Knotsonice tuning issues - Page 3 - RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum

Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS Plug-in and wire-in stand alone ECU's for RX-7's

Knotsonice tuning issues

Reply

 
 
 
Old 09-22-18, 05:54 PM
  #51  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Bremerton, WA
Posts: 361
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Skeese View Post
I think the key to getting idle that low is really a balance of the mechanical settings of the TB (idle bleed, plate set screw, TPS table choke) and proper use of the ISC valve. Its pretty easy to balance out with a stock or street port, but as port size increases so does sensitivity of that balance. What does the car idle at if you close the bleed screw all the way now?

Skeese
Havn't tried yet. Wife has had me doing other **** right now. Which one are you calling the bleed screw? I'm going to play some today or tomorrow.

Carl
knotsonice is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-18, 10:42 AM
  #52  
Rocket Appliances
iTrader: (11)
 
Skeese's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 738
Thanked 41 Times in 30 Posts
Originally Posted by knotsonice View Post
Havn't tried yet. Wife has had me doing other **** right now. Which one are you calling the bleed screw? I'm going to play some today or tomorrow.

Carl
Yeah man I understand that...

The bleed screw I'm refereing to is the one on the bottom of the TB that is below the primary throttle plate. There's a small inlet hole in the primary tb inlet that allows air to be pulled to the engine side of the TB and that bleed screw position regulates how much. Fully closed all the way clockwise nets no air bypass and lower idle rpm and opening by turning counter clockwise allows more air and higher rpm.

The one on the top is the mechanical stop for the TB plates at whatever 0% throttle is. Anytime you change this you have to recalibrate TPS, but that isnt the case with the bleed screw.

I always tune idle to where I want it to be in open loop idle control and then run closed loop later. That being the case, for your car I would try and lower the idle rpm from 900 to 800 by closing the bleed screw some (assuming it isnt fully closed already, if so theres a fix for that too) and leave the ISC duty as it is. Set the ISC duty bump for the low rpms ( I forget what its called) to bump by 20 at 750 rpms and 50 at 700 rpms to help catch it if it falls off.

With my stock port that idled at 800 rpms, I added fuel in the 500 rpm cells to aid it catching if it fell. Will post a pic of the fuel map to show it when I can.

Skeese
Skeese is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-18, 04:02 PM
  #53  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Bremerton, WA
Posts: 361
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Ya that's what i thought. I know it by a different name. But i just dropped the car at a body shop as one dick head hit me in a parking lot. Lucky it's not bad. But getting her cleaned up. So it'll be 2 weeks or so. I'll mess with the idle after i get her back. But i did have to add more timing to the idle. so sitting at 15 and she doesn't stall out at all now. also idle afr she likes 12.2. so I don't think i'll lean her out any more.

But your right it is easier getting the fuel dialed in in the 500 rpm steps. One thing i have noticed is that she wants a lot more fuel in the 2500-3500 rpm range. around -16. my -12 table seems to be almost dead on. just seems weird to me to see the -16 cell wants more fuel than the -12 cell.

Last edited by knotsonice; 10-11-18 at 04:05 PM.
knotsonice is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-18, 01:45 AM
  #54  
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
 
sonicgroove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: California
Posts: 201
Thanked 16 Times in 12 Posts
Originally Posted by knotsonice View Post
Ya that's what i thought. I know it by a different name. But i just dropped the car at a body shop as one dick head hit me in a parking lot. Lucky it's not bad. But getting her cleaned up. So it'll be 2 weeks or so. I'll mess with the idle after i get her back. But i did have to add more timing to the idle. so sitting at 15 and she doesn't stall out at all now. also idle afr she likes 12.2. so I don't think i'll lean her out any more.

But your right it is easier getting the fuel dialed in in the 500 rpm steps. One thing i have noticed is that she wants a lot more fuel in the 2500-3500 rpm range. around -16. my -12 table seems to be almost dead on. just seems weird to me to see the -16 cell wants more fuel than the -12 cell.
My engine is also street ported but she brapps very well at 800 rpm with 0 base timing which equates to -5 to 0 timing at idle. I believe factory timing is -5. For spark split I have it at 20 for 0% and 25% tps at 1000rpm and the rest is at 10. If you change the spark split it does influence idle a bit. I believe 15 is stock but I can recall reading that 20 helped a few people with ported engines idle better. I opted to give it a try and found it helped even if it was just a small amount. I highly recommend doing most of the steps I mentioned in my previous post to get your idle on lock. I know most cars are different but I think your car will be better off with a rich idle in the 12s. If you keep it at 13 you will need more timing and/or a higher RPM to keep the engine from stalling when load is applied at idle, this includes clutch applied load during first gear take off. You can add timing in the lower RPM range to help support the engine from dying but at target idle I think its best to stay as close to factory as possible. Key points I strongly believe to setup idle appropriately are: lock idle timing to -5/15 via ecu or jumper, double check timing marks, manually adjust TB to target idle RPM, tune in open loop with ISC off idle fuel map to a target afr of 12-12.5, readjust TB back to target idle RPM manually if fuel map tuning resulted in a rise/drop in RPM, turn ISC back on, and then work on transient throttle. You posted in my megalogviewer thread, refer back to that to help fill in your predicted map and begin tuning your transient throttle. I made a few more tweaks afterwards to get it just right but feel free to PM me if you have any questions. That feeling I got when I finally got my idle and transient throttles solid was just exhilarating with a complete sense of accomplishment. If I can, I would like to share with you that sense of satisfaction.

-groovin
sonicgroove is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-18, 09:43 AM
  #55  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Bremerton, WA
Posts: 361
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by sonicgroove View Post
My engine is also street ported but she brapps very well at 800 rpm with 0 base timing which equates to -5 to 0 timing at idle. I believe factory timing is -5. For spark split I have it at 20 for 0% and 25% tps at 1000rpm and the rest is at 10. If you change the spark split it does influence idle a bit. I believe 15 is stock but I can recall reading that 20 helped a few people with ported engines idle better. I opted to give it a try and found it helped even if it was just a small amount. I highly recommend doing most of the steps I mentioned in my previous post to get your idle on lock. I know most cars are different but I think your car will be better off with a rich idle in the 12s. If you keep it at 13 you will need more timing and/or a higher RPM to keep the engine from stalling when load is applied at idle, this includes clutch applied load during first gear take off. You can add timing in the lower RPM range to help support the engine from dying but at target idle I think its best to stay as close to factory as possible. Key points I strongly believe to setup idle appropriately are: lock idle timing to -5/15 via ecu or jumper, double check timing marks, manually adjust TB to target idle RPM, tune in open loop with ISC off idle fuel map to a target afr of 12-12.5, readjust TB back to target idle RPM manually if fuel map tuning resulted in a rise/drop in RPM, turn ISC back on, and then work on transient throttle. You posted in my megalogviewer thread, refer back to that to help fill in your predicted map and begin tuning your transient throttle. I made a few more tweaks afterwards to get it just right but feel free to PM me if you have any questions. That feeling I got when I finally got my idle and transient throttles solid was just exhilarating with a complete sense of accomplishment. If I can, I would like to share with you that sense of satisfaction.

-groovin
Thanks ya i'm going to go threw those steps just waiting on getting the car back. Hopefully sometime next week.
knotsonice is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-18, 05:05 PM
  #56  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Bremerton, WA
Posts: 361
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Got the car back friday. I put my headlight covers on finally but need to adjust them some.

Think i have the idle as close to 800 as i can get. Here is a log and the ecu settings. But ya was just a little off in the timing. She didn't stall at all during the log run. I think i may have found my culprit also as to why the idle was kicking in. I have my SSI-4plus in the same pocket as the ecu. I moved it out and it's sitting on the passenger floor pan right now. I'll drive her this week to see if that is what was causing the issue. If so I'll rewire it and move it to a location a little farther away.

Carl
Attached Files
File Type: ecu
10-21-2018.ecu (8.0 KB, 0 views)
File Type: csv
2018-21-10_idle.csv (1.14 MB, 0 views)
knotsonice is offline  
Reply With Quote
 
 
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
NZ_87_TURBO
Haltech Forum
4
05-03-10 04:52 PM
fabes21
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
9
03-05-08 09:53 PM
MIKE-P-28
Haltech Forum
24
12-20-07 05:05 PM
Claudio RX-7
Latin America Forum
0
04-14-07 04:51 PM
rotor
General Rotary Tech Support
3
04-25-03 03:47 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Knotsonice tuning issues


Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: