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Who sells a FLYWHEEL NUT SOCKET ?

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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 10:44 AM
  #26  
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Well, at least it's helpful info
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 05:40 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by bajaman
Sears is where I bought mine.
What was cool was I had the adapter on the socket, and they scanned the tag on the adapter, so I got the socket for like...$9 or so. Try it, it might work for you too!
Sorry for bringing up this thread from the dead...but this actually worked for me.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 06:29 PM
  #28  
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I bought a 54mm socket and bar from NAPA.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 06:36 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by latinFD
Sorry for bringing up this thread from the dead...but this actually worked for me.
cheap bastards, karma is a bitch. the sockets are already dirt cheap from sears plus lifetime warrantied, no need to steal ****.. mine has lasted about 10 years and taken apart about 250 blocks and still looks like it can do another 10 times that.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 07:02 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Karack
cheap bastards, karma is a bitch. the sockets are already dirt cheap from sears plus lifetime warrantied, no need to steal ****.. mine has lasted about 10 years and taken apart about 250 blocks and still looks like it can do another 10 times that.
But it was fun to read No, jk. But they should pay better attention on how they scan stuff. Happens often that they scan stuff twice. I agree with Karack, dont steal that stuff.

As for mine, I got a socket from Hazet with 1" connector. Even with impact gun it didn´t move the FW nut.
Took it down with a bar. The socket got damaged though. Hazet seems not to be the stuff it was once. (They arent bad, but i feel that the old stuff was more solid, they also had lifetime waranty)
My dad worked at an auto parts store back when he was young. Back there Hazet was the best stuff u could buy with money.
I still have some ratchets from hazet from about that time. They are great, very precise, solid, they do not rattle around like modern stuff does and they do not rust.

Steven
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 07:29 PM
  #31  
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mine was only on finger tight



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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 10:20 PM
  #32  
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sears 2 1/8" mine was $23 about 10 years ago, probably 50 bucks now
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 08:34 PM
  #33  
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I've had a Craftsman 2 1/8" socket with a 3/4 to 1/2" adapter that I've been using for about 10-15 years. It's removed MANY flywheel nuts, most of the time being used with an impact gun. Still is working perfectly.

Speaking of, we did a buddy's clutch and new flywheel today and he brought over a 3/4" drive Harbor Freight impact gun. That sucker had to weigh 20-30 pounds or something, and you just put the socket on the gun, put it on the nut, pulled the trigger, then something happened that was like the world ending, and the nut is off. One scary damn tool.

If you're doing clutch/transmission/suspension work and don't have an impact gun you're a damn fool. Makes like EXPONENTIALLY easier.

Dale
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 05:59 AM
  #34  
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^Same here. I remember being a little nervous of only being able to find the socket in a 12 pt., but it's never slipped.

And I've got one of those HF "Earthquakes" IIRC ~ 450 ft/lbs. I've been using. It was defeated once though...on a front hub nut. But never on a FW nut. Literally a great bang for the buck.
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 01:07 PM
  #35  
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the flywheel nut is nothing compared to how tightly the front hub nut can get cinched down on the e-shaft. i usually have to get out the oxy acetalene torch for them, broken more than a few 24" breaker bars without it.
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 03:31 PM
  #36  
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Sears FTW, Ace didnt have it, Menards and Home Depot were hopeless
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 07:33 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Karack
the flywheel nut is nothing compared to how tightly the front hub nut can get cinched down on the e-shaft. i usually have to get out the oxy acetalene torch for them, broken more than a few 24" breaker bars without it.
best way to get that loose is to use a breaker bar and the starter...works every time.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 02:01 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by patman
best way to get that loose is to use a breaker bar and the starter...works every time.
it works but kind of risky, at least until the first time you rip a power steering hose, A/C hose or put a hole in the radiator. also most of the engines i get are already removed from the car.
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