I have downloaded the both S6 basemaps from the Adaptronic Forum and I actually got the car fired up and running with the stock basemap. I want to rewire the coils my AEM coils for direct fire and was wondering how to do that. I know I can use pin 1U I think and that it normally goes to the diagnostic connector.

I will track down the wiring diagrams to see which wire to depin from the diagnostic connecter and wire it to the leading coil on the rear rotor. If anyone knows this let me know, as I'm sure it will be greatly helpful. When I find out I will post again.

Jimmy

 

First question are you running the stock twin turbos...or single turbo/non-sequential twins?

 

I'm running single turbo. I have been super busy at work but I will find the right diagram. From what I've been told the wire that I need to tap is in the from harness and goes to the ECU via that harness, not the engine harness. Apparently, the ECU pin 1I goes to the diagnostic port under the hood by the left strut tower. If you are running single turbo that pin will be used to fire the rear leading coil. I just have to find out which wire that is and either depin it and wire it a couple a feet over to where my coil wiring is, which is where the stock igniter was. Better yet, I want to trace that wire back because it actuall runs right along the same harness and I might be able to unwrap the harness and do the rewire under the left fender where the splash shield is. It sounds easy, I just got to track down that wire.

 

Hi all, yes it is pin 1I. It should be a light green / yellow wire on the diagnostic connector.

To change it to direct fire, use the trick in the video: Setting up the FFE crank trigger on the RX7 FD - YouTube to gain access to the trigger settings, and change the ignition output mode to "Direct fire 2 rotor".

The software will change aux 1 automatically. Later versions of the software don't let you change Aux 1 after doing this.

Make sure you check with a timing light or some other magic that both leading plugs are firing after making the change.

Cheers!
Andy

 

In an effort to make this as simple as possible here is what your Direct Fire( 4 individual coil) wiring should look like for both the FD PNP unit, and the E420D basic, or E440D Select( both universal models have the same pins for this)




To make it more clear;

Rx-7 PnP Mercury Coils

1I = Leading 2 ( rear rotor)
1H = leading 1( front rotor)
1J = Trailing 2 ( rear rotor)
1G = Trailing 1( front rotor )



420/440 Mercury Coils

1T = Leading 2 ( rear rotor)
1G = leading 1( front rotor)
1F = Trailing 2 ( rear rotor)
1H = Trailing 1( front rotor )

 

Any tips on making an adapter harness to use aem coils and a series 5 PnP adaptronic with stock engine and body harness? I realize that part is the same as the fd but don't want to hack up another body harness

 

Edited.

 

Just to add to Elliot's post, here are the pinouts for the series 4 and series 5 as well:

Series 4 (3 big chunky plugs):

Leading 1 - 1V, green / yellow (ignition leading from factory)
Trailing 1 - 1X, blue / yellow (ignition trailing from factory)
Leading 2 - 2O, blue /red (switching solenoid valve output from factory, we don't drive that)
Trailing 2 - 1U, brown / yellow (ignition trailing oil select from factory)

Series 5 (3 smaller plugs, same size as the series 6 plugs but only has 3 of the 4):

Leading 1 - 1H, light green (ignition leading from factory)
Trailing 1 - 1G, brown (ignition trailing from factory)
Leading 2 - 1I, orange (test conenctor from factory)
Trailing 2 - 1J, brown / yellow (ignition trailing coil select from factory)

Thanks!
Andy

 

Well finally I decided to move from my MSD wasted spark setup to the Direct fire AEM coils.

 

I will be doing the same. I just bought a pnp select unit and have AEM coils as well. This thread is going to help with direct fire setup.

 

Just did my plug and play setup with a Harness front Chris Ludwig, I had to de pin 4 connector pins from the stock igniter connector to feed the new harness.

The 4 wires are.
Black/White = 12V to feed new harness relay.
Light Green = Leading 1-2
Brown no stripe = Trailing 1
Brown/ Black = Trailing 2

 

So it just sink to me that this is not the way to do it, thank god I have the car down because I'm working on the intercooler.

The way i have above is still wasted spark, because I'm still splitting the L1-L2, and I recalled Andy saying that I needed to use a wire from the diagnostic port to fire the other coil on direct fire mode. Time to make changes on the wiring.

By the way, I was looking at the SakeBomb video, and that's where it sink that the way they do it it's still wasted spark.

 

We have a direct fire harness. It runs all the way to the ECU though and not to the stock ignitor connector. Surprised that other shop hasn't also copied that idea and tried to pawn it off and their own.

FWIW, you'd have to extensively modify the wastespark harness to make it work in direct-fire. Would be cleaner and easier to start over.

 

Looks like I'll be hacking up my harness to bypass the stock igniter. Blackmamba - are you using the ludwig harness? I'm kind of interested in it.

Ludwig, what are the benefits of your harness? I'm pretty good at electricals/rewiring/reading diagrams but I am also a lazy ***!

 

Yes I'm using the Ludwig harness, but by mistake I followed the Sakebomb video for their harness, but I realized that's still on wasted spark setup, I doesn't make sense why spend $850.00 on a set of smart coils to still end up with wasted spark. I didn't pay that much but still.

I will be removing the 12v wire from the 4 pin connector and will connect the 1I pin to it to use it for the Leading 2 as per Adaptronic instruction.

I got to say I'm very impressed with the quality of Ludwig harness, very nice. I picked up the kit from All Rotor for half the price and he told me that the harness was made by Ludwig.

 

I have this same harness for my AEM coils as well. I confused the Ludwig harness for the raywire harness (I think that is what they called them. At least I know how to wire these for direct fire. Just have to make sure I bypass the factory igniter.

 

Our SakeBomb Garage Mil-spec plug-and-play harness is actually set up for running either direct fire OR waste spark without running any additional wires and utilizing only the stock wiring already in the engine bay.

Since a large majority of customers are running waste spark, the default configuration (unless otherwise requested) has a PURPLE jumper to fire the two leading coils in waste spark using the single signal wire from the ECU in the stock harness.

Converting to direct fire is as simple as snipping the PURPLE jumper on the coil harness side, and extending the included BLUE wire one the OEM side of the connector to the diagnostics port wire, as stated above. We've gone through every iteration and this is the cleanest possible way to add direct fire ignition to the FD!

 

I'm a little confused. Can I run the stock coils in direct fire mode? (PnP FD) I don't see the option in the engine select dropdown under triggering.

I do have a FFE trigger wheel and am planning to upgrade to the AEM coils, I even have the harness on order from Ludwig but my bank account is smokin' right now. Thanks

 

You cannot physically run the OEM coils in direct fire. You have 3 coils, and the leading is a dual post.

Per the IGN-1A( AEM smartcoil) manufacturer's guidelines you should not run the coils in wasted spark on a rotary, unless you want your redline to be low. I do however know people who have ignored this without an issue( yet!).

 

Ok, so I'll definitely run it in Wasted spark. what then would I do for the ffe settings?

 

Enter these trigger settings in the triggering tab, then goto trigger settings.

You will need to hit choose engine, mazda, then 13BREW S6/7/8 standard ignition, 3 coils, seq injection.

Then hit OK, then go back to choose engine, and select custom. Then enter the pictured settings for the 36-1 MAG trigger FFE wheel...

 

Thanks, I will do that. I noticed on the adaptronic forum it says the ffe trigger wheel requires direct fire ignition. I just want to make sure I am ok. Thanks in advance.
Installation Guide: RX7 S6 FD Plugin ECU

 

Hi guys,

Just to clarify, the direct fire requirement is because we only have that option available among the built-in trigger FFE settings in WARI (most common).

If you choose the FFE setup, and then change the ignition output mode back to wasted leading 2-rotor, then it will work fine with the factory ignition system.

Thanks.

 

I figured it was fine because Eliot posted values to make it work. It's just nice to be % 100 when lord knows I've dumped so much money into this thing lately.

 

Is direct fire possible if running sequential turbos?