Been using the search.

Long story short:
Car died on me one weekend and I found out that the tired had chewed up some wires in front of the drivers side wheel (yes, that same thing again).
Fixed the wiring but car still didn't start. Found out that the 2 MAP sensors I had were dead.
Got a new 3bar MAP and car starts fine.

On the way home from the shop with the new MAP, new plugs (old ones became foul) and wires fixed, car dies again.... Was fully warm, slow cruise (no boost) and died as soon as I passed over some holes in the road (bumpy crappy road). AFR gauge reading 9 (max rich) but car just stays dead.
Towed it home.

Now, this is the point I'm at:
- car has fuel. Checked
- Changed battery + got another car to help with jump cables. no change.
- checked if fuel was going. Fuel pressure gauge shows pressure build up. Can hear the fuel pump also when using the diagnostic thingie.
- another new set of plugs. Old ones were flooded. Changed them. still the same.
- Did compression test (yes I did). Got compression on all faces. (1 is a little lower than the other, but nothing relative to the problem).
- Checked for spark on plugs. Have spark.

Did some search on the forum, CAS sensor might be the problem. (part of the damaged wires from before I believe they were for the CAS).
Just removed both sensors and checked for resistence like the Manual indicates. Both OK and withing range.

Any ideas?
Thinking about testing the wiring but i find it hard to believe its damaged again (nothing visual to suggest that and it was fixed by a professional)


Thanks.

 

Forgot my "specs"
full non sequential ported engine.
PFC, IC, exhaust, intake, FP, injector upgrade, HKS twin power (removed it atm)... etc..

this is being very frustrating...

 

It sounds like your injectors are not firing. I would start testing the Fuel system according to the fsm.

 

Sorry just read that your plugs were fouled, so injectors may not be the problem. Are the plugs wet when you pull them? If so that has to be ignition related assuming the compression test was accurate.

 

Yeah, plugs are wet.
I tested and I have spark on the plugs. (disconnected the cables and put a plug outside and near the firewall while a friend cranked the car. Normal spark)

 

Try the deflooding procedure
Key off, push accelerator to the floor.
Crank for 15 - 30 seconds
Stop cranking
Take foot off accelerator
Crank again for 15 seconds.
Repeat as required.

 

Did the unflood procedure. no go.
Also, Doesn't justify why the car died in the 1st place.

 

Just thought if the ignition circuit had a short and then by moving the wires it started working again, could have been flooded in the process. I still think you have an ignition problem. Does it give any indication of it trying to start? Smoke, backfire, popping etc.

 

Nope. Just keeps cranking... already killed 2 batteries in the process.
Will try again tomorrow.

 

Still can't get the car to start.
Anything else that I don't know about that could be wrong?

Help please

 

how is your ignition coils looking? I've had the same issue long time ago when I knew nothing about cars. Had the driver side harness chewed up by the front wheel because my car was too low and hit a bump. Found out the wires shorted and the coil got so hot that internal parts of the coil was somewhat melted. Cranks, no start. Check that out see if you get anything. You might have spark, but not enough to light up that fouled spark plug.

Try using a lighter to burn out the excessive gasoline from the spark plug. See how the ignition coils look like. And try and perform the deflood procedure again with the EGI relay out of the car to make sure your injectors are spray any fuel into the chamber, but can also be done with the food on the gas padel during cranking)

Let us know what happens afterward.

-AzEKnightz

 

Didn't remove the UIM so I can't really see the front coil, but the other two look like what they r supposed to. Can you open a coil? O.o
The spark seemed normal. Just like the last time I did it (1.5 years ago when I blew the engine)
I'll put yet another set of new plugs just in case and do the extreme deflood procedure.

Its just that flooding doesn't really justify the car dieing during my drive home.
Anyway, been buzy with other stuff. Will mount everything back up and retry today or tomorrow.

 

update:

While doing, yet again, the de-flood procedure but with a battery jumpe-box adding some extra juice, the car almost wanted to start 2 times for a brief moment.
Then nothing.. just crank.... when to check fuel pressure and I noticed that it was dropping very slowly. IIRC, this isn't supposed to happen with the car shutdown and/or with the ignition key on. Right?

The fuel pressure is supposed to hold for a long while right? After around 1min to 2min, it had dropped from 40psi to 25psi
Maybe my problem is on the primary injector (850cc, constantly flooding the car maybe?)
Going to remove them for testing tomorrow anyway.

Opinions?

 

yes, the fuel pressure with Key on engine off should be 36-38psi. However with key on for 10 seconds (priming of fuel system) and key off, the residual pressure should slowly drop but stay above 21 psi for the time period of 5 minutes.

So after 1-2 minutes and you are at 25psi, let the 5 minute elapse, see what you're pressure at. If you are still above 21 psi, you are okay. But if you are below that, you're fuel system is leaking.

Hope this helps. The above spec is coming directly from AllDataPro for "fuel pressure hold inspection".

Let us know.

-AzEKnightz

 

Well, with key on engine off, fuel pressure drops from 40psi to 30 in 30secs. After another 30sec it's at 23/25psi. This is still with key on.
Key on/10sec/off, it drops to 20psi in about 3min. After that it just kind of sits there and drops pressure very very slowly.

Maybe I got a fuel line that was slightly damaged on the bumpy road (some big bumps) and leak on high psi... Dunno. Will remove the UIM tomorrow and take a good look at everything.
Oh, during the 1st minute after the pump is primed, I smell gas. After the 1st minute, and pressure drops, the smell is gone.


Thanks for the help so far.

 

No problem at all.

Okay, smelling gas is a very good indication that you have a leak. And with key on, the fuel pressure should NOT drop at all... It should stay between 36-38psi. So even with key on, your fuel pressure is dropping. You have a leak. From experience, those injector O-rings are known to leak and causing the car to always flood itself. Good luck and keep us posted.

-AzEKnightz

 

Crank angle sensor loose maybe?

 

Update:

Bad weekend with some fever so only today I dived in again.
Removed the UIM. Everything looked OK. No aparent fuel leaks.
Turned the ingition on (didnt had a clip on me to use the diagnostic box), FP up to 40psi, no leaks visible. Looked around everywhere and nothing.... :s

Next step, remove the injectors for testing.
What a PITA!! Some time and a lot of effort later, everything was out.
One of the primary injector "exit" looks a little bigger than the other one.. not really sure if its relevant or not. Also, one of the slots in the LIM for the primary's looked a little bit more "wet" than the others, but may also have been when I removed everything so....
Anyway, the 4 injectors are going to be tested tomorrow....

Sad part is, after all this, I'm not really convinced this could be it.


Already removed and tested both CAS. Re-installed and still the same. Scroll up and read.

 

Update:
One of the primary injectors is dead. That's why it didn't hold pressure.
Ordered a new one. Hope this is the only cause of my problems.

 

Good job, now you figured that one out. I am sure she will start up and run fine =-).

Again, if you have any other questions. Feel free to post it up here, we will be more than happy to help out a rotaryhead =]

-AzEKnightz

 

Thanks again
Hope this will be the last of several problems in a row for my car....
And still hope this is the real problem for the car not to start! Will test the injector connectors to check for any short-circuit before I install everything in. Don't want to burn another injector...


Also, if anyone else gets any problems starting their car, this thread has pretty much everything you can check and test, besides a full wiring check.. lol

PS: The guys at the Bosh Car Service that tested my injectors FREAKED OUT when they tested my Secondaries (1600cc.. lol)

 

let us know how it goes

 

some could think of this as a blessing. You cant blow the motor if it doesn't start, we'll in most instances

 

Update:

Finally got a new injector yesterday.
Spent some hours installing everything back in and checked for any leaks. All good.
With everything more or less in place, the car started at the 1st try! Sweet!!!!
Turned it off before it could get hot so I could change the spark plugs (again) 'just cause'.
New spark plugs in, everything tight, plugged and secured: Car starts again at 1st try!

Left the car running while I was storing all the tools and stuff that was around the car.
Car was smoking a little bit, but it was definitely since it was cold and very very rich (low 10's AFR)
Now I was ready to take the car out of a drive. Half way threw doing some manuvers in my garage, the car started to "blog" a little. Hitted the throttle lightly and it got worse. Tried to back up into my parking space, and It DIED AGAIN.... now it will not start again....!!!!!!

After such a stab in the face, I lost all motivation and just left home..... I'll go check everything AGAIN tomorrow...

Meanwhile, anyone knows what's the best way to test the injectors wiring? Honestly, haven't searched yet.... Just hope another injector went dead.



FUBAR.

 

Have you replaced your fuel filter?