knotsonice

iTrader: (2)

So i've owned the car since around 2001. I know the history on it front and back. How i got to this point + long story short. early 2014 I was driving home and I lost all power and **** tons of smoke coming out the back. Got it to a shop and ya engine was done but rebuild-able lots of things needed to be replaced so I went with 99 twins at the time (good deal) got all the goodies below and other things and she got tuned to 13psi around 315hp on a mustang dyno. Lots of little things have or did go wrong and i have been fixing things sense then. But i ended up going to the efr series do to the simplicity of the system itself and am actually very happy with it. I've seen 10psi at what looks like 2500 rpm.

I know the fuel map is no-where near perfect currently slowly working on that. I was told my timing is good and prob doesn't need to be changed but i have seen knock in the cruising cells but i do not have enough knowledge to be changing that on a whim. But i honestly don't think the org tune was very good either. As some of the problems I have had for a long time with the twins and since i've gone single.

So I added my map and a log this morning after fixing the Ignition Switch and captured the random idle going to 100% for no reason after she's warm. then i just hit the throttle to get it off the 100% and the rpm's came down then she stalled out.

Here is some of the stuff done to the car i'm sure i'm missing something just ask.

Org street ported by Rotary Performance in Garland TX (Long time ago)
Rebuilt by adkins 2014
A/c Deleted
FFE fuel rail ID850 pri and id 2k sec (fuel pressure set at 44psi verified today)
WALBRO FUEL PUMP 465 LPH (rewired to be on it's own circuit with 30 amp fuse)
ffe 36-1 wheel with hall trigger
OMP delete (just pre-mix)
all emissions all blocked off or removed
AEM coils in direct fire (running NGK R7420-10 Spark Plug's [L&T])
turblown's efr 8374 IWG kit
turblown 3in down pipe to Racing beat 3in resonated midpipe to a 2.5in muffler (this was done because my hi-flow cat got destroyed by the heat. I lost boost for a while. Then i got the mid-pipe and i couldn't control boost at all. I replaced the rear "cat-back with a 2.5" muffler and the boost is pretty stable at 18psi. I haven't tried to bring it down any as of yet.)

I have a water meth kit to install waiting for the rear tank.

misc info
The map sensor in the ECU is dead (bought a 3bar map sensor), car stalls when coming to a stop, at random times the idle kicks up to 100% (been in contact with them about this multiple times and it still hasn't been fixed), I get a hiccup while cruising goes super rich 9-10 afr then back down (whole car jolts).
But i believe part of my issue is the car even when it's hot outside it sits between 172-174f while cruising. It doesn't get any hotter unless i'm in stop and go traffic. But i'll say 75% of the time it stays at 172-174f. I think with the big koyo n-flow rad is my issue. it cools way too good i think. Yes i have dual oil coolers but they are the small stock ones.

Thanks
Carl

RGHTBrainDesign

Glad you made a thread. I'll try to get to this by the weekend.

knotsonice

iTrader: (2)

No problem thanks for looking! When I get the chance i'll post some more logs of her driving and see if we can find that hiccup also.

RGHTBrainDesign

You're tuning on Eugene with an M2000, correct?

Anything else you can think of to give me in regards to fuel system configuration, etc Fuel Pressure?

There's a few things I'm finding that are VERY scary and explaining your hiccup. Look at your knock sensor offset! Ouch!

Your injectors are input entirely wrong and set as zero fuel pressure. Weird.

knotsonice

iTrader: (2)

no not an m2000 it is an older select series. i had the fuel pressure in the 1st post. added again below.

FFE fuel rail ID850 pri and id 2k sec (fuel pressure set at 44psi verified today)
WALBRO FUEL PUMP 465 LPH (rewired to be on it's own circuit with 30 amp fuse)

mrselfdestruct1994

iTrader: (1)

My first guess would be you might have the throttle sensitivity set too low and are triggering async gain during cruise, but a datalog would help confirm that. I have found my car responds best with async turned off.

Edit: Sorry, assumed you had a Modular ECU. I'm not sure if there is a way to adjust the throttle sensitivity in the Select ECU?

knotsonice

iTrader: (2)

The inj should have been set in wari a long time ago.... like i said things just don't add up honestly.

RGHTBrainDesign

Okay, so this will get you closer. Everything is still in Open Loop. You should refine your boost tables to more than just 2D, but those are left untouched. Otherwise I went through everything else.

Timing Map is NOT good, but it's improved dramatically over how it used to be.

Load it up and report back.

knotsonice

iTrader: (2)

that is a real rough idle. whole car was shaking. why so much timing in the idle area?

RGHTBrainDesign

You previously had 0 across that entire idle area. Meet it somewhere in the middle and smooth it out. Better yet, I'll send you a good timing map...

I think you should be monitoring knock sensor right now. See if it's too sensitive at idle and we need to bring it up.

RGHTBrainDesign

Try this out.

knotsonice

iTrader: (2)

I'll look on my org map i have them all saved and see if there was a change or.. ya.....

knotsonice

iTrader: (2)

Ok dude. The file you sent i could not keep her running extremely rough and the car was shaking. Not sure what or how much you changed. So I plugged away a bit copied your timing table and some other things. And she run's.

I added a copy of the ecu file and a log. (had to take my boy to from soccer practice). The log is me sitting towards the end of his practice and the drive home.

Hope it helps so you can see whats going on.

Thanks
Carl

knotsonice

iTrader: (2)

Here is a snip of my org file. Not sure why the knock settings are so far off..

RGHTBrainDesign

Because your knock sensor shouldn't be that noisy... That's why I originally turned it down to the OEM S4 settings, then to +20pts over them. I'll send "CarlTune-3" with your original knock settings and hopefully that resolves your issue. It's odd that the sensor is THAT sensitive unless something else is interfering with it.

knotsonice

iTrader: (2)

Actually that's adaptronic's basemap for the FD. I just found it as i was curious..

knotsonice

iTrader: (2)

Ran like crap again. Here is a log.

mrselfdestruct1994

iTrader: (1)

Hey mate, I also had a quick look at one of your logs just to see if anything obvious stood out to me. In 2018-09-13_192300.csv at 234.578 seconds, your map signal goes from -19.55inHg to -3.62inHg with no change in TPS or RPM. It looks like that could potentially be MAP prediction kicking in when it shouldn't. Have you tried turning MAP prediction off just to see if that is causing your rich stumble during cruise?

knotsonice

iTrader: (2)

Nope thats why i'm posting here mate. to get ideas and learn.

mrselfdestruct1994

iTrader: (1)

No worries! If you want to rule that out entirely then maybe just try disabling it altogether for one drive and see if that particular issue goes away. The throttle response will be poor with MAP prediction off so just try to drive smoothly.

knotsonice

iTrader: (2)

I'll give it a shot. But i honestly think the map prediction needs to be tuned also. but WTF do i know...LOL

mrselfdestruct1994

iTrader: (1)

I think it helps to isolate one problem at a time, if you turn it off and that fixes the rich stumble then we know there is some kind of issue with the enrichments. It could well just be that the map prediction table needs adjusting, but that is fairly easy. If that ends up being the problem I can show you an easy way to obtain the values for that map, or you can try mine.

knotsonice

iTrader: (2)

I'm game to give it a try.

RGHTBrainDesign

Have you locked timing and matched the ECU to a timing light off your crank markings?

knotsonice

iTrader: (2)

Yes did that when i swaped from the FFE 60 tooth wheel to the 36. Dead on in my running file. What are you changing? Because that shouldn't change.