Not running primary injectors messes with throttle response. Ideally if you are running only one bank of injectors, you block of the secondaries vs the primaries. Would keep primaries especially given you are going through the trouble of making the twins work.

 

to be clear you mean the primaries being mounted closer to the intake ports helps? I'm still planning on running a primary and secondary set-up, just mounting the injectors in the one fuel rail.

 

Are you going to run the turbos sequential or parallel?

 

the plan is to run them sequential.

 

What ECU are you going to use?

 

likely the haltech 2500 or Link

 

Yes, primaries work better with injection closer to the intake. Moving to all secondary position is more of a drag racer thing. But eventually companies like ProJay started moving back towards including a primary rail(their intakes usually didn't leave room for primary injectors in the stock location)

 

sounds like sagely advice, so i just ordered the radium primary rail and FPD. I talked to my tuner as well and he's fine with running the 1050s in the primary and secondary positions, so that's the new plan!

 

Agree that running primaries in the stock location will get you the best result.

Not to turn this into a for sale thread, but I have a 2500 that I am possibly looking to sell (I'd like to go with a Nexus R3). It only has a little bit of use and I actually have a brand new universal premium wiring harness and wideband (used, but barely) for it if you were interested...

 

Trying to finishing up the last of the interior installation. Replacing jute, while I fell it's necessary, it a fairly large PITA. This is the last of it.


Also had to replace the pass side rear speaker bracket. I couldn't bring myself to shell out the money for an aftermarket set when the plans are available already, and simple enough to make. You'll notice new webbing on the seat belt as well as the one that came with the car was from a tan interior. I used that service that lists on ebay all the time and was happy enough with it, that I got both sides done


Moving along in the interior I need to mount a DBW throttle pedal. I have a spare RX8 pedal kicking around so why not use that? This is the 2nd revision of the bracket, and is publicly available for free download


It places the pedal very close to the stock pedal location:




RX8 pedal fits very well in the footwell

 

on to more fun things, I'm appreciative of everyone's advice and ended up getting a radium fuel rail and FPD, but first here's the last iteration of what will now be a dust block off plate for the primary injectors. I got new oil injectors as well as I still plan on running the OMP (and premix).


and the shiney new goods


Here's my solution to the rear fitting on the secondary rail. It's a low profile swivel fitting.


It is still very much in the way of the heater core line though.


And since I'm now running primaries on the primary rail, I need something to block the un-used holes in the fuel rail. It was a good excuse to get my cnc lathe back up and running

 

^Lol, I ended up doing the same with my rear speakers, but that was before the aftermarket brackets became available from JP3 Motorsports. Same deal when I had to restore my A/C - I wish JP3 had their A/C kits available back then, would have been worth the cost cause that job was a PITA!


^That is sweet! My FD is running a DBW setup with the RX8 pedal that the PO installed with a bracket he fabricated. It's functional, but I'm not too crazy about the pedal position - I've gotten used to it, but it puts the pedal out a bit too high relative to the others. Getting a more OEM-like pedal placement has been on my to-do list, so I'm super excited to hear you're going to make your RX8 pedal adapter publicly available! My son does 3D printing as a hobby, so I'll be happy to prototype whatever you come up with

 

I updated the post with the download link for the pedal mount. Enjoy!

 

Thank you!

 

Picking back up, I decided to dust off the old anodizing supplies and give the injector blocks a once over. Powder coat just didn't seem right, and I'm a firm believer that raw aluminum has no place in the engine bay. You can quote me later on that when I still have a raw aluminum intercooler, radiator, and intake tubes...haha

Anyways, I gave it a go and they came out....just ok...They are anodized but not as thick as i was shooting for. Here they are in the bath


Installed and looking ok.


with that sorted and while waiting on fittings for the fuel system, I decided to tackle the oil filter once again. I had the design sorted out with 3d prints so off to the CNC we go.


This adapter pushes the oil filter forward around 3". About the only way to accomplish that was to drill some passage holes thru the adapter and cap them after the fact.


The caps are a press fit, but also welded in place for good measure. One thing I don't want to deal with is a tiny leak thru a porous weld joint. I was going to go back and re-machine the surfaces flat again, but then remembered that I'm lazy and this part points at the firewall, and anyone inspecting my car that thoroughly deserves to see my shameful welds.


As with everything custom like this (or so it seems) there's always a catch. One of the original mounting studs for the oil pedestal runs right thru one of the passageways in the adapter. So the easiest solution I could think of was to drill and tap a new hole in a place that it wasn't in the way. I'm fairly sheepish about drilling holes in my engine block, especially since it's all together and installed in the car now, so I didn't trust my hand to drill it where it needed to be, so I 3d printed a little drill guide which worked perfectly.


Installing the adapter isn't the most fun thing, but it only needs to happen a handful of times, but it fits!


And so does the oil filter now! I'll need to move the clutch line around a little, but that's super easy.

 

My next task is to mount all the major components in the engine bay, so I'm starting with the AC and PS pumps. I was hopfull that I could use the stock mount but the 20B (and the FD as it turn out) both run those off the second pulley out, and I'm looking to have a single belt. so custom mounts are in the cards and I'm going back to my default of 3D printing parts to test fit everything.


First thing I noticed is that I'm going to need at least 1 idler pulley, but more than likely 2. the shot between the main pulley and the AC goes right thru the oil fitting in the front cover. Not ideal...I'm also not sure I like the idea of having a very long stretch kind of in the open that would happen between the alt and PS pump. No worries, just means I need a few more parts. to be continued....

 

Friday update...
Got some good work finished on the fuel system. Made up a quick little mock mount for the FPR, and (of course) 3d printed it for fitment.


First attempt didn't have any clearance for a brake line, so a second version was made


That one fits great. I'll need to test fit the hood, but I think there's clearance. You can also see the pesky clutch line that's still dangling around the oil filter.


so lets fix that. I hacked up the original mounting bracket and straightened the stock hardline, and now it's nice and flush to the firewall.


Bracket powder coated and some AN lines started for the fuel system. And yes, there is plenty of room to get the oil filter out.

 

While working on the fuel system I bumped one of the oil meter lines wrong. I was hopeful these would survive as they are actually quite flexible still, but are a bit brittle right next to the fittings.


In case no one has seen custom lines made i'll give a quick overview of how I do it, but there's a few good threads on the topic already. I reuse the metal fittings, which means you have to get the old clamps off. I've found the easiest wway to remove them is to grind the crimp thru until you see a seam.


After grinding both sides, the clamp falls off.


Removing the old plastic is fairly easy, I use some snips and just clip it off


I've got a lack of build pictures, but I install the injector fitting into the new line first, simply heating up the line a bit with a small butane torch and pressing the fitting in. I then install that into the engine and route the lines as I want them. Any bends i use the torch to heat up the tube and hold it in place while it cools. Cut to length and install the pump fitting.

 

Next up, I couldn't bring myself to spend $3k on a the greddy vmount kit when I know I'll need to hack it up anyways, so i did the 3rd best thing and bought one of the rotary works vmount kit. I know, I know it's far inferior to the greddy components but my power goals are fairly meager and the reality is i'll never go racing it's going to be a road car that gets driven on nice days. So with that said....


It's fairly close to the belt drive, but it fits well. This 100% would not have fit if I hadn't moved the engine back 3".


Installation was actually fairly easy. I know a lot of people have said they had to trim brackets and enlarge holes to get everything to fit, but this one pretty much just bolted in place. My only real complaint with the kit is that there are sharp corners on everything which makes working on it a pit painful if you slip. I did make a few modifications to suit my personal taste. the cross bar that holds the top of the radiator and the backside of the intercooler only had 2 holes to mount to the cross member mounts on the chassis. The bar extended far enough so you could have all 4, so I opted to add the other 2, which turned out to aid me later on. In case no one has done something like this, the easy way to locate where holes need to be are transfer set screws. They make them in every thread size, and they are just set screws with a center punch on side. You lay your material over top of them where you want it, and smack the material with a hammer and it transfers the hole locations. Super easy....unless you want to do this right now and you don't have the correct kit on hand....then you make your own. You could do the same with a power drill and a dremal, but I chucked up some screws in the lathe made made my own


This helped as the other modification I made to the kit was to shift the radiator to the passinger side to allow room for the EWP on the drivers side. In this picture the radiator is shifter over already. Normally it would mount to the right most screw shown.


This gives me ample room for the EWP and lines....or so I hope....

 

This weeks progress. I have the fuel system almost complete. The last line i needed to make was this hardline that connects the 2 fuel rails. I'm quite embarrassed how many times I had to remake this, but getting the perfect length after flaring both ends was no easy task. But it's done, and hopefully will have no leaks.


The last thing for the fuel system is to get the new pump installed. Should be doing that this weekend and that will be the the first "system" completed for the swap. Kind of exciting!

Next up I worked on something I just felt like working on, the intercooler tubing. The stock turbo exit piping was too tall to fit under the strut bar, so I started chopping that down. Probably shouldn't have powder coated that part yet....


I'm a big fan of using these 3d printed lock together tubes to mock up the tubing. Ended up cutting the stock casting down quite a bit.


I ended up designing my own cutting jig as well to help get the correct angles on the cuts. I'll make this publicly available soon.


But the results are pretty good. I also chopped off the beads on the intercooler and welded on these couplers. Much cleaner look than silicone couplers.




The other side won't be quite so easy. The GM TB i have is a 4" inlet so I'll need to neck down to 3" at some point. My current plan is to build an elbow that reduces the diameter and makes a clean 90* bend all in one. How will I do that? I have no idea, but here's the goal:

 

Hard line fuel plumbing can be a PITA, nice job!

Maybe you can 3D print a suitable part there in a high temp plastic or aluminum? Otherwise, the less sexy easy button solution would be a reducing silicone elbow, similar to this: https://www.siliconeintakes.com/bend...cer-p-957.html

 

I was checking out your radiator pics and noticed that you are not using any isolators at the mounting points. You may want to consider adding some.

 

I know this will be a shock....but the RW kit doesn't come with any type of isolators. That said, I've been thinking about that as well and likely will be putting the radiator and intercooler on rubber mounts. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

thanks, it was a learning experience for sure.

I thought about just taking the easy route and using one of those silicone couplers, but I really hate the way they look. I'll probably cheap out on the intake pipes and use them, but also enjoy the challenge that making weird things like that brings. TBD on what that will look like, but I'll be sure to share the failures and successes along the way.

 

Great update!!
Always look forward to when you post... they are nice and detailed with lots of pics!

My RW setup is solid mounted like yours and I've had no issues in 6 years but Yes rubber isolators are a good idea.

Steve