Okay I adjusted the idel, and i disengaged the aws...yet i am stilllllll ideling at 3000rpm....wtf....it wont even come down after a single rev.

 

Also I have grounded the car everythign but the negative battery terminal becasue i am waiting on the petit **** to come oin like my new ast with free stuff. and i closed the idel air hole completely...what could still be casuing this?

 

big vac leak, binding throttle cables, how did you disengage the aws?

 

If you are running stock ECU (or reporgrammed stock ECU), then you will need to place a 330 or 360Ohm 1/2Watt resistor into the AWS electrical connector. This fools the ECU into thinking it still exists. If you don't, then your ISC (Idle Speed Controller) will open 100%. Keep in mind that the ISC will take over the AWS's job even though the AWS has been eliminated, meaning you will still get the 3krpm warm-up cycle unless the car is started in-gear or the throttle is blipped.

 

I disconnected the circuit. Is it possible that it just got stuck open? Where can I get that resistor ACE or something? But I start it in gear and blip the throttle and it still runs at 3000rpm as posted above. Second my throttle body seems to have been tampered with. I am correct to assume that the hole on the bottom of the throttle body is where the AWS or ISC draws its air from right?right next to the adjustable air valve hole in the throttle body...Mine loosk liek it was cut a tad bit bigger then stock becasue it looks like there was a cut made into it as well.....I'll put a pic up later.

 

By "disconnected the circuit", do you mean you unplugged the AWS and left the solenoid installed?


On the TB, the finger-sized hole feeds the ISC and the little hole is the idle air bleed (controlled by screw on bottom of TB). The AWS is fed by a 3/4 inch hose that connects to the firewall side of the intake elbow.

 

Yea un plugged it. Sorry poor terminology been workin on the car everyday for hours on end for a couple of weeks now. Gettin tired. And I knwo what the idel control air bleeder screw is.... Is there is a way to get rid of the ISC? Or adjust it so it doesn't go to 3000rpm.

Xeros

 

It sounds like you just need to put a resistor in the connector that was unplugged from the AWS. I ordered my resistors online, but you can probably find a package of 5 or so at radio shack for ~$2. Between 330 and 360 Ohms and 1/2 Watt or greater. I shortened the leads on my resistor by clipping them, so they would sit flush on the connector. I then wrapped it in a couple pieces of electrical tape.

 

thanks man.... If that doesn't work do you have any other advice?

Xeros

 

Was your idle at 3k before disconnecting the AWS?

 

Which connector is aws? I didn't do the removal on my car and I'm having the same problem.

 

This is a pic of the firewall-side of the UIM (Upper Intake Manifold) near the TB (Throttle Body). I'm 80% sure that the AWS has a green connector, but it may be black.

 

well put it this way. When I had the AWS connected I tapped the pedal and it wouldn't go down. When I disconnected it it would still sit at 3000rpm becasue of the ISC. What do I do abou the ISC?

 

Just put the resistors in. what BS.....still wont stop idelin at 3k.

 

Sorry. That's how I tamed my idle.

 

Xeros, if you find out the fix to the problem please PM me. I think I have the same problem as you.

 

Is it possible that the freaking AWS is now just stuck open as well? Is that possible? I mean if EGRs get stuck open it is possible for the AWS to the same right? I will attempt TPS adjustments through oout the nxt week but righ tnow I am need to focus on college work again. If I figure out a solution I will post it. By the way when adjust the TPS you cant just open the throttle wide open from the throttle and I shoudl get diffrent voltage readings right? Or do I have to have someone step on the gas pedal?

 

Okay so I adjusted my TPS and it was waaay off, wasn't even on properly....I got the bottom wire down to .4 close and 4.4 WOT. SO what did it do?...well now I have a bobling RPM dilema....but that might be becasue of the screw that is on the throttle body I think i forgot to set the idel speed thingy with the wax rod on the throttle body back to the middle cuz I was messin aroudn with it. On a lighter side. My petit AST came today. And I did the fan mod switch. Kool stuff I have the fans on a switch to run them on high when ever I please. I ran the wire through the trany casing....unorthidox? Yeah probablt but I wasn't about to pull out the entire ABS system again to pout ina single wire. So tomorrow, I'll mess around with the idel speed thing and see if the boble goes away or not...hell I plan to just pull that and the AWS and EGR right off, when I can make some decent block off plates...Question tough. They don't have to be that thick to really close off the air right? As long as I get some shorter screws to press them all the way down I shoudl be fine right? Or will Air leak in and out of thinner plates made from aluminum sheets or something..?

 

How are you using the test leads with the TPS? I'm having trouble getting good readings on it.

 

My car's wiring harness is a piece of **** becasue of the last owner so there are cracks all over the wires them selves leading to the actual wire. You can actually seem my wires open on my TPS. I suggest you take a saftey pin and bend it out 90 degrees like it says in one forum. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/fixed-my-idle-problems-backfiring-bucking-more-170731/ that link will tell you all about it.