Will Power FC fix my problem?
#1
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Will Power FC fix my problem?
Recently I have done the non-seq. mod. I went by the rikki syle diagram. I did everything right, I think. I took out all the solenoids, even the wastegate one. Hook up a MBC. Eliminated the rat's nest. I put everything back together and when I tired to drive it it drove fine under 3k RPM in every gear. But anything over it stuttered and felt like it wanted to die. I figured itmight be the Fuel pressure regualtor or I might need a power FC to control the wastegate due to the lack of the solenoids. Anyone else have any thoughts or am I right on getting a power FC. My other mods are full 3 inch exhuast, N1. MBC. Intake. Please help me!
#2
Mr. Links
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Well, I think you are taking a step in the right direction in looking into a PFC. Keeping control of boost with a full open exhaust and intake can be a challenge.
However, I would urge you to get the PFC tuned when/if you get it:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=164033
However, as for the boost/dying problem, I don't see the PFC fixing that for you. Sounds like you have other gremlins going on in there.
However, I would urge you to get the PFC tuned when/if you get it:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=164033
However, as for the boost/dying problem, I don't see the PFC fixing that for you. Sounds like you have other gremlins going on in there.
#3
Perpetual Project
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Did you put the key in the ignition and turn when you were working on it? Might have activated the stock ecu's 'limp home' mode when you were working on it. Happened to me and scared the heck out of me.
Disconnect the battery and step on the brake (to drain any residual juice) and wait a little whiles. Reconnect battery, set your time on the radio (btw, do NOT disconnect the battery while the radio is on, activates radio's anti-theft), and go for a drive. Worth a try anyways, and is 'free'.
Disconnect the battery and step on the brake (to drain any residual juice) and wait a little whiles. Reconnect battery, set your time on the radio (btw, do NOT disconnect the battery while the radio is on, activates radio's anti-theft), and go for a drive. Worth a try anyways, and is 'free'.
#6
built my own engine
umm, am i the only one who thinks that if you remove the rats nest on the stock ecu, you'll be stuck in limp mode indefinately?
the only way you can remove that stuff is if you have the powerFC or an aftermarket ECU
the only way you can remove that stuff is if you have the powerFC or an aftermarket ECU
#7
I'm a CF and poop smith
you took out all the solenoids??? WTF dude, your not suppose to have taken out any solonoids if you did it the rikki syle diagram! Why are people pulling solonoids out?
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#8
Perpetual Project
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Originally posted by 93BlackFD
umm, am i the only one who thinks that if you remove the rats nest on the stock ecu, you'll be stuck in limp mode indefinately?
the only way you can remove that stuff is if you have the powerFC or an aftermarket ECU
umm, am i the only one who thinks that if you remove the rats nest on the stock ecu, you'll be stuck in limp mode indefinately?
the only way you can remove that stuff is if you have the powerFC or an aftermarket ECU
#9
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dude,
did you connect the vacuum line for the Fuel Pressure Regulator?
You need to at least run a vacuum line from LIM to FPR.
Otherwise the FPR never deliver enough fuel.
Maybe the stuttering is because the FPR is not getting the vaccumm its supposed to be getting to detect load.
Reza
Reza
did you connect the vacuum line for the Fuel Pressure Regulator?
You need to at least run a vacuum line from LIM to FPR.
Otherwise the FPR never deliver enough fuel.
Maybe the stuttering is because the FPR is not getting the vaccumm its supposed to be getting to detect load.
Reza
Reza
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Originally posted by reza
You need to at least run a vacuum line from LIM to FPR.
You need to at least run a vacuum line from LIM to FPR.
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even if you put fuel press gauge, it would not help, since the fuel pressure regulator is the one controlling how much fuel goes to injectors.
at least that what I think.
look at the diagram here at wade website...
http://www.newwave.net/~flanham/wlanham/
at least that what I think.
look at the diagram here at wade website...
http://www.newwave.net/~flanham/wlanham/
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The whole point of the fuel pressure guage is to see if my fuel pressure regualtor is even working. If I need no pressure on boost then I know a line came off somewhere. I just dont want to tear my car apart again to see that the fuel pressure regualtor is working fine. I know the guage isnt going to fix anythng, it's just going to show me if I need to fix the regualtor.
#13
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If your FPR isnt working is it worth it to tear the car apart and see what's wrong with it or just buy and aftermarket one. Considering that the stock ones tend to bite the dust very easily? If so which is the one to go with?
#14
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by Domestic513
If your FPR isnt working is it worth it to tear the car apart and see what's wrong with it or just buy and aftermarket one. Considering that the stock ones tend to bite the dust very easily? If so which is the one to go with?
If your FPR isnt working is it worth it to tear the car apart and see what's wrong with it or just buy and aftermarket one. Considering that the stock ones tend to bite the dust very easily? If so which is the one to go with?
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I figured mine isnt working because anything over 40% throttle and the car doesn't want to go anywhere. Figure a line came off or it just flat our isnt working, I will know for sure tomorrow hopefully when I get the FPR guage installed. power FC and fix stock FPR or a new one and I hope to god my car will run like it did the day I got it.
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did you check the vacuum line from LIM to FPR?
If the vacuum line is not there, that does not mean the FPR is not working.
It is not working because the vacuum/pressure did not reach it to tell load on the engine.
Reza
If the vacuum line is not there, that does not mean the FPR is not working.
It is not working because the vacuum/pressure did not reach it to tell load on the engine.
Reza
#18
Might be a problem with secondary injectors or the wiring to them. I had a plugged secondary and the car would fall on its face whenever I tried to go into boost or at 4000 RPM or so.
-Max
-Max
#19
Merovingeon
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dude!! mine is doing almost the exact same thing!! except mine runs like *** in the a.m, but runs smooth after about 10mins on running. engine will rev in neutral fine, unless you try and give it anymore than saym 40 or 50% throttle, then it sounds like its either running on one spark plug, or only the trailing are firing, and it accells slowly. same for driving, except its as soon as i hit 0 on the boost guage. I can drive it to 8K rpm no problem, as long as im not in boost. as soon as i get to 0, it does the same thing. it will accel, but very slowly, and will not build boost. it backfires and sputters, and i smell gas in the car real bad. but, sometimes, i can play with the gas, and as long as the rpms are over 3K or so, I can keep the guage right nuder 0, and bounce it off it a few times, sputtering both times, then i can give it alot of gas. then it'll sputter for a second then i get boost! i can floor it, then shift gears and floor the gas again, i get a moment of hesitation, then full boost again. it will not boost under 3K, all i get is sputtering. when it does boost, it smokes tires and pulls hard. Also, i tried an experiment. i floored the gas, wanting to see what happens, if it recovers, etc etc. it sputtered and backfired, then the rpms kept dropping till it almost died. ive checked the ecu, no codes stored, and i have reset the ecu many times. I thought it was the turbines originally, and i changed them..same problem..any ideas? new spark plug wires and fuel filter. im lost on this one
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