Well my road tuning has taken a break for awhile because I got arrested for doing 101mph on the 303 highway here in AZ. I believe the speed limit is 65mph but he wrote it as 101 in a 45...reckless driving...and I could be without a license for awhile. Real bummer because I wasn't being reckless, no traffic, open 4 lane divided highway (2 each direction) in a rural area. I accelerated hit the rpm where I wanted to stop and decellerated...cop ended up putting me in jail and there I sat for 18 hours because I couldn't get in contact with anyone (only phone call they allowed me was a collect call that couldn't go to cell phones). Don't get arrested in AZ, or anywhere for that matter. This may be the end of the relationship between me and this car because I just dont have very good luck. IT is nearly running at 100%. Richard from Aquamist wrote to inform me that the fuel injector summer we have been waiting for has been finished and once he gets that to me I will be on the dyno to fine tune the boost maps and turn up the wick.

After the car is fully tuned and I am confident in it, I will most likely be putting it up for sale. So stay tuned on that front. I will update this thread with dyno results when they come.

Anyway I have a log of the run I was making when I got arrested. Under full throttle, no intercooler and my water injection I was seeing ridiculously low temperatures under boost. The run in which I get arrested IAT drops 14 degrees C when the W/I engages about 40 degrees C at 1bar (ambient temp was right around 34C this is with 60/40 water/meth with about 15% ratio of injectant to fuel with my jet sizes).

I dont know how to post the logs? Anyone want to help me out with that?

 

Oh and we put a make shift plate to duct the top of the radiator and my coolant temp never gets above 85C now...usually below that. Where as before I was running about 87C coolant temps so the one piece of ducting made a big difference.

 

Geez dude that sucks!! glad to hear the car is at least still working properly.

 

damn cosmo that sucks, hopefully you can prove that you where really in a 65MPH zone, that could have a significant impact on the cost of the ticket. At least you wheren't in CALI, in addition to the reckless driving the cop might well have poped the hood to take pictures, then you would have had to put everything back to stock, and removing a cateletic converter can be like a 2000 dollar fine.

 

my sincere condolences re your ticket and i hope you reconsider re your car...

i am PMing you re getting the logs up on this thread.

howard

 

Man that SUCKS!

Best of luck to you.

 

i am running pre-turbo water injection... our dyno won't be installed for another couple of weeks so data will be held off until then, but i will say this.. i am more than happy i removed my 4" thick fmic and went back to a stock TII tmic but the goal is to run no i/c at all

setup:

bridgeported TII block
9.7:1 rotors
haltech e6k
550/1600 combo
MP T70 1.00 q-trim 3.5" outlet
4" dp and exhaust
PRE-TURBO WI only. making use of a special nozzle from the aussies, no pump

all my buddies run water/meth with amaaaazing success! i will see how pure water does and probably even try out meth as well just to see what is best in my situation.

this thread is fuggin fantastic!

 

Do you pump with compressed air from the turbo outlet? If not, how?

 

correct, the resevior that holds the water gets pressurized and my solenoid doesn't allow the water to start injecting until 7psi or so depending on where i set it.

 

I like the simplicity.

Flow rate should increase with the square root of PSI. Is that enough for higher boost/heat levels? I suppose you could stage a second nozzle...

 

Hey Brian, sucks about the jail time. They are dicks out here about this kinda thing. And I dont know why. They all did it down central ave back in the 70's. hipocrits...

Well I hope you dont sell your car bro.

To post the logs, you have two options.
You can take a screen shot of your logs after you open them on your computer, then save that screen shot as a jpg and post.

or you can zip the log, and attach that.

 

simplicity is the main reason i am running it this way. i know most of you hate him but i got the nozzle setup from Peter (rice racing). my current one is set for high boost on my T70, should be good for high 500's. time will tell

after this i do plan to try a water/meth kit possibly as well and see what works better in my situation... gotta put the dyno to use right? haha

 

Just a FYI, since I started this thread............. I've decided to run E85 with my AI injection. Why ? Because I want to break ****.

 

You sir are a picture *****. Soon as Cozmo gets his " summer" we'll be continuing on with his car...

 

Hello Brain,

I wonder if you have receieve the summer yet? Sent it about 2 weeks ago.

 

13B-RX3 is my pimp, i learned the game from him

 

I got it Richard. It will probably be in the car after this weekend.

 

Hey man, how is everything working out for you?

I miss your updates on this subject

 

Things took a dramatic turn for the worst there about a month back. I got arrested for that stupid little acceleration run the first week of October. Then got laid off of my job because the Mortgage Bank I work for went **** up. So things were on hold for awhile.

I got another job that I started last week and didn't have to take a pay cut so that is good. Still no development on the, what I will call, speeding ticket.

I should install the summer tomorrow and then I can update more regularly. I have been driving around as is for almost 3 months without an intercooler and it has been perfectly reliable. With ambient temps now finally in the 80s (farenheit) and my radiator ducting finished (I'll post an updated engine bay shot tomorrow )I see a max of 85C coolant temps, and usually around 83C in the morning. My intake temp cruising down the freeway is about 38C in the morning and 44C in the afternoon. In boost it will raise to 50C without the water/meth.

Intake temps are well under control even without the water alcohol with my setup. I would probably venture so far as to say you probably dont even need the water alcohol below 12psi. You could run stockish boost levels with a WAY WAY cooler engine, totally reliable. My intake temps never heat soak and dont go up while sitting in traffic either(I commute daily 25 miles each way in heavy traffic, the 7 is my daily driver).

I may have to sell the car...but before I do I will have logs from the dyno, and from a few 20 minute sessions on the road course to prove that this really works. Stay tuned for those, but be patient. I think I am getting on the dyno in the next 2 weeks and will hit up the track day in the first week of January.

 

I would like to know why this is.



The specific heat and heat vaporization of water is higher than methanol.

Specific Heat:

water is 4.18J/gram/degree C
methanol is only 2.92J
gasoline 2.22J
ethanol 2.44J


Heat vaporization:

water 40.65J/mole
ethanol 38.6J
methanol 37.4J


Water can remove more energy in the form of heat that methanol. Does methanol actually cool better. What am I missing?

Going by the put your hand in methanol then in the air, then doing the same with water. Methanol feels very cold on your hands (same with gasoline). This makes me think to when you put your hands in a basic/alkaline chemical like washing powder, your hands feel a warm/burning.

Is the methanol doing the opposite?

 

Water doesn't do its vaporization thing well until 212ºF.

The alcohols are evaporating at a lower temperature where your hand can be the sensor and it feels like they are doing more work. They are until the higher temps are encountered.

The question is where would each be best used?

Barry

 

Alcohol pre compressor baby and water pre TB. JK

Actually they say for maximum horsepower the ideal ratio is 50/50 but of course I think thats been covered in one of these threads before. And I also read it(In a book).

 

Methanol boiling point is 64.7degrees C
water 100 degrees C

I can see between 65 - 99 degrees C methanol could be cooling better job due to the fact that energy is being used to convert liquid into vapor.

So temperatures below 64 degrees C water should still be doing a better job?

The only way I can see methanol cooling better is when its used in large volumes; as fuel. But thats not we are talking about here. If you are talking about using water injection to replace your intercooler then straight water would have to do a better job.

 

Man, what a nightmare; glad everything is working out for you. I hope you (somehow) get that ticket off your record (or reduced to something not serious); and that you keep your car!

Best of luck!

 

Aleks, you are right that water is better. The Latent Heat of Vaporization for ethanol is 855 J/g, for methanol; nine hundred something J/g (as best as I remember), but water absorbs 2272 J/g, almost 2½ times as much. The catch is that it has to hit 100Cº to collect the prize.
Barry