Adaptronic Knotsonice tuning issues
#1
Knotsonice tuning issues
So i've owned the car since around 2001. I know the history on it front and back. How i got to this point + long story short. early 2014 I was driving home and I lost all power and **** tons of smoke coming out the back. Got it to a shop and ya engine was done but rebuild-able lots of things needed to be replaced so I went with 99 twins at the time (good deal) got all the goodies below and other things and she got tuned to 13psi around 315hp on a mustang dyno. Lots of little things have or did go wrong and i have been fixing things sense then. But i ended up going to the efr series do to the simplicity of the system itself and am actually very happy with it. I've seen 10psi at what looks like 2500 rpm.
I know the fuel map is no-where near perfect currently slowly working on that. I was told my timing is good and prob doesn't need to be changed but i have seen knock in the cruising cells but i do not have enough knowledge to be changing that on a whim. But i honestly don't think the org tune was very good either. As some of the problems I have had for a long time with the twins and since i've gone single.
So I added my map and a log this morning after fixing the Ignition Switch and captured the random idle going to 100% for no reason after she's warm. then i just hit the throttle to get it off the 100% and the rpm's came down then she stalled out.
Here is some of the stuff done to the car i'm sure i'm missing something just ask.
Org street ported by Rotary Performance in Garland TX (Long time ago)
Rebuilt by adkins 2014
A/c Deleted
FFE fuel rail ID850 pri and id 2k sec (fuel pressure set at 44psi verified today)
WALBRO FUEL PUMP 465 LPH (rewired to be on it's own circuit with 30 amp fuse)
ffe 36-1 wheel with hall trigger
OMP delete (just pre-mix)
all emissions all blocked off or removed
AEM coils in direct fire (running NGK R7420-10 Spark Plug's [L&T])
turblown's efr 8374 IWG kit
turblown 3in down pipe to Racing beat 3in resonated midpipe to a 2.5in muffler (this was done because my hi-flow cat got destroyed by the heat. I lost boost for a while. Then i got the mid-pipe and i couldn't control boost at all. I replaced the rear "cat-back with a 2.5" muffler and the boost is pretty stable at 18psi. I haven't tried to bring it down any as of yet.)
I have a water meth kit to install waiting for the rear tank.
misc info
The map sensor in the ECU is dead (bought a 3bar map sensor), car stalls when coming to a stop, at random times the idle kicks up to 100% (been in contact with them about this multiple times and it still hasn't been fixed), I get a hiccup while cruising goes super rich 9-10 afr then back down (whole car jolts).
But i believe part of my issue is the car even when it's hot outside it sits between 172-174f while cruising. It doesn't get any hotter unless i'm in stop and go traffic. But i'll say 75% of the time it stays at 172-174f. I think with the big koyo n-flow rad is my issue. it cools way too good i think. Yes i have dual oil coolers but they are the small stock ones.
Thanks
Carl
I know the fuel map is no-where near perfect currently slowly working on that. I was told my timing is good and prob doesn't need to be changed but i have seen knock in the cruising cells but i do not have enough knowledge to be changing that on a whim. But i honestly don't think the org tune was very good either. As some of the problems I have had for a long time with the twins and since i've gone single.
So I added my map and a log this morning after fixing the Ignition Switch and captured the random idle going to 100% for no reason after she's warm. then i just hit the throttle to get it off the 100% and the rpm's came down then she stalled out.
Here is some of the stuff done to the car i'm sure i'm missing something just ask.
Org street ported by Rotary Performance in Garland TX (Long time ago)
Rebuilt by adkins 2014
A/c Deleted
FFE fuel rail ID850 pri and id 2k sec (fuel pressure set at 44psi verified today)
WALBRO FUEL PUMP 465 LPH (rewired to be on it's own circuit with 30 amp fuse)
ffe 36-1 wheel with hall trigger
OMP delete (just pre-mix)
all emissions all blocked off or removed
AEM coils in direct fire (running NGK R7420-10 Spark Plug's [L&T])
turblown's efr 8374 IWG kit
turblown 3in down pipe to Racing beat 3in resonated midpipe to a 2.5in muffler (this was done because my hi-flow cat got destroyed by the heat. I lost boost for a while. Then i got the mid-pipe and i couldn't control boost at all. I replaced the rear "cat-back with a 2.5" muffler and the boost is pretty stable at 18psi. I haven't tried to bring it down any as of yet.)
I have a water meth kit to install waiting for the rear tank.
misc info
The map sensor in the ECU is dead (bought a 3bar map sensor), car stalls when coming to a stop, at random times the idle kicks up to 100% (been in contact with them about this multiple times and it still hasn't been fixed), I get a hiccup while cruising goes super rich 9-10 afr then back down (whole car jolts).
But i believe part of my issue is the car even when it's hot outside it sits between 172-174f while cruising. It doesn't get any hotter unless i'm in stop and go traffic. But i'll say 75% of the time it stays at 172-174f. I think with the big koyo n-flow rad is my issue. it cools way too good i think. Yes i have dual oil coolers but they are the small stock ones.
Thanks
Carl
Last edited by knotsonice; 09-13-18 at 04:59 PM.
#2
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Glad you made a thread. I'll try to get to this by the weekend.
#4
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Anything else you can think of to give me in regards to fuel system configuration, etc Fuel Pressure?
There's a few things I'm finding that are VERY scary and explaining your hiccup. Look at your knock sensor offset! Ouch!
Your injectors are input entirely wrong and set as zero fuel pressure. Weird.
Last edited by RGHTBrainDesign; 09-13-18 at 06:48 PM.
#5
no not an m2000 it is an older select series. i had the fuel pressure in the 1st post. added again below.
FFE fuel rail ID850 pri and id 2k sec (fuel pressure set at 44psi verified today)
WALBRO FUEL PUMP 465 LPH (rewired to be on it's own circuit with 30 amp fuse)
FFE fuel rail ID850 pri and id 2k sec (fuel pressure set at 44psi verified today)
WALBRO FUEL PUMP 465 LPH (rewired to be on it's own circuit with 30 amp fuse)
#6
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Edit: Sorry, assumed you had a Modular ECU. I'm not sure if there is a way to adjust the throttle sensitivity in the Select ECU?
Last edited by mrselfdestruct1994; 09-13-18 at 06:53 PM.
#7
You're tuning on Eugene with an M2000, correct?
Anything else you can think of to give me in regards to fuel system configuration, etc Fuel Pressure?
There's a few things I'm finding that are VERY scary and explaining your hiccup. Look at your knock sensor offset! Ouch!
Your injectors are input entirely wrong and set as zero fuel pressure. Weird.
Anything else you can think of to give me in regards to fuel system configuration, etc Fuel Pressure?
There's a few things I'm finding that are VERY scary and explaining your hiccup. Look at your knock sensor offset! Ouch!
Your injectors are input entirely wrong and set as zero fuel pressure. Weird.
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#8
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Okay, so this will get you closer. Everything is still in Open Loop. You should refine your boost tables to more than just 2D, but those are left untouched. Otherwise I went through everything else.
Timing Map is NOT good, but it's improved dramatically over how it used to be.
Load it up and report back.
Timing Map is NOT good, but it's improved dramatically over how it used to be.
Load it up and report back.
#9
Okay, so this will get you closer. Everything is still in Open Loop. You should refine your boost tables to more than just 2D, but those are left untouched. Otherwise I went through everything else.
Timing Map is NOT good, but it's improved dramatically over how it used to be.
Load it up and report back.
Timing Map is NOT good, but it's improved dramatically over how it used to be.
Load it up and report back.
#10
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
I think you should be monitoring knock sensor right now. See if it's too sensitive at idle and we need to bring it up.
Last edited by RGHTBrainDesign; 09-13-18 at 07:37 PM.
#11
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Try this out.
Last edited by RGHTBrainDesign; 09-13-18 at 08:07 PM.
#12
You previously had 0 across that entire idle area. Meet it somewhere in the middle and smooth it out. Better yet, I'll send you a good timing map...
I think you should be monitoring knock sensor right now. See if it's too sensitive at idle and we need to bring it up.
I think you should be monitoring knock sensor right now. See if it's too sensitive at idle and we need to bring it up.
#13
Ok dude. The file you sent i could not keep her running extremely rough and the car was shaking. Not sure what or how much you changed. So I plugged away a bit copied your timing table and some other things. And she run's.
I added a copy of the ecu file and a log. (had to take my boy to from soccer practice). The log is me sitting towards the end of his practice and the drive home.
Hope it helps so you can see whats going on.
Thanks
Carl
Last edited by knotsonice; 09-13-18 at 10:44 PM.
#14
You previously had 0 across that entire idle area. Meet it somewhere in the middle and smooth it out. Better yet, I'll send you a good timing map...
I think you should be monitoring knock sensor right now. See if it's too sensitive at idle and we need to bring it up.
I think you should be monitoring knock sensor right now. See if it's too sensitive at idle and we need to bring it up.
#15
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Because your knock sensor shouldn't be that noisy... That's why I originally turned it down to the OEM S4 settings, then to +20pts over them. I'll send "CarlTune-3" with your original knock settings and hopefully that resolves your issue. It's odd that the sensor is THAT sensitive unless something else is interfering with it.
#16
Because your knock sensor shouldn't be that noisy... That's why I originally turned it down to the OEM S4 settings, then to +20pts over them. I'll send "CarlTune-3" with your original knock settings and hopefully that resolves your issue. It's odd that the sensor is THAT sensitive unless something else is interfering with it.
#17
Because your knock sensor shouldn't be that noisy... That's why I originally turned it down to the OEM S4 settings, then to +20pts over them. I'll send "CarlTune-3" with your original knock settings and hopefully that resolves your issue. It's odd that the sensor is THAT sensitive unless something else is interfering with it.
Ran like crap again. Here is a log.
#18
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Hey mate, I also had a quick look at one of your logs just to see if anything obvious stood out to me. In 2018-09-13_192300.csv at 234.578 seconds, your map signal goes from -19.55inHg to -3.62inHg with no change in TPS or RPM. It looks like that could potentially be MAP prediction kicking in when it shouldn't. Have you tried turning MAP prediction off just to see if that is causing your rich stumble during cruise?
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knotsonice (09-15-18)
#19
Hey mate, I also had a quick look at one of your logs just to see if anything obvious stood out to me. In 2018-09-13_192300.csv at 234.578 seconds, your map signal goes from -19.55inHg to -3.62inHg with no change in TPS or RPM. It looks like that could potentially be MAP prediction kicking in when it shouldn't. Have you tried turning MAP prediction off just to see if that is causing your rich stumble during cruise?
#22
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
I think it helps to isolate one problem at a time, if you turn it off and that fixes the rich stumble then we know there is some kind of issue with the enrichments. It could well just be that the map prediction table needs adjusting, but that is fairly easy. If that ends up being the problem I can show you an easy way to obtain the values for that map, or you can try mine.
#23
I think it helps to isolate one problem at a time, if you turn it off and that fixes the rich stumble then we know there is some kind of issue with the enrichments. It could well just be that the map prediction table needs adjusting, but that is fairly easy. If that ends up being the problem I can show you an easy way to obtain the values for that map, or you can try mine.
#24
Banned. I got OWNED!!!