So the FD water pump housing mates to the front plate without any interference? I may just end up changing over from the TII housing on my 13B-RE to the FD if so.

 

That engine bay IS a work of art. I want one. Excellent job.

 

nice build up!! just curious what sway bar mounts are they?

 

We will be installing a wire mesh screen filter, to stop bugs, rocks, birds, from being sucked in. The engine sits right were it is supposed to, the trans has not been moved.

Yes, it bolts right on. We made the custom thermostat however.

Rick, we can get started on yours anytime

We used the FEED mounts, and made custom spacers

 

I would just like to thank Chris and Elaine for letting me be their when they started the engine for the first time on Wednesdays. I have been watching this build sense the day it started and to be there when it started was just awesome. Chris was very confident that it would start first try, but I had some worries that something little thing would go wrong. Boy was I wrong first try it just roared to life and just after a few minutes of tuning it was purring like a kitten. I have a video of the whole thing I am sending to Elaine to post.
I’ve said it before and I will say it again, Chris does great work. His attention to detail and never cutting corner shows in all his work and this build is above and beyond his already high quality. A couple of people already posted that is looks factory and is it does. Every part, wire, nut and bolt look like it’s supposed to be there. Hats off too a great build.
I was lucky to be the first to get a ride in the car and can’t wait to get a ride after its tuned.
Joe




P.S. Ryan(theRJpackage), HAHA I got a ride in it before you did!!! Hope you like the pic

 

at 15 lbs this should probably do near to 550 at the wheels depending on the dyno. Rotorsports Racing in NC had a 3 rotor that did a little over 500 at 13 lbs I think. Or maybe it was 11.

Also, what is the advantage of the D series 20B's ? Stronger casting, better eshaft? Are they later production or something?

 

Arghx- there is a lot more to making power then just having a 3 rotor. Tuning makes a huge difference obviously, but turbo sizing, manifold design, IC, ignition, everything plays a role. So comparing what this one will put down with a 20B that is in NC is not very realistic.

D series is the last run, there are rumors of an E series but I don't know if anyone has actually seen one. They started with no letter, just numbers XXX, then there was A.B.C, and DXXX. The D series engine incorporated all the lated updates from Mazda.

^I see Gordon beat me to it

There are two videos on the bottom of my very first post of the car running. We will post up the first turn of the ignition video when Joe sends it to us.

 

Chris, very impressive. I've always known you guys do great work, one thing that stands out is the *cleanliness* of the build.

I do see one major problem in your future though....... TRACTION

Please consider bringing the car out to the Carlisi event next August, we'd love to have ya

 

The video is the mail to Elaine already, I could not Email it because of the size. I also think Elaine may want to do a little editing to remove all the “HOLY S**T, OOH F***K” and thing like that and make it PG rated. In all the excitement we forgot to watch the language, but came you blame us.

 

are you using the factory 20B crank angle sensor?

also, which housings? all of them, or just the rotor housings?

 

Yes

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pXfHLUlZf4

is all I have to say.

 

Rich,
I have always had a bit of a traction issue as it was, but I do agree that the tire budget will be multiplied by a significant factor. We will consider driving out for next years event, we are just always so busy at the shop, it is hard to get away

LOL

 

Very clean build, great job!

Dan

 

Now that is the definition of sexy right there. Phenomenal job!

 

It's worth saying again just how great of a job Chris and Elaine do......clearly seen thru this build. I have been checking their site almost thru the entire build. They have a realy nice log of it all.

The end result looks awesome. Cant wait to see some dyno numbers.

 

How much would it cost if someone if they paid you to do this to their car?

 

I've never heard of the RS. What makes it different from the R?

 

We will gladly discuss pricing over the phone or email, but this is a forum technical section and I gon't want to turn it into a sales thread. There are far too many options that effect price. One being the current mods on the car and if they can still be used in the conversion.


The GT4294R (R) has a 94mm compressor wheel rated at 850hp , the GT4102R (RS) has a 102mm wheel and is rated at 1000hp

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=GLF

 

Oops, that should have been GT4202R

 

Beautiful work. Not that I wouldn't want to own one, but I think that being a part of a project like this, and having a hand in on the build would be awesome as well. Wish I lived close enough to a shop to have that chance.

 

Amazing - that's one clean install!

 

I drooled copious amounts of saliva all over my keyboard.

Very clean. Excellent work.




Is this a shop car or a customer car?

 

This is one of our shop cars.

 

I wonder when you get say 14-16 PSi?

thewird