wth my fd won't start
Trending Topics
07-20-05, 07:52 PM
#10
never overheated. 50k on the motor, oil level is good.
i don't think its a electrical problem... wish it was. you know more about the car than i do, could it really be the main fuse?
i just tried started it yet again, there's white smoke coming out the muffler long as i try cranking, not super heavy, but its pretty noticable.. for 3 seconds the motor did seem partially start, but when it did it wasn't the usual VROOOM sound it was like a weak turn turn turn..
could the engine be flooded?
i don't think its a electrical problem... wish it was. you know more about the car than i do, could it really be the main fuse?
i just tried started it yet again, there's white smoke coming out the muffler long as i try cranking, not super heavy, but its pretty noticable.. for 3 seconds the motor did seem partially start, but when it did it wasn't the usual VROOOM sound it was like a weak turn turn turn..
could the engine be flooded?
07-20-05, 08:02 PM
#12
Full Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Illinois
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Let me be the first one to throw in the obligatory "Check the vac hose on the map sensor"
Also, try to hold the throttle depressed all the way for a few seconds while starting the car. That'll cut of the fuel supply and might clear out the combustion chambers if the car is somewhat flooded.
Good luck.
Also, try to hold the throttle depressed all the way for a few seconds while starting the car. That'll cut of the fuel supply and might clear out the combustion chambers if the car is somewhat flooded.
Good luck.
07-21-05, 12:30 AM
#16
Its Fixed
thanks to all of you i have fixed the problem. i killed my battery cranking the motor, took 5 hrs to charge it back up, cranked again.
looks like it was a mini-flood. there was plenty of white smoke coming out for a few minutes but i didn't need to use wd40. the motor took care of the excess fuel.
looks like it was a mini-flood. there was plenty of white smoke coming out for a few minutes but i didn't need to use wd40. the motor took care of the excess fuel.
07-21-05, 10:44 AM
#17
Originally Posted by sevensix
battery checks out..
i tried starting it 2 times more.
car kinda wobbles very slightly then dies in 1-2 seconds, never fires up tho.
i tried starting it 2 times more.
car kinda wobbles very slightly then dies in 1-2 seconds, never fires up tho.
glad you got it fix but what made you go back to the battery and saying the battery checks out? well i guess if the cranks were getting slower and slower..
do you have a multimeter? thats a given right away if you have one to know if its the battery or not..
07-21-05, 10:53 AM
#18
yeah i originally used a multimeter to check the voltage. it was checking out right around 12.4v.
it was cranking hard and the interior lights worked at first... after jumping on the forums and back and forth to the garage, the cranks started getting weaker, the open-door beep started sounding funny then finally the interior lights wouldn't turn on at all.
so i basically killed the battery with the cranking. once it was charged it took just a few more tries to get the motor started to burn off the excess fuel. it idled weak and rough for a while and continued to shoot huge clouds of white(?) smoke out into my driveway for a while and it smelled pretty damn bad, haha. shoulda seen the grin i had on my face for the next 10 minutes as i cruised around the neighborhood
it was cranking hard and the interior lights worked at first... after jumping on the forums and back and forth to the garage, the cranks started getting weaker, the open-door beep started sounding funny then finally the interior lights wouldn't turn on at all.
so i basically killed the battery with the cranking. once it was charged it took just a few more tries to get the motor started to burn off the excess fuel. it idled weak and rough for a while and continued to shoot huge clouds of white(?) smoke out into my driveway for a while and it smelled pretty damn bad, haha. shoulda seen the grin i had on my face for the next 10 minutes as i cruised around the neighborhood
07-22-05, 03:08 PM
#20
the terminals were pretty tight.
after checking volatage i checked the battery fuild levels, which were okay. i think it just didn't start cuz of the little amount of flooding i mentioned
today new are sparks are going in
after checking volatage i checked the battery fuild levels, which were okay. i think it just didn't start cuz of the little amount of flooding i mentioned
today new are sparks are going in
Originally Posted by ulost2my7
12.4 is pretty normal for a battery, im wondering why it didnt start then..
are the terminals to the battery loose by any chance?
are the terminals to the battery loose by any chance?
07-22-05, 03:17 PM
#21
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sterling, VA
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by sevensix
the terminals were pretty tight.
after checking volatage i checked the battery fuild levels, which were okay. i think it just didn't start cuz of the little amount of flooding i mentioned
today new are sparks are going in
after checking volatage i checked the battery fuild levels, which were okay. i think it just didn't start cuz of the little amount of flooding i mentioned
today new are sparks are going in
Like others have said, you probably have a coolant seal leak. Residual cooling system pressure forces coolant past the seal into the chamber after the engine is stopped, which fouls the plugs. Then it's hard to start. When you get the leading plug on that rotor dry enough to spark, you get it running, and the coolant in the chamber produces white "smoke" (vapor) out the exhaust.
Certainly replace the plugs, but don't be surprised if it happens again. To prevent the plugs from fouling, the next time you go to turn off the car, rev the engine to about 3000RPM and hold it there for a couple seconds, and then turn the key to stop it. This warms the plugs enough to evaporate most of the coolant that makes it onto the plug after the motor stops.
Last edited by DigDug; 07-22-05 at 03:20 PM.
07-22-05, 04:10 PM
#22
great advice thanks, im now in the process of finding what info i can from old posts about coolant seal problems.
Originally Posted by DigDug
The plugs on one rotor were fouled. That's why it "wobbled" - it was only running on one rotor.
Like others have said, you probably have a coolant seal leak. Residual cooling system pressure forces coolant past the seal into the chamber after the engine is stopped, which fouls the plugs. Then it's hard to start. When you get the leading plug on that rotor dry enough to spark, you get it running, and the coolant in the chamber produces white "smoke" (vapor) out the exhaust.
Certainly replace the plugs, but don't be surprised if it happens again. To prevent the plugs from fouling, the next time you go to turn off the car, rev the engine to about 3000RPM and hold it there for a couple seconds, and then turn the key to stop it. This warms the plugs enough to evaporate most of the coolant that makes it onto the plug after the motor stops.
Like others have said, you probably have a coolant seal leak. Residual cooling system pressure forces coolant past the seal into the chamber after the engine is stopped, which fouls the plugs. Then it's hard to start. When you get the leading plug on that rotor dry enough to spark, you get it running, and the coolant in the chamber produces white "smoke" (vapor) out the exhaust.
Certainly replace the plugs, but don't be surprised if it happens again. To prevent the plugs from fouling, the next time you go to turn off the car, rev the engine to about 3000RPM and hold it there for a couple seconds, and then turn the key to stop it. This warms the plugs enough to evaporate most of the coolant that makes it onto the plug after the motor stops.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM