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wow stuck eccentric shaft bolt ...

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Old 09-28-15, 09:58 PM
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Is the motor out of the car? Bring it to me I'll get it off. Otherwise you really need an oxy acetylene torch. Propane or map won't do it for the really seized ones. I guess you could also cut the front of the eshaft off with the bolt and hub too.
Old 09-28-15, 10:11 PM
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rotary sensei

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Check your PM's.
Old 09-28-15, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by X7driver
Had same issue with OEM stock engine. After trying Oxy Acety & strong impact had to move on.

Found a 19mm 3/4" drive impact socket (thick black) at Northern Tool. Linked it with massive 3/4" drive breaker bar & probably 6-8' pipe extension. Secured flywheel with an attached beefy long square metal tube angled down to deck (eng mounted in engine stand). That ended all the trouble... came loose with a SNAP & threaded off easy rest of way. CRAZY!

Good Luck
I ordered a new 19mm 3/4 driver impact socket and a 3/4" 40" long Breaker bar ....

I'm gonna take the oil pan off, let it sit on the floor, have someone heavy (brother) stand on the engine, while I take it off with the breaker bar + cheater pipe.

and oh, I'm getting that Oxy/Acy torch tomorrow morning.

Originally Posted by blue87
Yup had same problem with mine soaked with all kinds of penetrating oil all kinds of impacts all kinds of heat for like 2 weeks of evenings... Finally had brother in law stand on engine while I used breaker bar plus 6ft pipe from floor jack snapped loose the came off rest of way with fingers... Had to replace mangled bolt but e shaft was fine
yeah, bolt is going straight to the bin(when it's out)

Originally Posted by DaleClark
Penetrating oil will do nothing for you. It's a long bolt slathered in Loctite.

Normally, I heat the bolt up with a propane torch to get the Loctite hot. Lock the flywheel in place (I have a tool that locks the ring gear) and put a breaker bar and a BIG damn pipe on it.

You can also bolt a chain to the rear housing then bolt the other end of the chain to the flywheel. Use a disposable bolt, the bolt can get bent.

Impact never works for me. You need that twisting, not hammering, force to overcome the Loctite.

Also helps to have the engine on a proper engine stand so it isn't trying to walk across your garage floor.

Funny thing is people always get excited about the flywheel nut. I'll happily take off flywheel nuts, that front pulley bolt is where boys become men.

Dale
My flywheel lock tool is not with me(I left it overseas), so I was using RacingBeat's flywheel stopper to hold the flywheel, the problem with that bar is that I need someone to push it in so it doesn't slip off.

it will probably easier to just put the engine back on the floor and start from there. (flat surface)

Originally Posted by IRPerformance
Is the motor out of the car? Bring it to me I'll get it off. Otherwise you really need an oxy acetylene torch. Propane or map won't do it for the really seized ones. I guess you could also cut the front of the eshaft off with the bolt and hub too.
Thx, yeah if all else fails I'm gonna have to bother you

but I'm gonna try the oxy acetylene torch first, burn baby burn !

Originally Posted by Mr rx-7 tt
Check your PM's.
I did, replied, thx for the idea !
Old 09-28-15, 11:01 PM
  #29  
heynoman

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I've ran into this issue a few time . I was able to use map gas but I had to literally sit there heating it up for about half an hour while the heat penetrated through . Oxy / acetylene is definitely quicker but be careful not to melt the bolt lol I did that once too luckily it was just the center of it. I also used a 1/2 drive ratchet that I swear is indestructible and smack the **** out of it with what I believe is a 3lb hammer might be 5 but breaks free just about every time .
Old 09-28-15, 11:33 PM
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I guess "getting the bolt turn red" isn't good enough and I'm not the only one, phew

this is ridiculous, how Mazda build their engines at factory really, did they just soak the bolt into that bucket of locitite ? jeeze
Old 09-29-15, 12:02 AM
  #31  
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Get a 3/4" craftsman wrench you don't care about, and a BFH. Be sure to lock the flywheel first (duh).

I used a MAPP torch and got things to glow. Then I beat on the wrench unmercifully. The bolt eventually moved after several full strength hits.

I had to do this twice. Good thing most FD engines have a long headed 19mm bolt.
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