xblazinlv

OK.....first trip around the block the only engine light I was throwing was the knock sensor, which we traced down to a bad connection since I just replaced it, and the wire I ran from the knock sensor to the pin harness wasn't spliced in good. So we fixed that with a bud connector and tested it by OHMing the wire, and everything looked good. Put the computer back together, started it up, instantly threw check engine light, tried to drive it, car would barely move at all and misfired to death.


This time around, we threw like 20 codes....

5,9,11,13,14,20 etc etc



Could it be a pin connector is lose? No way would it somehow throw that many codes when the first two trips out it was perfectly fine minus the knock sensor.

The other thing I don't get is why my knock sensor is being a pain.... we just replaced it, ran a new wire from the knock sensor right to the pin connector at the ECU and verified it has a good connection, but it still is throwing a CEL for knock. I know the motor isn't knocking when it idles, so what could cause this? I know it was on the connector that might be loose, I'll see if I can get those 30 something error codes cleared and working and i'll post back.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

If you can't fidget things into working, I would:
1) look up the sensor/component associated with each code
2) look up each of those parts on the wiring diagram
3) trace each back to the ecu, listing the connectors they pass through
4) focus on the connector(s) the all have in common.

Dave

xblazinlv

It will barely start up now, and it won't idle without shutting off. Something is up, not sure what. I'm throwing code:


5,9,11,12,13,20,30 and a couple others.....

It won't start without giving it gas, and it won't idle at all. You let off the gas, it dies.

While driving, I put the diagnostic wire in, and I only see code 5 and 30 flashing while driving. The knock sensor has a good connection, we already checked it. This is a freshly rebuilt motor that feels like it runs fine when the car is actually moving, I doubt it's knocking. I'm not really sure what the deal is.

Anyone have a similar experience or problem? I'm going to hook back up that ground wire that goes to the exhaust, and see if that helps anything, but I'm really stumped as to how it could throw that many codes and now idles and starts like ****.

xblazinlv

Also, I can't seem to clear the codes from the ECU.

I disconnected the negative side of the battery, held the brake down for 15-30 seconds, and then turned the key over once I hooked it back up and the codes were still stored.

We OHMed out the knock sensor, it is getting a connection at the sensor and the pin, and it is a brand new sensor. WTF..... I really do hate this car

xblazinlv

I really need help with this one guys.....anyone have an idea of what could be wrong?? I'm hooking that ground wire back up to the exhaust now, and I'm also adjusting the idle so it won't die, maybe that caused some of the codes when it was about to die off, but the other weird thing is that the computer won't let me reset it. I disconnected the negative side of the battery for 30 seconds and held the brake pedal down, and as soon as I hook power back up and use the diagnostic pin all the same codes are still stored? What else can I do to reset the computer?

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

First, let's assume you've already checked all the fuses. If not, go check them again.

Second, here's a listing of your codes:
5 - knock sensor
9 - coolant temp sensor
11 - intake air temp sensor
13 - map sensor
14 - barometric pressure sensor ** INSIDE THE ECU***
20 - Metering oil pump sensor


Are you sure you're seeing code 14? Because that would suggest a big problem, either a problem with the ECU itself, or a major electrical problem, possibly shorted wires, or poor connections causing bad grounds.


You'll want to check for wiring problems before trying a new ECU. It would be a shame to fry two, if that's what you've done.



If you're not seeing code 14, I would look very carefully at the common power (or ground) wire going to all those sensors.


Good luck,

-s-

xblazinlv

OK I adjusted the idle and now it will stay running and starts up without giving it gas about 1 out of 3 times..... I need to adjust it down a bit as we have it idling around 13-1400 RPMs. I'll adjust it down to around 1000 and leave it there.

Still throwing codes for all of those misc. sensors, but the car seems to drive fine from low - mid RPMs. Obviously I'm not getting it into boost and staying below 5000 RPMs since it is a fresh break in, but I'm really not sure why all of those codes are being thrown. It's almost as if a whole connector clip isn't working or is missing a ground or something along those lines. Any ideas?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Have you checked the wiring diagram?

Sounds like you have fudged up the wiring:

http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/ho...ng_Diagram.zip

xblazinlv

I checked the wiring, I didn't re-do the whole harness, just had to run several wires that were completely gone to their pin on the connector. (water temp, knock, water level)

Besides those, the rest of the harness is 100% stock and I OHMed most of it out since it was a little bit fried to begin with, and it all looked good.


Not sure why it would throw all of these codes all of a sudden, when we started it several times before today and let it run for an hour at a time and even drove it around the block, and the only code it threw was the knock sensor. Something is definitely not right, it can't be all of those sensors.

What else can I inspect/check?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Some wires share common grounds and such in the harness. So, running a new wires without ground out old ones can cause problems in some situations. You'll need to study the wiring diagram to see what wires you replaced and if they share anything in common with the sensors/solenoids for the codes you are now seeing.

xblazinlv

Yea because I'm throwing about 20 check engine codes now.....I just wrote them all down.


5, 9, 11, 12, 13, 18, 20, 30, 33, 34, 39, 40, 50 lol.......I know I don't have that many things wrong

xblazinlv

OK I did some investigating.....


If you look on the wiring diagram on page Z-32 it shows all of the sensors in which I'm throwing CEL codes. So it has to be a ground in common with that group of sensors..... any ideas where the grounding point is? We checked to make sure that clip is pushed into the computer all the way and it is, and both computer grounds are hooked up as well. Something has to be missing ground wise from the motor or body. It's strange because all of the sensors I'm throwing a code for are on the same harness clip. They must share a common ground, which is probably causing them to throw codes. Is it possible my motor isn't being grounded somehow? I thought the ground for the knock sensor and other sensors was the motor?

xblazinlv

Anyone?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Ok, you say you ran new wires from the ECU straight to the sensor, what did you do with the old wires which were part of the harness?

KaiFD3S

iTrader: (37)

wow, that's a lot of codes...

xblazinlv

The old wires are disconnected.....at both ends. The end at the sensor, and the end at the computer.

I still can't figure out any reason a whole clip is throwing a code.....all ground wires to the computer are hooked up, all factory grounds are intact, makes no sense that a whole portion of the harness is throwing a code.

MontegoRx

Instead of resetting the ECU with holding the brake, try disconnecting the negative for about 15 minutes (I know that's a LONG time when you're troubleshooting) and then retarting. For some reason, my 93 didn't take well to the disconnect, hold brake, reconnect method. Once I let the negative unooked for awhile though, it restarted fairly well, and after a day was running pretty much perfect.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Did you check to see if there were any readings on those disconnected lines (either while the car is in ACC or started)?


I'm no wiring/electrical expert. However, it looks like your wiring adjustments have cause a problem with the feedback to the ECU for other sensor/solenoids. I would verify with the diagram to see if you need to either ground or complete the circuit for the wires you are bypassing (rather than just leave them cut).

xblazinlv

I don't have a PowerFC, is there anything else I could use to see if these sensors are giving feedback or receiving a reading? What's strange is when I drive the car, it feels great. Runs with no issues, but I'm throwing like 20 engine codes. I don't get it.... although I haven't been into much boost 1-2 pounds at most due to breaking in the engine, it didn't break up under that load.

I hate wiring....

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Hope this helps...

xblazinlv

I've got that page, but thanks. still makes no sense, I'm getting ready to un-do all of my hard work and just get another ******* harness and a powerFC. I'll just use this one in limp mode to put my 600 slow miles on it, then I'll fix it. I'm ultra pissed, I can't believe a whole connector is bad. It could be the PCM too, who knows really. But everything is 100% hooked up correct, I checked it all vs. the FSM.

xblazinlv

Now I'm only throwing

5 Knock sensor
34 Solenoid valve -idle speed control (BAC)



WTF....the knock sensor has a connection, a perfect one actually. We OHMed it out and it is a brand new sensor, I don't know what's up with that.

The solenoid valve for idle speed I need to test but I'm not sure how. This is under the manifold correct?