I am planning on relocating my battery to the rear bin. I wasn't sure what batery would be the best. I was thinking of the Hawker Odyssey PC680 or the optima red top battery. Both are dry cell if im not mistaken. I will probally rout the wires behind the cruise control, through the fender and in behind the foot rest next to the pedals and along the panels to the rear bin. Now my other question is how do I secure the positve wire to the fuse box it is connected to now, and how do i secure the fuse box after I relocate the battery? Sorry for such a long post, but I figured I would be as descriptive as possilbe.

 

you need to get a new terminal type thing to attch to your battery. i used a gold car audio unit. then on the terminal inside the engine bay i used a bolt, and some washers/nuts. i got every thing i needed to move my battery from a car audio place. they will sell little connctors for the ends of the cable so that you can screw them down.

 

You can also get the same thing from Wal-Mart or anywhere else that sells batteries for the positive wire ... it's just an eye loop. I used a bolt, too ... sawed off ... nut and lock washer. It's stainless right now, until I hunting for brass.

As for securing the fuse panel ... there's not a whole lot that can be done. I have a ziptie holding it to something. You could move it entirely, which I'll do one day ... but I've seen numerous FDs with the thing just chillin' there (the wires running into it keep it fairly stable), including some of Amemiya's cars.

 

Ill have to go to a car audio store near me, I know the owner so he can proablly hook me up.

 

any opinions on batteries?

 

Both are good batteries from what I've read.
The Odyssey is around $80 while the Optima red top is about $110-$140.
I would go with the Odyssey.

 

actually the Optima red top is 110 at pep-boys. From what I've read the optima is able to handle startup better then the odyssey, not too sure if theres any truth to that though.

 

If you want a Hawker, I found an Odyssey (Hawker) PC925 at a good price through www.batteryweb.com. I noticed that plenty of places appear to sell rebadged Hawkers at significant markups, but these guys had a great price.

 

Also take in mind that if you do or plan on ever running your car at any dragstrip, you will need to do things such as a battery box that is bolted to the frame, it has to be vented....and you need a kill switch mounted visabilly on the rear bumper.

My suggestion is if you do run at the track and don't want a hole in your bumper...get a miata battery. They are small...and can almost fit anywhere. Also oddessy makes a really small battery.
Josh

 

i used the optima. if you have a selaled battery you dont need to vent it.

 

thanks for the help, where would I get a battery box that bolts to the frame? Also I am assuming I would have to cut holes in the frame under the rear bin for that? I don't think that you have to vent a dry cell battery, unless im mistaken. The wet ones are the ones that give off the vapor.

 

Josh do you have a source for this info? I've heard a couple people make references to these rules, but I'd like to see them myself. Venting it sounds like a pita but still something that can be delt with. The kill switch on the other hand is too much for a street car IMO. Maybe they will allow you to mount a temporary switch-ie run a wire out the hatch and tape it down.

I'm going to relocate it within the next 2-3 weeks and would love to see what the exact requirements are before I do it.

 

Anybody got any pics of their battery set-ups?

 

Found this on another thread:

"8:1 BATTERIES
All batteries must be securely mounted. Batteries may not be reloated into the driver of passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch aluminum, or NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented outside of body. Relocted battery(s) must be fastened to frame of frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch diameter bolts. ("J" hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.) Metal battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited."

NHRA
"8:4 MASTER CUTOFF
Mandatory when battery is relocated OR on any vehicle running 10.99 or quicker. An eectrical power cut-off switch (one only) must be installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions, including magneto ignition. The off position must be clearly indicated with the work "OFF." If the switch is "push/pull" type, "push" must be the action for shutting off the electrical system, "pull" to turn it on. Any rods of cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch diameter. Plastic or keyed switches are prohibited."

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hlight=gelcell (emphasis added).