TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

Not running primary injectors messes with throttle response. Ideally if you are running only one bank of injectors, you block of the secondaries vs the primaries. Would keep primaries especially given you are going through the trouble of making the twins work.

need-a-t2

iTrader: (9)

to be clear you mean the primaries being mounted closer to the intake ports helps? I'm still planning on running a primary and secondary set-up, just mounting the injectors in the one fuel rail.

evo_koa

iTrader: (2)

Are you going to run the turbos sequential or parallel?

need-a-t2

iTrader: (9)

the plan is to run them sequential.

evo_koa

iTrader: (2)

What ECU are you going to use?

need-a-t2

iTrader: (9)

likely the haltech 2500 or Link

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

Yes, primaries work better with injection closer to the intake. Moving to all secondary position is more of a drag racer thing. But eventually companies like ProJay started moving back towards including a primary rail(their intakes usually didn't leave room for primary injectors in the stock location)

need-a-t2

iTrader: (9)

sounds like sagely advice, so i just ordered the radium primary rail and FPD. I talked to my tuner as well and he's fine with running the 1050s in the primary and secondary positions, so that's the new plan!

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Agree that running primaries in the stock location will get you the best result.

Not to turn this into a for sale thread, but I have a 2500 that I am possibly looking to sell (I'd like to go with a Nexus R3). It only has a little bit of use and I actually have a brand new universal premium wiring harness and wideband (used, but barely) for it if you were interested...

need-a-t2

iTrader: (9)

Trying to finishing up the last of the interior installation. Replacing jute, while I fell it's necessary, it a fairly large PITA. This is the last of it.


Also had to replace the pass side rear speaker bracket. I couldn't bring myself to shell out the money for an aftermarket set when the plans are available already, and simple enough to make. You'll notice new webbing on the seat belt as well as the one that came with the car was from a tan interior. I used that service that lists on ebay all the time and was happy enough with it, that I got both sides done


Moving along in the interior I need to mount a DBW throttle pedal. I have a spare RX8 pedal kicking around so why not use that? This is the 2nd revision of the bracket, and is publicly available for free download


It places the pedal very close to the stock pedal location:




RX8 pedal fits very well in the footwell

need-a-t2

iTrader: (9)

on to more fun things, I'm appreciative of everyone's advice and ended up getting a radium fuel rail and FPD, but first here's the last iteration of what will now be a dust block off plate for the primary injectors. I got new oil injectors as well as I still plan on running the OMP (and premix).


and the shiney new goods


Here's my solution to the rear fitting on the secondary rail. It's a low profile swivel fitting.


It is still very much in the way of the heater core line though.


And since I'm now running primaries on the primary rail, I need something to block the un-used holes in the fuel rail. It was a good excuse to get my cnc lathe back up and running

Pete_89T2

iTrader: (4)

^Lol, I ended up doing the same with my rear speakers, but that was before the aftermarket brackets became available from JP3 Motorsports. Same deal when I had to restore my A/C - I wish JP3 had their A/C kits available back then, would have been worth the cost cause that job was a PITA!


^That is sweet! My FD is running a DBW setup with the RX8 pedal that the PO installed with a bracket he fabricated. It's functional, but I'm not too crazy about the pedal position - I've gotten used to it, but it puts the pedal out a bit too high relative to the others. Getting a more OEM-like pedal placement has been on my to-do list, so I'm super excited to hear you're going to make your RX8 pedal adapter publicly available! My son does 3D printing as a hobby, so I'll be happy to prototype whatever you come up with

need-a-t2

iTrader: (9)

I updated the post with the download link for the pedal mount. Enjoy!

Pete_89T2

iTrader: (4)

Thank you!

need-a-t2

iTrader: (9)

Picking back up, I decided to dust off the old anodizing supplies and give the injector blocks a once over. Powder coat just didn't seem right, and I'm a firm believer that raw aluminum has no place in the engine bay. You can quote me later on that when I still have a raw aluminum intercooler, radiator, and intake tubes...haha

Anyways, I gave it a go and they came out....just ok...They are anodized but not as thick as i was shooting for. Here they are in the bath


Installed and looking ok.


with that sorted and while waiting on fittings for the fuel system, I decided to tackle the oil filter once again. I had the design sorted out with 3d prints so off to the CNC we go.


This adapter pushes the oil filter forward around 3". About the only way to accomplish that was to drill some passage holes thru the adapter and cap them after the fact.


The caps are a press fit, but also welded in place for good measure. One thing I don't want to deal with is a tiny leak thru a porous weld joint. I was going to go back and re-machine the surfaces flat again, but then remembered that I'm lazy and this part points at the firewall, and anyone inspecting my car that thoroughly deserves to see my shameful welds.


As with everything custom like this (or so it seems) there's always a catch. One of the original mounting studs for the oil pedestal runs right thru one of the passageways in the adapter. So the easiest solution I could think of was to drill and tap a new hole in a place that it wasn't in the way. I'm fairly sheepish about drilling holes in my engine block, especially since it's all together and installed in the car now, so I didn't trust my hand to drill it where it needed to be, so I 3d printed a little drill guide which worked perfectly.


Installing the adapter isn't the most fun thing, but it only needs to happen a handful of times, but it fits!


And so does the oil filter now! I'll need to move the clutch line around a little, but that's super easy.

need-a-t2

iTrader: (9)

My next task is to mount all the major components in the engine bay, so I'm starting with the AC and PS pumps. I was hopfull that I could use the stock mount but the 20B (and the FD as it turn out) both run those off the second pulley out, and I'm looking to have a single belt. so custom mounts are in the cards and I'm going back to my default of 3D printing parts to test fit everything.


First thing I noticed is that I'm going to need at least 1 idler pulley, but more than likely 2. the shot between the main pulley and the AC goes right thru the oil fitting in the front cover. Not ideal...I'm also not sure I like the idea of having a very long stretch kind of in the open that would happen between the alt and PS pump. No worries, just means I need a few more parts. to be continued....