Wiring harness help
09-25-08, 01:26 AM
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Wiring harness help
Gents, I have a small problem/question for you guys regarding the engine wiring harness.
Just swapped in a rebuilt engine (that ran before this) and it doesn't turn over.
-Checked fuel pressure and that's good.
- Was checking the injector harness and it didn't energize the noid light. So I pulled the EGI fuse and was receiving power there. Sidebar-the fans would kick on at the same time, after pulling the fan fuses, there would be a clicking noise somewhere at the front of the car. BTW, the key doesn't turn the car over, I have to utilize a remote starter gun. Back to the story, noid light, no go, so I check the fuse, it gets power. Check between the EGI fuse and the injectors and no joy. So I checked the solenoid connectors (which were deleted) and it's acting weird: when sending power through the EGI, the solenoid connector-on the side that shows ground, actually shows ground. Still nothing to the injector harness.
I may have confused alot of you, but basically, when sending power through the EGI fuse to the solenoid harness, it shows reversed polarity, and doesn't show anything on the actual injector harness.
Please help!
Just swapped in a rebuilt engine (that ran before this) and it doesn't turn over.
-Checked fuel pressure and that's good.
- Was checking the injector harness and it didn't energize the noid light. So I pulled the EGI fuse and was receiving power there. Sidebar-the fans would kick on at the same time, after pulling the fan fuses, there would be a clicking noise somewhere at the front of the car. BTW, the key doesn't turn the car over, I have to utilize a remote starter gun. Back to the story, noid light, no go, so I check the fuse, it gets power. Check between the EGI fuse and the injectors and no joy. So I checked the solenoid connectors (which were deleted) and it's acting weird: when sending power through the EGI, the solenoid connector-on the side that shows ground, actually shows ground. Still nothing to the injector harness.
I may have confused alot of you, but basically, when sending power through the EGI fuse to the solenoid harness, it shows reversed polarity, and doesn't show anything on the actual injector harness.
Please help!
09-25-08, 09:27 AM
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how exactly were u using the noid light? is it manual? im missing what u mean by the polarity being reversed... one side is hot key in run and start, the other is switched ground from ecu. what ecu are u running? if it is stock does the check engine light come on with key on? sure the rest of the fuses are intact? the starter issue would be a good place to start
09-25-08, 10:10 AM
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clarification
Clarification below.
how exactly were u using the noid light?
By placing the noid light in the injector harness, cranking it and looking to see if it lights up.
is it manual?
converted to manual.
im missing what u mean by the polarity being reversed... one side is hot key in run and start, the other is switched ground from ecu.
When we were checking for power to the injector harness, there was none, ie with the key on, we were using a tool that send current through the wire from EGI fuse box to the other end of the injector harness. When checking the solenoids that were deleted, and doing the same thing, instead of showing a positive, the test light would indicate that the wire was being grounded.
what ecu are u running?
Apexi Power FC, though I do have the stock auto ecu. Although my thinking is that the ecu shouldn't reverse the polarity as explained previously, it shouldn't intercept the current from the EGI to the solenoid harness (under the upper intake manifold) and then change it ie reverse it.
if it is stock does the check engine light come on with key on?
I'm sure it does, I'll have to recheck. When I ran the Apexi, key on, ignition off, it showed the sensors were reading, so I'm assuming it's communicating well with the harness. Just isn't getting current to the injector harness.
sure the rest of the fuses are intact?
I'll have to recheck. Which ones, the same area where the EGI Main fuse is located?
the starter issue would be a good place to start
Not thinking it's the starter. I'm thinking it's between the ignition lock and the starter. The starter actually cranks over the engine, it's the key that doesn't crank it over. But that's a darn good idea also.
Still doesn't take away the fact that the injector harness doesn't show continuity.
Maybe I'm mistaken. Waiting to see if someone has an auto harness I can have/purchase, sent it to the chap that does wiring harnesses to delete the items that aren't currently installed in the vehicle.
Thank you for responding, for a second, I thought that the post wasn't visible.
By placing the noid light in the injector harness, cranking it and looking to see if it lights up.
is it manual?
converted to manual.
im missing what u mean by the polarity being reversed... one side is hot key in run and start, the other is switched ground from ecu.
When we were checking for power to the injector harness, there was none, ie with the key on, we were using a tool that send current through the wire from EGI fuse box to the other end of the injector harness. When checking the solenoids that were deleted, and doing the same thing, instead of showing a positive, the test light would indicate that the wire was being grounded.
what ecu are u running?
Apexi Power FC, though I do have the stock auto ecu. Although my thinking is that the ecu shouldn't reverse the polarity as explained previously, it shouldn't intercept the current from the EGI to the solenoid harness (under the upper intake manifold) and then change it ie reverse it.
if it is stock does the check engine light come on with key on?
I'm sure it does, I'll have to recheck. When I ran the Apexi, key on, ignition off, it showed the sensors were reading, so I'm assuming it's communicating well with the harness. Just isn't getting current to the injector harness.
sure the rest of the fuses are intact?
I'll have to recheck. Which ones, the same area where the EGI Main fuse is located?
the starter issue would be a good place to start
Not thinking it's the starter. I'm thinking it's between the ignition lock and the starter. The starter actually cranks over the engine, it's the key that doesn't crank it over. But that's a darn good idea also.
Still doesn't take away the fact that the injector harness doesn't show continuity.
Maybe I'm mistaken. Waiting to see if someone has an auto harness I can have/purchase, sent it to the chap that does wiring harnesses to delete the items that aren't currently installed in the vehicle.
Thank you for responding, for a second, I thought that the post wasn't visible.
09-25-08, 10:57 AM
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OK. Thanks for the reply.
I'll try to figure out why the key doesn't work in regards to energizing the starter.
But would that cause the wiring to act 'all funky chicken'?
Could've sworn that I didn't disconnect anything that was already tied into the positive cable for the battery terminal, just removed the terminal for removal and installation of engine.
But still a good idea. Will check!
I'll try to figure out why the key doesn't work in regards to energizing the starter.
But would that cause the wiring to act 'all funky chicken'?
Could've sworn that I didn't disconnect anything that was already tied into the positive cable for the battery terminal, just removed the terminal for removal and installation of engine.
But still a good idea. Will check!
09-26-08, 04:04 AM
#6
Ok, so the car will not turn over with the key? but you have a remote starter that you are using to turn it over, is that correct? Sorry, just trying to figure all of this out.
Have you seen my fuel system troubleshooting write up? If not, PM me and I'll send you the link.
Have you put the stock ECU back in and tried to start it that way? I had a very similiar situation with one of my FD's and it turned out a forum member(who has now been banned) sold me a bad PFC and the injector driver in it was bad.
Have you looked to see if the bottom of the injectors are wet with fuel?
Just throwing a couple of things out there. I know how frustrating a car not starting can be.
Have you seen my fuel system troubleshooting write up? If not, PM me and I'll send you the link.
Have you put the stock ECU back in and tried to start it that way? I had a very similiar situation with one of my FD's and it turned out a forum member(who has now been banned) sold me a bad PFC and the injector driver in it was bad.
Have you looked to see if the bottom of the injectors are wet with fuel?
Just throwing a couple of things out there. I know how frustrating a car not starting can be.
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09-26-08, 09:50 AM
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Cham- I'm using the stock harness, just running the PFC with it.
Memphis-It was frustrating to the point of me relaxing and walking away, it's just a car after all and I'm too old to be upset by something as mundane as a car.
I owe an apology to everyone that has tries to help me. Last night, I was over there with HawaiiMako and a blue connector was hanging out by the footwell, I assumed it had something to do with the automatic transmission, so I didn't think about it until I plugged it into another blue connector that was hidden behind a panel in the footwell, gave it a try and she fired right up. I'm sorry, made a newbie mistake and I want to apologize to everyone that's been trying to help me.
Robbie.
Memphis-It was frustrating to the point of me relaxing and walking away, it's just a car after all and I'm too old to be upset by something as mundane as a car.
I owe an apology to everyone that has tries to help me. Last night, I was over there with HawaiiMako and a blue connector was hanging out by the footwell, I assumed it had something to do with the automatic transmission, so I didn't think about it until I plugged it into another blue connector that was hidden behind a panel in the footwell, gave it a try and she fired right up. I'm sorry, made a newbie mistake and I want to apologize to everyone that's been trying to help me.
Robbie.
09-26-08, 02:51 PM
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Cham- I'm using the stock harness, just running the PFC with it.
Memphis-It was frustrating to the point of me relaxing and walking away, it's just a car after all and I'm too old to be upset by something as mundane as a car.
I owe an apology to everyone that has tries to help me. Last night, I was over there with HawaiiMako and a blue connector was hanging out by the footwell, I assumed it had something to do with the automatic transmission, so I didn't think about it until I plugged it into another blue connector that was hidden behind a panel in the footwell, gave it a try and she fired right up. I'm sorry, made a newbie mistake and I want to apologize to everyone that's been trying to help me.
Robbie.
Memphis-It was frustrating to the point of me relaxing and walking away, it's just a car after all and I'm too old to be upset by something as mundane as a car.
I owe an apology to everyone that has tries to help me. Last night, I was over there with HawaiiMako and a blue connector was hanging out by the footwell, I assumed it had something to do with the automatic transmission, so I didn't think about it until I plugged it into another blue connector that was hidden behind a panel in the footwell, gave it a try and she fired right up. I'm sorry, made a newbie mistake and I want to apologize to everyone that's been trying to help me.
Robbie.
Don't mean to bump this thread, got some excellent pointers from others, so was not that bad or waste of time. The electrical system of the FD can be quite daunting, even for an electronic tech like myself! Most circuits I work with shows the voltage values on each line, most of it in the electrical manual are missing.
The previous owner did some really funky electrical things to it, which certainly contributed to these issues. Anyways, thanks again for everyone's input and assistance!
09-26-08, 03:36 PM
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Rob,
Don't mean to bump this thread, got some excellent pointers from others, so was not that bad or waste of time. The electrical system of the FD can be quite daunting, even for an electronic tech like myself! These two blue connectors are for the AT diagnosis modules in circuits X-16 and X-17, which need to be connected end to end when converting AT to Manual 5 speed. Sort of a loop back circuit, I believe?
Separately when in the AT mode, it feeds back into the ECU. When disconnected, it breaks this circuit, probably why it couldn't start or feed voltage to the injectors.
The previous owner did some really funky electrical things to it, which certainly contributed to these issues. Anyways, thanks again for everyone's input and assistance!
Don't mean to bump this thread, got some excellent pointers from others, so was not that bad or waste of time. The electrical system of the FD can be quite daunting, even for an electronic tech like myself! These two blue connectors are for the AT diagnosis modules in circuits X-16 and X-17, which need to be connected end to end when converting AT to Manual 5 speed. Sort of a loop back circuit, I believe?
Separately when in the AT mode, it feeds back into the ECU. When disconnected, it breaks this circuit, probably why it couldn't start or feed voltage to the injectors.
The previous owner did some really funky electrical things to it, which certainly contributed to these issues. Anyways, thanks again for everyone's input and assistance!
Last edited by HawaiianRedMako; 09-26-08 at 03:39 PM. Reason: hit the wrong "Quote" and not Edit option!
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