pzr2

iTrader: (3)

You love to see it

Assembly documentation is absolutely appreciated, we all know how much work this is for you

Only thing I can really think of doing while the engine is out is cleaning. I'm very averse to pointing a power washer at the engine bay while the engine and its electronics are still in it, but man is it a good feeling when all the nooks and crannies are cleaned out.

Jesturr

Lower Intake Manifold

Installing the LIM onto the block involves:

1. Cleaning, installing LIM -> Block Gasket
2. Attaching one vacuum hose from the rats nest to the lower fitting deep on the LIM
3. Connecting 2x Grey EFI connectors, 1x Green Fuel tsensor connector to the fuel rail
4. Torquing the LIM to the block, 5x bolts and 2x nuts, 12mm, 144-196inlbs
5. Attach 3x Secondary Turbo vacuum hoses to the LIM crossover fittings
6. Attach 1x Solenoid to the ACV, 1x nut, 10mm, 70-95inlbs
7. Attach 2x vacuum hoses, 3x single terminal connectors, to the ACV
8. Attach 1x vacuum hose, 1x fuel return hose, to the FPR
9. Secure the engine harness to the LIM bracket, 1x nut, 10mm, 70-95inlbs
10. Connect the fuel hose that bridges the primary and secondary fuel rail

Hindsight: I did not install the coolant hose from the back of the block to the TB until later. It was really hard. If I could do it again, I'd do it now, before the LIM went on.
Parts?
N3A1-13-681A (Hose, rear iron to throttle body)
N3A1-13-681B (Hose, throttle body to pipe, looks like a short macaroni elbow)
4 of 99286-1400G (Clamps for above hoses)

I clean the surface around the intake ports (the tape Mazda uses leaves behind some gross residue) and slide the LIM and gasket over the studs on the intake ports. With the LIM not bolted up fully, I found now was the easiest time to do a few of the ancillaries.

There is a silicone hose that slides into a fitting deep inside of the LIM that you can’t get to bolted up, I slide that back on.


The two EFI connectors don’t have much room to maneuver after everything’s bolted up, I use the extra space to get those connected back up as well.


With those three attached, the LIM is torqued onto the engine. 5 bolts and 2 nuts, each to 12-16 ftlbs (144-196 inlbs). There is a vacuum hose that wants to exit the front side of the LIM and go to the turbo Y-pipe. I didn’t make sure it was in the right spot the first time and had to redo this assembly to get it out.



On the inside of the LIM now, above the engine, there are three vacuum lines that go into three fittings on the inside of the LIM, stacked into a vertical row of three. There is also the green connector into the fuel rail for the fuel thermosensor.


Right next to these vacuum lines is a solenoid that mounts to the ACV with a little 10mm nut, torqued to 70-95 inlbs.


The ACV has 2 hoses and three connectors. The connectors are all different and should connect up easily. The hoses are almost identical, one attaches to a circular body on the ACV, the other underneath a 90degree pipe fitting towards the back of the engine. I had mine labeled, I'm not sure how you'd tell these apart if you didn't label them.


On the rear of the engine, on the passenger side of the car, the Fuel Pressure Regulator has one fuel return hose and one vacuum hose going to it that reconnect to it.


The engine harness has a small bracket that hangs off a connector in the back of the LIM, a 10mm nut to 95inlbs.


On the front of the engine, the primary and secondary fuel rail is connected with a banjo bolt. I could not find the torque spec for this, so I just did as tight as I could within reason.

Jesturr

Upper Intake Manifold

HINDSIGHT: When I uninstalled my ACV airpipe going to the cat, it took the studs out of the LIM with it. I did not reinstall those studs until after my engine was in the car. It sucked. If I could do it again, I'd install those studs back in now, while the engine is out.

Installing the UIM back onto the engine involves:

1. Install UIM to LIM gasket
2. Attaching 2x black connectors to the underside of the UIM, one AWS, one IAT.
3. Connect 1x coolant hose from rear iron to back of TB
4. Connect 1x coolant hose from rats nest pipe to underneath the TB (**** this hose)
5. Install UIM to LIM, 4x nuts, 1x long bolt, 12mm to 12-16ftlbs (144-192inlbs)
6. Secure UIM to Rats Nest, 1x bolt, 12mm, 12-16ftlbs (144-192inlbs)
7. Installing 4x hoses from the rats nest to the front of the UIM, near the TB
8. Install turbo solenoids to front of UIM, 2x bolts, 10mm, 70-95 inlbs
9. Install ENG ground strap to engine hook, 12mm bolt, 12-16ftlbs (144-192inlbs)
10. Install 2x vacuum hoses, one w/ check valve to UIM, one w/o check valve to TB
11. Install 1x white connecter to ISC
12. Install 1x grey connector to TPS

While sliding the UIM on over the LIM studs, I noticed it was really easy to get one of the ACV vacuum hoses under it pinched against the AWS valve. That’s the bit of the UIM that bulges under the primary intake runner. It takes some finesse but you can lower the UIM while holding the vacuum line out of the way, keeping it from getting pinched.

There are two coolant hoses for the throttle body, one that attach to a fitting at the back, passenger side of the engine, the other to a pipe on the rats nest assembly. Both are easier to install before bolting the UIM on. These hoses go to a fitting on the back of the TB, and also to a fitting on the very bottom of the TB, respectively.




Two connectors underneath the UIM that are also easier before torqueing the UIM down
One connector for the Intake Air Temp sensor, one connector for the AWS valve.


The UIM can be torqued down with four nuts and one long bolt, 12mm torqued down to 12-16 ftlbs (144-192 inlbs). There’s another bolt on the front of the UIM to a bracket on the rats nest, also 12mm, I think also torqued down to 12-16 ftlbs (144-192 inlbs).


Near the oil fill neck, there are four hoses that go to four fittings on the front of the UIM, organized in a square.


On the passenger side of the front of the UIM, there are two turbo control solenoids that bolt to two legs on the UIM with 2x10mm bolts, 70-95 inlbs.


On the rear of the UIM, on the passenger side of the engine, there is an ENG ground to one of the 12mm bolts on the engine hook, 12-16 ftlbs (144-192 inlbs). The FSM shows it instead going to the capped nut on the UIM-LIM. My car ran fine either way, perhaps it doesn't matter.



There is a vacuum hose with a check valve that goes to a fitting underneath the ISC, and then another vacuum hose (with no check valve) that goes to an actuator on the TB.

There is a white connector to the ISC and then a grey connector to the TPS.

Jesturr

Exhaust Manifold

Gaskets, exhaust manifold goes onto the engine. The exhaust nuts are pretty cheap to get new, part number 9YB10-1001. 14mm socket size, torqued down to 48-57 ftlbs.


The heat shield slides on next, you can swing the turbo control valve door open and closed to get it around the arm. Once the heat shield is on, the turbo control actuator can be bolted onto the exhaust manifold. The actuator arm clips into the door arm, and then the bracket bolts into the exhaust manifold with 2x 12mm bolts to 12-16 ftlbs (144-196 inlbs).


Two vacuum lines from the pipe assembly attach to each end of the TCA. The heat shield can be fastened down with a bolt on the side of the exhaust manifold with a small 10mm bolt.

I retighten all the studs that came off the manifold back on, all the larger studs to 12-17ftlbs, the smaller to 70-104inlbs

Jesturr

Turbocharger

There are two hoses on the turbo worth installing before bolting it to the exhaust,
Part numbers:
N3A1-13-536 (Coolant Hose, Turbo intlet)
N3A1-13-546 (Coolant Hose, Turbo outlet)
99286-1400G (Clamps for above hoses)

The turbo slides over the studs. Before bolting on the turbos, I install both coolant hoses and the one oil pipe. The first coolant hose goes to the upper fitting on the WP body. The Oil Pipe is a 17mm fitting that gets tightened down to 14-16 ftlbs (168-192inlbs) The second coolant hose goes to a really hard to get to fitting on the coolant intake pipe of the WP body.


The two turbo oil drains have a gasket that needs to be installed, one on the block and one on a pipe extending out from the block behind the OMP.
Part numbers:
N3A1-14-293 (Gasket, goes between the block and the turbo drain pipes, and also between the turbo drain pipes and the turbo)
N3A2-14-293 (Gasket, one-off, goes between two turbo drain pipes for the primary turbocharger.)

The turbo drain pipes fasten to the motor with 2x10mm nuts each, four total, 70-95.4 inlbs.

The turbo fastens onto the exhaust manifold with 5x14mm nuts, 2x14mm bolts, 1x 12mm nut.
Part numbers:
This thread for 14mm lock nuts (2 on the secondary turbo 3 on the primary)
E5B6-13-461B (The weird 12mm nut, this one is expensive)
N390-13-453A (Bolts, turbo to exhaust manifold. Just reuse the old ones)
The 14mm nuts get torqued down to 32-42 ftlbs, the 14mm bolts to 28-38 ftlbs, the 12mm nut 16-21 ftlbs.



With the turbos on the engine, the two turbo actuators connect to two vacuum lines on the pipe assembly, one for the W/G and one for the TCA.



The primary turbo intake elbow attached to the primary turbo, and then the pipe assembly to the intake elbow studs, 2x10mm nuts to 70-95.4 inlbs.

Jesturr

Alternator
The alternator fastens to the engine, one 14mm bolt on the alternator body to the front cover (28-38 ftlbs), one 12mm bolt from the alternator bracket to the WP housing (14-18 ftlbs). I thread both on and then torque both down.


Air Pipe Bracket
Attaches to the engine with 2x 10mm bolts, 70-95.4 inlbs.


Pressure Chamber
2x pressure hoses attach to the pressure chamber, one from the rats nest and one loose that goes to the Y pipe.

The pressure chamber attaches to the UIM with a 10mm bolt, and also to the air pipe bracket with a 10mm bolt. Maneuver the pressure hose to where it can go into the Y-pipe later.

Clutch

I got this Exedy kit during Sakebomb’s Black Friday sale, it got in around New Years ish.

I cleaned everything with brake clean and installed the new clutch disc and pressure plate onto the new flywheel.

I added lubricant to the splines of the clutch disc.

The new pilot bearing in the flywheel came dry, but I've seen a video on Petit where they recommend lubricating it. I used the same grease to lubricate the inside of the pilot bearing.

Following the FSM, I slowly torqued down each of the bolts onto the pressure plate until each was torqued to 14-19ftlbs. With that, the engine should be ready to go into the car.

Dressing the Engine Bay

I didn’t do much to prep the engine bay - if I’m honest I just wanted to get the engine in the car. The longer I looked at it on the stand, the more I would wonder if I messed up some step in the reassembly or if some sealing surface would leak or what have you.

The most I did was clean the walls of the engine bay with Griot’s Engine Cleaner and Optimum No-Rinse, and replace the four heater hoses.

Parts:
FD01-61-211A (Hose, Firewall to Pipe)
FD01-61-214V (Hose, Pipe to front of WP Housing)
FD01-61-212A (Hose, Pipe to Firewall)
FD01-61-213B (Hose, Block to Pipe)


I took a look at the clutch fork and the release bearing, both felt good enough to where I didn't replace them. I did sand down some weird corrosion on the input shaft and apply new lubricant to all the moving parts, and, as best I could, clean the bell housing.

cloud9

iTrader: (4)

This thread is amazing. Very cool to see all the detail in your updates.

Jesturr

Holy moly work got crazy, I didn’t get to work on the car all of February.

ENGINE INSTALL

I had my uncle come over for the extra hands. I attempted to do this solo the previous day but it didn’t feel safe, this is a 4+ hands kind of job.

I have read everywhere that this is one of the easier cars to put an engine into, but this didn’t seem to be the case for me? If I lined up the clutch and input shaft first, the engine mounts wouldn’t clear the subframe into their “buckets”. If I lifted the engine up and lined the mounts with the subframe holes, the clutch cover would run into the input shaft as it lowered.

We got it done in the end, our process for installing the engine involved the following:

1. Prepare the car
   1. Clear working area for the engine hoist (small garage problems)
   2. Jack the car up in the front on jack stands
   3. Support and raise the transmission with the jack
   4. Chock the hood up to the highest position
   5. Clear the AC compressor out of the drop area
   6. Clear the charging harness, spark plug wires, PS hoses out of the drop area
2. Prepare the engine
   1. Double check engine hooks are torqued
   2. Mount the engine on the engine hoist
   3. Remove the engine from the engine stand and adapter
   4. Install oil cooler pipe, 1x 23mm Banjo bolt
   5. Install PS Pump & bracket, 2x bolts and 4x nuts between 12mm and 14mm
3. Install the engine in the car
   1. Maneuver the engine back and down into the engine bay, keep an eye on
      1. AC Compressor - often gets wedged between engine bay and PS bracket
      2. Fuel Lines - often gets wedged between engine and bell housing
      3. Subframe studs - if not in the right spot, will catch on subframe
   2. Get the studs of the engine mounts aligned into the subframe “buckets”
   3. Align the input shaft with the clutch
   4. Align the two engine dowels to the bell housing
   5. Shove the engine and transmission together
   6. Install the trans bolts, tighten in stages until the engine and trans are mated
   7. Remove the jack from under the transmission - it should be supported by the engine hoist now
   8. Align the engine mount holes and drop the engine in, shoving the engine into alignment with the subframe
   9. Torque engine mounts down
4. Celebrate
   1. Treat your helping hand(s) to dinner

1. Supplemental
   1. If the engine mounts and input shaft-clutch alignment refuse to work together in step 3.1
   2. We removed the engine mount “puck” from the arm on the drivers side of the engine and placed it in the subframe
   3. As the engine and transmission mated up, still supported by the jack+engine crane,
   4. Under the car, lift the engine mount out of the bucket, install it onto the engine mount arm
   5. Slip the engine mount heat shield over the engine mount
   6. Continue from step 3.8

Prepare the car
Our tiny urban garage can fit an FD and a washer dryer, but the car needs to be pushed out into our driveway to have room for the engine hoist. An engine-less FD is light enough to sit in the driver seat and move with your leg. Make sure, wherever the car rests, there is enough room for a jack and a human body to fit under the car from the side.

With space for the engine hoist, the car is jacked up in the front and placed on jack stands. I support the bottom of the transmission with my jack, coming from the side of my car. My bell housing was supported by a spare engine stand adapter and some C-clamps to the subframe. I removed those now and jack the transmission up as high as it can go in the tunnel.


The hood is propped up as high as it can go with these pieces of wood I found, against the divots in the hood support and the rubber stoppers on the fender.


I use a bungee cord to tie the charging harness and ignition coil wires to the strut tower. I use another bungee cord to hook two of the loose bolts in on the AC compressor, and wrap the cord around one of my coilover studs on the strut tower.

Did one of your AC compressor bolts disappear while the car sat? One of mine did, it ended up hidden in the nest of piping on the steering rack. In hindsight, I’d have removed these and baggy’d them.

Prepare the engine
Assemble the engine crane in front of the car, and wheel the stand over to it. I double check that the two engine hooks are torqued, and support the engine on the hoist. In hindsight, I think the install would’ve gone smoother if the engine were tilted forward, with the rear hook supported higher than the front hook. The engine is hoisted up until the weight of the engine is relieved off the stand, the stand should slide off the adapter.

Oil Cooler Pipe

Parts:
2 of 4 total, 99562-1800, oil banjo bolt washer.

Uninstall the adapter and the adapter stud from the side of the block. The oil cooler pipe is installed into the drivers side of the engine. First, a pipe bracket slips onto one of the PS bracket studs. The pipe is fastened into the oil pedestal with two new washer gaskets and the banjo bolt, 23mm to 40-50ftlbs.


In the past I noted the front cover banjo bolt as 19mm, that was wrong. I just measured it again, it’s 23mm.

PS Pump Bracket

Slide the PS Pump bracket over the studs on the side of the engine.
There are 2x bolts and 4x nuts. I didn’t write down in my notes the size of these fasteners. I believe there are 2x 12mm nuts and a single 14mm nut near where the AC mounts, and 2x 12mm bolts.


The last nut goes up near the PS reservoir onto a stud on the Alternator bracket. 14mm.

Engine Install

With the trans supported by the jack and lifted as high in the trans tunnel as it can go, the engine and hoist are wheeled over to the engine bay. It’s an act of moving the engine further back in the car, then lowering it slightly to avoid the hood, then wheeling it back some more, lowering it some more, repeat.

As the engine gets closer to the trans, the AC compressor is moved and lifted into place on the bracket. In all our attempts, the AC compressor and the fuel hoses were the two things that kept getting caught in the way, it will be good to monitor these as the engine is maneuvered into place. The AC compressor often got caught under the engine and prevented it from dropping, the fuel hoses between the engine and bell housing.

There are two “buckets” in the subframe that the engine mounts land in. With the engine mounted on the hoist tilted someone forward, you should be able to clear the clutch cover off the input shaft and land the studs of the engine mounts into the subframe slots.


With the engine mount studs in the subframe slots, supporting the front of the engine up should line up the input shaft and clutch.

Problem:

In practice, when we lined the engine mounts up with the subframe slots, the clutch cover would contact the input shaft as it would get lowered. If instead we lined up the input shaft and the clutch, and then tried to push the engine back into place, the engine mount studs would run into the subframe. I’m not sure why? Maybe the oil pan brace lowered the studs of the engine mounts just enough to where it couldn’t slide over the top of the subframe.

In the end, I removed the engine mount off the driver side mount arm and left it in its place in the subframe. We lined up and mated the clutch and input shaft, and then fasted the two together with the bell housing bolts. With the mated engine+transmission together and still lifted by the jack and engine hoist, I went under the car and removed the loose engine mount from the subframe, and fastened it down back onto the engine mount arm. 14mm nut, there is a nub on the engine mount that will keep it from spinning on the mount arm when you torque it down to 40-50ftlbs. It was tight, but with a bit of grease and a small hammer, I forced the heat shield back around the engine mount.


Everything in place the engine is lowered into the subframe and fastened down. The first obstacle was the loose AC compressor, which got in the way of the lowering engine and had to get properly fastened to the AC/PS bracket.
The second obstacle - once everything was clear, the engine sat too far to the drivers side for the engine mount studs to land in the subframe. We had one person tugging the engine in the direction it needed to go while the other person dropped the hoist somewhat quickly.

Engine in! The two engine mounts are each tied to the subframe with one fender washer and one 14mm bolt, down to 34-49ftlbs.

In total, this took 3 hours from start to finish, plus some extra time to find an oil leak on the Lexus my uncle took to get here.

I gave Chris from Sakebomb a text to see how he installs engines, he said that the engine mounts should go into the subframe first and then the front of the engine can be supported to get the input shaft into the clutch. I've written this throughout this post, but I think I could've accomplished this if the engine was mounted onto the hoist tilted forward.

We also considered lowering the subframe off the car a little, to make clearance for the mount studs as the engine moved back. I’ve read on the forums that the subframe is a PITA to tighten back onto the chassis once it’s loosened. I'm not sure.

However it happened, it happened. The clutch release bearing was fit into the clutch plate to verify it worked (it did!). We got dim sum for dinner that night to celebrate.

Jesturr

Thank you! I appreciate it.

estevan62274

iTrader: (32)

Love the thread!
Keep up the awesome work Sir!!

Jesturr

Got her started this evening.


I'm over the moon. I guess Mazda running the engine at the factory helped with the first start. No drips, no leaks, idled perfectly to the old motor out the gate.

I let it run in the driveway for 30 min while burping coolant. It took a bit of load back into the garage for the night. This new clutch feels so good!

I just finished re-checking the oil level, power steering level, and coolant level. Tomorrow will be a test drive around the block a few times, then an oil change and onto breakin.

Here are the notes I'll begin processing to catch up.

Pete_89T2

iTrader: (4)

Congratulations! It's a great feeling when they start back up & run!

EREBUS

Awesome work man!
All the hard and methodical work paying off!!