James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

Hi Gang,

I'm thinking of picking up this AEM water injection kit (link) and this filter ( ) to go with it.

I'm looking for extra insurance (not to tune to the water) when running 12-13lbs on stock twins and then eventually about 16 on BNRs. I doubt that I'll ever go past the BNRs. Shoot, it'll be a while before I go past the stock twins.

After some looking around, the above kit seems to be the best bang for my buck. It's a step above a cheap on/off boost switch equipped model but doesn't have all of the fancy software gauges, logging and other things that I just don't think that I'll make good use of ... just an injection curve that's based on boost pressure.

Is there anything else that I should consider? Functionality, best place to purchase, use the search function or ???

thanks all,

James

Supernaut

iTrader: (83)

I think the premium that aquamist has is worth it. I always recommend going with an HFS + rx7 summer. Injecting meth based on injection duty rocks and the flow gauge is awesome. My intake charge is in the mid to high teens on incredibly hot days when I boost and this is with my constantly heat soaking tiny greddy/trust SMIC in slow to moderate traffic. I just need a small patch of road to put enough load to set off the water injection without boosting and my temps are back down to the 10s. It's probably the only mod I've done that makes me feel safe driving my car in any situation.

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

Beautiful cal Supernaut.

I had an Aquamist 1s in my fist FD ... good stuff.

The system that you're using is a bit rich for my budget at $700ish.

Injector duty is a great feature. I could see this being a great supplemental fuel system. Never say never, I may just have the need for that one day.

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

I have the kit, I would buy something different. I have had problems with the progressive controller, its also hard to read and set the start boost and full boost settings. The bad controller led to damage to my turbo compressor wheel, it was setup pre turbo and spraying for a second or two every time the key is turned on or off, so I hooked up a boost activated switch to bandaid that problem. And the built in check valve had a oring problem and that caused water to be sucked into the engine under vacuum and the ic accumulated a spuddle of water which was then forced into the engine and then my engine was down on power and compression a little. But the kit did allow me to achieve good numbers for a little while on pump gas.

DriftDreamzSS

iTrader: (4)

I have the 30-3002 kit with no tank and its worked well for me. I use the medium nozzle (315cc I think) with water only on a 35r at around 16psi. I use the stock front washer tank and one track session goes thru about 1/2 the tank. The issues tom94RX-7 mentions isnt good tho, I will be checking my kit to ensure everything is well.

Mitchocalypse

iTrader: (2)

If you're just using it for added security then I think its a good kit. That was my main purpose when i bought the aem one. However, if you decide to change that in the future (which I suspect you will) you will probably need a different kit. I suggest just getting an aquamist right from the get go for just a few hundred bucks more.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i've installed a number of the AEM progressive kits and haven't heard any issues with them, i also used to recommend the Devil's own as an alternative but after one controller blew up when first powering up the pump i was a little disappointed(this was after they changed the pump controller and run no fuses now).

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

Allrotor93 has an Aquamist DDS3 with an FIA2 kit available for sale right now. It's a slightly used unit but comes with new hoses and nozzles. Sized for a 20B so it would work for you.

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

Good feedback.

Not 100% what I wanted to hear tom94RX-7, but I'm glad that you said it. How long did you have the kit when you noticed the trouble?

DriftDreamzSS, let us know what you find and drop me a line if the FD makes it down near Chatsworth.

Thanks Karack ... considering the amount of work that you've done and that you have to deal with problems later your input means a lot.

Damn it Mitchocalypse and David ... I'm PMing Allrotor93 now ... you really want me to buy the Aquamist, don't you. :-)

Jason

iTrader: (5)

James, we have installed many of the AEM kits and no issues with them. For the money they work well. You might consider getting the one without the tank and using the window washer tank in the car. Makes it a lot easier than finding a spot for the AEM tank.

Jason

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

Just my luck then haha. Very little use before I had problems with the controller. When I told the aem techs about it they said they never heard of that problem.

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

more to think about ...
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/water-me...n-systems.html

chiefboon

Can you provide more information / direct me to a guide to using the AEM kit with the window washer tank? Love the idea of OEM look.

Supernaut

iTrader: (83)

Also, not the rear tank unless it's Euro spec. I used to use the rear tank for my kit. I'd run out of juice very quickly.

Jason

iTrader: (5)

We mount the pump at the bottom of the tank, on the frame of the car. As I recall there is already a nipple on the bottom of the tank that you can run to the pump. Then go from the pump up to the elbow or intercooler pipe.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

typically i find an old mitsubishi with a slanted washer reservoir in the wreckers that fits the storage bins without much modification. i like the stock washer reservoir idea but it sits quite low in the car and to me it seems it has to be topped off early to prevent pump starvation.

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

Hi team Rx7,

I surprised myself and picked up a used Aquamist DDS3 with an FIA2 kit today. It might have come from someone who posted on this thread.

Here's what changed my mind:

1) The PWM vs variable pump atomisation. Check the link that I posted earlier in this thread.

2) Basing the flow rate on the maps that I set in my PFC rather than boost. Admittedly the install will be a little more complex but this should produce predictable results very effortlessly. If I change my PFC map, the Aquamist will follow suit.

3) A very good deal both in $$$ and an customer service.

I think that you may have just called it Mitchocalypse. I'll probably feel comfortable enough to tune to it a bit given the feature set (failsafe) of the Aquamist. Well, that'll happen a bit later but it's a great option.

I'll post back some general impressions once I've installed and used the kit for a bit.

peace,

James



Here's a couple of videos that sold me on the improvment that PWM gives over motor speed control:

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

Hi all,

Thought that I would share my experience installing a used Aquamist HFS5.

First, thanks to David Hayes. My wholehearted recommendation to him as a seller.

Here’s what I purchased in a picture. Here’s the manual for those interested in the details.

If you’ve read this thread all the way through, you know that I started out with an AEM kit in mind. I believe that this kit would have required less that 50% of the effort that that Aquamist kit did. This is true mainly because the AEM kit is less complex. It's controlled only by boost, doesn’t display flow or have any safety (boost cut) features. There’s just a lot less to hook up.

Total install time was about 16 hours, not including a lot of online reading, shopping for parts, reading the factory wiring diagram and looking the car over to help decide where it was all going to be installed. Dale Clark’s water / meth thread was a huge help with both fitment as well as planning for a clean, quality install.

More soon … I’m off to spend some time with my other half.

James

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

Glad to have helped James. Your knowledge and patience is what won the day though

The kit I sent to James was not complete and we worked together to make it right. Happy it is all working out. James is a great guy and a knowledgable rotary head.

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

Hi all,

Thanks David!

A few observations:

1) My car, not unlike most FDs with the typical bolt on mods, occasionally pops when getting on and off of the gas. You know the usual mild FD backfires that are the norm after a downpipe and cat back. Anyway, the water injection seems to eliminate 80% of these. Quite a nice side effect.

2) The car's wideband is logging AFR's that are in the neighborhood of 1 AFR richer (under full boost) than before the H2O injection. I'm only running distilled water at this point so it's not extra fuel from the injection system. The intake temps aren't any different that several cold morning runs that I've done recently. I need to look my logs over and think about it. At first glance, the PFC seems to have pushed the duty cycle from 80% to 85% so there's definitely extra fuel.

3) It's obvious to the old time AI / WI fans but the intake temps drop fairly quickly to 45C during extended boost runs. Even a short run will bring it from 60C to 50. Nice, just the like the Aquamist 1S system that I used to have. Nice, I seem to have the equivalent of an FMIC.

OK ... more about the install in a bit.

James

Shaman

For those interested, AEM sells a failsafe kit, but good on you for buying the HFS-5. You can find the HFS-3s for $400 up and the HFS-6s for $500 up used.

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

That is interesting as you are only injecting water. Is the PFC somehow compensating for the H2O?

My AFRs actually went in the opposite direction with a 50/50 mix. After the install, AFRs went leaner according to the wideband and were up about 1 point into the low 12s on WOT. This really freaked me out and I never got a clear answer on why this happened. The general consensus was the wideband was calibrated to gas and the meth mix registered differently but I am not sure about this.

We retuned the car and now see 11.2 at WOT with the meth mix.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

James,

assuming the IAT sensor is downstream from your AI injection point my guess is the IAT correction table is reading colder temps and enrichening your mixture...

howard

Shaman

David figure out if your wideband reports a lamba corrected to 14.7, or if it actually reports the A/F, or just switch it to lambda because it's the easiest way to tune for two fluids with different stoichs

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

Well, it's the PLX wideband:

Wideband AFR, Air/Fuel Ratio, UEGO, Universal Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor, Wideband Oxygen Sensor Control Kit - PLX Devices Inc - USA

Does both AFR and lamba but outside of that, I'm pretty clueless with the "stoichs" issue.