the hardened wear surface, but they are too soft and cause galling of the rotor housing wear surface and warp and wear easily.
I went through 5 or 6 sets of various aftermarket apex seals and tried up to 50:1 premix plus the OMP before I settled on the compromise of OEM 3mm and just the factory OMP on my SSM RX-7.
Another thing you can do to keep any apex seal happy (OEM or aftermarket) is get the rotor housing surface near the spark plugs cooler. When that heats and expands it wears that flat spot on the sides of the apex seal on the "swing angle" wear axis. Cut the grooves in that area and even add radial water ports through the outside of the rotor housing.
Especially on a heavy overlap rotary with a turbo the EGTs are critical to engine internal life as well. Gotta tune for low EGTs and make sure there are no misfires to raise it.
It looks like you still have the LS2 coils?
Those aren't the best for the high rpm and short firing window of the rotary and can cause high rpm misfires. Some ignition system with CDI could help if you do find you have high EGTs in the higher rpms.
Ugh!
At least its early in the off season.
Not saying I am presenting the answers, just relating my own experiences with similar engine symptoms and how I (finally) resolved them on my set-up and ended up running 26psi on EFR 7670 for 2014 season with fairly decent wear.
Good info, i will study that. I have mostly ran stock seals until two motors ago, my choice to run non OEM was that I was searching for a little more boost but like you said the OEM are still a great choice. The LS2 coils are long gone, I have the AEM coils now and have not had any issues so far.
I'm trying the iRotary seals, mostly on the strength that its Dr. Ianetti, and Mazda Comp even sells them and they seem to be well made, but if these don't hold up its back to OEM forever.
I cant see being the apex seals fault. It looks like the ports were not well done and left material protruted. There is no apex seals would had survived that. Just thinking at loud here after seen thos pictures.
painfull for sure , man..
What are the part numbers on the iRotary seals? I'd like to look into them more. I'm running RXParts and am a little concerned of some of the things I've read for guys who track. I'm planning on Buttonwillow in December.
03-01-18, 02:47 AM
