ZERO_YON

S5 semi pport the 880cc primary 1600 secondary e440
Starts and idles great. When my mat hits 39° and my wat hits 79° it starts to run on 1 rotor and dies. If I try to restart it doesnt. If I let the temp cool to 70° it starts and runs good until it get up to temp again and then it does the same thing. Any ideas?

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

Can you please post the tune file you are running when this is happening and a log of this entire process?

That will likely show what the issue is.

Skeese

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Watch the trim value in the gauge page and then reference your air and water temp correction maps. I am guessing the car needs more fuel in the main fuel table.

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

Yep, it stays alive until it runs out of warmup trim and as it transitions to the values from the main fuel table, that are too low, causing it to at that point lean out and die.

Seems extremely likely given the basemap has enough fuel for a stock port to idle and the semi port will need more.

Skeese

ZERO_YON

Is there instructions or a link on how to do logs so I can post a log of when it happens?

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

When the ecu is plugged into the computer while in wari you can either hithe ctrl+L or go to file and start log. To stop the log it's ctrl+k or again going to file and stop log. At least in wari it was.

Somewhere in that process it will prompt you to choose where you want the log file to be saved. When you are done, also go to file and save as, then save a copy of the tune file and post them both on here.

I would simply try adding some fuel to the idle region first. That will likely help.

Skeese

ZERO_YON

Ok thanks, I'll try that this weekend and see if it helps. If not I'll post up a log. Thanks again

ZERO_YON

So I ran into another issue this time with wari itself. I upgraded to v14 and now it doesn't see my ecu.

ZERO_YON

Thanks skeese that helped alot. No o can get it to start whether it's hot or cold. Now my next question is how would I go about tuning the starting procedure? I have to crank it and after about 3 seconds floor it and play with the throtle until it start. My ultimate goal is to get it running good enough to break it in and get it to a tuner or have it tuned via data log but I don't think the cars to that point due to lack of competent base map i.e. my lack of tuning knowledge.

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

Round Rock Texas huh? I just realized you are only 3 or so hours away from me. I'm in Houston.

As for cranking, it just takes time fiddling with it to find the right combination of settings for your specific car. When you get into a custom built motor, like a semi-peripheral, each motor can be very different when it comes to the cranking condition.

I'm on the work computer right now so I can't load wari to make sure the names are right so bear with me. The factors you are going to want to work with are the Cranking Fuel VE Table, Main VE Fuel Table and the Ignition Timing While Cranking Settings for starters. Once you find the right combination of those things to get it to fire right off you may want to alter the short and long post crank values depending on how your motor is responding right after it fires. Cranking is really a feel-it-out kinda thing. You just need to fiddle with it until you find the right combo.

As far as starting the tuning procedure in order to go through break in its really just a process. There are a handful of safety features you can set up in the ECU to make sure the motor doesn't accidentally see boost or rev too high that I'd set up. Then you'll simply set it to "open loop" mode and gently drive around while logging. Given the extreme nature of a semi-peripheral port motor and the fact you are on "the basemap" I would think you'll likely have some issues with it dying due to fuel starvation until you can feel out the VE numbers in the fuel map so I'd make sure to stay close to home during this.

You'll want to make one large long log that starts when you first start driving around, after the car has warmed up to fully warm temperature (this eliminates the warmup trims from skewing the data when its averaged). Stay below 3500 rpms and out of boost and just do a bunch of taking off from a stop, light accelerating, decelerating in gear, easing around, low speed cruising...etc.

Depending on how that physically goes you'll have some pretty generalized findings about your fuel map. You can then use the Megalogviewer software (or the adaptronic log viewer one, I guess) to turn this data into a table that will help you sort out what you need to do to move towards the tune running on target.

Which leaves me with, it is extremely important you set up your AFR targets correctly before doing any of this. If you post a copy of the tune file you are on now I can help make sure everything is best setup for success.

Cheers!

Skeese

ZERO_YON

Thanks skeese I'd appreciate that a ton. I just ordered a new battery for my laptop so I'm not confined to a wall outlet and extension cord. Should be here in a day or two. I pulled the wiring harness out of the car currently so I can add a few things to it like an idle air control valve. I never ran one on my microtec but I'm told it's necessary on the adaptronic.. I finally found a connector that fits the fd valve so I'm going to add that in. Today

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

It isn't necessary with an adaptronic, however it can be beneficial depending on your setup. I ran my old stock port single turbo setup on an adaptronic without it and have a tuning friend who ran his semi-peripheral motor without it as well.

What exactly are you having issues with that you're thinking the idle air valve will fix? Sometimes its easier to tune out the problem then adding another variable.

There is ALOT of mis-information on the internet when it comes to these cars, especially with how the ECU companies have been pushing marketing on social media. Every moron with an opinion but no clue has to speak.

You can actually unplug the ECU, bring it inside to where your laptop and wall charger are, and plug it in. The adaptronic can be powered through just the USB connection. From there you can save the tune file, and post it!


-Skeese

ZERO_YON

When I rev the car up and let off the throttle if I don't press the gas before it drops to 1500rpm it dies. What output on the ecu do you lose when you have direct fire coils?

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Chances are that is an issue in your mechanical setup of your throttle body. You lose Aux output one when you goto direct fire. It will show unavailable in the aux output page.

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

I agree thats likely, but I dont know enough about the S5 intake to say. I think it may be getting killed by the ecu, but cant say until I see the tune file and ideally a log.

What rpm is the car idling at now? Given its a semi peripheral port motor I'd think it would be 1500 or above. With an idle that high you may have to adjust some of the throttle off overrun settings to be sure the ecu isn't cutting fuel on the down rev and not starting the spray again until too late.

I may be wrong, but it makes sense to me in theory.

Skeese

ZERO_YON

I'm running the fd upper intake. Thanks turblown, what's a good output to put the iac on?

ZERO_YON

Here is my current file. this is before i decided to add the iac. had a little problem with the wiring harness melting thanks to the nylon loom I bought from frys. should be back up and running in a week or so. How do i wire up the idle valve. i know one side goes to the ecu, but do i ground the other side or 12v?