Armen's Build Thread
#27
By the way. I have the template for the aluminum addition of the duct if anyone wants to make the modified ducting to fit the US bumpers. My template will only work with a 25 row oil cooler but i'm sure it can be easily modified to work on a 19 row as well.
#28
More Updates:
The R1 lip is installed!
I also installed the HKS Twin Power and started up the car for a final inspection.
http://vid1343.photobucket.com/album...psghpzxqmm.mp4
Finally, what is a build thread without putting a picture up of your little helper.
STAY TUNED FOR MORE UPDATES. I have a few little dents around the car (6 to be exact) so if everything goes according to plan, the dent remover guy will be at the house on Thursday to work his magic.
The R1 lip is installed!
I also installed the HKS Twin Power and started up the car for a final inspection.
http://vid1343.photobucket.com/album...psghpzxqmm.mp4
Finally, what is a build thread without putting a picture up of your little helper.
STAY TUNED FOR MORE UPDATES. I have a few little dents around the car (6 to be exact) so if everything goes according to plan, the dent remover guy will be at the house on Thursday to work his magic.
#29
All out Track Freak!
iTrader: (263)
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Charlottesville VA 22901
Posts: 10,672
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Cool build
Nice work on the cooler ducts etc...
Be sure the hawk pads aren't the race pads. They look like hawk blues which will ruin the rotors in no time on the street and also leave all kinds of nasty dust all over the car.
Nice work on the cooler ducts etc...
Be sure the hawk pads aren't the race pads. They look like hawk blues which will ruin the rotors in no time on the street and also leave all kinds of nasty dust all over the car.
#30
When I finally get around to tracking my car (time attack as a beginner) I need to decided what pads to use. I'm think Hawk HP plus pads instead of the blue.
#35
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Loving this build! Are you monitoring oil temps?
Years ago a good friend was running 25 row coolers with the USDM front bumper without ducting and his temps went through the roof under hard driving. I'm talking very high--- like 260F as I recall.
I'll give him a call to get all the details but he ended up carefully enlarging the holes for his cooler openings on the front bumper and temps dropped dramatically.
I like both front bars, I don't think you can go wrong with a nice bright red OEM bar in there
Years ago a good friend was running 25 row coolers with the USDM front bumper without ducting and his temps went through the roof under hard driving. I'm talking very high--- like 260F as I recall.
I'll give him a call to get all the details but he ended up carefully enlarging the holes for his cooler openings on the front bumper and temps dropped dramatically.
I like both front bars, I don't think you can go wrong with a nice bright red OEM bar in there
#36
It Just Feels Right
iTrader: (11)
Loving this build! Are you monitoring oil temps?
Years ago a good friend was running 25 row coolers with the USDM front bumper without ducting and his temps went through the roof under hard driving. I'm talking very high--- like 260F as I recall.
I'll give him a call to get all the details but he ended up carefully enlarging the holes for his cooler openings on the front bumper and temps dropped dramatically.
Years ago a good friend was running 25 row coolers with the USDM front bumper without ducting and his temps went through the roof under hard driving. I'm talking very high--- like 260F as I recall.
I'll give him a call to get all the details but he ended up carefully enlarging the holes for his cooler openings on the front bumper and temps dropped dramatically.
Or you can go 99 spec bumper. Most importantly is to monitor the temps to see if the ducting is keeping your temps in line, esp if you start tracking it.
And I love my Hawk DTCs. They stop me like an anchor (with stock wheels & HP). That said, try the blues and see how you like them.
#37
Thanks for the input everyone. I also like both bars and that is why I wanted to get feedback. I think I'm going to stick with the R1 strut bar for now. I have the cusco bar up for sale but if it doesn't sell I'll just keep it in storage and switch bars from time to time to change it up.
GoodfellaFD3S- my next move is to get a oil temp gauge. I have been doing research on where to put the sensor and a lot of guys use sandwich plates but I like the idea of changing the entire pedestal. I know other put it in the oil drain plug but there is a lot of debate on if that gives accurate readings or not.
TomU- I might have to switch to a 99 spec bumper if I have temp issues. I really like the look of the 93-98 bumpers though (I'm probably one of only few on the forum that prefer the 93 over the 99 spec). The blues have A LOT of meat left on them so I'll definitely consider trying them out.
This is what I am thinking of getting (minus the last two gauges on the list)
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXD.php
Or, I already have the autometer boost gauge so I might just get the oil temp gauge to match. http://www.autometer.com/2-5-8-oil-t...mech-4396.html
GoodfellaFD3S- my next move is to get a oil temp gauge. I have been doing research on where to put the sensor and a lot of guys use sandwich plates but I like the idea of changing the entire pedestal. I know other put it in the oil drain plug but there is a lot of debate on if that gives accurate readings or not.
TomU- I might have to switch to a 99 spec bumper if I have temp issues. I really like the look of the 93-98 bumpers though (I'm probably one of only few on the forum that prefer the 93 over the 99 spec). The blues have A LOT of meat left on them so I'll definitely consider trying them out.
This is what I am thinking of getting (minus the last two gauges on the list)
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXD.php
Or, I already have the autometer boost gauge so I might just get the oil temp gauge to match. http://www.autometer.com/2-5-8-oil-t...mech-4396.html
Last edited by ArmAnirx7; 01-07-16 at 10:20 AM.
#38
Boilermakers!
iTrader: (157)
Another option to monitor oil temp is use the Corksport rotary banjo bolt.
Both bar looks good, only thing about the R1 bar is that it doesn't have a lot of clearance to the charge pipe, you might soon find rub marks on the pipe especially if you have soft motor mount.
Clean engine bay nonetheless.
Both bar looks good, only thing about the R1 bar is that it doesn't have a lot of clearance to the charge pipe, you might soon find rub marks on the pipe especially if you have soft motor mount.
Clean engine bay nonetheless.
#39
#40
Another option to monitor oil temp is use the Corksport rotary banjo bolt.
Both bar looks good, only thing about the R1 bar is that it doesn't have a lot of clearance to the charge pipe, you might soon find rub marks on the pipe especially if you have soft motor mount.
Clean engine bay nonetheless.
Both bar looks good, only thing about the R1 bar is that it doesn't have a lot of clearance to the charge pipe, you might soon find rub marks on the pipe especially if you have soft motor mount.
Clean engine bay nonetheless.
#42
It Just Feels Right
iTrader: (11)
I have also looked at that option. Only problem is, my fitting is a 90 degree AN fitting for the oil line. I will need to change the fitting on the line to connect to a banjo fitting. I was trying to figure out a solution without having to change the fitting on the oil line.
You will need an AN banjo fitting to use the corksport banjo bolt - or get a new pedestal (which is more expensive than a fitting)
#44
So the dents are all out!!
The dent guy I used did an awesome job. About a month ago he was on my street removing dents off a 2014 Porsche 911. I went up to the owner of the car and had a conversation with him. He said he uses these guys all the time and they do great work. I naturally introduced myself to the dent remover (Joe) and asked if he could give me a quote on my rx7.
He came by and took a look at the car briefly and he said he can do the entire car for $200. I said alright. I thought I had 6 dents and the price seemed kind of high but I rather pay more for a very good job then less for someone that does not have that much experience. After some scheduling changes we finally decided on today.
Joe shows up and we walk around the car and he shows me dents that I never noticed. We counted about 15 SMALL, TINY dents. I must be blind, but in my defense, he has a better eye for these things. Turns out he saw those dents when he gave the quote so that $200 for the whole car sounds a lot better now.
Before Joe showed up I tried marking all the areas that I saw a dent with a sticky. I thought I had 6 or so but no...
Joe shows up and starts his thing.
So here is the result. I could not be happier! He even removed a dent that was on my hood caused by a clamp that broke and hit the bottom of the hood causing a outward dent.
His Technique for the little ones was to use a hot glue and pull method. Did not damage the paint as all. Here is his contact info for all of you guys in the Los Angeles and Orange County that need a good dent remover that has very fair pricing. Let him know Armen from Torrance with the Rx7 referred you (I make no money for referrals. I just want to share my experience.) He has great Yelp reviews as well. Supreme Smart Repairs - 26 Photos - Body Shops - Huntington Beach, CA - Reviews - Yelp
The dent guy I used did an awesome job. About a month ago he was on my street removing dents off a 2014 Porsche 911. I went up to the owner of the car and had a conversation with him. He said he uses these guys all the time and they do great work. I naturally introduced myself to the dent remover (Joe) and asked if he could give me a quote on my rx7.
He came by and took a look at the car briefly and he said he can do the entire car for $200. I said alright. I thought I had 6 dents and the price seemed kind of high but I rather pay more for a very good job then less for someone that does not have that much experience. After some scheduling changes we finally decided on today.
Joe shows up and we walk around the car and he shows me dents that I never noticed. We counted about 15 SMALL, TINY dents. I must be blind, but in my defense, he has a better eye for these things. Turns out he saw those dents when he gave the quote so that $200 for the whole car sounds a lot better now.
Before Joe showed up I tried marking all the areas that I saw a dent with a sticky. I thought I had 6 or so but no...
Joe shows up and starts his thing.
So here is the result. I could not be happier! He even removed a dent that was on my hood caused by a clamp that broke and hit the bottom of the hood causing a outward dent.
His Technique for the little ones was to use a hot glue and pull method. Did not damage the paint as all. Here is his contact info for all of you guys in the Los Angeles and Orange County that need a good dent remover that has very fair pricing. Let him know Armen from Torrance with the Rx7 referred you (I make no money for referrals. I just want to share my experience.) He has great Yelp reviews as well. Supreme Smart Repairs - 26 Photos - Body Shops - Huntington Beach, CA - Reviews - Yelp
#46
Remove interior panels?? it must be very bad. If you want, send some pictures to Joe of the dents and you can see what he charges and if he needs you to remove the panels. I know that you obviously cannot use him since you are in another state (don't tell him that lol) but you can still get an idea of how much it should cost and if you really need to remove anything. Doesn't hurt to get a second opinion.
#47
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (10)
Remove interior panels?? it must be very bad. If you want, send some pictures to Joe of the dents and you can see what he charges and if he needs you to remove the panels. I know that you obviously cannot use him since you are in another state (don't tell him that lol) but you can still get an idea of how much it should cost and if you really need to remove anything. Doesn't hurt to get a second opinion.