On the way back from the race I stopped and got gas. I went to restart it but it would not crank. I figured it was probably the starter so I pushed started it. Bam it started right up and I drove it home.

 

Ok I found the problem and fixed it temperley while I shop for a replacement.

 

Titghtned up the fittings I now I get full boost all the time. She is a blast to drive. Those dual wastegates out to the atmosphere is something that takes time to get used to. Next thing to tackle were the wheels. Something much lighter than what I had on the car.

 

So I went with rpf1 front 18inch 38 offset 9.5 width. For the rear 18 inch 35 offset 10 inch width. Tires 255 front and 275 rear. The fitment was perfect and these and I can feel the difference in wieght compared to my other trims. I am super happy with the results. Rpf1 are not only light but strong. Next move was the installation of the ohlins suspension.

 

Wheels on the car and I am hanging out with some friends

 

Finally going to put on the ohlins coilovers. I am hoping that this helps with ride quality, cornering and that rear end that kicks out under wot.

 

Poor alignment might contribute to losing the rear under throttle. Don't forget that after the ohlins install.

I had issues with 255 wide fronts on a +43 offset hitting the fender lip and pulling it down. Even after going from eibachs to 11k ohlins. Might want to consider rolling your fenders and maxxing out camber.

Don't be surprised if the stiffer ohlins lets the rear kick out more. They are way stiff in the rear to promote rotation. Had to turn mine out a few clicks in the back to tone it down.

 

Alexidmen you were right. I installed the ohlins and my ride hieght was 25inch front and 25 inch back. Took it for a drive and bam there it is. Getting out of a gas station I turned the wheel and it pulled the fender. I fixed it back but the damage was already done. The fix was rolling the front fenders and raising the car to 25.5 front and rear. I am not worried about the damage because the car was going to paint anyways. Better it happened then than later.

 

 

25.5 inches but that fender was getting to me.

 

Ouch. At least you were planning on paint anyways. I had great results with the eastwood fender roller after I cut the tabs off the fenders. Made a thread about it in the 3rd gen section.

Did you install the ohlins at the recommended settings or lower than standard?

I learned that camber plays a big role as well. I plan on maxxing my camber this winter for tire clearance and better contact at autocross. I am eventually hoping to run 285s on the +43 wheels I have. I am barely getting by with -1.5 degrees up front.

Beautiful car and nice work!

 

Thank you Alexdimen. I still rub the inner fender every once and a while. I am going to check out you thread to see what you did to fix the problem. My front fenders are rolled already and domt touch. Again it's just that inner fender. I dont want to eat the inner fender and then the hit the electrical.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...nders-1132416/

 

Aleximen I just read your thread in regards to the fenders. Wiow!!! I am going to remove the tire and wheel to see see if I can do it to my car. Thank you and brap brap brother

 

I bought oem front strut bar. Next move is to send it to be repainted.

 

No more B.S. Sorry I meant no more ABS. Lol. Removed the ABS and added a wildwood porportioning valve. The abs just does not seem to keep up under hard braking. I am still on stock brake calipers but I want something better. Not sure what brake kit to go with yet. I am still researching what is my best choice

 

I do use hawk brakes and brembo rotors. I am ready for a big brake kit and I know the ABS will not work well. I want to do front and rear big brake kit. I read of so many cars having problems with big brake lifts. Most of the complaints I hear is to much front bias. Like I said still researching which one will be my best option. The car will see mostly street driving but she will do autocross and roadcourses.

 

Got this undertray from the guys at LRB. Being I am on a vmount set up, this undertray works well with my setup. I believe in buying from vendors that cater to the FD platform. It's my way of supporting them and also getting good quality aftermarket parts that either keep our cars on the road or makes it better.

 

I'm just curious. With all the holes, what is the purpose of having the undertray at all?

 

Twin charged I am no mechanical engineer but I figured it was better than not one at all. For what I understand an undertray helps with cooling and protecting the under body of the vehicle. I figured one with holes would make it better since I have a vmount setup. Please correct me if I am wrong or if you have any better suggestions. I want what ever improves the car.

 

I'm not sure. Generally you'd want the area between the bumper and the radiator/intercooler sealed so Air is forced through them.

Quality VMounts usually have their own ducting that does all this. If you don't have ducting and this is closing any gap in front of the radiator then it probably helps.

 

This is an under car tray, is it? It still lets the hot air out from the rad fan, but it might provide some protection for any debri. That tray is not for ducting iar into the rad and intercooler.
I have a different one, with no holes, but not on the car cause it will push the hot air from the rad back up into the engine bay.
Just my 2 cents..

 

My vmount is a rotary extreme and has been well developed. The one I have is the monster vmount and it is ducted. I believe the undertray will allow for the engine bay to release some of that hot air. Once again I could be wrong but that is my beleaf and the reason why I purchased this undertray. The purpose of my build is to try to improve a great sports car. I know we do have some mechanical engineers on this forum that may be able to chime in and shine some light on this topic.

 

it almost completely installed. Going to ha e to use some spacers but it will work

 

OEM front strut bar refurbished and installed.