DamonB

Let me start off by saying if you ever break a rear wheel stud, it's a complete bitch. Here is what it took to replace mine:

new stud $.99 (I went ahead and replaced all 5 though, didn't want to risk it)
35mm socket for axle nut $15
replacement axle nut from Mazda $7
new wheel bearing $85
machine shop service $90

So here's how it goes. You can't remove the studs without pressing out the spindle. So you break the axle nut loose (I had to use a 3 foot pipe on my cheater bar to get it loose), remove the caliper and rotor and then hammer the axle out of the spindle. I couldn't get the axle to come loose from the spindle. Beat it with hammer. Beat it with axe. No go. So since I was going to the machine shop anyway I just pulled the whole damn axle from the tripot joint and took the whole axle/wheel hub/spindle assembly in. They heated the spindle and were finally able to press the axle out of the spindle (I should have thought of heat, but forgot). Then you press the spindle out; this destroys the wheel bearing because the inner race stays stuck to the spindle. Then you grind and chisel the race off the spindle. Then you press the old studs out and the new ones in. Then you press in the new wheel bearing. Then you press in the spindle. Then you reassemble car.

Is that friggin nuts or what? I couldn't believe it was so much work and money. Took me less than an hour to get everything off; could have done it in 30 minutes if I hadn't wasted so much time trying to beat the axle out. Once I came home it went together in about 30 minutes. But I just spent over $200 to replace a damned wheel stud.

The moral of the story is to properly torque your wheels religiously. My stud actually broke taking a nut OFF; it cracked right in the middle at the base of the lug nut. My only guess is it had been stressed from overtightening in the past. Make sure the tire guys don't overtorque your lugs!!!!

Tommy

I'm one of those tire guys you're talking about. I work at Discount Tire and we're always breaking studs. A couple $$ for a new stud and about $20 and sears or someone will replace it for you. I love working there.....nothing but air tools, torque wrenches, badass tires....ahh....its heaven.

WANKEL POWER

I've also got a broken rear wheel stud.......I guess I'll be taking my car to the shop to get it fixed....

Ikestaa

Quick questions...what did you guys use to pack the bearings with grease? Or is this even necessary?

worfvi

DamonB:
Yep, a rust and heat seized axle is a pain to remove. I had a similar experience once when I changed out a bad rear bearing. In my case, lots of PB blaster and the help of a 5 LB brass hammer did the trick. Just a tip: you may want to lubricate the axle with antiseize, to prevent it from seizing again.

Ikestaa:
The bearing is a sealed bearing, so there is no need to pack it with grease.

DamonB

I've done this to both axles but have never had to pull them again so I can't say if it cured it. It was quite obvious by the amount of corrosion in there why the axle was stuck to the spindle. Even after heating it you have to drive the axle all the way out with a hammer.

AMRX7

Anyone know if the wheel stud sizes are the same front and rear (knurl section)?



-Andy

ORX705

i can relate to the pain. i also had this happen to me on my FC and had to go through the very same process. let me just say i now always put anti-seize grease on the threads

BoostorLose

Exact same situation happened to me Damonb, only we had to use a shop press to get my axle out of the hub, it was pretty ridiculous. To top it all off I had a shop put new tires on and they stripped one of the new studs the following week...if only I could strangle someone and not get arrested.

DamonB

Dear god I would have wanted to kill somebody.

I use anti-seize on my lugnuts as well now and have had zero problems since.

DamonB

The part numbers are the same front and rear, so yes.

AMRX7

Yes, they are both 33-062. But the detail part number for the rears is B455-33-062, and the fronts J00Y-33-062. What's the difference?

-Andy

Ikestaa

double post...ignore

Ikestaa

I went with ARP wheel studs. Go with the late model F-body studs. They are 12x1.50 thread with a .509 knurl. They're also 2.5" long, allowing you to run a spacer if need be. A set of 5 is 11 bucks, and you shouldn't ever have to worry about replacing them again.

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp