Hossler

iTrader: (3)

After going for a night cruise for maybe 30 mins, the car wont start after being shut off for say 10 mins.

I always let my car warm up, and the temps never see above 200 degrees..It did this once or twice before..its almost like its flooding, but its not, my old fd used to flood all the time. It acts like it wants to start but nope just cranks

any ideas?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

*old worn plugs
*weak heatsoaked coils
*low compression

Hossler

iTrader: (3)

the car was just at speed one for tuning and a look over, compression was fine....might as well start with changing out the plugs:/

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

A FD is for either the rich who can afford maintenance/tuning, or the experienced with good mechanical skills and who have a physic bond with cars.

This car is either a devil or angle and tests you for your love.
You either have or do not have it.

Some of us have the rightstuff. 21 years+ with my second wife the R1.

Hossler

iTrader: (3)

i hear ya there. i dont mind spending the extra time or money on this car..just got it back together though lol

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

The best way to keep a long term relationship is to keep the wife off of boost which leads to heavy drinking followed by engine transplants and nothing test your love and loyalty more than that. No matter how much that little red head gets you going when she's lit up please for the love of the rotary say no to excessive boost.

If compression is solid other than plugs, coils, wires and igniter it could be a leaky injector or fuel pump issue. Possibly overheated sensor but if you have a PFC it pretty much ignores the sensors.

If you need some wires, coils, injectors, fuel pump etc.... I have all that stuff in good shape

MOBEONER

iTrader: (18)

Kakashi07

iTrader: (3)

I agree with most of the above statements. What mods do you have? The heavier the porting the more difficult it can get to hot start. If you have PFC you can do what I just did. There are a few threads on hot start issues that reference the cranking map on the PFC. I believe it is cells p09,p10 at n01,n02. I advanced the timing on cranking and added more fuel to the cranking at above 50C and 80C. It has helped a butt ton. I now no longer have to wait 30mins after driving to start it back up. I also did the fuel pump rewire to ensure I have proper fuel pressure on cranking. Hope this helps.

riwanika

iTrader: (1)

If it's not starting when it's warm but it starts fine when it's cold make sure your oil system is working properly. The internals could not be getting lubricated properly or as in my case the OMP could not be feeding oil to the apex seals allowing the rotors to fully seal themselves against the rotor housings. If they are running dry then this could be your problem. If that doesn't help the leaky injector thing is a good place to start. Although not too likely if you're cold starting ok. Did you find the solution or the problem? If so let us know!

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

My stock motor started easily always. Fresh motor making 500hp with 10k miles needs higher cranking speed to catch on and start, especially when warm. Motor has to be good, but some just don't seal as well as others when warm. I believe porting has a lot to do with this...the lowe vacuum at low rpms may require more cranking amps.

Make sue that battery is super fresh and try pulling the fuel pump fuse even if you think you aren't flooded.