If this pan will eliminate the slosh of oil up the fill neck (and out the vent) under hard right hand corners I'd buy one.

 

As for stiffening the engine, this is one of the weakness' of the rotary as currently designed. Remember, the LeMans winner engine had to have a huge stiffening structure bolted on the "pan" area (honeycomb material was used at great expense). Granted, this was a four rotor (much longer than ours) and was producing 700+ HP and huge torque, but it is still a "weak" area on our engines. Hence, racers "pin" the two rotor when they bump up the HP/torque. Not sure how much a tiny strip of aluminum will brace it though.

My pan is still leaking. It was removed and given the silicone only treatment. I think it leaks from the motor mount area, and I'm not sure this proposed pan can address this weak area.

 

I'm in.

 

Hard to beat the stamped steel stock oil pan. Greg Staff's oil pan brace with longer bolts works great in sealing the pan forever. the 0.30-inch thick brace does help with stiffening somewhat:

http://www.staffsauto.com/ (scroll to bottom of page).

For the racers out there, I hear that the best way to go is dry sump...

 

yeah if you look @ all the modern supercars out there, every single one of them have dry sump lubrication. Not really sure how much that conversion would cost tho... As for me and the time being, i'll deal with the 4 drips of oil per night on my painted garage floor and check the oil every week

-Zach

 

I've read/heard $4K to $5K to do a dry sump conversion on an FD3S for race use.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=226214

 

i looked into the moroso oil pan about a year ago because i noticed my oil pan had a huge *** dent in it. because of all the baffling i decided it would be wise to replace it. well everyone i called said that the oil pan is for the 13B and will not work on the REW because of shape. i went ahead and just bought a new oil pan from the factory and slapped it on. you should also not be getting any drips at night. odds are its an engine mount leaking. they do that from time to time since they are liquid filled. changing an oil pan is a snap now, i did it three times. i can change it in roughly one hour if all goes well. i learned the hard way about sealing the whole pan and dont waste your money on the stock oil pan gasket. use some hondabond from honda, or FIPG from toyota. great stuff
kris

 

Share with us the tricks and techniques you're using!

 

sounds good

 

Suprfast:

What's your procedure on changing an FD's oil-pan in one hour ?

Thanks,
:-) neil
=====
quote:
looked into the moroso oil pan about a year ago because i noticed my oil pan had a huge *** dent in it. because of all the baffling i decided it would be wise to replace it. well everyone i called said that the oil pan is for the 13B and will not work on the REW because of shape. i went ahead and just bought a new oil pan from the factory and slapped it on. you should also not be getting any drips at night. odds are its an engine mount leaking. they do that from time to time since they are liquid filled. changing an oil pan is a snap now, i did it three times. i can change it in roughly one hour if all goes well. i learned the hard way about sealing the whole pan and dont waste your money on the stock oil pan gasket. use some hondabond from honda, or FIPG from toyota. great stuff
kris

 

I toured the Mazda Reman facility twice when it was in Jacksonville FL. The manger of the Rotary engine portion of the plant told me to NOT use the gasket.. remove the installed oil pan (I was picking up a Mazda reman) and install the oil pan with Grey RTV then install the oil pan bolts and engine mounts at the same time. He told me specifically that removing and installing the Bolts for the engine mounts will cause the engine to leak oil.. (The oil pan comes pre-installed on Mazda reman’s)

I have taken his advice and have never had an oil leak on any of the engines in my FD or any other RX-7 I have installed engines in (many FC's....and yes they are different).

This was the manager of all Mazda rotary engine remanufacturing that told me this.

 

Pineapple racing already sells an aluminum oil pan

 

yea, i remember rob telling about it

 

Pineapple also does dry sump setups for FD's.

 

Moroso is the only company I know that makes the 13b pan so I'm betting it's them. The only drawback to the A-spec, if you want to call it a drawback is the fact that it peaks out a little from around the subframe. One solid whack from a speed bump or such and you might have a leaker.

Tim