Before anyone starts flaming I did search somewhat. All i found was either pinched vacuum line, or maybe ground wire, spark or something.
My car has been running on non seq twins for about a year till i blew the engine. but i did have it lightly tuned with the non seq. when i blew the engine i blew out the turbo, so i went single. I didnt change any settings on the car after I did so. Then just last month my water seal broke internally so I rebuilt the engine again. This time i had it partially bridged ported. The engine is done now and in my car but it wont rev passed 2.5 k or sometimes 3. if i keep the gas pedal constant, it revs up, dies, then comes back alive, doing it over nd over. I read on the forums that it can be caused by vacuum leak. On my pfc it shows that there is a leak because i only have -300mmh when i think full vac should be around -500. The thing is im pretty sure the vacuum line leaking wont really cause this. If so, which main vacuum line can? Any other opinions beside ground wire, or spark. i have spark, grounds grounded in the right spots. could it be the swith to bridge, and single turbo?

I have single turbo, pfc, hks ignition, bridge port. those are only the main mods i can think of that can effect this. Anyone know the settings i should have the pfc for the starting point?


Thanks,
Keith

 

Have you verified you have the CAS connectors on the right sensors?

 

Im pretty sure i did, but knowing me i dont know. Ill check on that tomorrow. Are both the sensors the same? does it matter by just which wire its attached to?

 

It could be a number of things. On the sensor/switch on the pfc commander, is anything highlighted?

Tim

 

The sensors are the same, but the position is different. The white connector goes on the top sensor, the gray goes on the lower sensor. If they are reversed, the car will idle but will not rev which is similar to what you are describing. I'm not saying this is your exact problem, but it's a good first place to check.

The next thing to check if your CAS sensors are correct, is your ignition harness. You'll need to verify you have the connections on the right coils (white/black/blue).

 

Make sure you have the map sensor hooked up as well ....


Chris

 

Based on your description, can I assume that you have the same fuel setup? I had a similar issue when going from one setup to another. The only difference really was my primary injector setup. Same size, (850s in this case) but changed from the stock high impedance to low impeadance. Turned out that my lag settings went way outta wack and ended up dumping way too much fuel. I was limited initially to about the same RPM, maybe a little higher. Once I started taking out fuel, I was able to wind it out all the way.

 

Have you checked the TPS sensor?

I had a problem with the car not rev'ing over 2k once, turned out the TPS sensor contacts were corroded. I cleaned them and hooked it back up and the car worked fine again.

 

The harness no longer has the colors but are correct. i made msd harness but i know they are in the right place. As for the CAS ones longer then the other, so i assumed that the longer one was for the farther one. The plastic seemed to have molded to the place it was before.

haha yeah i checked, i've done that before. and actually i had the vacuum line connected but the boost and water temp did not show up on the pfc. i checked the wiring and one of the wires were ripped, (brown w/ black stripe) so i soldered that back in. Everything else seems to be in place.

My primary is stock, my secondary is 1330. Im pretty sure that this setup is ok for what i have right now. inj duty before never really hit over 75 percent. But to be safe, i will probably change the secondaries to 16oo.

If that sensor is the white plug that is near the intake maniforld, right by the firewall, i never use it. Before i rebuilt the engine or actually when i went non seq with the twins originally, the car seemed to not idle correctly with that sensor on so i took it off.

Thanks for all your responses. If possible im thinking that it can be tuning? is there a basic setup i can possibly run. For instance as mahjik was saying, cas, should i change the timing for a bridgeport, or maybe when i messed with the throttle body to set the idling, it screwed up everything ?

Thank you,
Keith

 

That white clip is the ISC clip. The TPS is grey and on the throttle body. That you most certainly need. It's a wide, 4-pin clip on the FW side of the TB.

 

You might make sure the PFC is seeing the correct voltage for them:

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...8&postcount=21

 

haha you were right, it was that sensor. I guess i forgot to put it back in when i was looking for what was causing the map sensor not to work.

As for Mahjik, thanks for the info. I'm going to keep the info you gave me in mind for other things.

Thanks